What To Expect At Carnaval In Panama

Public celebrations mark the days before the somber Christian season of Lent in many countries. Each culture puts its own spin on carnival season. Carnaval in Panama takes place over the four days preceding Ash Wednesday, the start of Lent, and features street dancing, music, parades, exotically decorated floats, elaborately dressed queens, and long hours of partying. It’s colorful, lively, and loud.

Here’s what to expect when visiting Panama for Carnaval.

Carnival celebrations in Panama. — US Embassy Panama / Flickr

A Countrywide Party

Carnaval takes over the country. Although it is not an official holiday, many businesses shut down for the period. There are food and drink booths, live music events, and vendors selling souvenirs and street food. There are parades and fireworks. There are street dances. People gather in town squares, in the streets, and in their homes to eat, drink, and party until the wee hours of the morning.

Even though Carnaval doesn’t officially start until the Saturday before Ash Wednesday, in many places, the partying begins on Friday. On Tuesday, the last day, the partying lasts until dawn. Pace yourself if you want to take in as much of the festivities as possible. Early afternoon is often siesta time.

Carnaval is also a time for families to celebrate together. Many locals travel to their hometowns to observe the holiday with loved ones. I experienced Carnaval in the small town of Pedasi. It seemed as if every house in town was full of visiting relatives. The aroma of roasting chickens greeted us as we walked through the streets of town. Music emanated from houses and from massive speaker systems set up in car trunks. People visited and danced on their front porches, greeting all passersby with big waves and smiles.

Variations From Town To Town

Carnaval is celebrated in a similar manner in towns across Panama, with slight variations from region to region. Some towns are particularly known for their Carnaval celebrations.

Celebrations in Panama City are centered in Cinta Costera and Balboa. The giant street parties feature parades with floats, exotic costumes, music, dancing, and fireworks. Bocas del Toro, Panama’s party capital, is the place for serious partygoers. Carnaval festivities there are particularly spirited. Carnaval in Penonome takes an aquatic turn — the parade floats along a river.

The most extravagant celebration in the country occurs in the town of Las Tablas in the Azuero Peninsula. A rivalry between two parts of town, Calle Arriba (Uptown) and Calle Abajo (Downtown), dominates the celebrations, with parades featuring queens from each part. A similar celebration occurs in the nearby town of Pedasi, where I experienced Carnaval. I’ve read articles claiming Carnaval in Pedasi is a calmer experience than in other places, but I found the party in Pedasi to be anything but sedate.

Other towns and cities with notable Carnaval celebrations include Chitre, Los Santos, Dolega, David, Capira, Aguadulce, San Miguelito, and Ocu.

A festive float during Panama's Carnival. — Donna Janke

A Battle Between Uptown And Downtown

In Las Tablas and many other parts of Panama, Carnaval features a “feud” between two parts of town, Calle Arriba and Calle Abajo. Each side selects a queen well in advance of the festival. In Pedasi, more and more posters promoting one queen or another were tacked up around town as Carnaval neared. It didn’t take us long to realize we were staying in Calle Arriba.

Over the course of the four days of Carnaval, the two sides compete. Each side creates elaborate floats to carry their extravagantly dressed queen and her princesses. Brass and drum bands known as murgas accompany the floats. Supporters of the queen, called tunas, follow, dancing and singing. Their rhythmic songs sounded repetitive to me at first, but they were infectious, and by the second day they made me smile and start to dance.

In Pedasi, there are two parades each day, one around noon, and the other closer to midnight. The floats and tunas of each queen start out from opposite ends of town and march toward the town square, which they circle several times. There are fireworks. At the end of the parade, the floats return to the opposite ends of town to be dismantled and recreated with new decorations for the next parade. The queens wear different costumes in each parade.

The winning queen is chosen at the end of the last parade on the morning of Ash Wednesday. It was the other side of town, Calle Abajo, that won the year I attended Carnaval in Pedasi.

Colorful Dress

Parading Carnaval queens and princesses wear tiaras and glittering over-the-top costumes covered in beads and gems. Long multicolored plumes fan out behind them to the sides and above their heads.

Queens and princesses wear polleras in the last parade of Carnaval. The pollera is a traditional Panamanian dress. The handmade skirt and blouse have layered frills running from the bodice down the full length of the skirt. Consisting of yards and yards of fine fabric and decorated with colorful embroidered designs, a single pollera can take months to make and may be handed down from generation to generation.

The wearing of polleras isn’t limited to queens and princesses. In Pedasi around 6 p.m. on Tuesday evening, the last day of Carnaval, men and women dressed in traditional garb begin making their way to the town square — the women in polleras, and the men in montunas, long-sleeved embroidered white shirts worn over simple black trousers. Accompanied by a brass band, they march around the town square and center of town for hours. In Panama City, thousands march in their polleras on Sunday afternoon.

Getting Wet

Cistern trucks called culecos are a staple of Carnaval in Panama. La mojadera, or the spraying of water into the crowds from the trucks, is meant to be fun. When you’re amidst a crowd of people in hot tropical weather, it can also be refreshing.

If you want to avoid getting wet, it’s not just the culecos you’ll need to watch out for. Water guns and balloons are popular among festival attendees, especially the children. At the Pedasi Carnaval, water guns were the hottest commodity at the stalls around the town square.

Two Carnival participants in devils' masks. — Ricardo Canino / Shutterstock

Dirty Devils

You may also see diablos sucios (“dirty devils”) at Carnaval celebrations. Clad in red and/or black, they wear elaborate, scary handmade masks. The making of the masks is a traditional art. The dirty devils are a part of Panamanian folklore and are thought to ward off evil spirits. Traditionally, they carry animal bladders, which leak as they dance — hence the name “dirty devils.”

In Bocas del Toro, the dirty devils crack whips. I don’t recall dirty devils being a significant feature of Carnaval in Pedasi, although at least one member of the queen’s murga band wore a mask.

Crowds

Carnaval is a countrywide celebration, so expect to encounter crowds. If, like me, you are somewhat overwhelmed by crowds of people, you can take comfort in the fact that the colors, music, and festive vibe are likely to counteract any unease. The atmosphere is a fun one. Do, however, be careful about your personal possessions, and leave valuables behind. With all the crowds, the streets can be dirty. Don’t wear your best clothes.

Although Panama City has its own celebrations, many people travel from the city to their family homes for Carnaval. This results in heavy traffic exiting the city on the days before the festival and returning to the city after the festival.

Be prepared to pay a premium for accommodations during Carnaval, and plan to book well in advance. Prices for accommodations in popular Carnaval towns go up during Carnaval. The nightly Carnaval rate for our Aibnb in Pedasi was almost triple the non-Carnaval rate. In the days leading up to Carnaval, I noticed more and more houses offering rooms for rent.

The influx of people can overwhelm the infrastructure of some of these small towns. We encountered electrical and water outages during Carnaval in Pedasi. Neither dampened the party spirit or stopped the festivities.

Burial Of The Sardine

Carnaval ends with the Burial of the Sardine just before sunrise on Ash Wednesday, a tradition imported from Spain. Costumed mourners carry a symbolic sardine in a tiny coffin to its burial spot. As with other aspects of Carnaval, each town has its own variation on the tradition. The burial marks the end of the partying and the beginning of the 40 days of Lent.

The 7 Best Castles To Visit In The Loire Valley

With its fertile fields and flowing rivers, France’s Loire Valley was a strategic location for fortresses during the Hundred Years’ War between France and England. When the conflict finally came to an end, France’s elite filled the French countryside with opulent castles that served as signs of their wealth and influence.

Today, the castles of the Loire Valley attract more than three million visitors each year, making the UNESCO World Heritage site one of the most popular French tourist destinations outside the capital city of Paris. But with so many castles to choose from, it’s difficult to know which curved keeps and manicured gardens to visit.

Whether you want to explore one castle on a day trip from Paris or spend a few days exploring several castles in the Loire Valley, here are a few marvelous structures to consider.

The Chateau de Blois in Blois, France. — Yuri Turkov / Shutterstock

1. Chateau De Blois, Blois, France

About a 2-hour drive from Paris, the Chateau de Blois was the birthplace of King Louis XII. Constructed around a single courtyard, the castle’s four wings represent four distinct periods and styles: Gothic, Flamboyant, Renaissance, and Classicism.

The Chateau de Blois was one of two royal residences kept by King Francois I. He ordered the construction of the Renaissance wing, with its elaborate exterior staircase covered with fine bas-relief sculptures, immediately after ascending to the throne

The fire-breathing salamander at the Chateau de Blois. — Sage Scott

Inside this wing, keep an eye out for ermines and fire-breathing salamanders, the spirit animals of Queen Anne of Bretagne and King Francois I, respectively.

Pro Tip: Be sure to take in the view of the Loire River and the town of Blois from the Foix Tower, one of the remaining components of the original medieval fortress.

The Chateau de Chambord in Chambord, France. — Sage Scott

2. Chateau De Chambord, Chambord, France

Surrounded by a 13,000-acre wooded game reserve, the Chateau de Chambord was designed as a hunting lodge for King Francois I so that he could be closer to his mistress, the Comtesse de Thoury. Despite not serving as one of the king’s official residences, this French Renaissance castle is the largest in the Loire Valley, with 440 rooms, 84 staircases, and 365 fireplaces. (But you’ll only get to tour about 60 of the rooms when you visit.)

The piece de resistance is a double-helix staircase that pulls four spacious rooms together at the center of the keep while winding its way up to the castle’s tallest tower.

The double-helix staircase at the Chateau Chambord. — Davesayit / Shutterstock

King Francois I was enamored with Italian art and architecture, and it is thought that Leonardo da Vinci helped design the impressive staircase after moving to France to serve as the king’s premier architect and engineer.

Pro Tip: Once you’ve explored the castle and surrounding gardens, visit the small chapel dedicated to Saint Louis near the southern tower. You’ll find several restaurants, cafes, and other places to grab a bite along the southwestern edge of the castle in the old village square known as Place Saint Louis.

The Chateau D'Amboise in Amboise, France. — Sage Scott

3. Chateau D’Amboise, Amboise, France

The Chateau d’Amboise is located on a spur above the Loire River where fortresses have protected the town since the Iron Age. The castle has a centuries-long history that includes serving as one of the royal residences of King Francois I and being confiscated by the government when King Louis Philippe abdicated the throne in 1848.

The Saint Hubert Chapel at the Chateau D’Amboise. — Sage Scott

You won’t want to miss the Saint Hubert Chapel; it’s dedicated to the patron saint of hunting and is the final resting place of Leonardo da Vinci.

Pro Tip: To reach the next castle on this list, consider strolling a quarter-mile through the town of Amboise. Not only will you pass some great places to grab a bite or sip a soda, but you’ll also be treated to beautiful half-timbered homes and the sights and sounds of locals going about their everyday lives.

The Chateau Du Clos Luce in Amboise, France. — Sage Scott

4. Chateau Du Clos Luce, Amboise, France

Leonardo da Vinci spent his final three years as a guest of King Francois I at the Chateau du Clos Luce. It was here that he developed many of his most visionary inventions, from the helicopter to the machine gun.

After exploring the castle, be sure to visit the Leonardo da Vinci Park.

The Da Vinci gardens at the Chateau Du Clos Luce. — Sage Scott

The serene setting includes shade trees, colorful flowers, and relaxing water features. You can also interact with full-size working prototypes of da Vinci’s inventions, including the revolving bridge, assault chariot, and aerial screw.

Although visitors can’t verify this on their own, legend has it that secret tunnels connect King Francois I’s home at Chateau d’Amboise with da Vinci’s home at Clos Luce.

The Chateau De Chenonceau in Chenonceaux, France. — Sage Scott

5. Chateau De Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France

The Chateau de Chenonceau isn’t visible until visitors walk through the Grand Avenue of Plane Trees, a wide dirt path that is approximately a quarter-mile long. But the view at the other end of the dusty avenue is absolutely spectacular. Built over the Cher River, the Chateau de Chenonceau looks like a fairy-tale fortress built on a medieval stone arch bridge.

The Chateau de Chenonceau is often referred to as the Ladies’ Castle because it was the only French castle designed, protected, and restored by women.

Avenue of trees leading to the Chateau De Chenonceau. — Sage Scott

The bridge-like fortress surrounded by water is impressive on its own, but you won’t want to miss the castle’s gardens. In addition to gorgeous green spaces designed by Catherine de Medici and Diane de Poitiers, you’ll see a hedge maze and a 2.5-acre flower garden bordered by apple trees.

Pro Tip: As you explore the castle, keep an eye out for the interlocking capital Cs topped with a golden crown. While the symbol looks like the Chanel logo, it’s actually the insignia of Catherine de Medici, who managed the Kingdom of France from her lime-colored study in the castle in the mid-16th century.

The Chateau De Villandry in Villandry, France. — Sage Scott

6. Chateau De Villandry, Villandry, France

The Chateau de Villandry was originally built for King Francois I’s minister of finance. And in the early 1900s, a non-royal couple — Dr. Joachim Carvallo and his American heiress wife, Ann Coleman — purchased the chateau and restored it to its original Renaissance beauty.

The kitchen at the Chateau De Villandry. — Sage Scott

While the castle is certainly grand and the grounds are impressive, this chateau has a down-to-earth feeling about it. Perhaps it’s because Dr. Carvallo and his wife raised their six children in the castle or because it is their heirs who maintain it today.

The Chateau D’Usse in Rigny-Usse, France. — Sage Scott

7. Chateau D’Usse, Rigny-Usse, France

A 3-hour drive southwest of Paris is the Chateau d’Usse. Built on the edge of the Chinon Forest, this fairy-tale castle was inspired by Charles Perrault’s Sleeping Beauty and was one of the castles that Walt Disney drew upon when designing Cinderella Castle.

The current owners have embraced the castle’s influence on fairy tales and magic kingdoms by recreating scenes from Sleeping Beauty in the curved rooms of one of the castle’s turrets.

The gardens at the Chateau D’Usse. — Sage Scott

If you find that to be a bit cheesy (or you’re visiting Usse between mid-November and mid-February, when the castle is closed for the winter), you can at least admire the castle’s beautiful exterior.

Pro Tip: The best place to photograph this castle is from the bridge over the Indre River directly north of the castle.

Tips For Visiting The Loire Valley Castles

The best Loire Valley castles for a day trip from Paris are the Chateau de Blois and the Chateau de Chambord. They are both 2 hours southwest of Paris.
If you’d like to experience several Loire Valley castles, don’t plan on seeing more than two in one day. It’s also a good idea to identify the castles you want to see in advance and select centrally located accommodations. To see the castles on this list, consider staying in the town of Tours.
In addition to its stunning castles, the Loire Valley is known for its locally sourced cuisine and world-class sauvignon blanc and pinot noir wines, so be sure to enjoy them as well as the rich history and impressive architecture.

Want to enjoy Paris off the beaten path? Check out these hidden gems, delightful shops, surprising things to do, and lesser-known churches in the city.

How We Avoided An Airbnb Disaster In New York City

At Christmastime, New York City really dresses up for the season. There’s a sparkling, giant tree at the Rockefeller Center and ice skating in Central Park. The Rockettes dance to live orchestra music, elaborate window displays are everywhere, and the city hosts an enchanting outdoor Christmas market.

For years, a trip to New York City in December was on my bucket list. So last summer, I decided it was time to book it.

Booking With Care

Before choosing an Airbnb, I studied maps of Manhattan. My previous trips to New York City were in the spring and summer, but this trip would entail cold temperatures and possibly snow. I wanted to be near Times Square and the Rockefeller Center to avoid walking too far in the winter weather, but I didn’t want to be too close to the crowds and noise.

After much deliberation, I chose what I thought was the perfect apartment in an area not far from the main sights. The photos were mostly of the living room, and the listing description mentioned that the bedroom was small. I didn’t worry about that, since my family doesn’t require luxury. We’ve stayed in many Airbnbs, and this one promised to be a winner.

My daughter, who has been to New York City on business many times, decided to join us. We were all set for five days of holiday family fun.

The writer with her husband and daughter in New York City. — Sharon Odegaard

Reality Bites

We arrived in New York City at night, with cold rain that would soon become snow. Our Uber driver dropped us off in front of a restaurant that he assured us was our apartment’s address. We found a small door behind a bank of trash cans. Our host’s neighbor met us to unlock the hallway doors. We climbed the stairs covered in threadbare carpet past piles of junk.

Then our host’s neighbor opened the door to our home away from home. A wave of heat greeted us. We started peeling off coats, scarves, gloves, boots, and sweaters. The neighbor explained that it was indeed an unbearable 95 degrees inside, but that the boiler heat from the basement was stuck on, so we’d just have to open a window. California girl that I am, I asked if that would let in snow. The neighbor informed us that it would, but at least we wouldn’t be too hot.

Oh, and there was another slight problem — the radiator leaked into a large pan of water. We would need to empty this pan every few hours to avoid a flood in the apartment. I worried that this constant flood watch would put a serious dent in our sightseeing plans.

We could live with issues such as the bedroom being so small that there was no floor space around the bed. You had to jump in from the foot of the bed, and all that night I kept kicking the wall right next to my feet. A bigger problem was the noise from the restaurant and street below that drifted through our open windows all night, with people yelling and car horns honking. Sirens pierced the air. This is the city that never sleeps, and neither did we.

The writer's room at the Grand Hyatt. — Sharon Odegaard

The Happy Solution

My daughter arrived at midnight, and we went into conference mode immediately. We had loyalty points with Hyatt and IHG (Ritz-Carltons and Holiday Inns). In no time, we found that our points would get us into the Grand Hyatt in the heart of Manhattan for three nights. It was too late to move there after midnight (the hotel was full), so we suffered through one night in the Airbnb. In the morning, my daughter commented that with the noise and temperature issues and snow drifting through the windows, she felt like she got as much sleep as if she’d spent the night on a plane.

We transferred to the Grand Hyatt the next day, leaving behind the disaster of a place and settling into delightful elegance — all at no cost to us. We marveled at everything in our new room: The bathroom had no chipped tiles or peeling paint, there were real beds instead of a futon, and there was plenty of room to walk around the beds! We enjoyed a city view out our 34th-floor (closed) window, a block away from the famous Chrysler Building. We didn’t hear a single car horn all night, and we quickly caught up on our sleep in the comfortable room.

I was ready to call it my mistake for booking a hot (and cold), flooding apartment. My daughter was more assertive. When the Airbnb host texted to ask how we were doing, she helped me write a polite but firm response saying we couldn’t stay there and lose so much sleep. To my surprise, he immediately wrote back and offered to refund my payment in full. He just asked that I not leave a negative review. We agreed, and the money was back on my credit card before we flew home. And since we booked the hotel room with points, our lodging situation actually gave us a positive balance in our bank account.

Once that was settled, we had one more night to figure out. It would have been easiest to spend the night at the Grand Hyatt and pay out of pocket. I looked up the cost and was shocked that it would be more than $700. That was definitely not in our travel budget! So, once again, we turned to our stash of points. We found a Holiday Inn around the corner from Madison Square Garden for our last night. We moved from our super-luxurious hotel to a perfectly comfortable hotel in a convenient area. And again, it cost us nothing.

Ice skating in New York City during winter. — Sharon Odegaard

Lessons Learned

Our time in New York City during the holidays far exceeded my expectations. It was charming beyond what I imagined! But we might have spent our time tired and feeling ill from being overheated or cold. And running back to the Airbnb every few hours to empty a pan of water would certainly have disrupted our sightseeing!

Here’s what I learned from this experience.

Collect Hotel Loyalty Points, Even If You Have No Immediate Use For Them

We had points on the back burner, and this meant we could change our plans and move to a place where we could get a good night’s rest. We have points with Marriott and Hilton as well as IHG and Hyatt. It’s not crazy to rack them up — it can save your trip!

Decide What Issues Are Deal Breakers

We stayed in a different Airbnb in New York City a few years ago that also had a small bedroom. I had to launch myself into the bed, since there wasn’t room to walk around it. We’ve laughed about this many times since. Space is at a premium in New York City, so a cramped apartment wouldn’t be a deal breaker.

I’ve stayed in hotels and Airbnbs with ancient bathrooms and broken tiles and stains. Old floors may slant, and stairs may creak. Entryways may be piled with junk. I can deal with those things, but the heating and flooding issues put me over the edge.

Stand Up For Yourself

I would not have told our host (who was out of town) that we didn’t stay at his apartment. But when I did, at the urging of my daughter, he wrote back right away. The situation was resolved to the satisfaction of both of us. And I’m guessing that when he got home, he fixed the heating and flooding problems ASAP.

Having a backup plan to book hotel rooms for free, knowing our tolerance limits, and being nice but firm with our Airbnb host all paid off. The three of us enjoyed a memorable holiday trip.

Trying to decide between a hotel and an Airbnb for your New York City vacation? Check out our breakdown.

Why Cruising Is The Best Option For Travelers Over 50

I love to travel. I’ve visited most of the U.S. states and Canada, Mexico, Europe, Morocco, the Bahamas, and many of the Caribbean islands. I’ve traveled by car, plane, train, and cruising. By far, my favorite form of travel is cruising.

I’ve cruised through the Mediterranean, to Alaska, around Canada and the New England states, through the Caribbean islands, and to Mexico. I’ve taken six different cruises and cruised with three different cruise lines: Royal Caribbean, Princess, and MSC.

We have cruised four times in the past 18 months and we have two additional cruises booked.

Cruising is a wonderful way to travel and vacation regardless of age, but the older you get, the more factors make cruising the best option for travelers over 50.

Here are a few to consider:

Sunset from the deck of a cruise ship. — NAPA / Shutterstock

Packing And Unpacking Only Once

Lugging heavy suitcases is hard on the back. I like being able to unpack my suitcase one time, put things in place, and not have to worry about packing again until the end of the cruise. When visiting place to place on a road trip, there’s a lot of unpacking and repacking. Cruising takes that waste of time away so you can enjoy every minute of your vacation.

You Get More For Your Money

Whether you are on a fixed income or have money to splurge, cruising is a great deal: three restaurant meals, snacks, and your room, plus your transportation from port to port for $50 to $150 per day on average during a cruise. Where else can you find that kind of bargain?

Your Flexible Schedule Allows For Longer Cruises

As you age, your schedule usually becomes a bit more flexible with more vacation time from work or full-on retirement. This means you can take longer cruises that allow you to visit more ports and see more of the world. Our last cruise was 10 days and we visited 5 different countries. Usually a longer cruise provides more of a financial bargain when it comes to the cost per day as well.

Night Driving Isn’t Necessary

If you are like me, your eyesight is not as sharp after dark as it is in daylight hours. When cruising, you don’t have to worry about that. You can enjoy a night of shows, music, dancing, and other fun without having to worry about driving home.

A theater on a cruise ship. — Robin Smith

The Service And Meals Are Fantastic

After years of taking care of a family, it is nice to have people taking care of you. A week of no cooking, no bed making, no cleaning, no major responsibilities is fun regardless of age but is an especially fun luxury for the over-50 crowd. I find the service and attention to detail on cruise ships to be above and beyond what I have experienced at all-inclusive resorts.

Long Drives Are History

No more getting out of the car all stiff from driving for hours. There is no need to spend your valuable vacation time in a car or any other form of transportation to get you from one place to another. One of the great benefits of cruising is you are often traveling while you sleep and arrive at your next destination rested and refreshed.

Boredom Doesn’t Happen

It is hard to be bored on a cruise ship. There is always something to do if you wish to do it. There is plenty to do for anyone of any age on a cruise ship. Think movies, bowling, bingo, gambling, dancing, dance lessons, listening to music, reading, playing cards, shopping, spas, saunas, exercise rooms, shows, swimming, and so much more. You can do as much or as little as you desire.

Cruising Over 50 Pro Tips:

If you want the very best night’s sleep, book an indoor cabin. There’s minimal light to filter through the curtains and it is very dark. The soft movement of the waves gently rocks you to sleep. Some of my best sleep has taken place on a cruise in an indoor cabin.
If you are no longer working a full-time job or have flexibility in scheduling, you can pick up some very inexpensive cruises for less than $50 per night by waiting till the last minute to book. Regardless of what you pay for your cruise, you will get the same fantastic service, food, and entertainment.
Are you considering a bucket-list cruise? If yes, it is best to book about a year ahead since cruises to the most desirable destinations often fill, or the type of room you want might not be available.
A cruise is your opportunity to try new foods. When I travel and eat in restaurants, I’m usually hesitant about trying new things that I might not like because of the cost, and because I don’t want to waste food. (I’m a picky eater!) On a cruise, you can try new things without worry. There is a sense of freedom knowing if you dislike something, it is okay, and you can get something else you will enjoy at no extra cost. I’ve tried many new dishes while cruising that I would not otherwise have tasted.

Want to experience a truly unique cruise? Consider a European wine river cruise or these eight reasons to see Croatia by boat.

7 Reasons To Visit The Royal Family’s Retired Yacht

In 1997, the normally stoic Queen Elizabeth shed a tear when the Royal Yacht Britannia was decommissioned. The ship had traveled more than one million miles in its 40 years of service. Most trips were diplomatic with the royals visiting dignitaries in far-flung foreign ports.

And while the yacht has a fascinating history, it’s still just as loved today. In fact, Britannia was ranked as the top UK landmark to visit by TripAdvisor UK’s 2014/15 Travellers’ Choice Awards. Even still, when I went, I expected to be a little bored. Instead, I was royally engaged for three hours.

In between ports, the yacht was a place where the royals could relax away from the public limelight. All four of the Queen’s children honeymooned on board Britannia. During Prince Charles and Princess Diana’s Mediterranean cruise, the crew became so adept at ducking photographers that Britannia was dubbed “the ghost ship.” Here are some of the reasons the impressive vessel is worth a visit.

View from the bow of the Royal Yacht Britannia. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

1. It’s Easily Accessible

The retired yacht is docked next to the Ocean Terminal — a huge shopping mall in the Port of Leith roughly a 20-minute bus ride from central Edinburgh. Britannia is accessed via the visitor’s center on the second floor. All five decks can be reached via a shore-side elevator tower, and the ship prides itself on being wheelchair accessible.

The Queen's room aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

2. You’ll Get Personal Glimpses Of Royalty

Britannia offers a more intimate portrayal of the royals than a tour of Buckingham Palace, where tourists only see the formal reception rooms. There are regal reception rooms on Britannia, but you also get to see the family’s living quarters, complete with furnishings that flaunt florals and chintzes.

This is the first time living British royal bedrooms have been on public display. Her Majesty and Prince Phillip had adjoining rooms but single beds. Prince Charles had a double bed brought on board when he married Diana, and there is a photo of the hopeful couple on the bedside table. So sad in retrospect.

The Royal Yacht Britannia in Scotland. — Edinburghcitymom / Shutterstock

3. See How Royal Kids Will Be Kids

Adults sunbathed on the Verandah Deck, and the children frolicked in an inflatable wading pool. As they grew older, a slide doused with water was placed on the steep stairway leading from this deck to the Royal Deck, and Prince Charles and his siblings would see how far they could propel themselves along the polished deck. Even Prince Philip had his turn. But it wasn’t a free-for-all. Princess Anne once said it took a team of nannies to prevent them falling overboard as the children became so excitable at sea. Each child was also allocated a “Sea Daddy,” a crew member to keep them occupied.

The dining room on the Royal Yacht Britannia. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

4. Understand How Royalty Operates

The yacht was a representation of the United Kingdom’s greatness, and everything had to be ship-shape. A smudge on board would not be tolerated, and even the propellers faced a certain direction before dignitaries arrived. The engine room was immaculate with not a skerrick of grease.

The State Dining Room seated up to 56 dinner guests. The Clintons, President Reagan and wife Nancy, Nelson Mandela, Frank Sinatra, and Sir Winston Churchill were just a few of those who dined on board.

Precision was everything. Chairs were carefully aligned, and the distance between each place setting and the cutlery was measured with rulers.

The gifts in the dining room cabinets reveal the extent of the Queen’s far-flung travels and include a carved shark signed by Pitcairn Islanders, descendants of Fletcher Christian of Mutiny on the Bounty, an Easter Island stone head, a wooden Galapagos tortoise, and a Sioux peace pipe.

The writer enjoying tea on board the Royal Yacht Britannia. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

5. Enjoy Afternoon Tea On Board

Afternoon tea at the Royal Deck Tea Room is a must during your visit. This is where the Royals enjoyed their meals, too. Floor-to-ceiling windows showcase views of ships plying the Firth of Forth. Tea comes in little silver teapots, and there are excellent cheese scones as well as whisky cake. My table was on the deck — a wonderful setting for that slice of Victoria Sponge I’d been saving myself for.

Crew Laundry on Royal Yacht Britannia — Crew Laundry Room (Photo Credit: Francesco Ricciardi Exp / Shutterstock.com)

6. Learn About Life As A Crew Member

Britannia’s crew included an admiral, 21 officers, and 220 Royal Yachtsmen (called yotties by the Royals).

The yotties’ bunk accommodations were cramped and basic. They wore gym shoes in order to tread quietly and would often use hand signals to communicate rather than shouting orders so as not to disturb the royals.

The officers had their own mess room where they enjoyed a tipple or two. A favorite game was tennis, during which a stuffed wombat toy was placed on the blades of the ceiling fan, careening off at unpredictable angles for awaiting players. The wooden monkey from the Queen’s 1957 visit to Copenhagen had a less painful existence. It would simply disappear from the cabinet each night and reemerge in unusual places in a game of hide-and-seek the whole ship enjoyed.

The wooden monkey on board the Royal Yacht Britannia. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

7. Visit The Royal Gift Shop

The ship’s gift shop sells quintessentially English items like corgi handbags, shortbread tins, tea bags with royal figureheads you balance on the side of your cup, and fine china. You can purchase bottles of Britannia gin or Christmas puddings. These have been made in the galley for the last 60 years and are part of a royal tradition.

Leith Harbor in Edinburgh, Scotland. — Leith Harbor, Albert Pego / Shutterstock.com

Bonus: Consider Enjoying Leith And Staying Aboard The Fingal

Wander around the historic port of Leith, a cosmopolitan area with artisanal restaurants, bars, and shops. To provide memorable accommodation, the team behind the Royal Yacht Britannia launched Fingal, a 23-cabin luxury floating hotel in 2019, and it is moored nearby. £5 million were spent outfitting Fingal in art deco elegance, and royalty stayed here, too. The hotel’s Skerryvore Suite incorporates a portion of the cabin that was sometimes stayed in by Princess Anne.

This is your chance to sleep like a royal — in a king-sized bed rather than a single. The Royal Yacht Britannia seems a portrait of pomp and privilege, but when compared to today’s more lavish accommodations, it pales in comparison.

Note the clocks on board Britannia are set at 3:01, the moment the Queen last disembarked the royal yacht on December 11, 1997. It was indeed a sad moment for her Majesty, but a great day for tourists who can now enjoy this right royal attraction.

Planning some royal sightseeing? Don’t miss these 11 amazing hidden gems in Edinburgh, or these 9 United Kingdom castles you can actually stay in.

How To Take The Train From London To Paris

Eurostar is the train that runs between London and Paris for people going without a car. It runs more than 12 times daily, connecting St. Pancras International Station in London with Paris Gare du Nord. Here’s some basic information about how Eurostar works, what it’s like, and other ways of making the trip.

London and Paris each offer legendary culture, dining, history, architecture, shopping, and more. There’s no need to pick just one when you can easily travel between them any day of the week.

Why Take The Train?

Different travelers have different priorities, especially when it comes to cost, time, comfort, and, increasingly, the carbon footprint of their journeys.

Depending on the situation, Eurostar can be a better choice than flying. Here are some of the reasons why.

Cost

The Eurostar ticket includes a reserved seat and allows you to bring two pieces of luggage. Children travel for less on Eurostar.

Cost And Time

The train arrives in Paris proper. If you fly in, you’ll spend time and money transferring from the airport to the city center.

Time

Airlines need you at the airport at least two hours before takeoff. Eurostar in London asks you to arrive between 45 and 60 minutes ahead (longer if you need special assistance). Also, traveling by Eurostar, you’ll clear French customs and border control before leaving London. On the train, there’s no waiting to collect your luggage after the journey.

Comfort

The train is more relaxed and spacious.

Carbon Footprint

The train has a significantly smaller carbon footprint than a London-to-Paris flight or vice versa.

The Eurostar journey time is under two and a half hours. From about 5 a.m. to 11 p.m., trains go approximately once each hour. The most correct and detailed information is on Eurostar’s website and its current timetable.

The Eurostar train in London. — TungCheung / Shutterstock

Things To Know

Eurostar’s pricing depends on how far in advance you book and how much demand there is for the particular day and time you want to ride.

The cheapest offer is the Eurostar Snap £25 one way fare, a limited availability, restricted, non-refundable deal you have to book through Facebook.

Beyond that, the regular booking process offers three classes of fares: Standard, Standard Premier, and Business Premier. As of January 2020, the return fares range from £79 to £339 (Standard), £199 to £439 (Standard Premier), and £491 (Business Premier). One-way fares are about £15 more than half the return fare, roughly.

Tickets go on sale 180 days in advance and can be purchased online or by phone for a £10 fee. Some travel agents handle Eurostar bookings. Booking for yourself online gives you the most control of your reservation, though.

Your seat is assigned, but you can change it online based on availability. The Eurostar website has seat maps.

In Standard class, you pay for food and drink, but you can bring your own food in any class.

I like Standard Premier class because it has larger seats than Standard. You’ll be served a light meal, have more space, and be surrounded by fewer people.

Business Premier offers a private lounge, last-minute boarding privileges, and fancier meals.

St. Pancras International Station in London. — Willy Barton / Shutterstock

Where To Board In London

St. Pancras International Station is part of Kings Cross St. Pancras. These two connected stations function as one.

You can get there by Tube (London Underground), bus, taxi, or out-of-town train.

The Journey Planner on the Transport for London (TfL) website will help you select the best route. Use the “Edit Preferences” button to find options with the least walking, the fewest stairs, and so on. Also, ask at the ticket office of any station in the TfL network for up-to-date travel advice and tips. Maintenance work, often done on weekends, can lead to reduced service and delays.

St. Pancras is a beautiful Victorian building that’s worth exploring. Eurostar takes up much of the lower level.

You will have your luggage with you the whole time. At the Eurostar departures area, pull out your passport and ticket and say your goodbyes. There’s airport-style security and a border check by French officials.

Everyone traveling needs a valid passport. For the precise rules about entering France, including whether you need a visa, the Government of France website is the authoritative source. Here is a visa questionnaire they provide. Your own government’s website may offer useful information as well.

After security, everyone waits in the Eurostar departure lounge. When you board the train, put your larger bags into the big rack at the end of the car. Smaller items can go in the overhead rack above your seat.

Accessibility for people with limited mobility is a priority in London’s public transport. St. Pancras has stairs with nearby elevators along the way from the Tube to the Eurostar.

Eurostar is not part of Transport for London. Eurostar’s website has extensive information about what assistance they offer once you reach them. You should arrive earlier (75 minutes ahead at least) if you require assistance, and if you want help with luggage, keep it under 33 pounds per piece.

Gare du Nord station in Paris. — Bikeworldtravel / Shutterstock

What To Know About Paris Arrival

The Eurostar journey itself is easy. You can eat and drink and plug in your devices. Eurostar offers Wi-Fi (though this might be limited). There are toilets on board.

In the Channel tunnel, it’s dark, but that doesn’t last long. Mostly the view varies between railway embankments and the flat countryside.

In Paris there are no formalities. Gather your luggage, leave the train, and voila, you’re there.

What to do next? Gare du Nord is a major station. You can get a taxi, bus, regional train, or the Paris Metro from here.

The local scammers love the Paris Metro self-serve ticket machines. They will offer to “help” you. Their so-called “help” is always complicated, and you will always lose. Avoid these people and don’t let them distract you. The official agents do not wander around the station; they serve only at the ticket counter.

If all you need is tickets for the Paris Metro, you can often buy them on board your Eurostar train at the bar buffet.

Alternatives To Taking The Train

I’ve already compared the Eurostar to flying.

That said, the cheapest way from London to Paris is by bus. Prices start around £12 one-way. The bus drives above ground and goes into the Chunnel on a vehicle train, not the Eurostar. You stay on the bus the whole time. This journey is hours longer and less comfortable than the Eurostar.

The ferry to France is another option. You can either take a bus from London to Paris via the ferry or find your own way to and from the ferry terminal at each end, going from London to Dover and from Calais to Paris.

Eurostar London To Paris Final Thoughts And Tips

London and Paris are in different time zones. Paris is one hour ahead. The schedule uses the local time — London time for departure, Paris time for arrival.

The Eurostar website has special offers on Paris attractions, deals on hotels, and activities for adults and children, including a very cool virtual reality app, and extensive information about the service.

The website The Man in Seat 61 is full of train travel tips and information. He says if you are connecting to another train in Paris, don’t book your Eurostar ticket until you have your onward train booked first.

I’ve taken several trips on the Eurostar and it’s been a smooth, calm ride every time.

Want more on getting around during your European vacation? Here’s why one writer says renting a car in Britain was a hair-raising experience (and why she absolutely recommends it), plus nine reasons to take a bike tour of Versailles.