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How To Spend A Weekend In Belfast

How To Spend A Weekend In Belfast

Belfast, Northern Ireland, is quickly becoming one of Europe’s hottest tourist destinations. Once the epicenter of the Troubles, a series of violent clashes between Catholics and Protestants, this capital city is enjoying a renaissance. Tourists flock here for the stunning architecture, incredible coastal views, cultural offerings, and friendly pub culture.

Belfast is an easy trip from Dublin — either by public transport or car — and is the perfect place to spend a weekend when you’re visiting Ireland. Here are a few things you should consider doing when visiting this fantastic spot.

The Titanic Museum in Belfast.

Nataliya Hora / Shutterstock

Experience The Titanic Museum

Situated at the mouth of the River Lagan and close to the Irish Sea, Belfast made its fortune in shipping and maritime commerce. Belfast’s Harland and Wolff shipyard is where the ill-fated cruise liner Titanic was built, along with her sister ships, the Britannic and Olympic. The Titanic, of course, collided with an iceberg and sank on her maiden voyage in 1912. More than 1,500 people were killed.

To learn what it took to construct the massive ship, what the cruise experience was like for those onboard, and more on the devastating aftermath of the ship’s sinking, head to the Titanic Belfast. You’ll marvel at the museum’s massive metal facade, crafted to resemble a ship’s masts. Inside, nine interactive exhibits tell the story of the doomed luxury liner in vivid detail, as well as how its wreckage was finally discovered more than 70 year later.

The museum is open year-round except on Christmas. Adult admission costs £19.

Troubles murals in Belfast.

VanderWolf Images / Shutterstock

Ponder The Troubles Murals

It’s been more than 20 years since the Troubles came to an end in Belfast. While the violence that claimed thousands of lives is often blamed on the differences between Catholics and Protestants, it was also politically charged: Loyalists wanted Northern Ireland to remain part of the United Kingdom, while republicans wanted it to become part of the Republic of Ireland.

To get a glimpse of how the conflict shaped the region, take the time to examine the Troubles murals you’ll see around the city. These colorful artistic renderings are painted directly on the walls that were erected to keep the sides apart during the height of the violence. The most famous of them is the Falls Road International Peace Wall, which illustrates not just the Troubles, but other global conflicts as well.

To learn more about the conflict, think about booking a driving tour of these sites. Black Taxi Tours runs some of the most popular in the city.

Belfast Castle in Northern Ireland.

Nahlik / Shutterstock

Stroll The Grounds Of Belfast Castle

For some incredible views in a gorgeous Victorian setting, head to Belfast Castle, nestled in the hills above the city. The original castle was built on this site in the late 12th century; it was destroyed by a fire in the early 1700s. The grand home here today was finished in 1870 and later donated to the city. The gardens are beautiful and perfect for strolling if you need a break from the bustle of Belfast.

The castle is popular as a wedding venue, and it also offers fine dining on-site at its Cellar Restaurant, plus cocktails, tea, and small plates at the Castle Tavern.

The Ulster Museum in Belfast.

Dignity 100 / Shutterstock

Travel Back In Time At The Ulster Museum

If you’re a history buff, the Ulster Museum should be on your must-see list. This gem, situated in the city’s equally impressive Botanic Gardens, features permanent collections that highlight natural wonders, fine art, and archeological artifacts, all telling the story of Northern Ireland’s past and present. You’ll see jewelry and shields used by the Celts, a terrific treasure trove of textiles, and the museum’s mummy, who has an intriguing story of her own.

The museum is free to the public and open Tuesday through Sunday, except for bank holidays and Christmas.

The Belfast City Hall in Northern Ireland.

Serg Zastavkin / Shutterstock

Marvel At The City Hall

The Belfast City Hall is a stunning reflection of the city’s Victorian heyday. The administrative center, located in Donegall Square and built in 1906, is constructed of local stone and features gorgeous stained glass, gleaming woodwork, and high-end finishes that might just remind you of the interior of — you guessed it — the Titanic. That’s because Belfast’s mayor was almost managing director at Harland and Wolff, and he hired many of the shipyard’s craftsmen to work on the City Hall’s interior. Keep in mind that at the time the building was constructed, Belfast was quite prosperous as a global maritime center. The Belfast City Hall was designed to show off that wealth, and it still shines.

Free tours of the space are offered three times per day on a first-come, first-served basis.

The Metropolitan Arts Centre in Belfast.

riccar / Shutterstock

Appreciate Art At The MAC

Belfast’s robust commitment to culture and the arts is on full display at the Metropolitan Arts Centre (MAC). Located in Cathedral Square, this is the spot to get a funky, forward-thinking art fix. The MAC, which opened in 2012, has just one permanent work of art; you’ll see The Permanent Present, a colorful wire sculpture, inside the MAC’s foyer. All other exhibitions are temporary, which means things change around here — a lot. The MAC also offers a dizzying array of special events, live performances, and programs.

The MAC is open every day and is free to the public.

Eating And Drinking In Belfast

While Belfast is famous for its pub culture, the food offerings here range from tasty grub to high-end haute cuisine. From the famous Ulster fry (a gut-busting breakfast featuring eggs, sausage, bacon, grilled tomatoes, mushrooms, and potato, plus soda bread) to fresh seafood caught off the coast and elegantly prepared, there is something for every palate here.

For starters, you can’t go wrong strolling through Belfast’s Cathedral Square. This area, centered on Saint Anne’s Cathedral, is an entertainment hot spot with terrific pubs and places to eat. Made In Belfast, a kitschy cafe with a location in the square, serves up traditional Northern Irish fare in a lively setting. Hadskis, tucked into an 18th-century building near the square, specializes in Northern Irish meat dishes like steak and lamb, seafood dishes, and traditional puddings and chips. It’s open for lunch, happy hour, and dinner Monday through Friday, and it serves up a terrific brunch on the weekends.

For a decadent tasting experience, head to OX. The carefully crafted, seasonal dishes feature Irish cuisine imbued with a continental approach and creativity. You’ll drop some money here, but you’ll spend several hours enjoying the experience and presentation.

For the perfect grab-and-go option that will satisfy any foodie, get to Sawers. This famous Belfast deli has been around for more than 120 years, and it’s a great place to pick up a hamper — or picnic basket — packed with delicious nibbles like cheese, charcuterie, and locally smoked fish.

Of course, no trip to Belfast would be complete without a pub stop — or pub crawl if you’re feeling adventurous. The Crown Liquor Saloon and Duke of York are worth visiting for their Victorian decor and rich histories. But you really can’t go wrong stopping into less-touristy spots and enjoying a pint of fresh Guinness or a Bushmills whiskey (the Bushmills distillery is right down the road from Belfast!).

Saint George's Market in Belfast.

Friemann / Shutterstock

Shopping In Belfast

There are plenty of interesting stores in Belfast, but the best place to shop is definitely Saint George’s Market. This traditional Victorian covered market is open Friday through Sunday and offers fresh produce and locally made handicrafts, including pottery, glass, and metalwork. You can sample tea, coffee, and local snacks to your heart’s content, plus buy plenty to stash away for your travels home. Look for traditional Irish linen, as well as jewelry festooned with ancient Celtic symbols.

Where To Stay In Belfast

There are some truly incredible historic accommodations in Belfast.

If a visit to the Titanic Belfast wasn’t enough for you, consider checking in to the Titanic Hotel. This posh spot was once the site of Harland and Wolff’s headquarters, and it’s a great centrally located option for your Belfast holiday. The rooms are well appointed, with nods to the famous shipbuilding company subtly incorporated.

The Fitzwilliam Hotel is located in the heart of Belfast just steps away from the Grand Opera House. The rooms are luxe, the afternoon tea is a delight, and the on-site restaurant offers sumptuous pre- and post-theater dinners.

The Merchant Hotel, situated in a former bank building in the city’s Cathedral Quarter, boasts a jazz bar, full-service spa, and a rooftop gym with sweeping city views.

Pro Tip: Belfast is a small, walkable city, and strolling is truly the best way to take in the big sights. Make sure you pack a good pair of supportive, comfortable shoes. You’ll get in plenty of steps!

The Best Things To Do In Big Bear, California In The Winter

Located in the San Bernardino National Forest in Southern California, Big Bear is a fun winter destination offering a variety of outdoor activities. Whether you’re coming from Los Angeles, Orange County, or San Diego, you can get to this mountain resort town in less than 3 hours. And for those who prefer to look at the snow from inside, there are plenty of activities for you as well.

Here are the best things to do in Big Bear during the winter.

Ski slopes at sunrise in Big Bear, California.

Visit Big Bear

Hit The Slopes

Whether you prefer to speed downhill on skis or a snowboard, Big Bear has two options: Bear Mountain and Snow Summit. Both facilities offer slopes with skill levels ranging from beginner to advanced. And if you’ve never tried these snow sports before, lessons are available for all ages. Equipment can be rented on-site either when you arrive or online in advance. It’s recommended that you purchase lift tickets online in advance.

If you’re looking for a unique challenge, or aren’t available during the day, consider skiing and snowboarding at night at Snow Summit on select dates.

While skiing and snowboarding, you will have a terrific choice of food options at both Bear Mountain and Snow Summit. Each has more than a dozen cafes, restaurants, and bars to choose from.

A man snowshoeing in Big Bear, California.

Visit Big Bear

Walk Through The Snow

The ski slopes and tube parks are always buzzing with people and activity. If you’re looking for something more peaceful, head out on a local trail for hiking or snowshoeing.

If you have your own snowshoes, then just head out on one of the local trails. If you’d like to rent snowshoes, then visit Blauer Board Shop or Goldsmiths. If you’ve never tried snowshoeing, or are unfamiliar with the area, consider joining a 3-hour trek led by a local, experienced guide from Action Tours or The Discovery Center.

Hiking in the winter is an opportunity to experience nature covered in a blanket of snow. Throughout the region, there are dozens of hiking trails, but right in Big Bear are four trails ranging in distance from .5 to 5.4 miles: the Alpine Pedal Path Trail, Woodland Trail, Discovery Center Nature Trail, and Cougar Crest Trail.

Sliding down the mountain in Big Bear.

Visit Big Bear

Slide Down The Mountain

After skiing, snow tubing is Big Bear’s most popular winter activity. In fact, there are three tubing areas: Alpine Slide at Magic Mountain, Big Bear Snow Play, and Grizzly Ridge. Tubing is a nice option for multigenerational travel, since everyone can participate together in one place — no need to select the right slope for each skill level.

If dragging your tube uphill after sliding down sounds daunting, don’t worry. Each tubing park includes a “magic carpet” ride through clear tunnels, so it’s easy to keep tubing as long as you’d like.

Two of the tubing parks — Alpine Slide and Big Bear Snow Play — also offer glow tubing after dark on select nights. While Grizzly Ridge doesn’t offer glow tubing, it is located at Snow Summit, making it a great choice for groups interested in both skiing and tubing.

If you prefer sledding, Big Bear does not disappoint. There are several places throughout the national forest that are approved for sleds and toboggans, including Aspen Glen Picnic Area, Grays Peak Trail, and Cougar Crest Trail. You will need to bring your own sled or purchase one at a nearby sporting goods store. Most sledding areas are located on National Forest land and therefore require an Adventure Pass to park. These can be purchased at local convenience stores, gas stations, and sporting goods stores. Just be sure to do this prior to your sledding adventure.

Learn About Big Bear’s Wildlife

Kids and adults alike will enjoy a visit to the Big Bear Alpine Zoo, a rehabilitation facility offering injured and orphaned wild animals a safe haven. About 90 percent of the animals brought to this facility are returned to the wild after being cared for by the zoo’s staff. Visitors may see brown bears, arctic foxes, barn owls, and bobcats. While the zoo is open year-round, hours vary by season, so check the website before visiting.

Big Bear is also home to a pair of bald eagles named Jackie and Shadow. The pair recently built a nest, and in early January, two eggs were spotted. To keep track of this eagle family, the National Park Service installed a camera nearby, and a live feed is available through their Facebook page, which currently has more than 36,000 followers.

Enjoy Live Music Or A Show

After a long day outdoors in the cold, it’s nice to be indoors. Big Bear offers a variety of entertainment options, including movies, music, and theater.

For live music in an intimate setting, check out The Cave. This venue offers a combination of big-name bands along with excellent tribute bands. All ages are welcome, though kids under 17 must be accompanied by an adult.

The Village Theater only offers one movie at a time, but they are first-run movies. And tickets cost just $5 a person on Tuesday evenings!

If live theater is more your style, then consider purchasing tickets to a show at the Big Bear Theatre Project or Big Bear Performing Arts Center. Big Bear Theatre offers year-round productions of popular plays and musicals like Our Town and The Importance of Being Earnest. The performing arts center offers plays in addition to dance and musical performances.

Eating In Big Bear

Big Bear is loaded with great restaurants and cafes serving food from around the world. The only tough part is deciding where to start!

For breakfast, the Grizzly Manor Cafe is highly recommended by both locals and visitors for its grizzly-sized portions. It’s one of the most popular restaurants in town, so be prepared for a wait. Another delicious option for breakfast is the Teddy Bear Restaurant, which has been operating in Big Bear for more than 60 years. If you’re a pie lover, then be sure to order a slice of the homemade pie.

For lunch or a snack, pop in to Amangela’s Sandwich & Bagel House. This place is known for its bagels, coffee drinks, smoothies, and homemade soups.

For lunch or dinner head to Maggio’s for pizza and pasta. This restaurant isn’t fancy, but it’s always busy due to its delicious food. For California cuisine, try Oakside Restaurant & Bar, which serves steak, seafood, pizza, and flatbreads. Oakside also specializes in craft beers, with 15 currently on tap.

For something really unique, try the Himalayan Restaurant specializing in Nepalese and Indian food, or head to Gaby’s Latin Flavors, which serves up Mexican and Bolivian cuisine.

Shopping In Big Bear

If you’re looking to take a break from skiing, or just don’t enjoy snow sports, don’t worry — Big Bear also offers plenty of shopping opportunities. The best place to start is in the center of town, known locally as “the Village.” Here there are dozens of specialty shops along a few charming streets, all within easy walking distance. Whether you are looking for warm clothing, home decor, books, or handcrafted items, there is a shop for you.

Some of my favorite shops in the area are Cabin Fever Gifts & Decor, Mountain Witch Tea Company, and Candle Dreams. Browsing through boutiques is a nice way to spend a day.

If antique shopping is something you enjoy, then Big Bear is also a good bet. Locals recommend starting at Fox Farm Antique Mall, which features 20 separate dealers in one location. In nearby Fawnskin is North Shore Antiques & Collectibles, which features five dealers offering antique furnishings, collectibles, jewelry, and art.

Finally, this town is full of excellent ski and snowboard shops selling both equipment and clothing. Check out Goldsmiths or Blauer Board Shop.

A cabin in Big Bear during the winter time.

Visit Big Bear

Where To Stay

In keeping with the mountain resort atmosphere, most of the accommodations in Big Bear are cabins. Fortunately, there are a large selection of cabins ranging in size and amenities.

For accommodations close to the Village, consider staying at Pine Knot Guest Ranch, which offers seven cabins spread over 2 acres. All of the cabins include in-room jacuzzis, fireplaces, kitchenettes, porches, and Wi-Fi.

Big Bear Frontier, an ideal family resort, offers both guest rooms and cabins of varying sizes. You can rent bicycles, and there are movies, books, and games available to borrow.

In Big Bear and the surrounding cities, there are hundreds of private cabins available for rent. Big Bear’s tourism board is a great resource for finding one of these. A private rental is a good choice when traveling with a large group or multiple families.

If a more traditional hotel is your preference, there are some nice choices. The Lodge At Big Bear Lake is a Holiday Inn property that includes a pool, fitness center, and on-site restaurant. The Best Western Big Bear Chateau also offers a pool and fitness center, as well as an included breakfast.

7 Totally Free Walking Tours In Seoul

Nothing beats walking to find the soul of a city. So, when I visited Seoul, South Korea, in December 2019 while I was housesitting, I signed up for several walking tours — all of which were offered free of charge!

Some tours of the more traditional tourist sites are organized by the Seoul tourism offices, while some off-the-beaten-path tours are guided by Korean university students who want to practice their English, show off their favorite “hidden gems,” and earn a few won in tips.

There are actually about 60 free walking tours offered (29 are offered by the city of Seoul alone!), but here are seven to get you started. So, break out your sneakers and get ready to walk, stroll, climb, and savor Seoul!

Here are my favorite free walking tours:

The writer on the Sky Park walking tour.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

1. Sky Park, Seafood Market, And Street Food Tour

Guided by 24-year-old art major Rim Jeonghye, this tour found me and fellow tourist Pierre, an American vacationing from teaching English in China, panting up 292 steps to Haneul Sky Park and its fabulous views of the Han River and Seoul’s towering skyline. A reclaimed landfill, the park is best known for its silver grass, which is celebrated during a festival every fall.

After working up an appetite, we headed to the extensive Mapo Agricultural and Marine Market. Pierre had heard that eating live octopus (called sannakji) is a special Korean delicacy, so Rim led us to an octopus vendor who chopped up a small octopus and doused it with sesame oil. Since the dismembered tentacles were still wiggling on the plate, I passed.

Next up was a stroll through Mangwon Market, a local, non-touristy food market with raw and prepared foods. Rim knew every stall that offered free samples, so we had our own private — and free — street food tour!

Tip: Wear layers to shed as you hike up the stairs. And come hungry!

Additional Tour Info

Other free tours offered by TodaysFriend include guided walks around Dongdaemun Culture Park, the Ikseon-dong neighborhood, and Deoksu Palace and Seoul’s City Hall.

TodaysFriend.com | Sky Park Tour | admin@todaysfriend.com

A chocolate cafe in the neighborhood of Seochon.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

2. Seochon Tour: Where Old Alleys Meet New Galleries

The City of Seoul offers 29 free walking tours conducted by trained volunteer guides featuring subjects from the healing arts to architecture. Visit palaces, gardens, traditional villages, royal tombs and more during these free two-hours tours.

I walked around Seochon, one of Seoul’s art-oriented neighborhoods, on a City of Seoul walking tour. Dotted with art galleries and trendy coffee shops, this hilly area features the Sangchonjae Hanok House, a refurbished traditional home with 19-century underfloor heating (called ondol, a feature still used today). My guide and I took a break at the base of the Suseongdong Valley before window-shopping along a boutique-lined alley.

Tip: Since these volunteer guides do not accept tips, treat them at a coffee shop. We stopped at an en-route cafe for the most sumptuous dark hot chocolate drinks!

Additional Tour Info

Reservations must be made online at least three days in advance.

VisitSeoul.net | Seochon Tour | walkingtours@sto.or.kr

Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

3. Gyeongbokgung Palace Tour

Built in 1395, the Gyeongbokgung Palace, whose name means “The Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven,” is nestled between Mount Bugaksan and Mount Namsan. Today, surrounded by high-rise office buildings, it stands as a monument to fortitude: The Palace has been destroyed and rebuilt three times.

There are many local tour companies that charge for their guided tours, but free English tours are offered at the palace three times each day at 11 a.m, 1:30 p.m., and 3:30 p.m. No reservations are necessary.

Tip: Deck yourself in hanbok (traditional Korean attire) from one of the nearby clothing rental shops and enter the palace grounds for free. Otherwise, the cost is 3,000 won (about $2.50).

Additional Tour Info

See the Gyeongbokgung Palace Management Office’s official site.

A narrow street in Bukchon.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

4. Bukchon Tour: Where History Lives

Bukchon is a well-preserved neighborhood of hanok — traditional Korean homes — that are now a network of private residences, traditional craft workshops, guesthouses, cafes, tea houses, and boutiques. The Soul Free Walking Tour starts at the Bukchon Traditional Cultural Center, which is an actual hanok with rice paper doors and underfloor heating.

As we wandered the narrow streets, my three guides stopped for a street food treat and for photo ops at spectacular views over the gracefully up-turned arched roofs. We went on to Chung-Ang University, a former kindergarten that served as a secret meeting spot for Korean dissidents during the Japanese occupation.

Finally, we stopped at the Dong-Lim Knot Workshop, where I had the option for 7,000 won ($6) to create my own bracelet using traditional garakji knots. (It’s a lot harder than it looks!)

My guides — three smart, personable students studying microbiology, international relations, and fashion design — and I were having so much fun, we lunched at a traditional Korean restaurant.

Tip: Bukchon is hilly, so be prepared to climb. Also, these guides do not accept tips, so a coffee or street treat is appreciated!

Additional Tour Info

Other free tours offered by Seoul Free Walking Tours include a political tour of the Gwanghwamun area to explore Korea under the Japanese occupation and a tour of Bongeunsa Temple to explore Korean Buddhism.

SeoulFreeWalkingTour.wixsite.com | Bukchon Tour | seoulfreewalkingtour@gmail.com

The Blue House in Seoul, South Korea.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

5. President’s Garden Tour

With at least three weeks’ notice, foreigners can schedule a tour of the Republic of South Korea’s President’s gardens outside Cheong Wa Dae, the official residency and administrative compound of the president and first lady.

Colloquially called the Blue House because of the shiny blue tiles that make up its roof, this is where cabinet meetings, receptions for state guests and diplomatic events take place. The one-hour tour covers Nokjiwon (the Green Grass Garden, which features a 170-year-old pine tree and is where public events are held), the site of the original Cheong Wa Dae building, and Yeong Bin Gwan (the State Guest House).

You must apply online and provide your passport information. Once approved, you will receive a confirmation email and code.

Tips: Remember to take your passport; you will be asked for it several times. But leave behind large bags and political leaflets. Also, read up on the Blue House before you go, as there are no live bilingual guides, although a brief English-language recorded audio guide is provided (free). I recommend listening to the audio guide before your tour (there are several minutes waiting in an auditorium before the tour starts).

Additional Tour Info

Cheong Wa Dae, President’s Residence Official Web Page | foreign@president.go.kr

The Seodaemun Prison in Seoul.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

6. Seodaemun Prison Tour

During a sobering tour offered by the university students volunteering with Seoul-Mate Tours, you can visit Seodaemun Prison. The prison was built by the Japanese during their occupation of Korea from 1910 to 1945 and was where 3,000 Korean freedom activists were tortured, imprisoned, and executed.

Four students led my tour, each explaining one section of the prison — and of Korea’s dark history under the occupation. Korean men were conscripted to serve in the Japanese Army and Korea’s women were conscripted to serve as sex slaves (or what the Japanese called “comfort women”). One of the students spoke about the experiences of her grandmother, who was forbidden from speaking Korean during the occupation and was forced to adopt a Japanese name.

Hangeul, the Korean alphabet, was outlawed, and highly educated Koreans wrote in Chinese; some of the prisoners’ Chinese-language correspondence is on display. In fact, some of the prisoners were poets who were arrested for writing in hangeul.

The tour is extensive, allowing visitors to go into isolation cells, to stand in coffin-like sensory deprivation boxes, and to enter into an execution chamber where prisoners were hung. The prison grounds also included factories where prisoners made their own uniforms and, later, supplies to support the Japanese war efforts.

Seoul-Mate offers 14 other walking tours — all less intense than this one — including walks through and around the National Hangeul Museum and the Seoul City Wall.

Tip: Again, these students do not accept tips, so treating them to coffee is not only appreciated, but a further opportunity for them to practice speaking English and for you to interact with these smart, well-traveled students.

Additional Tour Info

Seoul-Mate.com | seoulmate.rsvt@gmail.com

Gwangmyeong Cave Tour in Seoul.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

7. Gwangmyeong Cave Tour

Go underground at the Gwangmyeong Cave, a former gold mine, during one of Korean Transit Tours six walking tours for short-term visitors passing through Seoul. With a layover of up to 24 hours, you could walk off jet lag at Jeondeungsa Temple, the hip area of Insa-dong, the Triple Shopping Street, the World Cup Stadium, or one of Seoul’s food markets.

Tip: Be sure to be on time at your meeting spot, or risk paying a hefty fee for a taxi back to the airport to catch your flight!

Additional Tour Info

Airport.kr | transittour@airport.kr

Treating the tour guide to a street food snack.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

General Tips To Enhance Your Seoul Walking Tour

  1. Be on time. Other visitors may be taking the tour, too, and the guide might not be able to wait.
  2. Check your travel time on Rome2Rio. Seoul is deceptively huge and it can take an hour or longer to reach a meeting point, which is usually the specific exit of a metro stop. Be sure to head to the correct exit number, or risk being several blocks out of your way.
  3. Get the guide’s What’s App number ahead of time so you can text if you get lost — or to contact them the morning of if the weather looks dicey.
  4. Tip the guide at the end … or at least treat them to coffee or a street food treat.
  5. Be patient. Some of the guides are not professionally trained; they are students practicing their English. Help them out! Chat them up!
  6. Plan ahead. Some tours require two or three days’ notice, others a few weeks. Some tours run only on certain weekends.
  7. Contact the tour group if you need to cancel so the volunteer guide isn’t stuck waiting for a no-show.
  8. Be sure to respond if you are sent a reconfirmation email, or your reservation might get canceled.
  9. Finally, these tours really are walking tours, so limit your carrying load and wear comfy shoes and weather-appropriate clothes.

What a way to walk off all that fabulous Korean barbecue and street food!

Visiting South Korea? Read up on 7 beautiful places in Seoul, plus 13 things I wish I knew before visiting the city.

Paris: The Best Things To See And Do In Every Season

Having lived in Paris for more than five years now, I have finally graduated from being a quite knowledgeable regular visitor to someone who intimately knows the city’s seasons, its highs and lows, its scents, lights, and moods. And, believe me, Paris truly is special in every season, even during the dreaded grisaille, the gray that hangs over the city in winter with its lack of color and its cold dampness.

Be it spring, summer, fall, or winter, there is always something unique to do in Paris, with special events, activities, and treats in store. I have chosen some of my personal favorites, all tried and found fun to do and experience. I look forward to these activities each year, as they are season-specific and allow you to celebrate in style. The only difficult part is picking a favorite season!

The ice skating rink in front of the Hotel de Ville.

Mariontxa / Shutterstock

Winter

Winter in Paris has the distinct advantage of drawing fewer crowds. Yes, the Christmas markets and the January sales attract people to the city, but overall, you’ll have more space, and you can admire the architecture without any foliage in the way. Bundle up, enjoy the fresh air, pop into a cafe, and be sure to try one of the following activities.

Take To The Ice

In winter, ice rinks pop up in the most wonderful places: on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower, on the roof of the modern Grande Arche de la Defense, under the majestic roof of the Grand Palais, and in front of the Hotel de Ville. But you don’t have to skate if it’s not your thing — each location offers a cafe, a hot chocolate stand, or even a champagne bar, so you can enjoy the location, watch the skaters, and have just as good a time as they.

Go Window-Shopping

Every Christmas season, the grand department stores Printemps and Galeries Lafayette decorate their windows to tell a themed story, with little walkways provided for children so that they can see better, but just as lovely for adults. Galeries Lafayette goes one step further and puts up a gigantic Christmas tree, reaching several stories high to the top of the dome. Each year, the tree is different. There is a glass walkway above it for scary selfies, but the view from the small champagne bar on the first floor is also fabulous — especially with a flute of bubbles in your hand.

Visit A Magical Museum

Every Christmas, the Musee des Arts Forains, normally only accessible via organized tours, opens its doors to visitors. In winter, you are free to roam by yourself and admire all things fairgrounds and magic, from old carousels to secret gardens. This is a magical place that enchants the old and young alike.

Pro Tip: If you’re dreaming of a white Christmas, then go for a meal at Auteuil Brasserie. This is a former train station that served the old Petite Ceinture, and the entire brasserie is transformed every winter into a snowy wonderland complete with snowmen, reindeer, twinkling lights, and a menu that will warm you up.

Cherry blossom trees in Paris.

Vlasyuk Inna / Shutterstock

Spring

Ah, springtime in Paris — it sounds like a movie. And it truly is glorious, with the city’s 420+ parks all bursting into bloom. With the warm sunshine on your face, you won’t have a care in the world.

Marvel At The Cherry Blossoms

In April, Paris explodes into numerous shades of pink, with many parks showing off cherry trees in full bloom. The best places to go to marvel at the cherry blossoms are the tiny Square Marie Trintignant near the Marais, the even tinier Square Gabriel Pierne by the Institut Francais, the amazing Jardin de Reuilly Paul Pernin along the Coulee Verte, and the Jardin des Plantes.

Walk The Coulee Verte

To appreciate the beauty of fresh, young green leaves and spring flowers, walk the aforementioned Coulee Verte from the Bastille all the way to the Chateau de Vincennes. It’s about an hour and a half’s walk, gentle and bucolic, along another former railway line, the forerunner of New York City’s High Line. You’ll enjoy great views of Paris along the way.

Enjoy An Easter Concert At Sainte Chapelle

One of the most enchanting places in Paris, Sainte Chapelle, with its stunning stained glass windows, hosts a series of concerts over the Easter period. With music filling the chapel and the sun setting behind the windows, you can be certain of a wonderful evening in a special setting.

Pro Tip: Whether you are interested in horses or not, the spring show-jumping event Saut Hermes at the Grand Palais is a sight to behold.

Summer

Summer in Paris can be frustrating. It gets hot, most places do not have air-conditioning, and the city is crammed with tourists. In August, the city is also devoid of Parisians, which many people consider a bonus. Residents leave Paris en masse, and many restaurants and shops off the beaten track are closed for the month. So, if you walk in the more residential areas, you’ll get some peace and quiet.

Go Swimming In The Open Air

The city is aware that it can get hot, and it offers its people various ways of cooling down. Piscine Josephine Baker is a fabulous open-air pool on a boat in the Seine where you can swim, relax in the sun, and enjoy the views. The Bassin de la Villette cordons off a part of its canal, and you’ll find a sandy beach and plenty of sun loungers alongside it. Other beaches open near the Hotel de Ville. These are perfect for a taste of the Caribbean in the city.

Dine On An Island

Summer is the best time to head to the Bois de Boulogne and have lunch on a terrace that feels a million miles away from the city. The restaurant Le Chalet des Iles has its own island in the large lake in the Paris forest; you get across on a small ferry boat, and then you can roam the island and enjoy lunch in a bucolic setting, with many trees offering shade.

Parc Montsouris in Paris.
bellena / Shutterstock.com

Picnic In The Park

Paris has more than 420 parks, and the vast majority of them are lovely. But one of my favorites is the Parc Montsouris in the south of the city. Unknown to most visitors, it has it all: a lake, a pavilion, hills and valleys, plenty of art to explore, a cafe or two, and many secluded places to find some shade and enjoy a picnic. Either buy a fresh baguette and some cheese nearby, or have a picnic delivered to you in the park via a service such as Casual Picnic.

Pro Tip: Summer is the time for music festivals in Paris, and whatever gets your foot tapping — be it jazz or hip-hop, pop, or rock — there is a festival for you. The majority of the festivals take place in August. Check out the full list here.

Fall leaves in Paris.

Olga Gavrilova / Shutterstock

Fall

This is the season when the city’s trees are most beautiful. An explosion of color can be found along every street, and while the weather can be damp, walking in Paris with its lights reflected in puddles is magical.

Celebrate The Wine Harvest In Montmartre

Did you know that there are several vineyards in the city of Paris? The city hosts an entire festival celebrating the grape harvest each autumn, the Fete des Vendanges de Montmartre. All around Sacre Coeur huts spring up, each selling either wine, champagne, or food, ranging from tapas to tartiflette, sandwiches to mushroom pans. It gets quite crowded later at night, so aim to go in the early evening.

Catch An Opera Al Fresco

Each year Les Invalides, home to Napoleon’s tomb, hosts the Opera en Plein Air in its courtyard. A stage and seating are set up, champagne tents offer sustenance, and the atmosphere is fantastic. It is usually scheduled to start just before dark, so you get the sunset as well as a musical performance. It’s a really special treat.

Appreciate Contemporary Art

FIAC, the annual international contemporary arts fair, takes over Paris’s boulevards, parks, and squares each fall. Tents filled with representatives of international galleries line the Champs Elysees, the Grand Palais hosts special exhibitions, and you’ll find free art installations across the city.

Pro Tip: Every year, Paris hosts Nuit Blanche, a Saturday night when museums stay open all night. The streets are filled with art installations, food stalls, and special events, and everybody stays up until the early morning hours.

Want to enjoy more of Paris off the beaten path? Check out these hidden gems, delightful shops, surprising things to do, and lesser-known churches in the city.

7 Truly Underrated U.S. Wineries Outside Of California

California produces about 80 percent of America’s wine, so it’s no surprise that it’s a popular destination for wine lovers who want to swirl interesting reds and savor dessert wines. But sprinkled throughout the 45 contiguous states east of the West Coast are many other phenomenal wineries.

Before you set out for your next wine getaway, check out one of these truly underrated U.S. wineries outside the Golden State.

1. Cedar Ridge Winery & Distillery, Swisher, Iowa

Located about 15 minutes south of Cedar Rapids, Cedar Ridge in Swisher, Iowa, was the first licensed distillery to open in the Hawkeye State after the repeal of Prohibition. In addition to expertly converting Iowa corn into award-winning bourbon, Cedar Ridge was named the best winery in Iowa by Taste of Home in 2018.

Produced from grapes grown at the estate, Cedar Ridge wines range from fruit-flavored semisweet whites to plummy medium-bodied dry reds. Its premier wines blend Iowa grapes with California varietals to produce sparkling whites, reserve reds, and currant ports.

Pair your wine with a gourmet wood-fired pizza like the Margherita, with sliced tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and torn basil piled onto a housemade vodka marinara sauce. Or try the Three Little Pigs (because it is Iowa, after all), featuring pulled pork, diced ham, and smoked bacon bits.

2. Crossing Vineyards And Winery, Newtown, Pennsylvania

Just across the Delaware River from Trenton, New Jersey, Crossing Vineyards and Winery is named for the historic point where George Washington famously crossed the Delaware during the Revolutionary War. But more recently, the winery has been making history by bringing home Best of Bucks County awards for nearly a decade.

Crossing is led by Pennsylvania’s youngest vintner, Tom Carroll Jr., who dreamed of turning his family’s property into a winery since he was a 10-year-old boy. From a dozen varietals grown on-site, Crossing produces white, red, and specialty wines that have won medals at wine competitions from coast to coast.

3. Landon Winery, Texas

From humble beginnings in his basement in Kansas City, Bob Landon has parlayed his family’s German winemaking traditions into one of the largest wineries in Texas. Most recently, Landon Winery was recognized with several best-in-category awards at the 2019 Lone Star International Wine Competition.

Today, Landon Winery fills wine glasses with crisp pinot grigio, buttery chardonnay, luscious merlot, and velvety chocolate dessert wine at four locations in North Texas. The wines are sourced from the high Texas plains south of Lubbock (and in some cases blended with out-of-state varietals).

4. Luna Rossa Winery, New Mexico

Born and raised in Italy’s Friuli region, Paolo D’Andrea is a fourth-generation wine grower with a degree in viticulture. After proving that the New Mexico desert could produce quality wine grapes, he and his wife established Luna Rossa Winery in 2001.

Enjoy a variety of white, red, and dessert wines made from grapes grown in the family’s vineyards at one of two Luna Rossa tasting rooms, one in Deming and one in Las Cruces. At the Las Cruces tasting room just north of historic Mesilla, Luna Rossa wines are paired with authentic Italian dishes like antipasti platters, wood-fired pizzas, and saucy pasta dishes.

5. Raffaldini Vineyards & Winery, Ronda, North Carolina

In the rolling foothills of the Yadkin Valley about an hour north of Charlotte, North Carolina, Raffaldini Vineyards & Winery focuses exclusively on dry Italian wines, earning it the nickname “the Chianti of the Carolinas.”

Using estate-grown vermentino, Montepulciano, and other grapes, Raffaldini embraces the medieval Italian winemaking technique known as appassimento. Rather than stomping freshly harvested fruit, Raffaldini dries its grapes, resulting in a unique complexity and higher alcohol content.

Stone Pillar Vineyard in Kansas.

Stone Pillar Vineyard & Winery

6. Stone Pillar Vineyard & Winery, Olathe, Kansas

Long before California wines stunned the world by winning the Judgment of Paris, Kansas led the nation in wine production. But state-specific restrictions against alcohol consumption followed by the 18th Amendment all but ended Kansas’s wine production for more than a century.

Today, winemakers like Stone Pillar Vineyard & Winery in the Kansas City suburb of Olathe are once again planting grapes and producing quality wines across the Sunflower State. With an emphasis on semisweet wines like Hofftoberfest, Redneck Rose, and moscato, this family-owned winery makes its vineyard a summer destination with Friday-night concerts and food trucks.

Yellowstone Cellars and Winery in Montana.

Sage Scott

7. Yellowstone Cellars & Winery, Billings, Montana

Using grapes grown in small family-owned vineyards in Washington’s Yakima Valley, Montana winemaker Clint Peck produces a selection of about 3,700 cases of French oak barrel-aged wines in Billings with Montana-inspired names like 406 (the local area code) and Rimrock Red (the sandstone formations that rise up from the farmland in parts of Billings). Yellowstone Cellars was recently recognized as the best winery in Montana by House Beautiful.

While California’s delicious dominance of American wine production is well earned, don’t overlook a chance to swirl, sniff, and sip wines from one of these underrated wineries elsewhere in the nation.

8 Reasons To Put Hampton, Virginia On Your Bucket List

Hampton, Virginia, with its lively waterfront downtown area, live music, air and space museum, activities on the bay, and delicious seafood, is located on the Virginia Peninsula in the Hampton Roads region of southeastern Virginia. You’ll find the Chesapeake Bay to the north and east and the Hampton Roads Harbor to the south, so it’s no surprise that Hampton offers plenty of water activities and beaches.

Last spring, I spent two weeks traveling Virginia by train. My first stop was Hampton, where the city of Hampton hosted my visit.

Here are eight reasons to put this city on your bucket list.

The Emancipation Oak in Hampton.

Jill Dutton

1. It’s Steeped In History

The city of Hampton was founded in 1610 and is a true city of firsts. It was America’s first English-speaking settlement, the first place in the United States to offer free public education, and the location where NASA’s first astronauts trained.

The Hampton History Museum traces the long history of the city, from its English roots to its Native American connection to its role in the U.S. space program. After your visit, step out the back door of the museum to see Saint John’s Episcopal Church, the oldest English-founded parish in the U.S.

You can also visit Hampton University, opened in 1868 under General Samuel Chapman Armstrong, which educated freedmen and later Native Americans. Now one of the top private universities in the nation, it’s home to the Hampton University Museum and the Emancipation Oak.

The museum is the oldest museum dedicated to African-American culture and one of the oldest museums in the state of Virginia. It features traditional African, Native American, Native Hawaiian, Pacific Islander, and Asian art; there are more than 9,000 objects. The museum’s fine arts collection houses the largest existing collection of works by artists John T. Biggers, Elizabeth Catlett, Jacob Lawrence, Richmond Barthe, and Samella Lewis.

Near the entrance to the campus you’ll find the Emancipation Oak, which, in 1863, was the site of the first Southern reading of the Emancipation Proclamation, which accelerated the demand for African-American education.

The Virginia Air and Space Center.

Jill Dutton

2. It’s Home To The Virginia Air & Space Center

The Virginia Air & Space Center is the official visitor center of the NASA Langley Research Center. Visitors can explore more than 100 hands-on exhibits, including the Be An Astronaut exhibit, with its space mission simulations, and the Inflatable Lunar Habitat exhibit, where you can imagine life in a futuristic space colony. Also at the center are suspended, full-size aircraft and a 3-D IMAX theater.

Fort Monroe in Hampton, Virginia.

JoMo333 / Shutterstock

3. Its Old Fort Is Free To Visit

Fort Monroe — named for James Monroe, the fifth president of the United States — took 15 years to build, starting in 1819. It was an active fort until 2011, when it was decommissioned after 188 years and opened to the public. Now it’s a vibrant public area that’s free to visit, with an abundance of history, walking paths with stunning views, restaurants, fishing opportunities, and even its own Segway tour.

Head to the Casemate Museum at Fort Monroe for a look at life in the 1600s. Originally called Fort Algernoune, it was built in 1609 and served as a lookout point and defensive system for the Jamestown Settlement and the Hampton Roads Harbor. Fort Monroe was constructed from 1819 to 1834 and served as a Union bastion in the Confederate South during the Civil War. The museum houses the cell in which the Confederate president, Jefferson Davis, was imprisoned. It’s also home to the Old Point Comfort Lighthouse. The museum is self-guided and free to enter. For a fee you can arrange a guided tour.

The writer on a segway tour of Fort Monroe.

Jill Dutton

After visiting the museum, take a Segway tour of Fort Monroe with Patriot Tours and Provisions. During the hour-long tour, you’ll ride through the inner fort and down to the waterfront as your guide points out sites of historic significance. If Segways aren’t your preferred method of transportation, Patriot Tours and Provisions also rents bicycles, kayaks, and paddleboards, plus a selection of kites and beach supplies.

I was a little nervous trying a Segway for the first time, but the lessons I received beforehand and the assistance of the guide put me at ease. It was an exhilarating way to view the beautiful setting of the fort. Be sure to put on sunscreen before heading out.

4. Its Phoebus Neighborhood Is Charming

In Hampton, you can experience the charming neighborhood of Phoebus, known for its architecture, art, shopping, and unique dining options.

The owners of Mango Mangeaux, a vibrant mango-themed restaurant, started out making their own preserves to sell at farmers markets. Their preserves were featured on ABC’s Shark Tank. While they didn’t partner with a Shark, the Sharks loved the mango preserves, and they received 15,000 orders in 48 hours, equalling nearly 100,000 jars of preserves. Now the owners sell their preserves at their French, Creole, and neo-soul bistro in Phoebus.

Hampton’s premier farm-to-table restaurant, The Point, serves seafood and Southern favorites. The locally sourced foods are made from scratch in-house. My favorite is the fried chicken. If you like sweet and savory foods, try Rosemary’s Chicken & Waffles, or for a traditional chicken dinner, try the Chicken-Fried Goodness with buttermilk-fried chicken breast, mashed potatoes, sausage gravy, and collard greens.

Phoebus is a National Historic District with 400 years of history. Stop by Benders Books and Cards, a comic book and collectibles shop; Robert’s Antiques, which has been selling quality antiques since 1969; and the American Theatre adjoining the Charles Taylor Visual Arts Center.

5. You Can Take A Tour Of The Harbor And Chesapeake Bay

At the Hampton Maritime Center, you can check in for a cruise on the Miss Hampton II. This double-decker boat offers daily narrated cruises of the Hampton Roads Harbor and Chesapeake Bay. On the tour, you’ll see fishing boats and commercial cargo ships, plus sites like Blackbeard’s Point, the Old Point Comfort Lighthouse, and the world’s largest naval installation, the Naval Station Norfolk.

6. It’s Got A Vibrant Downtown Area

Take a ride on the Hampton Carousel, one of only 70 antique wooden merry-go-rounds still operating in the U.S. The carousel, open year-round, is completely restored and safe from the elements inside a protected pavilion.

Head to Queens Way downtown for lunch or dinner at Brown Chicken Brown Cow, a hip spot for grass-fed and finished burgers and barbecue. Order one of the premium floats made from local antibiotic- and hormone-free milk; you can get them either “wholesome” — with strawberry or chocolate milk, root beer, or soda — or “boozy” — with a hard soda or mixed up as a Mudslide, Creamsicle, or Cinnamon Toast. There’s live music on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday nights.

Another great spot is The Grey Goose. Start with Southern pulled-pork nachos, and then move on to hearty comfort dishes like Yankee pot roast or fried Rappahannock River catfish. The restaurant is known for its baked goods and popular dinner shows.

If you visit during the summer months, you can enjoy the Downtown Hampton Block Party, Hampton’s signature summer Saturday-night event series.

7. You Can Sample Fresh Seafood

Considering Hampton’s location, it’s no surprise that the coastal city’s seafood restaurants don’t disappoint.

Deadrise at Old Point Comfort Marina serves up fresh catches with unrivaled views. Dinner at sunset on the deck is simply divine.

At Graham & Rollins, a family-owned company since 1942, you can buy a fresh catch at the market or step next door to the restaurant. Enjoy she-crab soup for a starter, and then choose your type of fish, crab, or shellfish served with hush puppies and two sides.

8. There Are Festivals All Year Long

Hampton hosts festivals all year long. The Hampton Jazz Festival in June and the Coastal Virginia Bluegrass & Brew Festival in January draw big crowds, but there’s nothing quite as unique and fun as the Blackbeard Pirate Festival, when Hampton is overtaken by pirates. Pirate reenactors in full costume take you back in time to the busy port of times past. Blackbeard himself is there, as well as other legends of 1718 Hampton.

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