Western Road Trip: 8 Surprising Stops From Wyoming To Washington

We like to vary our routes, even if our road trips end up taking longer than the expected time, mostly because we like to explore and enjoy the sights to see along the way.

Last month, I wrote about 10 scenic stops we enjoyed in Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado during the Midwestern leg of a road trip from my sister-in-law’s home to see my husband’s daughter. Here, I detail our itinerary as we continued westward to a visit with his son in Boise, Idaho, and ending at my daughter’s home in Seattle.

Aside from the visits, we made it a mission to discover new stops along the way. So, no, we did not pass through Jackson Hole, Grand Tetons, or Yellowstone. Instead, here are eight surprising stops we made, enjoyed, and recommend.

The writer's husband at the entrance to Fossil Butte National Monument. — Carol Colborn

1. Fossil Butte National Monument, Wyoming

This little-known park is located 15 miles west of Kemmerer, Wyoming, just six and a half hours from Denver. In fact, not even 20,000 people visit it annually. But it is actually the world’s best collection of fossils from the Eocene Epoch (56 to 34 million years ago), the warm period that produced the very first animals. Fossil Lake, the smallest of three great lakes at that time, had so many fossils that when they were discovered, miners dug them up to sell to collectors.

Commercial fossil collecting is now prohibited within Fossil Butte National Monument. But the visitor center alone features over 80 samples, each one incredibly intact, not pieces that need to be assembled. There are whole fish, crocodiles, turtles, palm fronds, and more from the epoch. In fact, there are trails that will lead you to fossils still intact on the ground, plus some that are still in the process of being excavated. There may not be sweeping vistas, but that is not what this park is all about.

The JCPenny Mother Store in Wyoming. — Carol Colborn

2. JCPenney Mother Store, Wyoming

We were driving from Fossil Butte National Monument to our campground when we chanced upon the JCPenney Mother Store and Museum. On a corner of the main street of the small town of Kemmerer, Wyoming, which has a population of under 3,000, it was the first outlet of the department store giant — which today has 1,100 stores in 50 states — built there in 1902. We wondered why it began there, but then again the first Walmart is also now a museum in the small town of Rogers, Arkansas. We later learned that James Cash Penney’s tiny home is also a museum just down the road. Sadly, we missed the chance to see it as we had an agenda to stick to.

People tubing in Lava Hot Springs, Idaho. — Carol Colborn

3. Lava Hot Springs, Idaho

It is only two hours from Kemmerer to Lava Springs, Idaho, on I-30. A tiny town with a population of less than 500, it is part of the Pocatello Metropolitan Statistical Area of Idaho. Because of its numerous hot springs that are quite good for bathing, Lava Springs is a popular weekend resort location in the state. There is also a mildly turbulent river running through part of the town that is perfect for tubing. When we visited, there were lots of large yellow tubes so radiantly bright that were a welcome sight for this lover of the color yellow. This was such a relaxing recreational stop for us.

The skyline of Boise, Idaho. — Charles Knowles / Shutterstock

4. Boise, Idaho

It took us four hours from Lava Springs on I-86 to reach Boise. It is the largest city, and the capital, in the state with a population of over 200,000. My husband’s son is married to a member of Boise’s Basque community. Numbering about 15,000, it is the second largest such community in the U.S. after Bakersfield, California. It is also the fifth largest in the world behind Mexico, Argentina, Chile, and the original Basque Country in Spain and France. In fact, the current city mayor is of Basque descent. Downtown Boise features a vibrant section known as the Basque Block, and that’s where we got the chance to stir the paella cooking in huge pans about five feet in diameter.

We also spent a great deal of time around the huge farmers market hosted by the Idaho Farmers Market Association. It opens every Saturday, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. from April to October. From there, we moved to the historic Boise Depot, opened in 1925. Listed in the National Register of Historic Places, it is a beautiful Spanish-style building set atop a small hill that provides a great view of the city. Cascading down the front side is the lovely Platt Gardens.

The writer at the Painted Hills in Oregon. — Carol Colborn

5. John Day Fossil Beds National Monument

We usually go through the Yakima Valley to get to Seattle from Boise. But during this trip, we continued west through Oregon to pass by a national monument we were curious to see. It took us four hours from Boise on I-26. The John Day River basin is now home to fossilized plants and mammals that lived there between the late Eocene, about 45 million years ago, and the late Miocene, about 5 million years ago, so later than those found around Fossil Butte.

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is composed of three geographically separate units: Sheep Rock, Painted Hills, and Clarno. The Sheep Rock Unit is the first you will encounter when coming from the east. It is near the town of Kimberly and is composed of the James Cant Ranch Historic District, the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center, Cathedral Rock, and both the park headquarters and visitor center.

Because it was getting late as we drove in, we hurried on to the Painted Hills Unit. Halfway between the other two units, it is about nine miles northwest of the town of Mitchell. I was complaining that the hills were not quite as colorful as I expected when, suddenly, one by one the desert beauties appeared. They were indeed art works of Nature. They looked so fragile and I was afraid they might soon disappear. We enjoyed them so much because we could get up close to them. Besides, there was hardly a soul around. Wondering why this unit was not more famous, we were glad we made the detour to see this park.

Unfortunately, we ran out of time to visit Clarno.

The graves of Bruce Lee in Washington. — Carol Colborn

6. Bruce And Brandon Lee Gravesite, Washington

In about another six hours on I-90 after a night in Mitchell, we finally reached Seattle. But we did not proceed to my daughter’s house right away. I had lived in Seattle for a year before we started RVing, and I already knew then that Bruce Lee was buried there. I had also heard a lot about the Gum Wall and the Fremont Troll (more on both below), but I never found the time to visit any of the three. So, we made it a point to rectify the error. After all, we have made it our job to visit all these interesting places and write about them.

Situated in the Capitol Hill neighborhood of Seattle, Bruce Lee’s gravesite has become a national and global pilgrimage site. Halfway up a hill in Lake View Cemetery with unobstructed views of Lake Washington, his space is distinctly marked by evergreen shrubs. It is the final resting place of the legendary Chinese American martial artist and film star. His son, Brandon, lies beside his father here. We spent some minutes of silence there.

The Gum Wall in Seattle, Washington. — Carol Colborn

7. The Gum Wall, Washington

I had been to Pike Place Market in Seattle countless times. What I never realized is that, right under it, in Post Alley, you can find The Gum Wall. So, don’t forget to go down to it when you visit the market. The wall is made of brick but is covered in, yes, used chewing gum. In fact, parts of the wall are covered several inches thick, 15 feet high, for about 50 feet. The tradition began around 1993 when patrons of the Market Theater Box Office nearby stuck gum to the wall. Theater workers diligently scraped the gum away twice but eventually gave up around 1999 when they kept coming back. Too bad we are not gum-chewers; we were unable to contribute to the monument-building.

The writer next to the Fremont Troll in Seattle. — Carol Colborn

8. The Fremont Troll

There is a colossal statue called the Fremont Troll under the north end of the George Washington Memorial Bridge in Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood. We actually got a bit lost before we found it. The troll is clutching an actual Volkswagen Beetle as if it has just swiped it from the roadway above. Eighteen feet high and 13,000 pounds in weight, it is made of steel rebar, wire, and concrete. In fact, his right eye is a hubcap. It is hard to find a place to park though. And to wait our turn to get pictures took a bit of patience because there were so many people.

Here’s how the troll came to be. The area under the bridge was becoming a dumping ground and a haven for drug dealers. In 1990, the Fremont Arts Council launched an art competition to rehabilitate it. Four local sculptors won. Steve Badanes, Will Martin, Donna Walter, and Ross Whitehead won the opportunity to have their art featured under the bridge. They borrowed the idea from the Norwegian fairy tale Three Billy Goats Gruff.

From fossil beds to the Fremont Troll, our road trips are truly made more precious by surprising stops like these. In fact, we continue to change our routes so we may discover more of them.

11 Ways To Keep That Vacation Feeling

I am suffering badly from the no-travel blues at the moment and am sure I am not alone. That said, I seem to get the blues whenever the last suitcase is unpacked after a trip and real life has me back. Nothing like a Monday morning, early start, dreary weather, and colorless clothes, plus a to-do list as long as the Great Wall of China to get you down.

But there are things you can do to hang onto that vacay feeling, keep your spirits lifted, and have that spring in your step even when back home. I have by now perfected my tricks of floating on the travel cloud for a little longer and can even summon the away-from-home vibe at will. So, instead of succumbing to the dreaded dreary workday or bored back-home mood, here are some tips on how to prolong that vacation feeling and keep walking on sunshine for a little longer. Just try it; each one really works.

1. Redecorate, Digitally

First of all, get your favorite holiday snapshot, be it of your destination or of you and your partner or family smiling contentedly into the camera, and use it as wallpaper for your computer screen. Now every time you switch on that horrid machine, you can’t help but smile. Load another one onto your phone, and before you can even get annoyed by yet another alert, you’re reminded of that beautiful spot you have just enjoyed, or maybe even one you are planning to visit in the future.

This practice does not need to stop at your screens. Why not have a world map pinboard with pins in all the places you have visited in one color, and in another color, those which you are planning to get to? I have mine in the kitchen, so when I am chopping things, I can see it. But you can put it anywhere, even your workplace, if you can, for daily inspiration and fond memories.

2. Small But Perfect

Then find a pebble, a shell, or a small knick-knack that you have brought back from your travels and keep it in your purse. When you dive in looking for your phone, wallet, or keys, you will come across it and remember when and where you got it. I always carry a smooth pebble from my last beach walk in my coat pocket. I often just stroke that tactile pebble when I go out for a walk and am instantly transported back to a walk by the ocean, even if I am treading concrete pavements. I also have a keyring from abroad in my purse that brings back happy travel memories every day.

3. Music To Your Ears

Compile — or buy — a CD of the (summer) tunes you listened to whilst away. They most likely will not be songs you would normally listen to. Most summer sizzlers are repetitive but catchy one-hit-wonders, but they will transport you back onto that beach in no time and send a few happy endorphins rushing around your body. On a too-long-ago visit to Cuba, I bought a CD from a band I listened to while sitting outside in the sunshine in Havana. Every time I put that music on, my feet start tapping and I cannot help but smile — and I start hankering for a daiquiri.

4. Get Active

During vacations, we tend to be much more adventurous than at home and often try out new activities, and it is often those which we remember fondly. So, get out of the house and either sign up for a continuation course in surfing, tennis, rock-climbing, or whatever you learned when you were away. Or try something brand new. It will get you out of your normal rut. And you’ll be amazed what you can find in your town. As long as you have a lake or a river, you can stand up paddleboard.

Still staying in? You could learn the language spoken in your favorite international destination from the comfort of home.

5. Eat Well

When abroad, most of us forget all about junk food and enjoy healthy freshly prepared meals and heaps of salads. Once back home, we don’t have the time and will just stop off for fast food on the way home from work. Get some recipes and ingredients that are typical for your favorite destination and, on days off, at least, recreate some of that al fresco feeling. Sit outside, enjoy a cold drink, put your music on, and get back on your vacation for the weekend.

Personally, when I really enjoyed a local cuisine or dish, I either buy a small cookbook — if I can find one in English — or Google the recipe while I am still there, just in case I need to buy some local ingredients that are allowed in my suitcase.

Looking for a place to start? Check out these nine travel-inspired cookbooks we actually use.

6. Slather It On

Sunscreen lotions come with a sell-by date and should only be used as protection whilst fresh. But whether your sunscreen is fresh or not, why not use your leftovers as body or hand lotion and let the smell bring back fond memories of the pool and beach? For the next trip, be prepared and buy a special scented soap. Bring it out whenever you are feeling low once back home. Like the sun lotion, the scent will bring memories flooding back. Nothing quite like coconut or frangipani to transport you to foreign shores.

Need a good sunscreen? We’ve got you covered with our best sunscreens of 2020 review.

7. Get Outside

Just 20 minutes of being out in the sun will raise your vitamin D levels and help combat feelings of depression so common during the after-holiday blues. Seek out a park and go for a walk, or — if you are lucky enough to live near a body of water — stroll along a beach in the summer dress and floppy hat you bought abroad. Take a picnic. They say you need Vitamin Sea, but D does the trick as well.

8. Pretend To Be A Tourist In Your Hometown

Ray Bradbury, the author of the sci-fi classic The Martian Chronicles, was quoted as saying: “Half of the fun of travel is the aesthetic of lostness.” So, get lost. In the nicest possible way, of course. Plan a day out in your hometown: Look up what visitors would search out, go to a museum, take a route you never have taken before, visit a different area from the ones you know well. Look up a new cafe or restaurant and pop into a souvenir shop.

Do you even know what people bring back from your town? I have done this with a friend before an even put on a silly foreign accent, just for the fun of it. Spend a whole day as if you have never visited your location, and you will be amazed what you will learn and discover. Plus, you’ll come home exhausted and brimming with impressions. Just like you do on your travels.

9. Plan Ahead

There is nothing better than planning your next trip to get you out of those blues. Think about changing your vacation pattern. Instead of leaving for one long trip, plan to have maybe three shorter breaks, this way you will always have something to look forward to in the not-too-distant future. Include weekends away or even just overnight stays in your hometown. Anticipation of and looking forward to an upcoming trip is part of the fun and lifts your mood enormously.

10. Change The Routine

Switch off the TV and go out. Take a different route to work. Rearrange your furniture. Anything to break your normal day-to-day routine. Vacations are all about trying new things, getting away from it all, and living differently for a period of time. A small change in your daily routine will get you out of your current mindset and help banish the blues. Maybe incorporate something you liked on your last trip, such as adding a pop of a favorite new color to your house, wearing a more colorful outfit to work, or not just walking past that restaurant that reminds you of traveling. Pop in and book a table.

11. Analyze The Blues

If nothing helps your feeling unhappy, then maybe it is not the end of the vacation or the lack of travel opportunities that is the problem but your current situation, job, or routine. Write down a list of what it is that makes you so unhappy and commit to changing the things you can one by one. Rather than sinking into feeling low and depressed, take it as an opportunity to make those changes to your life that will make you happier, wherever you are. And then, look forward again.

Illinois Road Trip: Chicago To Galena

I’ve long been fascinated with population growth. And there’s probably no greater study in population growth than these two cities on the east and west ends of northern Illinois — Chicago and Galena. In 1840, Galena was the larger city, a bustling town near the Mississippi River with more than 10,000 residents. Today? The city of Chicago has 2.9 million residents, and Galena, at the last census, claimed 3,429 residents.

That’s just one thing that makes this such an interesting road trip. Had things gone differently 150 years ago — had a port on the Mississippi River been deemed more important than a port on Lake Michigan — then this road trip might have been from the bustling metropolis of Galena in northwestern Illinois to the tiny town of Chicago on Lake Michigan. But that’s not what history chose, and so Chicago’s downtown was replaced by skyscrapers while Galena’s downtown looks much as it always has.

This road trip has a history as well, since Chicago residents have long chosen Galena as a weekend getaway. As Chicago grew well beyond Galena’s size and Galena’s main industry (lead mining) began to fade, Galena became a vacation destination for people in Chicago looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.

Whether you live in Chicago and are looking for a weekend road trip or are just visiting Illinois, the long-traveled journey from Chicago to Galena has much to offer.

Chicago

We’ll start in Chicago, the third-most-populous city in the country, where you’ll have your pick of things to do, places to go, and delicacies to enjoy.

For starters, here’s how to spend a great Saturday and Sunday in the Windy City. Looking for a place to get that iconic Chicago photo? This list has you covered. And if you’re in the mood for something a bit off the beaten path, consider one of these activities you didn’t know you could do in Chicago.

For a true taste of Chicago, you’ll need to try a slice (or two) of the city’s world-famous deep-dish pizza. Not up for pizza? Chicago also offers great hot dogs, ethnic eats, and plenty of outstanding restaurants.

Honestly, you could spend a week in Chicago and not see everything. But it’s time to hit the road. From downtown Chicago, take Interstate 90 toward Rockford to begin your journey.

Elgin

Along the western edge of the Chicago suburbs you’ll find the Fox River. This river, which runs from Wisconsin to central Illinois, is the main downtown attraction for many western suburbs, like McHenry to the north and Saint Charles and Geneva to the south. Near the center sits the town of Elgin.

The downtown area is the big attraction in Elgin. Exit Interstate 90 at State Street (Illinois Route 31) and take it south to downtown Elgin. Cross the river at East Chicago Street and explore the downtown area and the parks by the river. There are several great lunch spots here and much to explore. Visit the cultural center and then walk out to Walton Island Park, which sits on islands in the middle of the Fox River.

The entire Fox River Valley is a great spot, so if you have time, you can explore the cities up and down the river. Some of these communities are known for their architecture, so look for local house tours that will allow you to see the insides of some of the historic homes in the area.

Belvidere

The next stop along Interstate 90 is the town of Belvidere, just outside of Rockford. If my wife and I were planning on traveling from Chicago to Galena and taking our time (taking two days to get there), we’d probably do it like this: Leave Chicago in the morning, have lunch in Elgin, have dinner in Belvidere, and then spend the night in Rockford. It doesn’t take that long to drive to these locations — the drive time from downtown Chicago to Rockford is only 1.5 to 2 hours — but you’ll need lots of time to explore.

And Belvidere is a great stop along the way. If you’re a fan of murals on the sides of brick buildings (like you’d see 100 years ago), then Belvidere is your place — it’s known as the City of Murals. The local arts council maintains dozens of murals in the community, and a drive through downtown Belvidere will reveal many of them. Just make sure to drive in both directions!

Rockford

Rockford is one of the largest cities in Illinois. Chicago and its suburbs make up nearly 70 percent of the population of the entire state, but of the outlying areas, Rockford is the largest, with 330,000 people living in the city and the surrounding suburbs. Because of that, you’ll find more to do here than in any other spot between Chicago and Galena. If you plan on making this a two-day road trip (even though you’re only 90 minutes from Chicago), Rockford is a good stopping point.

There are two downtown areas in Rockford on either side of the Rock River. Both sides have plenty of options for dining and entertainment. The city is home to minor league hockey (the IceHogs) and baseball, and there are several breweries.

On our last visit, we spent an evening at Prairie Street Brewing Company right on the river. We sampled the beers and enjoyed a nice meal right next to the (surprisingly wide) Rock River. Perhaps Illinois should be known for its rivers, because we’ve encountered them on every stop on this road trip.

Freeport

If you’ve heard of Freeport before, it’s probably because of the town’s high-school mascot — the Pretzels! That’s the main reason you need to stop here on your road trip — Freeport is Pretzel City, USA.

Freeport is a medium-size town (home to around 25,000 people) and is very similar to some of the other towns on this list. There’s a river near the downtown area with parks and trails surrounding it. You can visit the Lincoln-Douglas Debate Square where Abraham Lincoln and Stephen Douglas once debated. And, of course, you’ll need to stop by the Pretzel City Shop (or one of the bakeries) downtown so that you can say you had a pretzel while in Freeport.

Maybe you’ll even want to stop by the local high school and check out the stadium. Its name? The Pretzel Bowl.

Apple River Canyon State Park

Perhaps you’re a bit tired of driving and feel like a stroll through the woods, or even a picnic. A good spot for that would be Apple River Canyon State Park. As you head toward Galena from Freeport, turn on Illinois Route 78 toward Warren. After about 6 miles, you’ll turn left on East Canyon Road, which will take you directly into the park.

It’s a very small park, situated in a small canyon carved out by the Apple River. But it was a nice place for my wife and I to stretch our legs, have a picnic lunch, and then take a post-lunch stroll on one of the loop trails (all are less than a mile long).

As you leave Apple River Canyon State Park, you’ll take Canyon Park Road back to U.S. Route 20. The rest of the way to Galena is the most scenic part of the drive. This section of road looks nothing like Illinois! The rolling hills will remind you of Kentucky or maybe Virginia. I was born in Illinois, and I like to tell people that the two most scenic drives in the state are the Great River Road outside of Alton and U.S. Route 20 between Elizabeth and Galena. Have your camera ready!

Galena

Galena is our final destination, and it’s a great place to spend several days.

As I mentioned at the beginning of this piece, Galena is a town with decades of history. Ulysses S. Grant lived here for part of his life, and when he ran for president, his campaign office was located on Main Street in Galena.

Speaking of Galena’s Main Street, it’s often included on best-of lists, and once you come upon it, you’ll see why. There are charming shops, restaurants, and art galleries as far as the eye can see.

But there’s much more to do in Galena aside from strolling the vibrant Main Street. I chronicled many of those things in this article. I’ve visited at least a half-dozen times, and each time I find more interesting things to do. We’ve visited in the winter to go skiing, and we’ve visited in the summer for the Fourth of July. It’s the perfect getaway spot — and the perfect end to our road trip.

How To Spend A Day In Intriguing Roswell, New Mexico

On a warm summer day in 1947, a New Mexico rancher stumbled upon mysterious debris strewn across the desert near his home. Although the rubber strips and bright pieces of tinfoil he collected and turned in to the authorities have since been found to be the result of Project Mogul, a military project that used high-flying balloons to monitor the Soviet Union’s atomic bomb tests, many people still enjoy the idea that aliens landed in Roswell. It’s a popular conspiracy theory on par with determining who really killed President John F. Kennedy or proving the moon landing was faked.

And so, curious visitors continue to flock to Roswell, a dramatic television series is based on the premise that aliens live among the townspeople, and the small southeastern New Mexico town embraces its connection to aliens more than 70 years later.

But once you’ve binged on all things alien, there is much more to see and do in Roswell.

Things To Do In Roswell

You can’t go to Roswell and not do at least one thing related to extraterrestrials, whether you envision them as little green men with hollow black eyes or your high-school crush. That would be like visiting San Francisco and not seeing the Golden Gate Bridge or visiting New York and skipping the Statue of Liberty.

Stop By The International UFO Museum And Research Center

Located in the heart of downtown Roswell, the International UFO Museum and Research Center, established in 1991 as a nonprofit educational organization, is a great way to kick off a day in Roswell. It takes about an hour to explore the exhibits related to the 1947 Roswell incident and learn about other unexplained phenomena related to UFO research. And the gift shop is full of unique alien gifts to help you remember your visit.

An alien selfie station in Roswell's Alien Zone. — Sage Scott

Enjoy Other Alien Adventures

Along Main Street, there are many other alien-themed boutiques and experiences. My kids always get a kick out of Alien Zone, a unique gift shop with a variety of alien selfie stations. And each year in early July, the UFO Capital of the World hosts the UFO Festival.

For a different kind of otherworldly experience, check out the Goddard Planetarium at the Roswell Museum & Art Center. Covering topics from the origins of the universe to our efforts to explore Mars, out-of-this-world films are shown on the domed screen three times a week.

The Chaves County Courthouse in Roswell. — Rex Wholster / Shutterstock

Explore The Historic Downtown

Many decades before aliens allegedly crashed in the desert, Roswell was home to John Chisum’s Jingle Bob Ranch, the largest cattle ranch in the United States. As you explore downtown Roswell, it’s easy to be captivated by the McDonald’s shaped like a spaceship, the murals of little green men, and the alien-shaped streetlights. But also watch for public art displays and other nods to the city’s ranchers.

And you can’t miss the Chaves County Courthouse on Main Street, a beautiful beaux arts building topped with a green tiled dome. Completed before New Mexico became a state, the courthouse is now on the National Register of Historic Places.

Head To The Roswell Museum & Art Center

In addition to the Goddard Planetarium, the Roswell Museum & Art Center houses a collection of more than 11,000 works of art and historical artifacts. The museum focuses on the indigenous Pueblo tribes and artists of the region, but the collection also includes works by Dali, Picasso, O’Keeffe, and other world-renowned artists.

From a historical perspective, the museum focuses on the history of the American West, from the impact the Spanish conquest and European-American settlers had on the region to New Mexico’s tie with missiles and space. In fact, the planetarium is named for Robert H. Goddard, the founder of modern rocketry, who built the world’s first liquid-fueled rocket and broke the sound barrier with a rocket launched in the open desert near Roswell. Don’t miss the opportunity to see a recreation of his rocket engine workshop at the museum when you visit Roswell.

The Anderson Museum of Contemporary House in Roswell. — The RAiR Foundation

Visit The Anderson Museum Of Contemporary Art

Contemporary art lovers won’t want to miss the Anderson Museum, established in 1994 to showcase the work of the Roswell Artist-in-Residence Program. This longstanding “gift of time” program has provided studio-based visual artists with funding, allowing them to focus on their art in a collaborative environment for one year. The museum now displays more than 500 works of art, from intriguing paintings to impressive sculptures, in its 12 galleries.

Bottomless Lakes State Park near Roswell, New Mexico. — Jeffrey M. Frank / Shutterstock

Experience The Great Outdoors At Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge Or Bottomless Lakes State Park

With its mild climate and abundant sunshine, Roswell is a great place to enjoy the outdoors.

Located on the northeastern edge of town, the Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge is home to bobcats, badgers, and deer. The refuge is also a great place to observe thousands of migratory birds. While the scenery is always gorgeous, the best time to catch the critters is within a few hours of sunrise or sunset.

Just a few miles southeast of Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge is Bottomless Lakes State Park. This is another great place to go birding, but you can also kayak, canoe, fish, or even scuba dive at Bottomless Lakes. The state park got its name from the sinkholes that make the lakes appear to be bottomless. Some are as deep as 90 feet! In addition to the water, Bottomless Lakes State Park offers nearly 5 miles of hiking trails, campsites, and picnic areas.

Sample New Mexico Wines At Pecos Flavors Winery & Bistro

Did you know that the first wine grapes in the U.S. were planted in New Mexico? Before Prohibition, the Land of Enchantment was one of the largest wine-producing regions in the nation. How about that, California? Enjoy New Mexico wines, Land of Enchantment beers, and a bite to eat at Pecos Flavors Winery & Bistro just a few blocks west of Main Street.

Food from Big D’s Downtown Dive in Roswell. — Sage Scott

Best Restaurants In Roswell

Green Chile Spots

From Alamogordo to Williamsburg, the 47th state is known for its chiles. While Roswell is more than 200 miles from Hatch, the Chile Capital of the World, there’s no shortage of delicious ways to enjoy green chiles in Roswell.

At the Pecos Flavors Winery & Bistro, try the green chile cheeseburger or turkey with green chile jelly sandwich. To enjoy the flavorful chiles in more traditional New Mexican fare, check out El Toro Bravo, Popo’s, or Amigos.

Cattle Baron

Embrace Roswell’s cattle-ranching history with a burger or steak at the Cattle Baron. And, if you want green chiles and beef, this regional steakhouse chain has you covered with its green chile wonton appetizer and green chile stew. Plus, you can always get a side of green chiles!

The Cowboy Cafe

From its Wild West decor to its mothership burger, The Cowboy Cafe brings Roswell’s rich history together in one delicious menu. Whether you enjoy biscuits and gravy, huevos rancheros, the chile relleno burger, or the chuckwagon plate, the portions are very generous. But you’ll want to be sure to save room for a slice of pie. I highly recommend the pecan!

Big D’s Downtown Dive

Whether they’re topped with green chiles or not, some of the best burgers in town are at Big D’s Downtown Dive. For a green chile burger with a twist, try the Holy Guacamole with housemade guacamole. For something other than burgers, try the Cuban sandwich or the crispy Monte Cristo. Be warned: Big D’s motto is “Great burgers, sh*y parking,” and they’re telling the truth! Try to visit outside of peak mealtimes for shorter waits and better parking opportunities.

Best Places To Stay In Roswell

Although my stops in Roswell have been short ones on New Mexico road trips, there are many places to stay in Roswell if you plan to spend the night. The city has a variety of hotels and motels, from national chains to local gems. You can also find vacation rentals through services like Vrbo and Airbnb, enjoy a bed and breakfast like the Clary Sage, or book a campsite.

What To Know Before You Go

Many travelers are surprised to learn that New Mexico is the nation’s fourth-highest state. While the elevation in Roswell is 3,500 feet, it only takes a change in altitude of 1,000 feet to trigger altitude sickness. Be sure to drink plenty of water and take other measures to avoid altitude sickness.

Throughout New Mexico, be prepared for the state question, “Red or green?” to determine if you’d like red chiles or green chiles added to your meal. If you want to try both, simply reply, “Christmas.”

North Dakota Road Trip: Fargo To Medora

North Dakota is a state that many have on their bucket lists. If there is one thing that I know for sure, it’s the fact that it belongs at the top of your list. A fantastic road trip from Fargo to Medora awaits you. The food, experiences, and landscape will stick with you forever. Summer brings fantastic weather and an opportunity to enjoy more attractions. Now is the perfect time to plan your Fargo to Medora road trip. Let’s go!

Note: I received complimentary press trip admission to some of the attractions suggested in this article. All opinions remain my own.

Fargo, North Dakota

The Fargo-Moorhead Visitors Center, located at 2001 44th Street S. in Fargo, is where your road trip begins. It is located off of I-94 at Exit 348. You will notice the grain elevator as you enter the parking lot. Here is where you need to take a photo of yourself with the famous woodchipper from the movie Fargo. A fake leg and bomber hats are available to complete this look.

The Fargo Air Museum is home to numerous aircraft and prides itself on being the home to one of the Midwest’s largest aviation libraries. The rotating exhibits make this a unique visit any time of the year. Pet travelers will rejoice, as pets are welcome in this museum. A fun thing that the air museum offers is Veterans Coffee Hour.

The one thing that surprises most visitors when they visit Fargo is the variety of food in the restaurants. Brewpubs with flare, Mexican, Italian, sushi, steaks, and Chinese are some of the tastes you will enjoy in Fargo. Spot the painted bison around town for fun photo moments and a glimpse into the art scene. There are numerous hotels in the area that accommodate travelers’ different needs. Lodging is available downtown and also near I-94.

Plan to spend a minimum of one day in Fargo. Most likely, you will find yourself planning to spend more time here at a later date.

The Hi-Line Railroad Bridge in Valley City. — CJ Cagney / Shutterstock

Valley City, North Dakota

Road trippers will appreciate the Sheyenne River Valley National Scenic Byway. Views of the 3,800-foot long Hi-Line Railroad Bridge from Chautauqua Park are magnificent. Several diners offer home-cooked meals as well as desserts to indulge in before you continue your drive. Valley City is beautiful and offers insight into the bridges of North Dakota. Plan to stop here for four to five hours in between your time spent in Fargo and Jamestown.

The world's largest buffalo in Jamestown. — Daniel M. Silva / Shutterstock

Jamestown, North Dakota

Traveling west on I-94 from Fargo will take you to Jamestown. This is where you will find the National Buffalo Museum and Frontier Village. You will want to be sure to see the rare white buffalo that is on display at the museum. Take your photo with the world’s largest buffalo monument; it’s a photo opportunity that you will not find elsewhere. Frontier Village is also where you can take a step back in time and experience a simpler place in time. Railroad enthusiasts will appreciate the Northern Pacific Railroad Depot, which was the first railroad depot in Jamestown in 1880. Gift shops feature North Dakota products and handmade goods from local artisans.

The walkways in Frontier Village are not level, so it’s important to have a steady foot while walking through this area. If you are lucky, you will witness an old-fashioned Wild West shootout. Jamestown makes the perfect stop as you head west across North Dakota. A tasty meal can be found at Sabir’s Buffalo Grill. For a taste of the West, indulge in a bison filet or prime rib. Plan to spend a full day in Jamestown, as you’re sure to find multiple experiences that will lure you in.

Bismarck, North Dakota

Bismarck is where you can find art in an alley. Alley 5.5 is located on 5th Street halfway between Broadway and Main Avenue. Plan 30 minutes to stroll this alley and take it all in. It’s truly a one-of-a-kind experience, and it’s not something that you expect to find in North Dakota.

History comes to life in the North Dakota Heritage Center and State Museum. This museum is stunning and will easily fill more than two hours of your time, so plan accordingly. Any visit to Bismarck would not be complete without a ride on the Lewis and Clark riverboat. This is a great way to see the scenery in the area as you float down the Missouri River. The Blarney Stone Irish Pub is where I would recommend rounding out your day in Bismarck with a dish of Jameson Irish bread pudding.

Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park is home to history and can easily fill most of your day. Stop at the visitors center to check on the availability of guided tours in the park for the day. Pack a picnic lunch and enjoy the views of the park. There is a small fee for vehicles entering the park, but it’s well worth the money spent. Bismarck has so much to offer that you will most likely want to plan a return visit.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota. — Zack Frank / Shutterstock

Watford City, North Dakota

Watford City is north and west on your road trip, but well worth the extra miles. Nature is beautiful in this area of North Dakota. If you have invested in an annual or lifetime membership to the national parks, this will cover your admission fees to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Watford City is near the north unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, where you will find many outdoor opportunities. Make sure to pack your binoculars, as the Little Missouri River is surrounded by many miles of prairie that are home to more than 200 different species of birds.

Riverbend Overlook offers a view that you will carry with you for a lifetime. A large portion of this trail is handicap accessible. Wear supportive shoes as the trails that continue through the park are rocky and unlevel. The bison roam freely, so stay alert.

Lodging in Watford City is unique and rooms fill quickly. I would highly suggest booking a room at the Roosevelt Inn and Suites as early as possible. Once you’re there, take an outdoor selfie with Theodore Roosevelt for a memory of your road trip across North Dakota. Stonehome Brewing offers pizza and beer, which make for the perfect way to end your day. You can easily fill one full road trip day with Watford City activities.

Dickinson, North Dakota

Dickinson is a regional hub for southwestern North Dakota and is where you’re invited to soak in the history lessons that it offers. The Dickinson Museum Center is home to dinosaur exhibits, fossils, heritage exhibits, machinery exhibits, and farming and ranching demonstrations. Plan to spend a minimum of two hours here as there is a lot to see.

Agriculture enthusiasts will appreciate Prairie Outpost Park and Pioneer Machinery Hall. Upon your arrival, inquire about the availability of guided tours at the museums, as they may be available. A fantastic place to have a picnic and do some fishing is Patterson Lake Recreational Area. If you forgot your fishing poles at home, local stores have them for purchase. A fun place to stop while in town is The Wurst Shop. Here you can experience meats of all types that are processed on site.

The Chateau de Mores State Historic Site. — Randall Runtsch / Shutterstock

Medora, North Dakota

Between Dickinson and Medora, you will see signs for the Painted Canyon. Be sure to take the exit and enjoy the views here. Then, continue on to Medora. This is where your beautiful North Dakota road trip wraps up and where the gateway to the south unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park sits. The Chateau de Mores State Historic Site offers views of the badlands and insight into the history of the town. The North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame is where cowboys and the history of Medora are celebrated. Theodore Roosevelt National Park is home to stunning views, bison, and wild horses. Medora is a small town; fewer than 150 people live here, but it plays big. Two of my favorite meals have been at Medora Uncork’d and the Little Missouri Saloon and Dining Room. The blueberry meatball pizza at Medora Uncork’d and the mouthwatering taco salad from the saloon have me wanting to return now.

These seven towns will welcome you as you explore North Dakota. The people, food, and nature encounters offer legendary experiences that you cannot have in any other state. Embrace the wide open skies as you travel North Dakota.

5 Fantastic Stops On An RV Trip Through The Southwest

Pack up your RV and head to the Southwest! Our itinerary includes stops at four of Utah’s Mighty Five National Parks — Zion, Bryce Canyon, Arches, and Canyonlands. Each is spectacular in its own way, showcasing amazing geological formations and red rock mesas, gorges, and rivers as well as fantastic stargazing.

We will then head south to Arizona for the Grand Canyon and finish at Lake Powell.

You can RV camp at each of these parks, but be sure to check whether your rig will fit before making a reservation. Most of the campgrounds are standard non-electric, but there are commercial sites and full-hookup sites available near most of the stops.

Arches National Park in Utah. — milosk50 / Shutterstock

1. Arches National Park And Canyonlands National Park, Utah

We’ll start by exiting Interstate 70 and driving south on U.S. Route 191 a few miles to Arches National Park and the nearby Canyonlands National Park in eastern Utah. These picturesque parks are only about 35 miles apart.

Arches National Park has the largest concentration of natural sandstone arches in the country. One of them is the Delicate Arch, which is depicted on the Utah license plate. There is one campground in the park that is always full, but there are also plenty of Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands and BLM-developed campgrounds in the area, as well as at Dead Horse Point State Park in the Moab area. This is a very popular recreation destination from March through October, so plan ahead, be prepared for lots of traffic, and have backup plans in mind.

Views of Canyonlands National Park from Island in the Sky. — Keneva Photography / Shutterstock

Canyonlands National Park has two primitive campgrounds. You can’t make reservations, but they are accessible to RVs. This park boasts two fantastic scenic drives, so if you are not a hiker, there’s no need to worry. The 34-mile Island in the Sky offers overlooks with amazing views of the canyon. There are also short, paved walks you can take at some of the stopping points on the drives. Gravel road drives are available for those with four-wheel-drive capability, and guided rafting tours are offered by a number of local outfitters.

You’ll buy all your food and provisions in Moab, a small town that caters to tourists with plenty of eats and shopping. Spring and fall are the most hospitable seasons on this high desert plateau. Summer temperatures regularly exceed 100 degrees.

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah. — Jay Mudaliar / Shutterstock

2. Bryce Canyon National Park And Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah

Get back on Interstate 70 and head west and then south for the longest part of the trip (250 miles) to Bryce Canyon National Park.

This park is home to the largest concentration of magnificent hoodoos on Earth. These distinctive rock towers look like drippings of wet clay that have been left to dry in the sun. The hoodoos rise out of the canyon and dwarf the pine trees that surround the area, giving a wonderful green and orange hue to the landscape. Some of the hoodoos are cone shaped with white sandstone tips, making them look a bit like candy corn.

Because of its high elevation (8,000 feet), Bryce Canyon is a great place to visit in the summer, when the temperatures are moderate. You can hike or take a guided horseback ride within the canyon for spectacular views. You’ll find everything from mile-long trails to strenuous 8-mile trails going down into the canyon and back up. For more on hiking options at Bryce Canyon, see this piece.

Ruby’s Inn, a 100-year-old historic settlement, is where you’ll want to stay if you can’t get into one of the park’s two campgrounds (both standard non-electric). Ruby’s has a full-service campground, hotel, and resort. Sunset Campground in the park is spectacular because of the twilight views of the rocks — a breathtaking light show. For more on accommodations within and near Bryce Canyon National Park, see this piece.

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in Utah. — sumikophoto / Shutterstock

After visiting Bryce Canyon, make the 20-mile trip over to the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, a million acres of BLM land where you can hike, bike, and enjoy some of the most magnificent scenes in the Southwest. There are three developed campgrounds with fees, but the surface roads are gravel or dirt, so be aware of the weather before you go.

Zion National Park in Utah. — fabernova / Shutterstock

3. Zion National Park, Utah

Next, head 70 miles south through the gorgeous red rock country to Zion National Park and the nearby town of Springdale, Utah.

Zion National Park is filled with slot canyons and tall peaks. It has some of the best hiking and rock climbing in the country. You can even walk the Narrows in the Virgin River through slot canyons. It’s an amazing experience. Seasoned hikers can climb to Angels Landing for magnificent vistas. Those looking for a less strenuous experience can take the tram to the various highlights, walk the trails, take in the Court of the Patriarchs, and have lunch at the Lodge. For more hiking options at Zion National Park, see this piece.

Zion is dramatic and varies greatly in formations and elevations. The weather in the area can be tricky, and flash floods are a constant threat, especially to hikers. Always check the forecast before setting out.

There are two campgrounds in the park, and they are always full from the spring to the fall, even when temperatures climb to 100 degrees in the summer. However, there is quite a bit of BLM land outside the town of Springdale where you can camp just a short drive from the park. Another option is to treat yourself to a spot at the Zion River Resort RV Park and Campground on the Virgin River. For more on accommodations within and near Zion National Park, see this piece.

Springdale is an artsy town with galleries, shops, and lots of hotels and restaurants. It offers great views of Zion, including sunset views of light on the mesas. All the outfitters for backpacking and hiking the Narrows can be found in Springdale as well. A free shuttle will take you from a variety of parking lots in Springdale to Zion’s main entrance, where there is a pedestrian path that runs straight into the park.

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona. — Amanda Mohler / Shutterstock

4. North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

If you have the time, make the trip south from Zion to the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. If not, make your way directly to Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.

Head southeast through the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel and travel about 145 mountainous miles to Arizona and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. This iconic landmark is worth the journey. The canyon is 18 miles wide and a mile deep, so you will see plenty from the less-crowded North Rim. You’ll find one standard non-electric campground and an on-site dump station. A lodge with a restaurant, bar, coffee shop, and general store is located at the North Rim Visitor Center.

Several scenic drives inside the North Rim boast parking, picnic overlooks, and trailheads. The Cape Royal Drive is 23 miles long and offers a beautiful view of the Colorado River. Several area outfitters offer river trips.

While there are plenty of short trails to choose from, remember that you are at over 8,000 feet, so don’t overexert yourself and watch for signs of altitude sickness. Weather conditions you might encounter between May and October include heavy rain and snow.

Horseshoe Bend in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. — Alexander Lozitsky / Shutterstock

5. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area And Antelope Canyon, Arizona And Utah

Head back the way you came and travel northeast 125 miles to the Utah-Arizona border and the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area on Lake Powell near Page, Arizona. You’ll pass by some of the most beautiful land you’ve ever seen, but the journey is slow. You’ll be near the south side of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.

This is a major recreational area with more attractions than you can see on one trip: boating on the lake, hiking and driving the canyons and mountains, Horseshoe Bend on the Colorado River, and Rainbow Bridge National Monument, just to name a few.

Antelope Canyon in Arizona. — NaughtyNut / Shutterstock

But for this trip, let’s focus on the Antelope Canyon attractions. You must hire a commercial guide to take you through, and tours range from simple hour-long walks to multiple-hour photography tours. Antelope’s Upper and Lower Canyons are always crowded, but Antelope Canyon X, which is farther south, is less crowded. All feature amazingly beautiful orange, red, yellow, and cream rocks in tight slot canyons with water running through them. The swirling colors and smooth texture make them look like marble. The guides know where to walk, where the water is, and what weather conditions are expected (flash floods). Some areas involve somewhat strenuous hikes that require minor climbing. Check with the guide company to find the tour that’s best for you.

The Lake Powell area is busy in the summer, with hundreds of houseboats and thousands of visitors, so make summer reservations early or plan to go in the more temperate spring or fall months.

Make your base camp at Wahweap RV & Campground for full hookups and an array of services. Other National Park Service choices include primitive beach camping at Lone Rock Beach and sites south of the Glen Canyon Dam around Lees Ferry. BLM camping is available at the White House Campground, which is well northwest of Page. White House is amazingly isolated and beautiful — a perfect place to get far from the crowds.

This road trip could take a month or a week, depending on how much you want to see and do. Consider a northern tour of just Bryce, Grand Staircase, Arches, and Canyonlands or a southern tour of Zion, the North Rim, and Antelope Canyon. The scenery is spectacular, and no matter what route you choose, you won’t be disappointed.