7 Best Hikes To Experience In Southern Illinois

I grew up in Southern Illinois, and my wife is a hiker. I’ve been on hikes in Southern Illinois at age seven, and I’ve been on hikes in Southern Illinois at age 47.

And I’ve always told people that Southern Illinois isn’t like the rest of the state. If you’ve been to Central Illinois, you know that it’s perhaps the flattest terrain in the United States. The glaciers didn’t let a single hill remain — it’s perfectly flat as far as the eye can see. But once you get south of Interstate 70, the unofficial place where Southern Illinois begins, you will see terrain that will make you think you’re in Virginia or Montana. That’s what makes Southern Illinois the best place to hike in the state — and even, perhaps, in the Midwest.

Here are seven great hikes to experience in the area.

The Garden of the Gods Recreation Area in Illinois. — Oleksandr Koretskyi / Shutterstock

1. Garden Of The Gods Recreation Area Trails

Herod

We’ll start with the “Am I really in Southern Illinois?” spot. It’s easy to get confused, given that there’s a place called Garden of the Gods in Colorado as well. But yes, this is Southern Illinois, and the views are absolutely incredible.

There are many different ways to experience the Garden of the Gods Recreation Area, so this is perhaps the best spot on this list for those looking for a wide variety of experiences. If you’re a runner looking for a difficult workout, you can run a 10+ mile loop trail with significant climbs. Or if you’re wanting to take your mom or dad on a flat trail that’s less than half a mile and provides incredible views, you can do that as well. Most trails in the area can be extended, shortened, or combined to give you the length and difficulty you desire.

The centerpiece of all these trails are the rock outcroppings known as the Garden of the Gods. All of the trails run through this central spot. And the easiest, flattest trail is located there as well. The Garden of the Gods Observation Trail is an easy, flat 0.5-mile loop from the parking lot to the rock outcroppings. The other trails connect to it, so if you want to continue on to a moderate or even difficult trail that climbs up and down the hills of the recreation area, you can do that as well.

The Cache River State Natural Area in Illinois. — jbtphotos / Shutterstock

2. Cache River State Natural Area Loop Trail

Johnson County

If the Garden of the Gods makes you feel like you’re in Montana, the Cache River State Natural Area makes you feel like you’re in Louisiana. It’s a cypress swamp located deep in Southern Illinois. This swamp area provides two great things: It’s flat, unlike most every other hike in this area, and it gives you views you won’t find anywhere else.

The area’s 7-mile loop trail crosses itself several times, so it can be shortened to 2 miles, 3 miles, or whatever length of hike you’re looking for. The highlight is walking through the swamp areas. (Don’t worry — there are bridges and elevated trails across the wet portions, so you won’t be walking down into the swamp.) You’ll see all kinds of wildlife that you won’t find elsewhere in Southern Illinois.

It’s also a great place in the spring and summer for wildflower viewing. The Cache River and the surrounding areas are unique in Illinois in that they form a boggy wetland like you would see in Louisiana or Florida. As a result, there are wildflower areas you wouldn’t normally see in Southern Illinois. Have your camera ready.

3. Salt Lick Trail

Valmeyer

Perhaps you’ve heard the story of Valmeyer — it’s the town that moved. During the Flood of 1993, the largest flood the Mississippi River has ever seen, the entire town of Valmeyer was completely underwater for more than a month. Government agencies decided that the best solution for this town, which often dealt with flooding, was to move it to the top of the bluff, away from the floodwaters. You can still see the remnants of the old town down in the bottoms, but the new town sits up on the bluff, far away from future floods.

Up on this bluff, you will also find the Salt Lick Trail. This is an easy 2-mile loop trail that can be combined with the Johnson Trail to make a moderate 3.5-mile trail. The views are spectacular. This is one of the widest spots in the Mississippi River Valley, and it gives you a really good view of the entire area. You’ll find it hard to believe that the Mississippi River — way over there — when flooded, stretches all the way across the valley to the base of the bluff you’re standing on.

4. Panther Den Loop, Panther Den Wilderness

Makanda

South of Carbondale, surrounding Crab Orchard Lake and Little Grassy Lake, you’ll find more hiking trails than you can count. There are probably two dozen trails in this 20-mile area, but one of the best is the Panther Den Loop.

Located just south of Devil’s Kitchen Lake, this trail is in an area known as the Panther Den Wilderness. Don’t worry — you’re not going to run into any actual panther dens. It’s the hidden gem trail in the area — the one that the locals all know. You’ll see wildflowers, rock outcroppings, and lots of wildlife. It’s a little difficult to find (all hidden gems are), but follow the signs off of Panther Den Road and Robinson Hill Road, and you’ll find the small parking lot that will lead you to this great little trail.

Inspiration Point in Illinois. — Jason Patrick Ross / Shutterstock

5. Inspiration Point Trail

Union Precinct

If you’re looking for a very short trail that will still get you some exercise, consider Inspiration Point Trail near Wolf Lake. It’s a great little hike out to an overlook and back. And when I say “little,” I mean little. It’s only 0.35 miles from the parking area to the overlook (Inspiration Point), and then you retrace your steps for a total of 0.7 mile.

Perhaps a 3-mile loop isn’t your thing, but you still like to get out in nature and maybe even challenge yourself a bit. This would be the perfect trail for that. The elevation change is approximately 160 feet. You’ll walk slowly downhill out to the point, climbing down 160 feet (think 16 flights of stairs); take your photos from Inspiration Point overlooking the Mississippi River Valley; and then slowly make your way back with a steady climb of 160 feet. Good exercise, less than a mile, and a fantastic view.

6. Wayne Fitzgerrell State Park Trail, Wayne Fitzgerrell State Recreation Area

Whittington

This is the most recent Southern Illinois hike my wife and I have taken. On a trip from Nashville to Saint Louis, we stopped at Rend Lake just south of Mount Vernon. Once there, we headed to Wayne Fitzgerrell State Recreation Area and found the aptly named Wayne Fitzgerrell State Park Trail. We were looking for a 5-mile hike, and this hike was 5.2 miles.

For a 5-mile trail in a hilly area, this trail was surprisingly flat. There are climbs and drops as you wander around the east side of the lake, but it’s nothing like some of the other hikes we’ve discussed. This is simply a pleasant, easy, wooded hike with a great lake view.

7. Red Cedar Trail, Giant City State Park

Makanda

This is my pick for the best hike in Southern Illinois. Check out TravelAwaits’ picks for the best hikes in all 50 states here. I saved the best for last. Or perhaps I should say it this way: If you want every hiking experience listed above — a walk to a rock outcropping where you can’t believe you’re in Illinois, a stroll through a lowland glade with wildflowers, a steady climb up out of a riverbed — then your choice should be Giant City State Park.

In fact, if you’re really adventurous, then you can experience all of these things in one day. If you were to ask me to name my favorite hike in Illinois (and perhaps in the Midwest), I would have to say the Red Cedar Trail in Giant City State Park. It’s a beast — it’s 12 miles long — but I’ve done it twice as an all-day, pack-your-lunch hike, and it was awesome both times. You’ll see everything — massive rock outcroppings, water, deep forests, small waterfalls, and more.

This is not to say that the Red Cedar Trail is the only option at Giant City State Park. There are shorter trails in the park that will take you to some of the famous rock outcroppings. And you can just do parts of the Red Cedar Trail as an out-and-back hike.

But whatever you do, make your way to the lodge at the end. It’s got some of the best fried chicken I’ve ever had — perhaps because I earned it with that 12-mile hike!

What To Know Before You Go

When I hike with my wife, I’m in charge of the map. If the state park or national forest we’re in has a visitor center, I’ll stop and grab a map of all the trails in the area. If not, I can always use the AllTrails app on my phone. This app has seemingly every trail in the country. You open up the map view and simply zoom in to where you are.

And the best part is that the GPS on your smartphone will show you exactly where you are on the trail. If you hike frequently, I’m sure you’ve gotten into a situation where you’re deep in the woods, you come to a fork in the trail, and you’re not sure which way to go. With the app, I can pull out my phone, see the red line for the trail I’m on, and make sure my “dot” is following that trail.

There are both free and paid versions of the app, but the free version provides almost everything an amateur hiker would need. The paid version does allow you to download the maps and use them offline, but that’s often not necessary. It’s a great tool to have when hiking deep in forests with trails going every which way — which is something you see a lot in Southern Illinois.

This article is presented by KEEN Footwear. I basically spend the entire summer in my KEEN Newports. Because of the toe cage, and because I can get them wet, I pretty much wear them everywhere I go. On a hike, I zip the strap tight and they’re just as good as my hiking boots. If we’re on a boat, or if I’m headed to a restaurant in a polo and khaki shorts, the same pair of KEENs are always on my feet. Shop KEEN’s Newports and other hiking shoes here.

Beautiful New Mexico Road Trip: Las Cruces To Tucumcari

From the world’s largest hot air balloon festival in Albuquerque to the state capital of Santa Fe to the art community of Taos, most people who visit the Land of Enchantment spend their time 200 to 350 miles north of New Mexico’s second-largest city.

Built on the rich soil along the Rio Grande and surrounded by the craggy Organ Mountains, Las Cruces is the starting point for this New Mexico road trip that winds northeast through some of the most beautiful (and least traveled) areas of New Mexico.

Because my parents live in Las Cruces and this is part of my road trip route to visit them, I’m excited to drive it at any time of the year. But my favorite time to visit is the spring, when I can escape the bone-chilling cold of the Midwest while reveling in the beautiful views of the desert in bloom.

This road trip is also pretty during the winter months. In fact, the first time I drove through the Sierra Blanca, the mountains were blanketed in a fresh layer of unspoiled snow. Brilliant rays of sunshine streaming through the fir trees made the snow sparkle, and it felt like I was driving through a winter wonderland.

Las Cruces

The expansion of the railroad and the construction of the Interstate Highway System profoundly affected the towns that anchor this road trip. Las Cruces was selected as the location for the area’s train station in the mid 1800s, and the iron beams staked to the Chihuahuan Desert rerouted activity from the bustling town of Mesilla to the City of Crosses.

So, in recognition of its contributions to the history of the area, visit Mesilla, located just a few miles southwest of downtown Las Cruces. The historic plaza, anchored by the Basilica of San Albino, is now surrounded by local shops and restaurants. As you wander, look for informational plaques that explain Mesilla’s history posted outside many of the buildings. After shopping for silver jewelry, handmade items, and local food souvenirs, enjoy a bite to eat and a margarita at La Posta de Mesilla, a local gem that has served authentic New Mexican cuisine since World War II.

Hiking in Las Cruces, New Mexico. — Sage Scott

With its abundant sunshine and temperate year-round weather, Las Cruces is a great place to spend time outside. Hike “A” Mountain (named after the New Mexico State Aggies) for phenomenal views of Las Cruces. Visit the Dripping Springs Natural Area, where you can explore the haunting ruins of a sanatorium for patients with tuberculosis. Or enjoy a casual afternoon and a picnic at Veterans Memorial Park, Apodaca Park, or Young Park.

Once you’ve had your fill of everything green chile and have crossed your must-see experiences off your Las Cruces bucket list, jump in the car and head east. But before you go, check for road closures along U.S. Route 70 by visiting NMRoads or calling (575) 678-1178. Why? Because when a test is underway at the White Sands Missile Range, the highway is often closed to traffic for up to an hour, and nothing puts a damper on a road trip like being parked on a highway.

Pro Tip: About 30 minutes east of Las Cruces, make a quick stop at the Space Murals Museum and Gift Shop in the small town of Organ. As is true of most water towers in Las Cruces, the standard-issue metal tank is covered with bright, thematic murals. You can find a complete list of the Las Cruces water tank murals, including a map, here.

White Sands

To Southern New Mexicans, “White Sands” can mean one of two things: the missile range or the national monument. On this road trip, we’ll visit both!

About 30 minutes east of Las Cruces, on the other side of the Organ Mountains, is the White Sands Missile Range Museum. Step inside to learn more about Southern New Mexico’s contributions to the development of the atomic bomb used to end World War II and the present-day testing facility. In the missile park outside the museum, visitors can examine a variety of rockets, missiles, and aircraft.

White Sands National Monument in New Mexico. — Sage Scott

Another half hour northeast, stop at White Sands National Park to take in the cool, powdery white sand of one of the world’s biggest gypsum sand dune fields. Tour the park by car along Dunes Drive or explore on foot by walking along the Interdune Boardwalk or sinking your feet into the shifting sands of a backcountry hiking trail.

Whether you choose to explore from the comfort of your car or on foot, don’t leave the White Sands Visitor Center without plenty of water for everyone in your party. Potable water isn’t available elsewhere in the park, and the arid high desert can be stealthily dehydrating.

Alamogordo

Continuing northeast, Alamogordo is the first town after White Sands, making it the perfect place to fuel up both your car and your stomach. If you’re craving a cup of coffee and breakfast fare, head to the Waffle & Pancake Shoppe. For street tacos, enchiladas, and other delights topped with fresh New Mexico chile, enjoy lunch or dinner at Rizo’s Restaurant. Or if you want to grab sandwiches and sides for a picnic, check out the Brown Bag Deli.

If you didn’t get your fill of space history at the water tank mural pit stop and missile range museum, then visit the New Mexico Museum of Space History in Alamogordo. Inside the multistory mirrored cube, you can learn about rockets, what it’s like to live in space, and more.

For a change of pace from outer space, head to the Alameda Park Zoo. This small but well-maintained park does an outstanding job of keeping natural enclosures and educating visitors about the animals.

Before heading for the forests and mountains that await, take a free tour of Eagle Ranch. Established by a retired Air Force officer and his wife, this working pistachio farm and vineyard produces delicious nuts and award-winning wines that can’t be missed.

Lincoln National Forest

Covering more than a million acres of land, the Lincoln National Forest lies directly east of Alamogordo. The forest elevation ranges from 4,000 to 11,500 feet above sea level, and visitors can experience five different climates, from the cactus-filled Chihuahuan Desert to a fir-lined subalpine desert.

While the barrel-chested, denim-wearing cartoon version of Smokey Bear is widely recognized across the United States, few know about the real-life inspiration for the U.S. Forest Service’s blaze beacon. In 1950, a badly burned bear cub was rescued from a tree in the Lincoln National Forest’s Capitan Mountains region. After being nursed back to health, Smokey spent the remainder of his life at the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., where he was the inspiration for a fire prevention and safety program still in effect today.

Pro Tip: To explore the Lincoln National Forest by car, check out these scenic drives.

Tularosa

Throughout New Mexico, stick-figure characters and simple illustrations of native animals serve as reminders of the indigenous people who inhabited this land long before the Spanish conquistadors and European settlers arrived. Stop at Three Rivers Petroglyph Site near Tularosa to admire thousands of examples of prehistoric Jornada Mogollon art.

Ruidoso

Arcing eastward along the Sierra Blanca through Carrizozo, the next stop on this New Mexico road trip is Ruidoso, best known for its skiing and racetrack. I recommend a stop at the Noisy Water Winery. In addition to red and white, port-like, and sparkling wines, this award-winning vineyard and winery offers unique chile wines. And if you’ve spent more than a day in New Mexico, you should expect nothing less from the land of everything chile.

Tucumcari

At the start of this road trip, I mentioned how the railroad’s arrival shifted population and power from Mesilla to Las Cruces. In Tucumcari, it was concrete, rather than iron rails, that shifted the course of travelers.

Whether fleeing the devastating Dust Bowl or heading to Santa Monica for vacation, Americans traveling on Route 66 passed through the heart of Tucumcari. They dined at the Westerner Drive-Inn, walked through the concrete teepee door of a curio shop seeking souvenirs, and bedded down at the Blue Swallow Motel. But when Interstate 40 was completed several miles south of town, business along Tucumcari Boulevard blew away like a tumbleweed into the desert.

One of the many murals in Tucumcari, New Mexico. — Sage Scott

Visiting downtown Tucumcari today feels a bit like exploring a ghost town where people still live. Abandoned icons sit next to restored gems, and nearly 100 beautiful murals tying the historic Mother Road to the 21st century stitch the two eras together.

Whether examining prehistoric petroglyphs or modern-day murals, driving past arid desert landscapes or winding through evergreen-covered mountains, southeastern New Mexico is full of unique sights and experiences you won’t want to miss.

6 Perfect Ways To Spend Time In Pawhuska, OK With The Pioneer Woman

A decade ago, most Americans likely hadn’t heard of Pawhuska, and the northern Oklahoma town of 4,000 certainly wasn’t a travel destination. But in the past few years, two unrelated events have put Pawhuska on the map.

In April 2017, journalist David Grann published Killers of the Flower Moon, a suspenseful mystery that was recognized as one of the top books of that year. Detailing the cold-blooded murder and systematic poisoning of members of the Osage Nation, what makes Grann’s book so terrifying is that it is nonfiction.

Visiting the region once full of millionaire-making oil that inspired a best-selling book may not be enough to draw most people across the tallgrass prairie from larger cities like Tulsa and Oklahoma City. But the chance to catch a glimpse of legendary director Martin Scorsese, Academy Award winner Robert De Niro, or Titanic heartthrob Leonardo DiCaprio might do the trick. The trio is filming the big-screen version of Killers of the Flower Moon in Pawhuska in 2020.

And then there’s Ree Drummond.

From an Osage County cattle ranch established by her husband’s great-grandfather around the time of the terrifying Osage murders, the bubbly redhead started a food blog in 2006. It began with musings and photos of everyday life on the ranch — from shipping cattle to close-ups of caterpillars — and bloomed into a cooking blog. With detailed, step-by-step instructions and mouth-watering photos, her post “How to Cook a Steak” launched her to household-name fame. (After all, she is married to a fourth-generation cattle rancher, so she probably didn’t want to start by tossing a salad!)

Fun Fact: Decades before food writer Ree Drummond was known as the Pioneer Woman, English-born Bryant Baker cast a bronze sculpture of a homesteading woman leading her young son toward a bright future in Oklahoma. You can see the original Pioneer Woman in Ponca City, about an hour due west of Pawhuska.

Whether it’s history, Hollywood stars, or the smell of a steak sizzling in butter that draws you to Pawhuska, here are six perfect ways to enjoy the Pioneer Woman’s stomping grounds.

Pro Tip: The largest town in Oklahoma’s sprawling Osage County, Pawhuska is about 60 miles northwest of Tulsa, 150 miles northeast of Oklahoma City, and about 130 miles southeast of Wichita.

1. Shop At The Pioneer Woman Mercantile

In 2016, fans of Ree’s Food Network television show watched the restoration of the circa-1910, red brick Osage Mercantile at Kihekah and Main. Crews carefully refinished the original wood floors, polished the tin ceilings, and painstakingly preserved the original National Biscuit Co sign. When the Pioneer Woman Mercantile (also known as The Merc) opened in October of that year, it quickly attracted thousands of visitors a day to Pawhuska.

Fun Fact: When Ladd Drummond’s Scottish great-grandfather first arrived in Pawhuska, he worked at the Osage Mercantile as a clerk.

When you visit, you’ll see an ever-changing collection of seasonal items — think recipe books, kitchen decor, and cooking utensils — blended with unique, one-of-a-kind (and even quirky) items like silver “I Love Butter” bracelets and baby cowboy chaps.

Pro Tip: Before you head to The Pioneer Woman Mercantile in Pawhuska, read Ree Drummond’s first post about the building from 2012. Seeing the dilapidated “before” photos makes the post-renovation experience even more impressive.

2. Eat At The Pioneer Woman Restaurant

As you approach the Pioneer Woman Mercantile, don’t be discouraged by a long line outside the restaurant. Yes, there’s nearly always a wait for a stack of lighter-than-air pancakes and melt-in-your-mouth pot roast, but the staff at The Merc works hard to make the time pass quickly by passing out water on warm days, providing sidewalk chalk, and asking trivia questions.

Pro Tip: If your Pawhuska itinerary doesn’t allow for a three-hour lunch, follow the Grab and Go sign to a streamlined selection of Pioneer Woman favorites and take your meal on the road!

3. Sip A Cup Of Cowboy Coffee Paired With A Baked Treat

After you’ve browsed through the store and enjoyed a delicious meal at the restaurant, climb the wide staircase (or take the elevator) to the second floor. Finish your visit to the Pioneer Woman Mercantile by sipping a freshly brewed cup of coffee or munching on a sweet treat from the bakery in this spacious, sunny area.

Pro Tip: If you are visiting The Merc with a food allergy, know that the Pioneer Woman bakery has gluten-free options like pound cake!

Before you leave, take a moment to admire Ree Drummond’s photography throughout The Merc. Digital slideshows on flat screens and framed pieces on the 100-year-old brick walls showcase nearly two decades of everyday life on a working cattle ranch in northern Oklahoma.

Fun Fact: The town of Pawhuska is named after Paw-Hiu-Skah, the 18th-century leader of the Thorny Valley People. Pawhuska means “white hair” in Sioux, and the chief was given this nickname after attempting to scalp a British officer wearing a white wig.

4. P-Town Pizza And Charlie’s Sweet Shop

If you prefer wood-fired pizza to spicy Dr. Pepper pork, then cross Kihekah Avenue and walk about a block to P-Town Pizza. Added to the Pioneer Woman portfolio in 2018, this stop is a great place to pair a pizza pie with a signature cocktail. Top off your meal with a layered dessert jar.

Or, if ice cream is more your style, mosey over to Charlie’s Sweet Shop. Named after the Drummonds’ beloved basset hound, who passed away in 2017, and housed in the same building as the Pioneer Woman’s pizzeria, Charlie’s serves scoops and sundaes guaranteed to satisfy every sweet tooth.

Pro Tip: All of the Pioneer Woman’s ventures are closed on Sundays, so plan accordingly when you visit Pawhuska!

5. Visit The Lodge On Drummond Ranch

For a behind-the-scenes glimpse at Food Network’s The Pioneer Woman, visit The Lodge. Located at the Drummond Ranch, the family’s guest house doubles as the set where Ree films her show.

Visit The Merc in downtown Pawhuska to request lodge tour tickets. Available dates are published on The Pioneer Woman Mercantile website.

Pro Tip: If you’re visiting Pawhuska with a four-legged friend, be sure to find a safe place for them to stay before heading to The Lodge as pets are not allowed on the ranch.

6. Bunk Down At The Boarding House

If you plan to spend the night in Pawhuska, check out The Pioneer Woman Boarding House. This eight-room hotel, wrapped in cowboy luxury, is located in downtown Pawhuska just north of The Mercantile.

Originally The Indian Silk Shop, this century-old red brick building was also a J. C. Penney department store. Today, each generously sized room (they average 670 square feet) is thematically decorated, providing guests with a unique lodging experience. Soak in the clawfoot bathtub lit by a crystal chandelier in the Boudoir Room or enjoy the views of downtown Pawhuska from the Prairie Room. And if you need a room that is ADA accessible, book your stay in the Photograph Room, which is accented with Ree’s beautiful photos.

Other Things To Do In And Around Pawhuska

To fully embrace Pawhuska from a variety of perspectives — from the Native American to the homesteading pioneer woman or even the present-day celebrity — here are some additional things to do during your visit.

Visit the Osage Nation Museum. Housed in a brick chapel built in 1872, this small but very well-done museum presents the history, culture, and art of the Osage Nation. It is the oldest tribally owned museum in the United States.

The Osage County Historical Society Museum provides insight into pioneer life, the early days of the oil industry, the chilling Osage murders, and the area’s connection to the Boy Scouts of America.

Born on the Osage Indian Reservation, Ben Johnson was an Academy Award-winning actor, legendary stunt double, and world-champion rodeo cowboy from Oklahoma. Learn more about his life (and experience first-hand just how hard it is to rope a steer) at The Ben Johnson Cowboy Museum.

If you love puffy fry bread layered with taco toppings, then plan your trip to Pawhuska around the National Indian Taco Championship.

While millions of acres of tallgrass prairie once covered the central region of North America, less than 4 percent of this unique ecosystem remains. Visit the Joseph H. Williams Tallgrass Prairie Preserve, about 20 minutes north of downtown Pawhuska, to take in the beauty of the largest protected remnant of tallgrass prairie left on earth. Watch for free-roaming bison, white-tailed deer, coyotes, and bobcats along with a variety of plants, birds, and insects.

7 Best Stops On Illinois’ Scenic Great River Road

The Mississippi River makes up the entire western border of Illinois. If you want to cross over into Iowa or Missouri, you have to cross a bridge over the Mighty Mississippi. Along the entire river, you will find the Great River Road, a series of roads along the Mississippi that run from the far northwestern corner of the state (near the Iowa and Wisconsin borders) to the far southern tip of the state (near the Missouri and Kentucky borders).

This is all part of a National Scenic Byway that encompasses the Great River Road along the entire length of the Mississippi River from northern Minnesota to southern Louisiana. For this trip, we’re going to concentrate on the Illinois portion. And while the Great River Road does extend all the way to Galena to the north of the state and Cairo to the south, we’re going to focus on the middle portion. Our road trip will take us from the Quad Cities to St. Louis.

We’ll cross the river several times. In fact, both of the metropolitan areas we’ll visit at the beginning and the end of our trip will span both sides of the river. In the Quad Cities, two of the four cities are in Illinois and the other two are in Iowa. And in St. Louis, 700,000 of the 2.9 million residents in the metropolitan area reside in Illinois.

Let’s start our trip from the north, in the Quad Cities.

Aerial view of Davenport, Iowa. — Eduardo Medrano / Shutterstock

1. Quad Cities

The region is called the Quad Cities because of the four main cities that make up the metropolitan area:

Bettendorf, Iowa
Davenport, Iowa
Rock Island, Illinois
Moline, Illinois

All in all, this area has a combined population of around 380,000 people, so you’ll find plenty to do. There are many great hotels in this area, so the Quad Cities can easily be a multi-day stop on your trip.

Davenport, Iowa, is the largest of the Quad Cities, so it makes a great starting point. Our plan is to cross the Centennial Bridge over the Mississippi River from Davenport to Rock Island in order to begin our trip, so Davenport is probably the best place to find lodging, too.

As far as things to do in the area, I couldn’t do better than fellow TravelAwaits writer Tim Trudell’s nine unique things to do in the Quad Cities, from Mississippi River cruises to visiting the original American Pickers antique store. Take your time going through that list, and then let’s get started on our trip.

Great River Bridge crossing Mississippi River in Burlington, Iowa — Great River Bridge (Photo Credit: Erin Cogswell / Shutterstock.com)

2. Burlington, Iowa

Our first stop will actually take us off of the Great River Road and back across the Mississippi. We’ll be driving down the Illinois side of the river the entire time, but once you get to Gladstone, Illinois, take Highway 34 to the west, cross the Great River Bridge, and discover the river town of Burlington, Iowa.

Burlington is best known for Snake Alley, a winding street that zig-zags down from the top of the river bluff down close to the river. It’s very similar to Lombard Street in San Francisco in that you enter from the top and take the long, winding route down to the bottom. Once per year there’s also a bicycle race here, and the competitors (somehow) climb Snake Alley as part of the route.

But there’s much more to do in Burlington than just drive this famous street. There’s a vibrant downtown, great restaurants, a casino, and much more. There’s also a great park — Mosquito Park — with incredible views of the river.

The rebuilt LDS temple in Nauvoo, Illinois. — Krysta Hastings / Shutterstock

3. Nauvoo, Illinois

From Burlington, go back across the river and follow the signs for the Great River Road again. You’re going to travel about a half hour to Nauvoo. And if you don’t know the history of Nauvoo, get ready to be surprised.

At one end of the downtown area sits a massive (and I mean massive) church building. It is the rebuilt LDS temple, which reflects the history of the area. Before Brigham Young led the Mormons on a trek to Utah, the church was headquartered in Nauvoo. In fact, in 1844, Nauvoo was one of the largest cities in Illinois. After the death of church founder Joseph Smith, Young led the Mormons to Utah, and the town of Nauvoo would never be the same size again. In fact, today, its population is one-sixth what it was at that time.

But the history remains. Houses from that era have been restored and are available for tours. The reconstructed church is available for tours as well. And there’s a small downtown area surrounding all of the historical buildings.

Believe me, Nauvoo will surprise you. You’ve been driving through numerous small river towns, you enter another small river town, and here sits a massive church building overlooking the river valley below. It’s quite amazing.

The town of Quincy, lllinois. — Clay Venvertloh / Shutterstock

4. Quincy, Illinois

Next you’ll follow the Great River Road to the south for about an hour until you get to Quincy, Illinois. This is one of the larger towns we’ll visit with a population north of 40,000. But it still has a small-town feel that you’ll find in most river towns in this area.

The best recommendations I can give here have been compiled by the local convention and visitors bureau (CVB). Many people road trip through the area, so the local CVB has developed several driving tours for you to utilize during your visit. They’ve included everything from art drives (so you can see all the local murals) to eagle drives (with recommendations on the best places to see the area’s bald eagles). Check out this webpage to see all of the driving tours.

5. Louisiana, Missouri

We’re going to cross the river again, this time to go into Missouri. As you’re travelling south from Quincy on the Great River Road (which is Highway 96 in this location), turn west on Highway 54 and take it approximately six miles until you cross the river. Once you cross the river, you’ll come to a stop sign. Turn left, and this will take you right to downtown Louisiana.

Georgia Street is the main drag in Louisiana. And it’s quite long for a town of only 3,200. Louisiana is similar to many other river towns we’ve been through, with antique stores, ice cream shops, and knick-knack stores dotting either side of the street. Take some time and explore some of the side streets as well — Louisiana is known for its great old Victorian homes.

You can also visit the oldest fruit tree nursery in the United States — Stark Bros. Their property is quite unique. It’s a place you simply have to see to appreciate.

Pere Marquette State Park during fall in Grafton, IL — Pere Marquette State Park (Photo Credit: Michael12345 / Shutterstock.com)

6. Grafton, Illinois

Grafton is the smallest town we’re visiting on our road trip. But it has just as many things to do for a road-tripper as many of the larger cities. Because this link of the Great River Road (which goes from Grafton south to Alton, Illinois) is the most well-known, Grafton attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year.

My favorite spot in Grafton, Pere Marquette State Park, is just to the north of town. Make sure to check out the lodge. It was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression and features everything you’d expect in a lodge from that era — massive timbers, a giant stone fireplace, and incredible views. If it’s not being used, make sure to play chess in the lobby with the life-size chess pieces. There are also trails at Pere Marquette with some of the best views in the entire region, but be aware that many of the climbs on these hikes are very steep. You’re basically climbing the bluffs above the river. There is an option to drive to the top and walk to some of the overlooks.

Back in town, enjoy all of the shops along the main drag in Grafton. This is a day-trip destination for many St. Louisians, so expect lots of people and crowded restaurants. Make sure to stop at Grafton Fudge And Ice Cream for a sweet treat.

Downtown St. Louis, Missouri. — f11photo / Shutterstock

7. St. Louis, Missouri

This is our final destination. We’ll get to some things to do in a moment, but this first part is the most important. To me, the most scenic part of the entire Great River Road — and I’ve driven all of it from Galena to Cairo — is the section of the Great River Road just south of Grafton between Grafton and Alton. In fact, if you do an image search for “Great River Road Illinois,” nearly every photo will be of this section. You’ll be driving right next to the river — so close that this portion of the road is often closed when the river is high — with massive white cliffs hovering above. Trust me, of the driving portion, this will be the highlight of the trip. Have your camera ready.

Once you pass through Alton, you can take the Clark Bridge across the river into the St. Louis area. St. Louis is where I spent most of my life, so I could give you paragraph after paragraph of things to do in the area. But I don’t think I could do any better than some of the articles we’ve already published on the topic.

Consider these 12 things you have to do when you’re in St. Louis, visit these 11 excellent hidden gems, and, if you’re hungry for ribs, take my advice on how to do a delicious St. Louis rib crawl. It’s the perfect end to a great drive.

9 Best Cafes To Experience In Paris

The backbone of French culture and society, the cafe is an essential part of everyday life in Paris. You will find the familiar and comforting sight of wicker cafe chairs uniformly lining the sidewalks on almost every street corner of Paris. Inside, you will find the traditional zinc bar, where locals sip their strong coffee, straight up, one shot at a time.

No visit to Paris would be complete without spending a few hours in a cafe, so we’ve handpicked our favorites. Some are classic cafes, others have become modern institutions, and we make a few off-the-beaten-track recommendations as well.

Cafe de Flore in Paris. — Petr Kovalenkov / Shutterstock

1. Cafe De Flore

Once the fiefdom for the Paris literary set in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Cafe de Flore, in its heyday of the 1940s and 1950s, was the second home to legendary intellectual figures Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, and Albert Camus. Because it was so difficult to find apartments after WWII, many writers lived in minuscule hotel rooms, and Cafe de Flore would serve as their extended canteen, where they would eat, drink, and later establish the existentialist movement.

Today, Cafe de Flore is still a local legend and always bustling. Coffee is served in their signature white porcelain cups with their forest green insignia along with delicate milk pitchers. There’s a small gift shop on the lower level, so you can take home a souvenir cup and saucer, or the ultimate souvenir is a paper tablecloth illustrated by beloved artist Sempe.

The legend of Cafe de Flore comes at a price, so it’s best to have just a coffee or drink because food items here tend to be a lot more expensive than they are at other cafes.

Les Deux Magots in Paris. — Petr Kovalenkov / Shutterstock

2. Les Deux Magots

Sometimes considered the rival literary cafe to Cafe de Flore, Les Deux Magots is another legend in its own right. Occupying its rightful spot on Place Saint-Germain, the cafe holds just as much historical significance as the Saint Germain des Pres church across the street, which is the oldest in Paris and dates back to 545. Frequented by artists, poets, and writers such as Hemingway, Picasso, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, and Alice B. Toklas in the 1920s and 1930s, Les Deux Magots retains its literary stature by giving out an annual new-writer prize.

Nowadays, Les Deux Magots is a tourist magnet but is still highly regarded by Parisians. You can spot a typical Parisian: someone who’s taking their time, reading a newspaper, and sometimes has their dog alongside.

The pastry cart is quite impressive, and another crowd-pleaser is the dark, rich hot chocolate that’s so thick you may have trouble lifting your spoon out of it.

3. KB Cafe Shop

At the opposite end of the spectrum from the classic Paris cafes, KB Cafe serves its own brand of artisanal coffee and is more in line with contemporary, global cafes that take the quality and taste of their coffee seriously — maybe more so than the cafe experience itself. Located on a busy corner of Southern Pigalle right below Montmartre, KB Cafe imports and roasts its own beans from Ethiopia, Columbia, Guatemala, and Indonesia and creates its own signature blends. Iced coffee options are also available, which is a rarity in France.

KB Cafe also has a fresh juice bar, teas, house-made cakes, pastries, and scones, and, at lunch time, freshly made sandwiches.

exterior of Cafe Le Nemours in Paris — Cafe Le Nemours (Photo Credit: LongJon / Shutterstock.com)

4. Cafe Le Nemours

Location, location, location is what Cafe Le Nemours is all about. Situated in the open-air Place Colette, which is named after the French author who wrote Gigi, Cafe Le Nemours faces the striking, neoclassical columns of the Comedie Francaise, the most famous theater in France, which presents classic French plays. It’s also parallel to the formidable Louvre and has a view of the whimsical, metro kiosk of gem-colored glass globes designed by contemporary artist Jean Michel Othoniel.

Le Cafe Nemours is a treat for people watching, as the crowd greatly varies with people from all walks of life, from the fashionably dressed French women who stop for lunch after shopping in the designer boutiques on the nearby rue Saint-Honore to backpackers having breakfast to well-groomed businessmen in their close-tailored suits.

The croque monsieurs are excellent as are the main course salads, which include Nicoise, a veggie salad with quinoa, and a platter of farm-fresh cheeses.

A piece of fun film trivia: Cafe Le Nemours was the setting of the opening scene of the hit 2010 movie The Tourist, starring Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp.

Macarons in Cafe Carette in Paris. — kawaiiphoto / Shutterstock

5. Cafe Carette

With two locations in prized viewing spots, the Cafe Carette on Place Trocadero is the ideal place to best view the Eiffel Tower and to enjoy the Paris cafe experience.

A hybrid of a tea salon, cafe, and restaurant, Cafe Carette has an extensive menu with pastries, sandwiches, main course salads, and French staples such as quiche, onion soup, foie gras, and beef Bourguignon. Unlike many Paris restaurants, the portion sizes are more than generous, so if your order a salad or sandwich, it may be ample food for two people to share.

What makes Cafe Carette stand out from a typical cafe is the impeccable presentation using Limoges china, starched, white napkins and tablecloths, and high-quality flatware.

Pro Tip: Visit Cafe Carette after dark, when the lights on the Eiffel Tower sparkle every hour on the hour for five minutes.

The second location of Cafe Carette is on the historical 17th-century Place des Vosges, the oldest square in Paris.

Shakespeare and Company in Paris. — Christian Bertrand / Shutterstock

6. Shakespeare And Company

The provenance of writers James Joyce, Hemingway, and Gertrude Stein in the early 1920s, Shakespeare and Company, a stone’s throw from Notre Dame, is the oldest and most beloved English bookstore in Paris. Sylvia Beach, the original owner, was the namesake of the current owner, Sylvia Whitman, who took over the shop after her father died in 2011.

Seeking to bring the bookshop into the 21st century without marring its original ambiance, she opened a cafe next door. Just as rustic as the bookshop, the menu is akin to a California cafe, serving bagels, carrot cake, vegetarian sandwiches, and smoothies. The cafe also features a juice bar.

Make sure to leave time to browse the bookshop.

Le Select in Paris. — Petr Kovalenkov / Shutterstock

7. Le Select

Called “the soul of Montparnasse” by Ernest Hemingway, Le Select is another cafe steeped in history. Much like its cultural counterpart, Saint-Germain-des-Pres, the Montparnasse quarter was a magnet for artists, writers, and poets from the 1920s to the 1940s. Hemingway was known to spend hours on end at Le Select, writing his soon-to-be masterpieces, and F. Scott Fitzgerald, Henry Miller, Picasso, and Chagall were also loyal customers.

Le Select is a combined cafe and brasserie, and besides serving typical cafe fare such as croissants, coffee, and baguettes with butter and jam, the menu also offers escargot, charcuterie and cheese plates, omelets, duck confit, and steak frites. There’s an expanded drink menu with aperitifs, cocktails, Champagne, and a selection of rum, cognac, tequila, gin, and whiskey cocktails.

8. Ten Belles

An uber popular cafe near the trendy Canal Saint-Martin, Ten Belles was opened in 2012 by three partners: Alice Quillet, Anselme Blayney, and Anna Trattles. Ten Belles, a cozy cafe with just nine tables, is now a fixture in the neighborhood, attracting locals like bees to honey. Their top-quality coffee from Guatemala and Ethiopia is roasted just outside of Paris. The cafe offers cakes and pastries and a limited lunch menu. If there’s no room to sit in the cafe, take your coffee to go and stroll over to the scenic Canal Saint-Martin to enjoy it.

Ten Belles has two other locations in Paris, and one of them is a bread bakery.

diners at Le Cafe Marly view the Lourve — Le Cafe Marly (Photo Credit: Owen Franken via Getty Images)

9. Cafe Marly

A luxury cafe located on an extended outdoor terrace of the Louvre, Cafe Marly has a formidable view of the Louvre courtyard encompassing the museum, the glass pyramid, and the mini Arc de Triomphe or Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. Cushy lounges, booths, and club chairs that are covered in crisp, white canvas line the terrace of towering limestone columns and mosaic tile floors.

Cafe Marly offers a full lunch and dinner menu of French and international cuisine, plus a long cocktail, drink, coffee, and tea menu.

Enjoy a cocktail while watching the sunset over the pyramid.

Pro Tip

Unlike cafes and coffee shops in the U.S., which now have endless variations on the coffee menu, in France, there are four basic ways coffee is offered.

Cafe is an espresso.
Cafe au lait or cafe creme is coffee with steamed milk, similar to cappuccino but with less foam.
Cafe noisette is an espresso with just a bit of milk foam on top, similar to a macchiato.
Cafe allonge or cafe Americano is espresso diluted with hot water, served in a large cup. The flavor is on par with American-style coffee.

Most cafes serve decaf versions of these variations, and English is spoken at almost every cafe.

Does imagining the delicious bitterness of good coffee have you pining for a sweet treat? Take your caffeine to go and head for the shops of these five superb pastry chefs and chocolatiers in Paris.

A Road Trip Through The Sierra Nevadas: Pasadena To Lake Tahoe

Few states offer as many scenic road trips as California. Whether you follow the ocean along Highway 1 or head inland to appreciate the mountains and desert, you could spend a lifetime exploring the Golden State. Add in the bordering states of Utah, Nevada, and Arizona, and the road-trip options are endless.

The beauty of road trips is their flexibility. When you fly to a destination, you are limited by strict schedules. But a road trip allows you to adjust to whatever amount of time you have, be it a few days or several weeks. It also allows as many — or as few — stops as you wish. You can see every roadside attraction possible, or just hit the highlights.

This trip starts in California and ends in Nevada. You’ll take in the stunning scenery of the Eastern Sierra Nevada mountain range along Highway 395. The stops recommended here are just a few of many to consider, but they are definitely worth your time.

The Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical Gardens. — Roka / Shutterstock

Pasadena

Pasadena is a destination in and of itself, so if you have time at the beginning of your road trip, allow a day or two in the home of the Rose Parade.

A highlight of Pasadena is The Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical Gardens. With 130 acres of gardens, 42,000 works of art, and 11 million items in the library, this institution has something for everyone. Kids can run across the expansive lawn while adults appreciate the Old Masters paintings and illuminated manuscripts. Part of the art collection is housed in the mansion built by Henry Edwards Huntington in the early 20th century.

If you’re in the mood to shop and stroll, head to Old Town Pasadena. You’ll find a wide variety of boutiques, department stores, cafes, and restaurants, many housed in turn-of-the-century brick buildings.

Space geeks will want to tour NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory, home to planetary robotic spacecraft. Tours include a multimedia presentation and visits to the Earth Science Center and Spacecraft Assembly Facility. Tours are offered just one day a week, so be sure to make your reservation far in advance.

Pasadena has a large selection of hotels. One of the most popular and centrally located is the Westin Pasadena. For something historic, consider staying at the five-star Langham Huntington. A more affordable but comfortable option is the Holiday Inn Express & Suites.

Red Rock Canyon State Park

After leaving Pasadena, you’ll arrive at Red Rock Canyon State Park in under 2 hours. The park is at the southernmost tip of the Sierra Nevada mountains, a range that extends 400 miles along the eastern edge of California.

Red Rock offers colorful badlands, cliffs, and canyons. For almost a hundred years, paleontologists have been excavating this area, making discoveries about the humans and animals who have lived here. If time is limited, just take a scenic drive through the park. But if you’d like to delve deeper, then head out on one of the trails for a hike.

Lone Pine

Western movie lovers will definitely want to stop in Lone Pine, about 90 minutes away from Red Rock. This small town is home to fewer than 2,000 residents, but odds are you’ve seen this area in a number of movies, television shows, and commercials over the years.

To learn about the movie industry in and around Lone Pine, head to the Museum of Western Film History, where you’ll find memorabilia from dozens of Western movies. Or take the self-guided tour of the Alabama Hills, where hundreds of movies were filmed.

If you started your journey early in the morning, you’ll probably be hungry by now, so grab some lunch at the Alabama Hills Cafe & Bakery.

Manzanar National Historic Site

Just outside Lone Pine is the Manzanar National Historic Site, a sobering reminder of the treatment of Japanese-American citizens during World War II. This was one of 10 internment camps built to house Japanese men, women, and children from 1942 until 1945.

Most of the camp was destroyed, but the visitor center offers several excellent exhibits detailing how the camps came into existence as well as the depressing conditions under which people lived. There is also a self-guided driving tour outlining the layout of the camp. Along the way, a few buildings have been recreated to give visitors a better sense of life in the camp.

Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest

Getting to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest is an adventure, but it’s worth it to see the oldest living organisms on the planet, the bristlecone pines. The oldest tree is believed to be 5,070 years old! While the great sequoias are far more familiar to people, the bristlecone pines are 2,000 years older.

Many people will head to the Schulman Grove Visitor Center to learn more about the forest. But be prepared for a long and winding drive that takes at least an hour after leaving Highway 395 and reaches an elevation of almost 10,000 feet. You can continue farther into the forest on an unpaved road if you’d like to see the Patriarch, the largest of the bristlecone pines in the forest.

Convict Lake

Just south of Mammoth Lakes, Convict Lake is one of the most scenic bodies of water in the Eastern Sierras. The deep blue water is surrounded by snow-capped peaks, including Mount Morrison.

The lake got its name from a group of escaped convicts who were trapped here by a posse in 1871. The surrounding mountain peaks were named for the fallen posse members. Today the lake is a popular recreation area for boating, fishing, and hiking. You’ll find dining and lodging nearby as well.

Mammoth Lakes

If you’re looking for an overnight stop along your road trip, Mammoth Lakes is the ideal destination. In the winter, this town is full of skiers and snowboarders, but summer brings hikers, boaters, and campers. So no matter when you visit, there will be plenty to do.

A great way to get the lay of the land is to start at the Mammoth Lakes Welcome Center. Volunteers can help you plan a day — or even a weekend — in and around town. You’ll also get information about the geology and wildlife of the area.

If you don’t have much time, head to The Village at Mammoth. This outdoor shopping center offers a selection of boutiques and restaurants, so it can be a nice place to grab a meal along the route. Also located in this area are two nice lodging options, The Village Lodge and The Westin Monache Resort.

If you have more time, consider taking a hike. There are hundreds of trails in the area ranging in distance and difficulty. Or rent a kayak and enjoy the mountain views from the water. Lake Mary, Lake George, and June Lake all offer boat rentals.

Devil’s Postpile National Monument

Next to Mammoth Lakes is Devil’s Postpile National Monument, an unusual rock formation made of columnar basalt that is believed to have been created by lava flow less than 100,000 years ago. From the visitor center, there are a couple of short hikes, one to the top of the rock formation and the other to the bottom.

Another popular destination within the area is Rainbow Falls, a waterfall on the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River. The John Muir Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail merge as they pass through the monument.

It’s important to know that visitors may only enter the monument on a shuttle bus that can be accessed at The Village at Mammoth. To avoid crowds, catch the earliest shuttle of the day.

Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve

After leaving Mammoth Lakes, head north for 30 minutes, and you’ll arrive at Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve. This large saline soda lake is over a million years old. Dotting the lake are “tufa towers,” calcium-carbonate spires formed by the interaction of freshwater springs with the alkaline lake water. The unusual conditions of the lake attract more than 80 species of birds each year.

Start your visit at the visitor center, which provides helpful information about the lake and the wildlife. From there, you can also get an overview of the water. Then follow the directions to the waterfront to get an up-close view of the tufas.

Bodie State Historic Park

Most of the stops on this journey have been natural wonders, but now it’s time to appreciate something man-made: a gold-mining ghost town. At one time, Bodie State Historic Park was home to 10,000 residents. Today it’s preserved in “arrested decay” so that visitors can appreciate what life was like there in the late 1800s. Legend says that in its heyday, there were 65 saloons operating.

You are welcome to explore on your own, or you can schedule a guided tour through the Bodie Foundation. If you’re feeling particularly brave, try the ghost tour, which includes a walk through the cemetery.

Lake Tahoe

Lake Tahoe can be a destination in and of itself or a great final stop on your road trip. Either way, this town has plenty to offer. But it’s practically a requirement for all visitors to get out on the water to appreciate North America’s largest alpine lake.

Boating is certainly one of the most popular activities in Lake Tahoe. Consider paddling a kayak close to the shore, piloting a powerboat to explore larger areas of the lake, or even balancing on water skis for a really adventurous afternoon. The High Sierra Waterski School rents a variety of boats and offers lessons.

If biking is more your speed, then get out on the Truckee River Bike Trail. This easy, paved trail runs for about 7 miles along the scenic Truckee River, making it ideal for families. Squaw Bikes rents cruisers, mountain bikes, and children’s bikes and can provide a map of trails in the area.

Hikers will want to check out the trails at Emerald Bay State Park, which offers some of the best views of Lake Tahoe. Two great options are the 4.5-mile Rubicon Peak Trail and the mile-long Vikingsholm Trail.

For accommodations in Lake Tahoe, consider the luxurious Resort at Squaw Creek or the family-friendly Northstar California Resort.

For more to see and do in the Lake Tahoe area, see this page.

Ideally a road trip through the Eastern Sierras should take place between the late spring and the fall. Some parts of this itinerary may be inaccessible during the winter due to heavy snowfall. Summer can be a lovely time in the area, but it will be busier when school is not in session. Whenever you choose to visit, you’ll discover a wealth of natural beauty you won’t soon forget.