What Traveling Alone With My Kids Taught Me About Parenting

They say you are the average of the five people you hang out with most. Growing up, that meant I was my parents and my sister. We were a close-knit middle-class family living in the crazy, chaotic city of Mumbai, India. My dad worked in the city, which on any given day would be an average commute of 1.5 hours each way from home. My mom worked in the opposite direction and had a similar commute.

Needless to say, travel was not something that either of them wanted to do with any frequency. In fact, sleep and rest were highly valued commodities in our household. Fast forward many decades later and I found myself married to someone who was the complete opposite of me. My husband introduced me to this crazy thing called travel. You pack your bags, your family, and just hit the road. Or get to the airport and fly off to places you didn’t even know existed. I camped for the first time when I was 26 and it was as if I had entered a magical new world only found in REI and L.L. Bean catalogs.

Pretty soon the kids came along and, sure enough, our travels only increased. Diaper bags, screaming babies, car camping, and long-haul flights all became second nature. I often joke with my husband, asking him what he has done to make this Karthika so different from the Karthika of my youth.

But travel for me had always been in a group, either with my husband or his extended family who are just as crazy about adventure as he is. Sure, I have traveled back home to my parents’ place, but that typically means only handling my kids for the duration of the 22-hours it takes to fly halfway around the world. In most instances, many pairs of helping hands are waiting for me at the airport and the handoff of the grandkids to the grandparents is a comical and welcome sight.

This past summer I was presented with the travel opportunity of a lifetime, but the problem was I had my kids with me for the entire summer. I had always wanted to visit Australia; it was one of those bucket-list journeys, and my husband also had some work to do in Sydney.

The plan was that the kids and I would travel first to Melbourne, hang out there for a few days, then meet dad over in Sydney. Not a bad deal, right? Unfortunately, as is common with corporate jobs, things changed last minute and my husband’s project in Sydney fell through. Of course, three tickets were already booked and could not be canceled during the peak summer travel months. So, with a heavy heart (yes, I know I might be overdramatizing here) I agreed to travel alone with my children to Australia for more than six weeks.

Exploring downtown Melbourne, Australia. — Karthika Gupta

Now before you get the wrong idea — or think of me as being a really bad parent, which I hope I am not — let me just lay down some facts: My kids were 13 and 10 at this point in time. Yes, dealing with a teen is a challenge in itself. Add a rambunctious 10-year-old to the mix and trouble is brewing. Little did I know I would be mom, referee, punching bag, chauffeur, ticket agent, shopping assistant, chef, storyteller, and more all rolled into one for such an extended period of time in a place that was completely new and unfamiliar.

In the end, though this trip surpassed all my expectations and there are so many wonderful (and a few not-so-wonderful lessons) to be learned when traveling with your children. I wouldn’t trade in this experience for the world. Here’s what I learned.

1. Multitasking Is A Beautiful Thing

Moms are known to be great at multitasking, right? You know the ads that we see where they are holding a baby in one hand, making breakfast, packing lunches, folding laundry, and many other things in between? Well, I was never any good with that! I always burned breakfast and missed packing essentials in the lunch boxes. I quickly realized how important multitasking is, especially when you are traveling alone with your kids. I worked hard on my multitasking skills. Pretty soon I was arranging breakfast, mapping our day’s activities, and looking for good deals on things like museum tickets, whale watching trips, and even a concert at Sydney’s opera house.

2. Downtime Is Very Underrated

In the past, all our family trips were jam packed with activities. There was always so much to do but not enough time, no matter where we went. Of course, this was when I had a co-parent, not when I was flying solo. Pretty soon I realized that downtime is very important, not just for the kids but for this tired mom as well.

Travel, especially to a country like Australia, can be such a sensory overload — in sights, sounds, smells, and adorable koala bears. Having a lot of downtime built in ensured we enjoyed all the things we experienced. We may have not seen everything that there is to see in Australia, but the places we did visit, we gave our full attention.

3. Kids Of All Ages Can Be Given Responsibilities

There are a lot of things this trip taught me. But perhaps the best thing I learned was that my kids — both my teen and my tween — were really responsible. I gave them small things to do like collecting brochures from places we wanted to visit, figuring out the schedule for the day, and finding good places to eat. I started small but slowly increased the kind of responsibility I gave my teen. I found that her confidence improved day by day and she took her job of taking care of her mom and brother very seriously. And the people she interacted with also treated her with respect. They asked questions and she was able to have meaningful conversations with adults from outside her family.

A people dancer ceremony in Caines, Australia. — Karthika Gupta

It has been about three months since we got back from Australia, but I have to tell you, my kids and I still talk about the trip every chance we get. It is something we have very fond memories of — not only the things we saw and experienced but also the memories we made. Time really does fly by when you are having fun. This is something I kept telling myself over and over again throughout the trip.

Initially I couldn’t wait for the trip to be over. Planning logistics, planning meals, planning activities: It was quite a handful. I would get tired before breakfast was even over. My mantra was “It will be over before you know it.” But as the trip progressed, I started to realize this statement was actually sad. I adopted a different approach and focused less on the planning and more on enjoying my time with my kids. The moral of my story is this: No matter what you are doing, enjoy the time with your kids whenever you travel together.

Planning a multigenerational trip? Here are tips for overcoming the challenges of multigenerational family travel!

Fantastic Places To Stay In Charleston, South Carolina

As a popular tourist destination known for its colorful antebellum homes, delicious food, and low-country charm, Charleston, South Carolina, sees its fair share of visitors each year. And those millions of travelers need somewhere to lay their heads. Luckily, we’ve discovered some of the best places to stay in the Holy City, from hotels and home rentals to bed and breakfasts and everything in between.

Here are some fantastic places to stay in Charleston.

Hotels

We’ll start with the hotels. Charleston is famous for its Southern hospitality, and a number of its upscale hotel properties stand out.

Zero George

This luxe boutique hotel, located on the peninsula in the heart of the city, is a sure winner on the Charleston hotel scene. Named for its street address, Zero George is ensconced within renovated historic homes and features 16 beautifully appointed guest rooms. The property is home to a renowned cocktail bar and restaurant, and it even has its own on-site cooking school that regularly hosts wine tastings. Guests looking for a good deal should be sure to check out the special offers section of the hotel’s website and plan to travel during the off-season.

Belmond Charleston Place

The Belmond hotel group, a luxury operator, runs a lovely outpost in Charleston. Belmond Charleston Place downtown is a great fit for those seeking both a relaxing and active stay. The property boasts a large pool and deck, a fitness center, multiple eateries and bars, and a full-service spa. It is within walking distance of many popular tourist attractions, including Rainbow Row and the famous pineapple fountain, and it’s also close to numerous watering holes and restaurants. Many rooms include Juliet balconies and spectacular city views.

The Spectator Hotel

For a fancy stay complete with 1920s glamour, visitors to the Holy City should check out the sleek Spectator Hotel. After all, it’s the only spot in Charleston with a personal butler option for each guest. Mixology enthusiasts and bibliophiles alike will enjoy the speakeasy-meets-library vibe of the on-site Spectator Pub. And tourists can expect a gourmet continental breakfast delivered to their room each morning. The Spectator Hotel offers complimentary bike rentals on a first-come, first-served basis. Plus, the staff can arrange a private car service for guests who’d rather not use ride-sharing apps like Lyft or Uber.

The Mills House

This bright pink hotel, a Wyndham Grand property, is conveniently located downtown near numerous popular attractions. In fact, The Mills House is right across the street from Husk, the acclaimed Southern comfort-food restaurant. Guests can enjoy complimentary champagne in the lobby as well as a hand-delivered paper brought to their room each day. Valet parking is available on-site as well for $39 per day. That way, visitors can explore the Holy City on foot, the way it was meant to be seen.

Vacation Rentals

Travelers wanting a homier feel can rent an apartment, house, or cottage in Charleston. Home- and room-rental services like Airbnb and VRBO provide extra flexibility for everything from multigenerational vacations to romantic getaways for two. Plus, they offer some truly unique lodging experiences.

Here are a few of our favorite Charleston vacation rentals.

Inside the A Pirate's Life For Me Houseboat listing. — Airbnb

Airbnb: A Pirate’s Life For Me Houseboat

Perhaps the most fun lodging option on this list, this houseboat combines water views, charming decor, and a great mid-peninsula location. Guests can park for free at the marina, about 50 yards away. There are carts available for easy transport of luggage to the houseboat. Visitors can expect calm waters in the harbor to lull them to sleep, occasional dolphin sightings, and a full-size bathroom with a large water heater. There’s a queen bed in the bedroom as well as a twin bed in the main living space. A full galley kitchen is also onboard, which would be perfect for longer stays. Bikes are accessible on the dock for visitors to tour the city of Charleston on wheels.

Airbnb Plus: Serene Cottage

The Airbnb Plus distinction recognizes listings with “exceptional quality, comfort, and style,” and this charming cottage certainly delivers. Complete with a lovely garden and heated saltwater pool, the rental accommodates four guests. The cottage is fully updated, including the two bathrooms and the large kitchen. The large yard allows visitors to enjoy the fresh sea air, fragrant plants, and warm sunshine in the Cannonborough-Elliotborough neighborhood. Extra amenities include free parking on-site, a self-check-in process, a Roku TV, a washer and dryer, free Wi-Fi, and more.

Inside the Downtown Luxury Home listing. — Airbnb

Airbnb: Downtown Luxury Home

This entire house, located near Upper King Street in downtown Charleston, can be rented for a large group getaway. It features three bedrooms and three bathrooms plus a private driveway with room for two cars to park (for free!). The bedrooms also include a blow-up queen mattress and a twin rollaway bed. Ample outdoor entertaining space helps guests enjoy the city even more, and three porches are available for guests to use. That’s one for every level of this home! The spacious kitchen is equipped with a Keurig coffee machine to satisfy caffeine cravings, and the living room is designer appointed.

Airbnb Plus: The Cedar House

This cute rental would be the perfect fit for anyone looking to lessen their carbon footprint. With a fully functional kitchen including a gas range and French press, this tiny house packs a culinary punch. Plus, the hosts are very helpful and provide local tips to make sure your Charleston experience is the best it can be. They even provide bikes for visitors to use to explore the city and peninsula. Free parking is available on-site, and there is a private outdoor entertaining space with a hammock. Please note that the loft bedroom is accessed via a ladder, so this listing may not be a good fit for travelers with mobility issues.

VRBO: Isle Of Palms Getaway

For those seeking some beach time during their Charleston vacation, a private home on the picturesque Isle of Palms is a great option. This property boasts five bedrooms and four bathrooms and can sleep up to 14 travelers. With its newly renovated pool and easy access to the beach, this spot simply can’t be beat. Coastal chic decor makes the space extra inviting, while a large gathering space and farmhouse table provide home entertaining options. The Isle of Palms is just a 30-minute drive from Charleston itself, so visitors can still enjoy the city’s amenities.

VRBO: Historic House In The French Quarter

Another great downtown location for Charleston newbies, this home comfortably sleeps six guests in its three bedrooms. A spiral staircase, exposed reclaimed wooden beams, and exposed brick walls only add to its charm. Visitors have the house to themselves, complete with an off-street parking space. Plus, this rental currently has a stellar rating, 4.9 stars out of a possible 5. Check out this dreamy property for yourself to see if it’s worthy of the hype!

Inns And Bed And Breakfasts

In any historic city, you’ll find a number of extra-charming inns and bed and breakfasts. Charleston, the South’s favorite city, is no exception. Consider the following properties on your next visit to the area.

21 East Battery Bed & Breakfast

This bed and breakfast is located in one of the first homes to be built on the waterfront Battery in Charleston. Guests get a free tour of the home plus the museum, known as the Edmondston-Alston House. You will be warmly greeted by the on-site manager and can expect a stocked kitchen full of breakfast goodies to start your day off right. For an additional fee, a deluxe or made-to-order breakfast can be arranged. Off-street parking and a private courtyard round out these historic and luxurious digs.

John Rutledge House Inn

History buffs will especially enjoy the John Rutledge House Inn. This spot was built in 1673 by its namesake, John Rutledge, who was a signer of the Constitution. In fact, it’s the only home of a Constitution signatory that allows guests to stay overnight. With its location on the popular Broad Street, the inn provides a great home base for exploring the city, but it remains a serene urban oasis. Both afternoon tea and breakfast are provided.

Clearly there is no shortage of wonderful places to stay on a jaunt to Charleston. From historic inns to rental homes to houseboats, the Holy City has so much to offer visitors in terms of lodging.

Planning a trip to Charleston? Don’t miss the city’s best waterfront restaurants. And when you’re ready to explore beyond the Holy City, check out some of these day-trip options.

8 Fascinating Facts About Petra, Jordan

Fans of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade will remember the pivotal scene at the end of the movie when the elder Jones and his son stumble upon the lost city of Petra, the formidable and mysterious resting place of the Holy Grail.

To call Petra a wonder is a gross understatement. This rose-colored city carved into a sheer cliff face is a masterpiece of ancient ingenuity and skill. It was rediscovered in 1812 by John Lewis Burckhardt and has since become a wildly popular tourist destination for those who want a firsthand encounter with this preserved ancient city.

Here are eight fascinating facts that will make you want to pack your bags and head to this astonishing Jordanian treasure.

The treasury/mausoleum of Al Khazneh in Petra. — Truba7113 / Shutterstock

1. It’s A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Petra is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site that has “outstanding universal value” due to its functionality, preservation, and architecture. Its location in the desert means that the original inhabitants needed to creatively devise ways to get water and other resources to the city.

This resourcefulness, coupled with Petra’s sheer size and beauty, makes it one of the most cherished UNESCO sites in the entire world.

Old tombs inside the Silk Cave in Petra, Jordan. — S Kiran Krishanan / Shutterstock

2. The Famous Treasury Is Actually A Graveyard

Despite what you’ve seen on the silver screen, Petra’s Treasury is not a looming maze of booby-trapped rooms designed to separate the righteous from the unworthy, but a relatively small area that is most likely a beautifully decorated graveyard.

Any buried treasure was likely removed long ago, but the Treasury facade itself is a gem, lovingly carved by the Nabataeans centuries ago.

Old rock house formations in Petra, Jordan. — Ralf Siemieniec / Shutterstock

3. It’s Home To More Than 1,000 Tombs

The Nabataeans held their dead in high esteem and took special care to honor them as they passed from this world to the next. They built more than 1,000 protected tombs on the mountains in and around the city.

These tombs mingle with depictions of their gods, lending an air of fluidity between the sacred and earthly.

Sun shining down on ruins in Petra, Jordan. — LapaiIrKrapai / Shutterstock

4. It Honors The Sun

Like many peoples of the time, the Nabataeans worshiped the sun as a source of light and life, and Petra’s design reflects that reverence. Many of the city’s most sacred spaces are constructed to align with solar patterns, including solstices.

This careful design gives modern scientists and archeologists valuable insight into what the Nabataeans held dear, and exactly how special Petra must have been.

A tour guide in Petra, Jordan. — Boris Stroujko / Shutterstock

5. Some Of The Descendants Of The Nabataeans Still Call It Home

The B’doul tribe claims that it can trace its lineage back to the original Nabataeans, and some members still live in and around the remains of Petra. Today, many from the B’doul and other Bedouin tribes work as tour guides.

6. It Was Destroyed By A Massive Earthquake

In A.D. 363, Petra was struck by a gigantic earthquake that leveled most of the city and ended its reign as a thriving and wealthy trading center. After the disaster, many residents of Petra left the area, and the city was lost to the ages.

A stream of water near Petra, Jordan. — Iuliia Khabibullina / Shutterstock

7. It’s Near A Famous Biblical Site

According to the Bible, Moses drew water from a stone in Wadi Musa, or the Valley of Moses. Petra’s water supply was derived from this location, which, according to Biblical tradition, continued to gush water after Moses’s miraculous act.

Although the architects of Petra were not Christian, the ancient city’s proximity to Wadi Musa makes it an intriguing pilgrimage site for Christians.

8. It’s One Of The New 7 Wonders Of The World

Petra is classified as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, along with the spectacular Incan city of Machu Picchu, India’s Taj Mahal, the Roman Colosseum, Mexico’s Chichén Itzá, the Great Wall of China, and Brazil’s Christ the Redeemer statue.

View of Al Khazneh in Petra, Jordan. — tenkl / Shutterstock

What To Know Before You Go

Petra is sweltering during the summer months, so plan your trip for late spring or early autumn. Unfortunately, the majority of the ancient city is not wheelchair accessible, and no cars are allowed near the ruins. You have the option of traveling by donkey, horse, or camel.

Bring plenty of sunblock, water, and comfortable shoes, as well as a light scarf to cover up your shoulders when accessing sacred areas.

Petra is a magical place steeped in history and culture, and it should most certainly be on your bucket list.

Planning a trip to Jordan? Check out these off-the-beaten-path spots in the country.

11 Fast Facts About Godafoss: Iceland’s Mythic Waterfall

In the Northeastern region of Iceland, the Skjalfandafljot River takes a tumble. A nearly 40-foot drop along a curved lip, almost 100 feet long, creates what might well be the most spectacular waterfall in the whole world. This is Godafoss, the Waterfall of the Gods, and it’s the high point of many Icelandic vacations.

Here are a few interesting things about Godafoss to keep in mind.

Godafoss waterfall in Iceland. — Vadym Lavra / Shutterstock

1. It’s One Of The Main Stops Along The Country’s Greatest Road Trip Route

Maybe the best way to experience Iceland is with an epic road trip. If that’s your plan, get ready for the Ring Road, otherwise known as Highway 1. This 800-mile adventure circles the coast of the island nation — and Godafoss is one of its major stopping points.

The Waterfall of the Gods is located in North Iceland, just off Highway 1, between Akureyri and Myvatn. You can reach it via a brief trip down the driving route known as the Diamond Circle.

2. It’s Shaped Like A Horseshoe

Think of a waterfall and you probably imagine a single stream of water, as if a river suddenly fell off a cliff. Indeed, that is how most waterfalls look. Godafoss is different, though; it’s not a single stream of water descending down a cliffside. Instead, it tumbles down a hollowed-out half-circle.

Yes, this massive waterfall is curved. Viewed from afar, it takes the shape of a 370-foot-wide semicircle. You can access both sides of the falls year-round for spectacular views. In fact, Godafoss’s unique shape is a big part of its extraordinary beauty.

Skjalfandafljot River in Iclenad. — Wirestock Images / Shutterstock

3. It’s Part Of A Pretty Impressive River

Godafoss’s water comes from the Skjalfandafljot River, which is the fourth-longest river in Iceland. This spectacular waterway is fed by the Vatnajokull Glacier, which is itself Europe’s largest glacier. The river runs through the Bardardalshraun lava field before reaching the jagged falls.

4. It’s Known As The Waterfall Of The Gods

That nickname comes from the waterfall’s colorful history: In the year 1000, a politician named Thorgeir Ljosvetningagodi declared Christianity the official religion of Iceland. To show his devotion, he threw his statues of Norse pagan gods into the waterfall.

The Northern Lights over Godafoss. — mtp26 / Shutterstock

5. It’s A Great Place To Experience The Northern Lights

What’s an Icelandic vacation without an aurora borealis sighting? Aurora season lasts from mid-August to mid-April, but for the best possible chances of a Northern Lights photo-op, travelers should plan their trips between October and March. Godafoss is open year-round, and winter visitors can often experience stunning views of the falls covered in snow and ice.

6. The West Side Offers The Easiest Access

Visitors can park right next to the falls and see all three sections of Godafoss. There is, of course, a downside: Most tourists visit the west side, so if you’re hoping to avoid the crowds, you’ll want to approach the falls from the east.

7. The East Side Has Its Advantages, Too

While the east side parking area is significantly smaller, it offers access to a unique hiking trail. Take the trail to reach two vantage points that offer serene views of Godafoss that aren’t accessible from the west side. Note: The trail is small and can be quite slippery, so be careful.

8. Amenities Aren’t Too Far Away

On the east side of the falls, you’ll find a fuel station, cafe, and the Fossholl Guesthouse. If you’re looking for more rustic accommodations, there’s also a campsite across from the falls.

Godafoss waterfall in Iceland during the winter. — Ghing / Shutterstock

9. A Visit To Godafoss Requires A Bit Of Preparation

The closer you get to Godafoss, the more spray you’re going to encounter. After all, this is a waterfall we’re talking about. In order to enjoy the place’s natural beauty without shivering in wet clothes, be sure to come prepared with waterproof shoes and jackets to help keep you comfortable and dry.

Iceland is known for having cold summers and even colder winters, so the right gear is essential, no matter where you stay.

10. Godafoss Is Surrounded By Must-see Rock Formations

Godafoss isn’t the only natural feature to check out during your visit. The waterfall is just part of the 7,000-year-old Bardardalshraun lava field, which features incredible natural formations you won’t see anywhere else in the world. In fact, the field’s iconic black basalt formations adorn the base of the falls, creating an almost unbelievable landscape.

Geitafoss waterfall near Godafoss in Iceland. — Vadym Lavra / Shutterstock

11. There’s Another Waterfall Nearby

After visiting Godafoss, walk back toward the official parking area on the west side and across a small bridge to find Geitafoss. Tourists often miss Geitafoss, which is 18-feet tall and about 55-feet wide. It’s not nearly as impressive as Godafoss, but it’s still worth checking out if you’ve got the time.

Vacationing in Iceland? Here’s how to visit the Blue Lagoon.

The Best Things To See And Do On Washington’s Whidbey Island

Northwest Washington is known for its beautiful Puget Sound. This estuary, or body of water where rivers meet the sea, is a massive network of rivers, bays, and islands. The area is home to major cities like Seattle and Tacoma, small harbor towns like Gig Harbor and Bremerton, and everything in between. Perhaps the best-kept secret of all the 15 major islands of Puget Sound, however, is Whidbey Island.

Located only 25 miles northwest of Seattle across Puget Sound, Whidbey Island is a long linear island that stretches for nearly 50 miles. From the south end of the island, you can see parts of Seattle across the water. From the north end of the island, you can see the San Juan Islands and dozens of whale-watching boats crisscrossing the adjacent straits and sounds.

Here are some of the best things to do when visiting Whidbey Island.

A ferry off the coast of Whidbey Island. — WhidbeyIsland.us

Take The Ferry

While it’s possible to get to Whidbey Island by car by taking the Swinomish Channel Bridge to Fidalgo Island and then the Deception Pass Bridge to Whidbey Island, the absolute best way to get to the island is by ferry. That’s how my wife and I chose to travel to Whidbey.

There are several ways to do this. If you’re coming from Seattle, the quickest way to get to Whidbey Island is to take the Clinton-Mukilteo Ferry. This ferry takes you across the shortest passage from the mainland to the island. You’ll see lots of birds — and maybe even some sea life — on the 20-minute ferry ride.

My wife and I had all day to get to the island and nothing on our schedule, so we decided to take the most scenic route possible. Leaving Seattle, we went south (in the opposite direction of the island), drove across the Tacoma Narrows Bridge to the western side of Puget Sound, stopped for lunch in Gig Harbor, and then drove an hour north though many quaint harbor towns to the town of Port Townsend. From Port Townsend, we took the Port Townsend-Coupeville Ferry to Whidbey Island. This ferry ride is about twice as long as the Clinton-Mukilteo Ferry, but it’s also twice as scenic.

All told, we turned a 90-minute trip from Seattle to Whidbey Island into a 3-hour-and-30-minute adventure. But that was the point. The drive from the Tacoma Narrows Bridge to Port Townsend was the perfect precursor to our trip to Whidbey Island, and the ferry ride from Port Townsend to Whidbey was sublime.

Explore Oak Harbor

Whidbey Island can best be described as a collection of several small harbor towns. There is a naval air station on Whidbey Island approximately 3 miles north of Oak Harbor as well as some naval facilities in Oak Harbor itself, so the harbor can be quite active.

My wife and I found one trail that allowed us to see everything. We were up for a morning walk, so we got our coffee and headed for Windjammer Park near our hotel. There we discovered a walking trail that wound around the entire comma-shaped harbor. It ended at a point across the harbor that offered incredible views of the town. We saw sailboats moored in the harbor, the entire downtown — it was quite the view. All told, it was a 4-mile walk there and back, but the views were certainly worth the trek. My wife captured this photo of all the sailboat masts in the harbor:

Boats in the harbor on Whidbey Island. — Robert Rosenthal

The path provides a great introduction to the island, since on it, you’ll see most of what Whidbey has to offer, including the shops in downtown Oak Harbor and the public park right on the harbor. As you round the corner toward the end of the trail, be sure to look off to the east for a great view of Mount Baker, an active stratovolcano that’s covered with snow all year long.

If you’re not feeling up for that much exercise, you don’t have to walk the full 4 miles. Since it’s an out-and-back trail, it can be shortened to any distance you’d like.

Whales at Deception Pass. — Deception Pass Tours

Take A Whale-Watching Tour

While the San Juan Islands are perhaps the best-known spots for whale watching in Puget Sound, Whidbey Island offers many whale-watching tours as well. The tours vary depending on the time of year. Here are some tips for whale watching in the area.

If you hope to spot a gray whale, you’ll only be able to do so in March and April. Given that this is the off-season, tours are typically limited to the weekends.

Summertime is when the majority of the whale-watching tours take place. This is when the salmon runs, which bring the whales to Puget Sound, are happening. Minke whales, humpback whales, and orcas are all visible on these tours. Most tours on Whidbey Island take place in and around Deception Pass, the narrow, 450-foot-wide pass from the Salish Sea into Skagit Bay.

Even if your visit to Whidbey Island doesn’t coincide with any whale-watching tours, there are still ways to get out on the water. Deception Pass Tours offers an hour-long tour of Deception Pass on a whale-watching boat. During these times, the area is not devoid of sea life — on your tour you might see seals, porpoises, and perhaps even a bald eagle.

The Deception Pass Bridge to Fidalgo Island. — Edmund Lowe Photography / Shutterstock

Watch The Sunset From Washington Park

Okay, so I’m cheating a little, since Washington Park isn’t technically on Whidbey Island. Once you cross the narrow Deception Pass Bridge, you’re on Fidalgo Island. But the two islands function as one, much like Martha’s Vineyard and Chappaquiddick Island — so much so that it wasn’t until returning to the mainland that my wife and I learned that we had left Whidbey Island.

The main attraction on Fidalgo is the sunset in Washington Park. I can honestly say that it’s the most amazing sunset I’ve seen in my life. From the town of Anacortes, head west on Highway 20 toward the ferries and then turn off onto the aptly named Sunset Avenue. This will take you directly to the entrance of the park.

At the entrance of the park, you’ll see that the road around the park is a single one-way loop. Follow the loop road until you see Puget Sound. Park in one of the parking spaces and take a quick walk to one of the viewing points overlooking the water.

What will you see? Lots of boats, the San Juan Islands in the distance, and, if the weather is right, a sunset over the San Juan Islands like this one:

Eating On Whidbey Island

My wife and I spent three full days on Whidbey Island and ate at all kinds of restaurants. There are many seafood restaurants, of course, but there are also several other dining options.

These were some of our favorites.

Front Street Grill

Coupeville is the county seat for Island County, which includes Whidbey Island. It’s a small harbor town right on Penn Cove, a large body of water tucked into Whidbey Island. If you’re looking for waterfront dining in Coupeville, consider Front Street Grill.

The dining room has views of Penn Cove and the historic Coupeville Wharf that extends out into the cove. If you look off into the distance, you’ll see the snow-capped peaks of Mount Baker.

Front Street Grill has seafood, of course, and it’s fresh from Penn Cove. Penn Cove is the largest mussel farm in the United States, so you must try the mussels when you’re in Coupeville. At Front Street Grill, they’re served 12 different ways! Saffron mussels, coconut curry mussels, bourbon cream mussels, and Thai peanut mussels are just a few of the inventive varieties on the menu.

Frasers Gourmet Hideaway

Frasers Gourmet Hideaway is indeed hidden away on a side street in Oak Harbor. And it’s located in what appears to be an old home, so it doesn’t stick out as a restaurant at first. But once you are inside, you’ll see why the word gourmet is in the title as well.

Frasers Gourmet Hideaway offers daily specials, and we were fortunate to be there on a day one of its most popular specials was on the menu: the crab-cake risotto. But that wasn’t the only winner.

If you weren’t able to try mussels anywhere else on the island, try the Caesar salad with smoked mussels at Frasers. For the main course, Frasers serves everything from chicken and waffles to duck breast to seafood fettuccine made with crab claws, scallops, shrimp, and — of course — mussels.

Adrift Restaurant

Technically, Anacortes is on Fidalgo Island. But a meal at Adrift Restaurant is certainly worth the journey across the Deception Pass Bridge, especially if you go there for breakfast. Adrift offers the standard breakfast fare — eggs Benedict, biscuits and gravy, and pancakes — but also some fantastic local options you have to try.

The restaurant’s breakfast tacos are to die for. Made with two grilled corn tortillas and scrambled eggs, they are topped with avocado (lots of avocado), chipotle sour cream, and roasted tomatillo salsa. You can get them with bacon or roasted pork.

Adrift is also known for its “Veggie Starts” breakfast. You “start” with roasted potatoes sautéed with a medley of vegetables and topped with mozzarella and Provolone cheese, and then you add whatever protein you want: bacon, roasted pork, tofu, or Italian sausage. Top it off with an organic egg, and you’ll have the perfect breakfast.

Eating Local In Portland, Oregon: 9 Great Restaurants To Visit

Situated on the Columbia River in the Willamette Valley, Portland is Oregon’s most populous city. In recent years, the city has gone through an enormous growth spurt, drawing people to the Pacific Northwest from all across the country. Now, as the 25th-largest city in the United States, Portland is known for its eccentric charm — and a world-class food scene.

Of course, no one knows the city’s food culture better than the locals, so forget about the familiar, nationwide chains and keep reading. Here are some of the best restaurants to check out when you’re in the mood to eat like a local Portlandian.

Food from Matt's BBQ. — fivetonine / Shutterstock

1. Matt’s BBQ (And Matt’s BBQ Tacos)

Portland typically isn’t known for its barbecue, but Matt Vicedomini has been blowing patrons away with his Texas-style white-oak smoked ribs, beef brisket, and jalapeno-cheddar sausages since 2015. Vicedomini’s restaurant is actually a food truck, but it remains rooted in place, dishing out deliciousness daily. Just ask Guy Fieri!

Vicedomini has also branched out into the world of tacos, opening a second location (Matt’s BBQ Tacos, also technically mobile but typically still) and offering some of the best Tex-Mex tortilla creations the city has to offer. All tortillas at the taco cart are pressed and made to order, and you’ll have your pick of migas, pulled pork, pork belly, jalapeno sausage, brisket, portobello mushrooms, or even breakfast tacos (if you get there early enough). If you’re looking for a delicious-yet-casual meal, either of Matt’s BBQ carts are winners.

The original fixed-location food truck can be found at 4233 N Mississippi Avenue on the corner near Prost Marketplace. Food is available every day from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. or until items are sold out. Matt’s BBQ Tacos cart can be found at 3207 Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard and is open Wednesday through Sunday from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. or until the food is gone!

2. The Daily Feast

This old-school-meets-new-school diner sits just north of downtown Portland. Here you can find classic American, made-from-scratch dishes with a modern healthy twist that won’t drain your wallet. The Daily Feast is located in the space that was occupied by Leo’s Non-Smoking Diner, a Portland institution, for 30 years. You can still enjoy the horseshoe counter, swivel chairs, and vinyl booths today, although a slightly modernized flare marks the transition from one eatery to the next.

There are plenty of choices for meat eaters as well as vegetarians and vegans. Be sure to try the breakfast burrito, smoked salmon scramble, or a bagel from beloved local Bowery Bagels. If you’re looking for lighter fare, there are also porridge bowls, a grain-based power bowl, and plenty of salads to choose from. When you’re thirsty, we recommend the local Spella coffee or a glass of freshly squeezed orange or grapefruit juice.

The diner is located in the historic Medical Dental Building at 837 SW 11th Avenue and is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

3. Dan And Louis Oyster Bar

For generations, the Wachsmuth family has been shucking oysters for patrons on Old Town’s Ankeny Street. Dan and Louis Oyster Bar has been in operation since 1907, when it began in a humble storefront. Now, 100 years later, it’s the oldest family-owned restaurant in Portland.

Here you can enjoy some of the best seafood in town. Think signature clam chowder and freshly shucked Northwest oysters on the half shell. The nautical-themed eatery is perfect for enjoying an intimate dinner and drinks with a friend (try the Bloody Mary), or bring the whole family in for a seafood extravaganza. Looking for a deal? Every Monday and Tuesday all oysters are happy hour price for the entire day.

Dan and Louis Oyster Bar is located at 208 SW Ankeny Street and is open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.

4. Fried Egg I’m In Love

If you’re looking for a pun-tastic, egg-ceptional restaurant, Fried Egg I’m in Love will be al-bu-men-tion for the rest of the day. (Sorry — we’ll leave it to the professionals from here on out.) Originally opened as a food cart on SE Hawthorne, Fried Egg I’m in Love now has a brick-and-mortar space as well as a permanent truck parked at Pioneer Square.

Here you’ll find some of the best egg sandwiches in the region, served with eggs sourced from local farms and bread from Portland French Bakery (along with delicious gluten-free options). They offer what could be a literal ton of add-ons and sauces to adorn a build-your-own sandwich, but the Yolko Ono is their signature dish. It includes fried egg, homemade pesto, parmesan, and a hand-pressed house sausage patty — and it bears no responsibility for the breakup of the Beatles.

If sandwiches aren’t your thing, you can also get a breakfast burrito or bowl with sides of hashbrowns or mixed greens. Stumptown coffee is also available at both locations. The Hawthorne location is open every day from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. The Pioneer truck is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

5. The Sudra

Of course we couldn’t write about the Portland food scene without including a wholly vegan restaurant. The Sudra, an Indian restaurant with a New Mexican twist, is one of the best places in the city to grab potato samosas chaat, chickenless tikka masala, or a jackfruit vindaloo bowl.

Owner Sanjay Chandrasekaran grew up combining the traditional flavors of India with the flare of New Mexican green chilies. And while the restaurant’s menu has evolved over time to encompass more classic Indian dishes, the distinct influence of the Southwest is still there.

Dishes at The Sudra are colorful, complex, and aromatic — a far cry from the brown rice blandness of the carnivore’s imagination. Stop by The Sudra for brunch, lunch, or dinner. The restaurant is located at 2333 NE Glisan Street and is open Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 12 a.m.

6. Le Pigeon

For those desiring a more upscale, fine-dining experience, you’ll find nothing but the finest morsels and cozy surroundings at Le Pigeon on East Burnside. Two-time James Beard Award winner, chef, and owner Gabriel Rucker has been pushing the envelope of French cuisine in the Portland food scene since 2006.

Don’t let “upscale French cuisine” intimidate you, though. Rucker’s fare is adventurous but very accessible. Le Pigeon is known for their beef cheek bourguignon and the grilled pigeon. The real treat is on the dessert menu, though. The foie gras profiteroles with caramel sauce are a truly unique dish.

When you’re ready to splurge on a Le Pigeon meal, be sure to make a reservation (the space is very small and seats fill up quickly). Le Pigeon is located at 738 E Burnside Street and is open every night from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Food from Olympia Provisions. — Wild As Light / Shutterstock

7. Olympia Provisions

Sausage lovers, rejoice. Olympia Provisions is here to make all your cured-meat dreams come true. Oregon’s first USDA-certified meat curing facility has two brick-and-mortar restaurant locations, and both offer a plethora of European-style dishes available for brunch, lunch, and dinner.

Chef TJ McConnaughey uses old-world techniques to create mouth-watering charcuterie plates filled with locally cured meats, seasonal pickled vegetables, and cheeses. Quality is key here, with each item handcrafted with the utmost care. Don’t know where to start? Share a chef’s choice charcuterie board with friends, or try the grilled Cubano sandwich on the lunch menu. The weekend brunch menu has some of the best biscuits and gravy and Eggs Benedict dishes the city has to offer.

The restaurant’s Southeast location is at 107 SE Washington Street and is open Monday through Friday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. The Northwest hours differ slightly, so be sure to check their website for details.

8. Hanoi Kitchen

The family-owned and operated Hanoi Kitchen off Glisan is a great spot for an affordable and delicious Vietnamese meal. Here you’ll find traditional Northern Vietnamese dishes prepared with homestyle care. They serve a wonderful bowl of pho, but on the website you’ll find a disclaimer by the family stating that Vietnamese food has so much more to offer than the bowls of broth and noodles.

Hanoi Kitchen’s menu includes the standard dishes many adventurous diners will recognize, plus lesser-known regional dishes. Their Grandmother’s banh cuon is a signature staple as is their bun ha noi dac biet vermicelli bowl. There are also plenty of vegetarian/vegan options — including vegan pho. When you stop in, be sure to try something new. You won’t be disappointed.

Hanoi Kitchen is located at 7925 NE Glisan Street and is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.

9. Proud Mary Cafe

This Australian-based coffee roaster chose Portland as its first expansion destination, bringing its exquisite coffee and Aussie fare to the Pacific Northwest. Proud Mary coffee shop and cafe offers up cups of the rarest roasts, some of which you won’t find anywhere else in the country, plus delicious brunch and lunch options.

The Melbourne spins on avocado toast and potato hash are absolutely delectable, and the Dutch honey hotcakes are as tasty as they are beautiful. The cafe does take reservations during the week but not on the weekends. Be sure to arrive early to get your name on the list if you want to enjoy a sit-down dining experience as spots are limited and the space gets very busy on the weekends.

Proud Mary is located at 2012 NE Alberta Street and is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Note that the kitchen closes daily at 3 p.m.

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