14 Covered Bridges To Experience In Historic Bedford County, PA

Bedford County, Pennsylvania, is blessed with a rich history, a beautiful rural setting, and a multitude of covered bridges. Pennsylvania is the state with the most covered bridges in the nation with a total of 213, and there are 14 covered bridges around Bedford County alone.

I recently had the opportunity to take a driving tour of ten of the beautiful bridges.

Built approximately 150 years ago, craftsmen created the bridges almost entirely by hand. For the most part, they have stood the test of time, weather, and hard use from the horse and buggy days to the modern cars of the traveling public.

The bridges in historic Bedford County vary in length from the small 56-foot Palo Alto bridge located near Hyndman (this was not part of my driving tour) to the long 136-foot Herline Bridge close to Manns Choice.

Twelve of the 14 bridges are Burr Truss bridges. The designer, Theodore Burr, planned a set of trusses that interact with the arch spanning the length of the bridge. This created added strength to hold the bridges in place.

I followed the tour recommended by the Bedford County Visitors Bureau, which guides you to nine of the 14 bridges. You can find the tour here (PDF).

I also visited one other bridge in the county that was not part of the tour.

While the itinerary suggests you allow 90 minutes for the tour, it took us over four hours to complete the journey, plus an additional hour to visit another bridge. We did the tour in the order they suggested. We stopped at each bridge, got out, and looked around, took some pictures, and enjoyed the view. Then we moved on to the next bridge. I would plan at least four hours for the tour, and if you plan to stop for lunch, allow five hours. There are not many places to eat lunch since you are on country roads. We ate at the end of the tour.

The other bridges are a bit out of the way but worth the drive to see those that are public. Two are private, and you cannot view them close up, but you can still catch a glimpse of them.

The best time to take the Bedford County Covered Bridge tour is in the summer or fall. I would not even consider it in the winter due to ice and snowy conditions.

The driving tour starts at the Old Bedford Village in Bedford. As you enter the village, you will see your first covered bridge.

The Claycomb Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

1. Claycomb Covered Bridge

This bridge, owned by the county, was built in 1880 in Reynoldsdale. In 1975, it was moved to its current location. During the move, the Burr Truss design was reinforced with steel to support the heavier traffic of visitors to Old Bedford Village. The bridge is unpainted and cedar shakes cover the roof. Sitting on a poured concrete abutment, the bridge deck consists of cross-board planks, and it is totally enclosed.

You can drive across the bridge into the Old Bedford Village parking lot. There you’ll find a gift shop, and there is a tour if you have extra time.

The Bowser/Osterburg Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

2. Bowser/Osterburg Covered Bridge

Also a Burr Truss bridge, the Bowser/Osterburg bridge has horizontal bracing at the truss top level. Near Osterburg, it spans Bob’s Creek. Built in 1890, this bridge is not in use. A steel and concrete bridge replaced it in 1973. The bridge is owned by the county and preserved for viewing. There is a cable across the entrance to prohibit unsafe entry. This bridge sits on stone and mortar abutments and has vertical boards on the lower third.

The Snooks Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

3. Snooks Covered Bridge

Named after Jacob Snooks, this bridge is located near what used to be Snooks’s home. Another Burr Truss design built in 1882, it spans Dunning Creek. This bridge is located near Fishertown and is owned by the county.

The Snooks Bridge is open to vehicular traffic. As you follow the tour, you drive through the covered bridge.

The Dr. Knisely Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

4. Dr. Knisely Covered Bridge

The Dr. Knisely Covered Bridge crosses Dunning Creek along the main road near Pleasantville between Bedford and Johnstown. Vertical boards cover approximately a third of the sides, and it has horizontal boards inside. The 80-foot-long bridge sits on a stone and mortar abutment and has a metal roof. This bridge is no longer traversable and is privately owned.

The Ryot Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

5. Ryot Covered Bridge

A 2002 fire destroyed the original Ryot covered bridge. The structure was rebuilt and reopened to traffic in 2004. Named after a nearby town, the Ryot bridge is another Burr Truss design, and it also crosses Dunning Creek. Owned by the county, this 83.5-foot-long bridge sits on a stone and mortar abutment and is still drivable.

The Cuppetts Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

6. Cuppett’s Covered Bridge

Cuppett’s Covered Bridge is located near the town of New Paris. It is another Burr Truss design initially built on land owned by William and Phillip Cuppett.

This bridge is unique in that it has extremely low arches and open sides.

It is unpainted and has weathered naturally. Spanning Dunning Creek, this 60-foot-long bridge is not traversable, and it is privately owned.

I have to say this was my favorite bridge, I think because it wasn’t painted and just had natural beauty.

Gravity Hill, a unique spot in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

Bonus: Gravity Hill

Gravity Hill isn’t a covered bridge but a strange phenomenon that you might want to experience as you are doing the tour and way out in the country.

There is a spot marked on the road that tells you where to start. You put your car in neutral, and your car will start going uphill on its own. I didn’t believe it till it happened. And then I thought it was because of the direction I was driving, so I turned around and tried it in the opposite direction, and it still happened.

It is a real thrill when it takes you uphill backward and you are trying to steer to stay on the road, so pay attention.

If you drive a mile or so down the road, there is another place where the same thing happens. Go to the pole along the road with the number 69 on it, put your car in neutral, and your vehicle will go uphill on its own!

If in an RV or hauling a trailer, you may wish to skip the little experience because you won’t have room to turn around.

Now after your little diversion, back to the tour …

The Colvin Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

7. Colvin Covered Bridge

The Colvin Covered Bridge, built in 1866, was refurbished in 1997. The multiple king-post bridge rests on a concrete abutment. The bridge crosses Shawnee Creek near Schellsburg. This 66-foot-long bridge is county-owned, and you can travel across it.

Turner's Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

8. Turner’s Covered Bridge

This bridge is old and could use some work. The road to it is gravel, and there are a few ruts to deal with. You may think you are in someone’s driveway, but you are on the correct route.

Turner’s Covered Bridge is another Burr Truss bridge that is 89 feet long and has open sides with low side panels. Resting on stone abutments that have been reinforced with concrete, this bridge is drivable. Spanning the Raystown branch of the Juniata River near Manns Choice, it’s believed that this bridge was constructed around 1892.

Once you cross the bridge, it is a dead end. There is a place to turn around. Again, I’m not sure I would attempt this if in an RV or pulling a trailer. Space for turning is limited.

The Herline Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

9. Herline Covered Bridge

The Herline Covered Bridge is the longest of all of the covered bridges in Bedford County. The 136-foot-long bridge crosses the Raystown branch of the Juniata River north of Manns Choice. It is another Burr Truss design.

Originally built in 1902 and refurbished in 1996, it is owned by the state and is in excellent condition and is traversable.

This ends the tour the Bedford Visitor’s Center has mapped out. But there are other bridges in Bedford County you may want to view.

Hall’s Mill Covered Bridge in Bedford County. — Robin O’Neal Smith

10. Hall’s Mill Covered Bridge

I visited this bridge, and it is in a very scenic setting. The original bridge was built in 1860, and the current bridge was built in 1884 and refurbished some years ago. Hall’s Mill Covered Bridge is 97 feet in length and has a Burr Truss design.

Just off of Route 26, several miles north of Everett, the bridge crosses Yellow Creek and is drivable and in excellent condition. The County owns it, and it is one of the prettiest bridges available to view.

Other Bridges In Bedford County

These Bedford County bridges are also worth visiting.

11. Jackson’s Mill Covered Bridge

Near Breezewood, this is a very picturesque bridge that is traversable.

12. Hewitt Covered Bridge

South of Chaneysville, this bridge is traversable.

13. Felten’s Mills Covered Bridge

In the Breezewood area, this bridge is privately owned and not accessible. You can only view it from a distance.

14. Palo Alto Covered Bridge

South of Hyndman, this bridge is privately owned.

I enjoyed the Bedford County Covered Bridge Tour. If you like country roads and covered bridges, you will enjoy spending half a day on this self-guided driving tour.

If you want to print a copy of the mapped Bedford County Covered Bridge Driving Tour, you can find it here (PDF).

Pro Tips

Plan to take some snacks with you. As you go from bridge to bridge, you are on country roads that do not have convenience stores or fast food options.
If you are planning to get out and take pictures, et cetera, wear sturdy shoes. There are places where it isn’t flat, and there is gravel.
If going through the bridges on foot or bike, be aware there are mud wasp nests in some of them. They didn’t bother us, but just be aware they are there.
Be aware that two of the bridges listed on the tour are on private property. So they are either drive-by or what you can view from the main road pull-off.
I would not attempt this tour on a rainy day.
I would not attempt parts of this tour if in an RV or pulling a trailer. Turnaround space is limited for a few bridges, and one of the roads is in fair (not good or great) condition.
Read up on how to spend an amazing weekend in historic Bedford, PA, for additional inspiration.
Want more covered bridges? Take a look at these 25 perfect stops on Madison County’s Covered Bridges Scenic Byway.

7 World War II Sites To Visit In Bastogne, Belgium

Bastogne, a small town in southern Belgium, sits in rolling farmland, surrounded by stands of the Ardennes forest. It likely would have remained unknown to the world, but Bastogne suffered the misfortune of being caught in the Battle of the Bulge, one of the largest land battles of World War II. When you visit this lovely Belgian area, you can learn more about what took place here in the winter of 1944 to 1945.

Just a few months earlier in September of 1944, the Allies liberated Bastogne. Residents settled in for a time of calm as the war wound down. Then, in mid-December, the Germans struck. Their goal was the Port of Antwerp, and when they failed to take Bastogne on their way, they forged ahead around it to create the “bulge.” Still, the Germans needed this town. Bastogne lies at the center of seven roads, and these were crucial for moving troops and supplies. One by one, the roads fell to German control. By December 21, the American troops in Bastogne were surrounded. With cloudy skies making airdrops impossible, the troops were stuck with little ammunition, food, winter clothing, or medical supplies.

Against the odds, American soldiers held the entire perimeter through attack after attack. When you visit Bastogne, you’ll learn the story of what happened here that winter. You’ll walk the town streets and the forest paths. You’ll understand more clearly the bravery and courage of the men and women caught in that fierce struggle.

Here are a number of World War II sites to visit in Bastogne.

The Mardasson Memorial in Bastogne. — T.W. van Urk / Shutterstock

1. Bastogne War Museum And Mardasson Memorial

The newly updated Bastogne War Museum offers interactive exhibits focused on World War II and specifically the Battle of the Bulge. The goal is “total history immersion” for the visitor. The museum is a good place to start your visit, as it gives you an overview of Bastogne during the war.

The artifacts and scenes from wartime are fascinating. But most moving are the video testimonies you’ll hear from eyewitnesses of the Battle of the Bulge. Some of these people were children at the time and witnessed the war from their homes. Some were in the military, far from home. You can’t help but imagine how you would have reacted and felt during those uncertain days.

An indoor/outdoor cafe provides sandwiches and snacks. The gift shop stocks books, hats, and toys. I found a patch of my dad’s World War II army unit here — a perfect souvenir.

The beautiful Mardasson Memorial sits just outside the Bastogne War Museum. The star-shaped memorial honors the American soldiers who were wounded or killed during the Battle of the Bulge. Names of the states and battalion insignias decorate the memorial. Walk through the atrium in the star’s center, and then climb the stairs to the top of the memorial for a sweeping view of the town and surrounding forest.

The museum is open daily except on Mondays. Allow 2 hours to visit the museum and about a half hour to see the Mardasson Memorial.

The Sherman tank in McAuliffe Square. — Sharon Odegaard

2. McAuliffe Square

The main square of the town is easy to find and worth a visit. It’s named for General Anthony McAuliffe, the leader of the Allied troops who defended Bastogne in 1944. Not only will you find a bust of the general here, but a Sherman tank that was damaged in the battle stands guard at the edge of the square.

Restaurants line the square, including the Nuts Cafe, named for one of the battle’s most interesting stories. When the Germans encircled the town in December of 1944, they sent men to McAuliffe’s headquarters to ask him to surrender within 2 hours, as his situation seemed hopeless. His famous one-word reply? “Nuts!” And so, the Germans returned to their lines without a surrender. Morale among the beleaguered American troops soared after they heard of this gutsy reply that’s gone down in history.

The Nuts Cafe serves tasty food — and paper cups full of nuts.

Foxholes at the Bois Jacques. — Sharon Odegaard

3. Bois Jacques

This is the woods where the Easy Company of the 101st Airborne Division dug in. The 101st Airborne spread out in a thin line all around Bastogne, but the Bois Jacques is the place where you can still see some of their foxholes. This land, protected since 2017, can’t be cleared or bulldozed.

Look for two memorials in this area. One is on the Bizory-Foy Road before you enter the forested area. This memorial honors the Easy Company and is titled “May the world never forget.” The inscription reads, “The circumstances were dreadful, with constant mortar, rocket and artillery fire, snowfall, and temperatures below -28 Celsius at night with little food and ammunition. The field hospital had been captured, so little medical help was available.”

During the Easy Company’s grueling time in Bastogne, 14 men were killed, 32 were wounded, and another 21 were evacuated due to cold-weather illnesses.

A memorial at the Bois Jacques. — Sharon Odegaard

The other memorial in this area is at the entrance to the woods. It was put up in 2015 to honor the courage and heroism of the American troops who fought in the Ardennes during the winter of 1944 to 1945.

The Bois Jacques is the perfect place in Bastogne to pay your respects to all the men who held on despite adversity to the town’s crucial crossroads. This is truly hallowed ground.

The 101st Airborne Memorial in Belgium. — Sharon Odegaard

4. 101st Airborne Museum

Located in a former Belgian Army officers’ mess, the 101st Airborne Museum is a gem. The historic building is small enough that you feel like you are visiting someone’s home. Extensive collections of military artifacts from the 101st are displayed, along with helpful maps. The window scenes of the war are life-sized and transport you to the Bastogne of the 1940s.

The opportunity to participate in a bombing raid was the most memorable part of the visit for me. Downstairs, a large area was transformed into an air raid shelter. A recording of an actual bombing played while we sat in the darkened room and felt the room shake from the blasting. A baby cried, and people shouted. It was an amazing immersive experience.

5. Home Of Renee LeMaire, The Angel Of Bastogne

Renee LeMaire, known as the Angel of Bastogne, was a nurse killed in the bombing on Christmas Eve of 1944 while tending to wounded Allies. Her devotion to the suffering soldiers is portrayed in the Band of Brothers series.

Her childhood home is today Giorgi, an Italian restaurant and hotel on the corner of McAuliffe Square. The medical station where LeMaire served was nearby on the main street of town. The building took a direct hit during the bombing. Later, friends carried her body around the corner to her parents’ home.

Take in history while you eat at this restaurant. While those around you may be unaware of the history of the former house, you will know that an angel once lived there.

The town of Foy in Belgium. — Jean-Pol GRANDMONT / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.5)

6. Foy

Drive to the outskirts of northern Bastogne to visit the town of Foy. This is where the Easy Company fought after General George Patton broke through with his tanks to relieve them from their post at Bastogne. In the Band of Brothers series, the seventh episode covers the battle for Foy, which took place in January of 1945.

Today, this sleepy country town looks much the same as it did during the war. People hid in the cellars of their homes during the battle. The building where a sniper shot from a high window still stands, bullet holes and all. The yard the young soldier Frank Perconte ran through and got shot in his rear end looks just the same.

The forest on the edge of the town is where the Allies dug in before the battle. You can still see signs of the foxholes and will better understand the perspective of the Allies as they planned how to liberate Foy.

A Liberty Road Marker in Belgium. — Sharon Odegaard

7. Liberty Road Marker

Liberty Road Markers trace the path through Europe taken by the American troops, starting with the landing in Normandy, France, and ending in Bastogne. A French mayor worked with General Patton to design the project. From Utah Beach to Bastogne, these white markers with the red flame of liberty stand at every kilometer and number 1,147 in all. Look for the final marker of this long trail at the intersection of Rue de Clervaux and Route de Bizory near the Bastogne War Museum.

What To Know Before You Go

While you can visit the museums on your own, I highly recommend a guided tour of the battlegrounds and the town of Foy. You can find the foxholes on your own, but with a tour guide you will hear fascinating stories as well. I spent a day with historian Reg Jans of Battlefield Experience. He has led tours for veterans returning to Bastogne and talked with them about their experiences here. They are gone now, but you can hear their memories by touring with a local like Jans. It’s these stories that make the events of Bastogne come alive.

I recommend preparing for your visit by watching the superb Band of Brothers series by Tom Hanks and Stephen Spielberg. The sixth and seventh episodes cover the events of World War II in Bastogne.

The echoes of the past are everywhere in Bastogne. And by remembering, we keep alive those lost too soon. Walk in the footsteps of the soldiers, medical helpers, and townspeople. You will certainly never forget this experience.

9 Best Places To Go Camping In Iowa

Iowa is my home state and it is home to some of America’s most beautiful campgrounds. It’s also unique in that it has many different landscapes. You can find rolling hills, cliffs, flatlands, and bluffs that will stick in your mind for quite some time. Camping is one of the easiest ways to enjoy the great outdoors in Iowa. Each of these campgrounds has something unique to offer, and I can guarantee that you will have an enjoyable camping trip. Most importantly, remember that camping comes in many ways, shapes, and forms. I hope you will be inspired to invest in a camping trip, as it’s an easy and affordable way to embrace the beauty of Iowa. These campgrounds all offer some of the best camping in Iowa.

1. McIntosh Woods State Park

Ventura

McIntosh Woods is one of Iowa’s premier state parks and is home to one of the best campgrounds in the state of Iowa. It is located along the shores of Clear Lake, which is a popular lake for fishing and outdoor water sports. With 49 campsites and a modern restroom and shower building, you will find a campsite that is right for you. We have camped here several times through the years with a travel trailer and site 27 is one of our favorites. It’s a reservable campsite in a quiet loop that offers a nice shaded area.

For a unique camping experience, book a stay in a yurt. These are traditional dwellings like the nomadic people of central Asia stay in. There are two yurts in the campground, and they both have a view of the lake. They come with a full-size futon, twin bunk beds, and a table with chairs. Bring your own bedding as you would for any camping experience. Ventura is approximately 30 miles south of the Minnesota border, right off of I-35. For more inspiration on what to do in the area, read up on why Clear Lake, Iowa, is worth a visit.

2. Margaret MacNider Campground

Mason City

The Margaret MacNider Campground is located near East Park in Mason City. There are 20 full hookup sites including sewer, water, and electrical; 55 campsites offer water and electricity; and 20 sites are reserved for tent camping. This campground is also home to a large shower house that serves as a storm shelter. It’s located next to the Mason City Family Aquatic Center as well as the nature experiences available in East Park. Campsites are not reservable; everything’s first come, first served, but with 95 camping sites, you should find a site that meets your needs. Most campsites have shade, but some are less shady and located near smaller trees.

Be sure to visit the gardens in East Park, which are a short walk from the campground. During the summer months, the gardens are in full bloom and are stunning. Volunteers keep it beautiful all season long. Don’t forget to take a selfie in the “photo frame” near the gardens.

3. Ledges State Park

Madrid

Ledges State Park is home to numerous hiking trails that go up and down the valleys that lead to panoramic views. It is home to some of the best camping in Iowa. We have stayed there several times and have always appreciated the deep, forested area that the campground sits in. There are electric and nonelectric campsites as well as hiking and group camping sites. Site 37 is our preferred level camping site for our 21-foot travel trailer and truck. Pack your favorite hiking boots as this campground is home to some of the best hiking experiences in Iowa. We also enjoy riding our bicycles around this campground and into the state park. This campground is located right outside the main entrance to the state park and approximately 40 miles north of Des Moines.

Camping cabins at Des Moines West KOA in Iowa. — Google Maps

4. Des Moines West KOA

Adel

KOA campgrounds are always clean, friendly, and safe campgrounds that you can count on. The Des Moines West KOA is the Iowa campground that has everything you could ever want while camping. It’s located among the beautiful farm fields in Iowa off of I-80 at Exit 106. You will have all the amenities of home while camping in the experience that you choose. Camping cabins of different types and numerous camping sites await you. A short drive south, through the rolling hills of southern Iowa, is where you can experience the Bridges of Madison County and John Wayne Birthplace Museum in Winterset — some of the 25 perfect stops on Madison County’s Covered Bridges Scenic Byway.

Pack your fishing pole, as you can toss a line in at the private stocked pond at the campground. If you are a person who wants to camp but are not quite ready to do so in more primitive places, you will fall in love with this campground. The best part about this location is that it’s in a rural setting but is only a short drive to the amenities that West Des Moines has to offer.

5. Pikes Peak State Park

McGregor

With so much to see and explore along the Mississippi River, Pikes Peak State Park Campground is the perfect place to set up camp for the night. With more than 50 campsites for campers, there’s a site for you and your preferred method of camping. This particular campground is great for campers who enjoy small river towns and the great outdoors. There is also a large ramp with a viewing area of the Mississippi River within walking distance of the campground. Bridal Veil Trail is a highlight for many visiting the park and campground.

This trail is 0.9 miles in length and parts of the trail are handicap accessible. The bluffs overlooking the river, an effigy mound in the shape of a bear, and the falls themselves make each step worth the hike. If you are traveling The Great River Road, one of the best scenic routes in northeast Iowa, this makes for a great place to stop.

6. Big Woods Lake Campground

Cedar Falls

Big Woods Lake Campground is located in Cedar Falls, but it has a real rural feel despite being located in an urban area. Fishing, biking, hiking, and wildlife viewing are all popular activities. The campsites are level and offer a fire ring and picnic table and Wi-Fi. Some campsites are reservable and some are first come, first served. The Cedar Valley Trail System borders the campground on the south side and the campground overlooks Big Woods Lake.

Walking trails at Lake Darling State Park in Iowa. — Sara Broers

7. Lake Darling State Park

Brighton

Lake Darling State Park is located near Brighton in Southeast Iowa. On a recent camping trip, we experienced beautiful wildflowers and excellent birding here. The best tip I can give you when you camp in this campground is to bring your binoculars. There are numerous campsites with electrical and full hookups. There are also two modern restroom stations for campers. Camping cabins are also very popular, and I would suggest reserving them early on in the season, as they fill quickly. There are also numerous hiking trails for all levels of experience. Winter outdoor enthusiasts will appreciate the snowmobile and cross-country skiing trails.

A nice addition in the park is a 1.5-mile paved fishing trail that runs near the shoreline and is ADA accessible. It is located along the southern shores of the lake. The 18 miles of shoreline will welcome you as you set up your camper for a camping experience to remember. Sites 1 to 6 are right next to the lake, as are sites 63 to 66.

8. Lake Wapello State Park

Drakesville

Lake Wapello State Park is located in Southeast Iowa, south of Ottumwa near Drakesville. This campground sits adjacent to the lake and offers standard full hookup sites, electrical sites, and numerous tent camping sites. You can choose to rough it or opt for the amenities that you are used to having at home. Many of the sites are level and shaded, which makes it comfortable on a hot summer day. What sets this state park apart from others is that it offers 13 modern cabins. They each offer space for a minimum of six guests, and one cabin offers space for 10 guests and is ADA accessible. Eleven of these cabins are seasonal and two are available all year long.

Several miles of hiking trails go around Lake Wapello and are popular all year long. Depending on the season, hiking, cross-country skiing, and snowmobiling are all popular trail activities. A popular nature trail is located on the north side of the park. Fishing, sunbathing, and beach activities are also very popular around the lake.

9. Maquoketa Caves State Park

Mahaska

The Maquoketa Caves State Park is home to 370 acres of bluffs, caves, and trails for hiking and caving. Several electric and nonelectric camping sites are available in the campground. A modern restroom and shower facility are also on site. If you prefer river activities, the Maquoketa River is nearby and there are local vendors that rent out inner tubes and canoes to float on the river. Personally, my family and I have always enjoyed caving while at this campground. The best tip that I can give you is to wear old clothes, as you will probably want to throw them in the trash once you are done caving. If you are not that adventurous, there is still plenty to see and explore, as this is one of the most beautiful areas in Iowa.

6 Incredible Places To Enjoy High Tea In Paris

Although Paris is known for its cafes and cafe culture, where French people relax daily with their strong cups of espresso, there’s a hidden tea culture in Paris. Though not as touted as cafes, Paris has an impressive list of tea salons or salon de the, high tea service at luxury hotels, and casual cafes serving high-quality tea.

Tea has always lived in the shadow of coffee in France even though it arrived in 1636, 50 years before coffee. Considered an exotic treasure at the time, tea was imported from China and Japan, becoming popular with the royals and the aristocracy, beginning with Cardinal Jules Mazarin, a French statesman who drank tea to cure his gout. Word got out that tea helped cure common maladies and ailments, so Louis XIV, the Sun King, began drinking tea in 1665 because he learned the Chinese and Japanese rarely had heart disease. He lived till the ripe age of 77, a miracle at that time.

King Louis XIV thought tea was so essential, in 1692 he bestowed Francois Damame the exclusive license to sell tea in France and the first tea brand was born, now called Dammann Freres. In 2008, Dammann Freres opened a flagship boutique on the historic Place des Vosges, stocking over 150 tea flavors plus a selection of teapots, gift sets, and teacups.

Here’s a full range of tea service in Paris, from the no-holds-barred high tea at five-star hotels to more casual and less expensive options.

Sitting room at Hotel Ritz Paris. — EQRoy / Shutterstock

1. Hotel Ritz Paris

What could be better than having high tea at the Ritz? Not much.

The historic Hotel Ritz Paris on the Place Vendome, the pinnacle of French luxury hotels, was recently refurbished from top to bottom to the tune of 200 million euros, which took close to four years to complete.

One of the best new additions to the renovation was the Salon Proust, a lounge and tearoom dedicated to the legendary French writer Marcel Proust, a frequent guest at the hotel.

Proust was from the Parisian upper class and used to the finer things in life. Salon Proust reflects Proust’s fine taste with plush lounges and club chairs, a selection of books behind handsome, wood doors, elegant sconces, a marble mantle with a working fireplace, and a painted portrait of the handsome and sophisticated Proust.

Even the most discriminating tea snob will be astounded by the long list of the highest quality teas on the 17-page menu, which includes black, green, white, and fermented tea plus herbal teas from India, China, and South Africa.

Pastry chef Francois Perret has devised a departure from the expected British high tea menu of tea sandwiches and scones, with a decadent, all-sweets menu. A three-tiered, silver tray arrives with a dazzling selection of cakes, sweet breads, cookies, and meringues.

When you are done, the check discreetly arrives inside a burgundy leather-bound book by Proust. You also receive a memorable souvenir: a mini-tin filled with tea packaged in a blue box embossed with an illustration of the hotel.

High tea is served from 2:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily and is just under 70 euros per person. For an extra 20 euros, you can enhance the experience with a glass of champagne.

2. Shangri-La Hotel Paris

The Shangri-La Hotel Paris has the distinction of the only place in Paris that serves a vegan high tea menu.

First built in 1896 as a palace for Prince Roland Bonaparte, a relative of Napoleon Bonaparte, the massive space was transformed into the five-star Shangri-La Hotel Paris in 2010. Since the building was designated a historic structure, the hotel still retains a good deal of the original architectural elements from the Louis XIV, Empire, and Greco-Roman periods.

Shangri-La Hotels is a Hong Kong-based company that is decidedly Asian inspired. The tea menu features three black Grand Cru selections from Ceylon: Ran Watte with notes of peach and citrus; Meda Watte with notes of caramel, figs, and thyme; and Yata Watte, with notes of bay leaf, spices and dried apricot. There’s also Uda Watte with notes of hazelnuts, almonds, dried fruits, and caramel.

I was a pastry chef and baker in New York before I moved to Paris and was skeptical that the taste of the pastries made without butter, cream, and eggs would live up to my standards. I was pleasantly surprised! The apple and raisin scones were dense and delicious and served with so-called whipped cream so authentic, I prodded the waiter about what ingredients they used to make it so good.

Next up was a selection of nut and chocolate tartlets and not-too-sweet meringues. In case that wasn’t enough, three more desserts arrived: pastry cream with a butter cookie crust, vanilla pastry cream, strawberry marmalade all ensconced in a ring of organic strawberries, a pavlova with meringue, jasmine-scented pastry cream, and poached pomelos with vanilla, and, last but not least, a chocolate and salt shortbread with caramel mousse and soft chocolate interior.

The Shangri-La experience is currently 45 euros per person (80 euros for two) every day from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.

3. Mariage Freres Tea Salon And Tea Shop

Mariage Freres is one of the most beloved and oldest tea brands in France. The story begins in 1854 when brothers Henri and Edouard Mariage open a wholesale tea business, importing teas from Asia and India that were sold to high-end hotels and tea shops. The business successfully continued for four generations of the family and in 1983, Mariage Freres extended into retail outlets and tea salons. The flagship shop in the Marais district is located in the same building where the brothers first had their offices.

Designed to resemble an Old-World European tea counter, the charming boutique has authentic wood plank floors, lead glass lanterns, and dark wood shelves lined with their trademark black canisters and yellow labels filled with the most aromatic teas. The staff is dressed in the store uniform, a crisp linen suit, and they diligently cater to the customers, climbing up ladders to the highest shelves to retrieve the ideal tea suited for them.

The delightful tea salon in the rear of the shop offers a full lunch and afternoon tea menu. Tea is served in their signature teapot, which has a silver body with a white porcelain spout and handle, plus a tea cozy to keep it warm. You can purchase the same pot to take home in the boutique.

Over 1,000 teas are offered on the menu and they use only purified water to make the tea. You have three serving options: hot tea, cold infused tea, and iced tea. Tea-infused pastries and desserts are available including frosted madeleines flavored with Earl Grey and matcha green tea, cheesecake flavored with fruit tea, dark chocolate cake with Black Magic Tea and decorated with 24 karat gold leaf, creme brulee with Tibetan Marco Polo tea, and an iced macaron with fresh fruit and rooibos syrup.

Before you leave Mariage Freres, make time to visit the Tea Museum on the second floor, which houses artifacts, books, and objects telling the story of the Mariage Freres tea company.

The restaurant is open from 12 p.m. to 7 p.m. and tea service is from 2:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.

The Great Mosque of Paris in France. — olrat / Shutterstock

4. The Great Mosque Of Paris Tea Room

Did you know Paris has an authentic mosque? Grande Mosquee de Paris was built in honor of over 100,000 Muslim soldiers who fought for France in WWI and is located in the Latin Quarter. The mosque has stunning mosaics, a garden with flowers and fountains, a hammam (a Turkish-style steam bath), and a Moroccan restaurant and tea salon.

The outdoor tea salon resembles a Moroccan cafe, decorated with colored mosaic tiles and carved wood tables. Tea is served in a glass embossed with gold, lined with fresh mint. Moroccan and Middle Eastern pastries such as baklava, gazelle horns, chebakia, and date cookies are available to order.

The restaurant serves excellent versions of classic Moroccan dishes such as couscous, tagines, bastilla, and harira.

5. Laduree

The most popular macaron maker in France and probably in the world, Laduree started off as a single pastry shop opened in 1862 by Louis Ernest Laduree.

In the early 1900s, his wife, Jeanne Souchard, came up with the idea to wed the Parisian cafe with a pastry shop, thus opening the first tea salon in Paris. It was a place where women could freely meet other women for tea during the day without having to be escorted by a man, which was the custom in that time period.

Laduree brought in artist Jules Cheret to decorate and paint the tea salon. Cheret was inspired by the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel and the new Paris opera house, painting the ceilings with cherubs and gold paint.

Today, the opulent tearoom is still intact and a wonderful atmosphere to have afternoon tea with Laduree’s prized macarons.

6. George Cannon

A high-quality tea purveyor since 1898, George Cannon imports teas from Asia, Southeast Asia, Africa, and South America. In the shop on the Left Bank near Montparnasse is a quiet tearoom, a calm oasis to enjoy a cup of tea and delectable pastries flavored with tea. Loyal customers claim that George Cannon makes the best scones in Paris.

For more Parisian dining inspiration, consider visiting the seven best bakeries in Paris according to a former baker as well as these five superb pastry chefs and chocolatiers in Paris. And if you still want a strong espresso after reading about all that tea, don’t miss the nine best cafes to experience in Paris.

Driving The Historic Red Coat Trail: Winnipeg To Calgary

For a fascinating summer road trip across the prairies of Canada, consider the Red Coat Trail, named after the scarlet tunics of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, originally called the North-West Mounted Police or NWMP.

This route across Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta is best taken between late spring and early fall.

The Red Coat Trail is the tribute band of historic trails. It’s often far away from the route of 1874’s Great March West.

The NWMP was created to establish law and order in the Canadian West. The provoking event was the 1873 Cypress Hills Massacre, where some American hunters killed about 20 Assiniboine people in Canada. Canada wanted to police her borders and stop the illegal whiskey trade. Calling it whiskey is generous, however. What the unscrupulous traders passed off to the indigenous people was often revolting.

On the Great March West, many horses and oxen died of hunger and cold. Fresh water was scarce. The men suffered from dysentery and pneumonia. NWMP member James Finlayson calmly described it all in his journal.

Before the Red Coat Trail’s official start in Winnipeg, visitors coming from the south can see where the historic march began.

Fort Dufferin National Historic Site

On July 8, 1873, about 300 men and their long train of oxen and horses left Fort Dufferin, now a National Historic Site. They followed (more or less) the Boundary Commission Trail.

For the modern Red Coat Trail, go to Winnipeg and take Highway 2.

Winnipeg

Winnipeg is the capital of Manitoba, reachable by air, train, or car. There are lots of things to do in Winnipeg, so spend a couple of days if you can. Exploring the historic sites and cuisine scene will set you up for a great trip.

Saint Claude

Every road trip needs its quota of giant roadside attractions, and the big pipe in Saint Claude certainly qualifies. Also here: a dairy museum, a public garden, and a striking modern-style Catholic church.

Central Manitoba Tourism lists more attractions along this stretch of the Red Coat Trail, including the quirky glass bottle house in Treherne.

Souris

The longest pedestrian suspension bridge in Canada is in the little town of Souris. Crossing the bridge will take you to a 1910 mansion, now the Hillcrest Museum.

Redvers

After leaving Manitoba, one of the first towns you’ll encounter in Saskatchewan is Redvers, with its own giant attraction: a larger-than-life, full-color statue of a red-coated NWMP on a horse.

Wauchope And The Ghost Town Trail

The almost-abandoned town of Wauchope is the start of the Ghost Town Trail, a stretch of the Red Coat Trail running to Govenlock. Wauchope is still home to a few families, a church, and a grain elevator (a fast-disappearing sight on the Canadian prairies).

Some of these ghost towns are still occupied, but others are almost completely gone, like Glasnevin. It’s surprising how quickly they disappear.

Why are there ghost towns here? The short answer is drought and the Great Depression. There are more nuanced explanations to be found on plaques and markers, in occasional church services, and in the town histories tucked away on family bookcases. Every town has a story — and people who still love it.

Roche Percee

After Wauchope, the trail continues on Highway 13 west to Weyburn.

For a side trip to a notable point on the Red Coat Trail, visit La Roche Percee Provincial Historic Site near Estevan. The rock formations here are a landmark and a sacred site.

The NWMP camped at Roche Percee and then divided into two groups. Some went northeast to Fort Ellice and took the northern route to Fort Edmonton. The main group kept going west.

Weyburn

A regional service center, Weyburn has its share of indoor and outdoor attractions. The Soo Line Historical Museum, located in a former power plant, looks like a typical pioneer-town museum, but it boasts the Charles Wilson Silver Collection. With over 5,000 individual pieces, it’s said to be the world’s largest one-man collection of silver. Wilson, a local grain farmer, spent many years putting it together. He died at 90 and bequeathed it to the museum

Gravelbourg

For a side trip to explore French culture in Saskatchewan, check out Gravelbourg, established in the early 1900s by the French-Canadian priest Father Louis Pierre Gravel. Beyond building the impressive Our Lady of Assumption Co-Cathedral, Gravel convinced many French-Canadians to settle in the region. Fransaskois culture is alive and well here.

In addition to Gravelbourg’s heritage walking tour and museum, there are local parks with campgrounds and nine-hole golf courses.

Mossbank

Like much of Saskatchewan, this region is good for birding. If you want to extend your trip, head up to the Old Wives Lake Migratory Bird Sanctuary. You’ll see Mossbank, near where the NWMP camped and where they first met the First Nations people on the Great March.

During World War II, Mossbank hosted the British Commonwealth Air Training Plan No. 2 Bombing and Gunnery School.

Grasslands National Park

Head back to the Red Coat Trail, and then another side trip beckons.

The Badlands Parkway in the East Block of Grasslands National Park is one of the newest ways to explore this peaceful expanse of protected prairie. The park is home to reintroduced Plains bison, reminders of the buffalo who used to roam the prairies by the thousands. As a Dark Sky Preserve, Grasslands is a great camping place for stargazers.

Access to the East Block is from Highway 18, south of Wood Mountain. Wood Mountain Regional Park has a monument to the famous Sioux leader Sitting Bull. In 1876, after defeating General George Armstrong Custer at the Battle of the Little Bighorn, Sitting Bull and his people came here for safety. Some of their descendants still live in the area. Wood Mountain Regional Park, Grasslands National Park, and the Fort Walsh National Historic Site all tell parts of their story.

Eastend

Eastend is a small town with at least four great things going for it in addition to the scenery. There’s the T. rex Discovery Centre for fossil and dinosaur lovers, the Wallace Stegner House for writers and other creatives, and Jack’s Cafe for real milkshakes made with ice cream and Saskatoon berry pie in season. Finally, Eastend is the beginning of the Cypress Hills.

Fort Walsh And The Cypress Hills

The Cypress Hills are a unique landform — a plateau on the prairie. Driving through Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park is best done on a dry summer day. Ask for local advice if it’s raining. This is the highest ground between the Rockies and Eastern Canada and offers some truly spectacular views.

The Cypress Hills Massacre of 1873 happened near the Fort Walsh National Historic Site. For me, Fort Walsh has always been very moving. Looking at the photos here, I finally realized just how devastating the killing of nearly all the buffalo was to the Plains people.

On the Alberta side of Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park, Elkwater has a lake, camping, and other summer recreation. If you visit Elkwater, you can rejoin the Red Coat Trail in Pakowki.

High Level Bridge near Fort Whoop-Up. — Kristi Dollar / Shutterstock

Lethbridge And Fort Whoop-Up

The NWMP’s goal in 1874 was to put Fort Whoop-Up’s whiskey traders out of business. The fort was already empty when the NWMP arrived.

Since then, the city of Lethbridge has grown up here. The reconstructed Fort Whoop-Up tells the story of the complex relationships among the people and the many changes caused by the buffalo trade. Visit the Galt Museum and Fort Whoop-Up in Lethbridge, and don’t forget to admire the High Level Bridge, the longest, highest trestle bridge in the world.

Lethbridge is a small city where you could easily spend a day or two.

Fort Macleod

The Great March ended with the NWMP hastily building a fort at what is now Fort Macleod. The original fort building didn’t last long, but there is a reconstructed version, the Fort Museum of the NWMP and First Nations Interpretive Centre.

The Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is just a short drive away.

Calgary

The Red Coat Trail ends at Fort Macleod. From here to Calgary, the Rockies are within sight from the main highway (Highway 2).

The British Commonwealth Air Training Plan had many sites in southern Alberta, including Fort Macleod, Claresholm, and High River. Aviation fans should stop at the Bomber Command Museum of Canada to see the Lancaster Bomber.

Spend a few days in Calgary, a major city with lots to do year-round. The reconstructed Fort Calgary is another reminder of the NWMP’s historic role.

What To Know Before You Go

The Red Coat Trail is a two-lane road, slower than the Trans-Canada Highway and with fewer services and towns. The distance from Winnipeg to Calgary is about 920 miles, with numerous side-trip possibilities.

All along the way, you’ll find campgrounds, municipal and provincial parks, walking trails, and golf courses. If you have questions, just ask. The locals will be happy to help.

7 Best Places To Savor Seafood In Ketchikan

Ketchikan, Alaska’s “First City,” is an island reached by plane or boat. A popular cruise port, tourists flood into the city daily to view the artwork along the waterfront of the Inside Passage, the Native American totem poles, and to savor the variety of fresh seafood in a city that is known as the Salmon Capital of the World.

It’s home to black bears, wolves, and bald eagles, and some of the most spectacular scenery in the U.S. The temperate rainforest keeps the air moist and the flora and fauna thriving. Then there are the waters that provide daily sightings of whales, puffins, and other sea life, and the fresh catches that feed the tourists and residents.

Tourism and commercial fishing are the two main industries in Ketchikan, so it’s easy to find fresh-off-the-boat halibut, salmon, lingcod, and other seafood choices at the local restaurants.

I was invited to visit the nearby Steamboat Bay Fishing Lodge on Noyes Island for a women’s fishing expedition (my first trip since coronavirus). On the way, we stayed in Ketchikan and sampled some of the fresh seafood for ourselves. While Ketchikan may boast that it’s the Salmon Capital of the World, you’ll find many more seafood options being celebrated at the restaurants — halibut is one favorite for local chefs, and it’s my new favorite fish after tasting it, whether it’s wrapped in bacon, slathered in a wine and butter sauce, or stuffed with crab.

When asked why there are so many halibut options in a city known for its salmon, Chris Lemerond, corporate chef for Cape Fox Corporation, explained, “I like to sell halibut because the locals are burned out on salmon. Honestly, they eat salmon all the time. Tough problem to have, I know! I think that halibut is a big seller because not everybody can get out to get halibut. I mean, you have to go way out there. Salmon come in the streams and everybody gets them. So you can go right down to the stream and you can fish and catch salmon. But for halibut, you have to be in the boat, you have to go out, and you have to drop. It’s a patience thing.”

The restaurants in Ketchikan generally focus on what’s in season and what the fishermen are catching. So menus change based on what’s coming off the boats.

“I think the real seafood that comes out of here — in addition to salmon — is the prawns and the halibut and the yellow eye rockfish, and lingcod is really popular when it’s in season. When you can put lingcod on the menu, a lot of people around here treat it as a little bit of a treasure.”

Ready to taste some of the delicious seafood Lemerond is talking about? Here’s where to go to get it.

1. Bar Harbor

The local barbecue joint with a view of the waterway and mountains, Bar Harbor Ale House also serves amazing seafood alongside its smoked meats. We sampled a variety of flavors during our visit: pork belly and peaches, halibut tacos, a bacon-wrapped halibut salad, smoked salmon chowder, and a flatbread topped with shaved pork belly, honey, brie, and walnuts.

The salmon chowder was deceptively rich considering it’s not heavily loaded with cream. Chef Lemerond explains the process for making the delectable soup: “First, we smoke the salmon for the chowder. It starts with a veggie broth that has corn added and cooked for its flavor. Then the salmon is added last. Adding it last gives the soup a dollop of flavor at the end.”

And there’s no shortage of salmon in this chowder. Lemerond says there’s nearly a pound and a half of salmon in one gallon of soup, with just a little bit of cream added at the end. Delightfully rich in flavor, I would have thought it was heavier cream based, but Lemerond said, “The soup has a real depth to it from the veggie stock itself.”

Go for the seafood dishes and the chowder especially, but be sure to try the barbecue as well. It’s all delicious.

Clam chowder in a bread bowl from Cape Fox Lodge. — Jill Dutton

2. Cape Fox Lodge

As we stayed at the Cape Fox Lodge two nights, I ate a few meals at the lodge’s Heen Kahidi Dining Room. The lodge is tucked into the hillside on the edge of the Tongass National Forest and overlooks Ketchikan and the waterway. The meals, created by Chef Lemerond and Chef Eddie Lopez, were especially well prepared and presented.

My first lunch upon arrival in Ketchikan was at Heen Kahidi, and the meal set the tone for my newfound love of halibut. I ordered the Alaskan Gold Rush sandwich — a delicate piece of fried halibut topped with candied bacon, provolone, and honey mustard on a potato bun. My friend ordered the Halibut Gruyere, a similar sandwich, except the fish was grilled and it came with a gruyere sauce. They were both amazing.

The seafood shined at every meal. We had salmon eggs benedict for breakfast one morning and shrimp scampi and pan-seared scallops for dinner.

3. Annabelle’s Famous Keg And Chowder House

Another hotel restaurant, Annabelle’s is located inside the historic Gilmore Hotel. The chowder is a must-try since it’s in their name and is said to be the best seafood chowder in Alaska. There are two dining options in Annabelle’s. On the left side of the building you can sit in a tavern-style bar and order from an antique-looking 1927 newspaper that’s the menu (and can be taken with you as a souvenir). Or sit on the right side for a fine-dining environment with a traditional menu. Both menus have the same choices; it’s just a matter of which environment you choose to dine in.

The famous seafood chowder has a blend of scallops, halibut, and salmon added to simmered potatoes, tomatoes, celery, onion, and assorted herbs that are finished with half and half. Or choose the clam or smoked salmon chowders. In addition to the chowder, other specialties include clams sauteed in an herb, garlic, and white wine sauce, a crab macaroni and cheese, prawns, or a blue cheese crumb-crusted halibut — all are rich, decadent, and satisfying.

4. Alaska Fish House

The waterfront Alaska Fish House is known for its Dungeness crab, smoked salmon cornbread, and another delicious incarnation of smoked salmon chowder. Chowders are popular at all the restaurants — the cooler temps and rainforest atmosphere lend well to a warm bowl of chowder any time of year.

The Alaska Fish House is more of a crab-shack type establishment, so look for hearty servings of fish tacos, fish and chips, fish burgers, and hamburgers.

Craft cocktails from 108 Tap House. — Jill Dutton

5. 108 Tap House And Burger Bar

108 Tap House, Ketchikan’s newest culinary addition, adds flair to the dining scene. It’s not a seafood restaurant, but it’s a meal you won’t want to miss. Smashed burgers are made in front of you and served alongside craft cocktails concocted with special touches such as an in-house dehydrated lemon slice. The poutine, cheese curds, and hummus fries are big on flavor and style as well.

I ordered the 108 Burger, a bacon-wrapped burger with Beecher’s Flagship cheese, caramelized onions, butter lettuce, tomatoes, and house-made pickles. It was enormous and one of the best burgers I’ve tasted.

The cocktails are as sleek as the redesigned interior, incorporating tea and coffee-infused liquors into drinks such as the Earl Grey Old Fashion with 108 Earl Grey-infused bourbon, simple syrup, bitters, sweet vermouth, and a cherry dried orange. The Smoked Boulevardier is a dramatic presentation of Whistle Pig rye whiskey, sweet vermouth, Campari, and an orange slice topped with a bubble of smoke.

6. The Taste Of Ketchikan Tour

To sample a variety of dishes, take the Taste of Ketchikan tour. This guided tour starts along the downtown area coastal walk as the guide points out the artwork and artists of the region. At the edge of Ketchikan’s notorious red light district on Creek Street, the tour ends at New York Cafe in a private dining room where the chef prepares several courses, all centered around the catch of the day.

My Alaska Tours co-owner Shauna Lee said, “The chef comes out and explains each course — and it’s always the catch of the day. So guests learn, ‘This is the fishing boat that it was caught on. These are the fishermen who caught it. And here’s what a halibut looks like.’” The chef will also explain “all of the aspects of the particular fish.”

7. New York Cafe

You can stop by New York Cafe without joining a tour to enjoy fresh, local seafood, and American and Mediterranean cuisine with vegetarian options at your own pace.

Pro Tip

When looking for locally sourced foods, in addition to seafood, you’ll find plenty of reindeer, local beer and spirits, Alaskan birch syrup, fireweed honey, salmonberries, and blueberries in Ketchican. There’s even a blueberry festival each August to celebrate the beloved fruit.