11 Fast Facts About Godafoss: Iceland’s Mythic Waterfall

In the Northeastern region of Iceland, the Skjalfandafljot River takes a tumble. A nearly 40-foot drop along a curved lip, almost 100 feet long, creates what might well be the most spectacular waterfall in the whole world. This is Godafoss, the Waterfall of the Gods, and it’s the high point of many Icelandic vacations.

Here are a few interesting things about Godafoss to keep in mind.

Godafoss waterfall in Iceland. — Vadym Lavra / Shutterstock

1. It’s One Of The Main Stops Along The Country’s Greatest Road Trip Route

Maybe the best way to experience Iceland is with an epic road trip. If that’s your plan, get ready for the Ring Road, otherwise known as Highway 1. This 800-mile adventure circles the coast of the island nation — and Godafoss is one of its major stopping points.

The Waterfall of the Gods is located in North Iceland, just off Highway 1, between Akureyri and Myvatn. You can reach it via a brief trip down the driving route known as the Diamond Circle.

2. It’s Shaped Like A Horseshoe

Think of a waterfall and you probably imagine a single stream of water, as if a river suddenly fell off a cliff. Indeed, that is how most waterfalls look. Godafoss is different, though; it’s not a single stream of water descending down a cliffside. Instead, it tumbles down a hollowed-out half-circle.

Yes, this massive waterfall is curved. Viewed from afar, it takes the shape of a 370-foot-wide semicircle. You can access both sides of the falls year-round for spectacular views. In fact, Godafoss’s unique shape is a big part of its extraordinary beauty.

Skjalfandafljot River in Iclenad. — Wirestock Images / Shutterstock

3. It’s Part Of A Pretty Impressive River

Godafoss’s water comes from the Skjalfandafljot River, which is the fourth-longest river in Iceland. This spectacular waterway is fed by the Vatnajokull Glacier, which is itself Europe’s largest glacier. The river runs through the Bardardalshraun lava field before reaching the jagged falls.

4. It’s Known As The Waterfall Of The Gods

That nickname comes from the waterfall’s colorful history: In the year 1000, a politician named Thorgeir Ljosvetningagodi declared Christianity the official religion of Iceland. To show his devotion, he threw his statues of Norse pagan gods into the waterfall.

The Northern Lights over Godafoss. — mtp26 / Shutterstock

5. It’s A Great Place To Experience The Northern Lights

What’s an Icelandic vacation without an aurora borealis sighting? Aurora season lasts from mid-August to mid-April, but for the best possible chances of a Northern Lights photo-op, travelers should plan their trips between October and March. Godafoss is open year-round, and winter visitors can often experience stunning views of the falls covered in snow and ice.

6. The West Side Offers The Easiest Access

Visitors can park right next to the falls and see all three sections of Godafoss. There is, of course, a downside: Most tourists visit the west side, so if you’re hoping to avoid the crowds, you’ll want to approach the falls from the east.

7. The East Side Has Its Advantages, Too

While the east side parking area is significantly smaller, it offers access to a unique hiking trail. Take the trail to reach two vantage points that offer serene views of Godafoss that aren’t accessible from the west side. Note: The trail is small and can be quite slippery, so be careful.

8. Amenities Aren’t Too Far Away

On the east side of the falls, you’ll find a fuel station, cafe, and the Fossholl Guesthouse. If you’re looking for more rustic accommodations, there’s also a campsite across from the falls.

Godafoss waterfall in Iceland during the winter. — Ghing / Shutterstock

9. A Visit To Godafoss Requires A Bit Of Preparation

The closer you get to Godafoss, the more spray you’re going to encounter. After all, this is a waterfall we’re talking about. In order to enjoy the place’s natural beauty without shivering in wet clothes, be sure to come prepared with waterproof shoes and jackets to help keep you comfortable and dry.

Iceland is known for having cold summers and even colder winters, so the right gear is essential, no matter where you stay.

10. Godafoss Is Surrounded By Must-see Rock Formations

Godafoss isn’t the only natural feature to check out during your visit. The waterfall is just part of the 7,000-year-old Bardardalshraun lava field, which features incredible natural formations you won’t see anywhere else in the world. In fact, the field’s iconic black basalt formations adorn the base of the falls, creating an almost unbelievable landscape.

Geitafoss waterfall near Godafoss in Iceland. — Vadym Lavra / Shutterstock

11. There’s Another Waterfall Nearby

After visiting Godafoss, walk back toward the official parking area on the west side and across a small bridge to find Geitafoss. Tourists often miss Geitafoss, which is 18-feet tall and about 55-feet wide. It’s not nearly as impressive as Godafoss, but it’s still worth checking out if you’ve got the time.

Vacationing in Iceland? Here’s how to visit the Blue Lagoon.

The Best Things To See And Do On Washington’s Whidbey Island

Northwest Washington is known for its beautiful Puget Sound. This estuary, or body of water where rivers meet the sea, is a massive network of rivers, bays, and islands. The area is home to major cities like Seattle and Tacoma, small harbor towns like Gig Harbor and Bremerton, and everything in between. Perhaps the best-kept secret of all the 15 major islands of Puget Sound, however, is Whidbey Island.

Located only 25 miles northwest of Seattle across Puget Sound, Whidbey Island is a long linear island that stretches for nearly 50 miles. From the south end of the island, you can see parts of Seattle across the water. From the north end of the island, you can see the San Juan Islands and dozens of whale-watching boats crisscrossing the adjacent straits and sounds.

Here are some of the best things to do when visiting Whidbey Island.

A ferry off the coast of Whidbey Island. — WhidbeyIsland.us

Take The Ferry

While it’s possible to get to Whidbey Island by car by taking the Swinomish Channel Bridge to Fidalgo Island and then the Deception Pass Bridge to Whidbey Island, the absolute best way to get to the island is by ferry. That’s how my wife and I chose to travel to Whidbey.

There are several ways to do this. If you’re coming from Seattle, the quickest way to get to Whidbey Island is to take the Clinton-Mukilteo Ferry. This ferry takes you across the shortest passage from the mainland to the island. You’ll see lots of birds — and maybe even some sea life — on the 20-minute ferry ride.

My wife and I had all day to get to the island and nothing on our schedule, so we decided to take the most scenic route possible. Leaving Seattle, we went south (in the opposite direction of the island), drove across the Tacoma Narrows Bridge to the western side of Puget Sound, stopped for lunch in Gig Harbor, and then drove an hour north though many quaint harbor towns to the town of Port Townsend. From Port Townsend, we took the Port Townsend-Coupeville Ferry to Whidbey Island. This ferry ride is about twice as long as the Clinton-Mukilteo Ferry, but it’s also twice as scenic.

All told, we turned a 90-minute trip from Seattle to Whidbey Island into a 3-hour-and-30-minute adventure. But that was the point. The drive from the Tacoma Narrows Bridge to Port Townsend was the perfect precursor to our trip to Whidbey Island, and the ferry ride from Port Townsend to Whidbey was sublime.

Explore Oak Harbor

Whidbey Island can best be described as a collection of several small harbor towns. There is a naval air station on Whidbey Island approximately 3 miles north of Oak Harbor as well as some naval facilities in Oak Harbor itself, so the harbor can be quite active.

My wife and I found one trail that allowed us to see everything. We were up for a morning walk, so we got our coffee and headed for Windjammer Park near our hotel. There we discovered a walking trail that wound around the entire comma-shaped harbor. It ended at a point across the harbor that offered incredible views of the town. We saw sailboats moored in the harbor, the entire downtown — it was quite the view. All told, it was a 4-mile walk there and back, but the views were certainly worth the trek. My wife captured this photo of all the sailboat masts in the harbor:

Boats in the harbor on Whidbey Island. — Robert Rosenthal

The path provides a great introduction to the island, since on it, you’ll see most of what Whidbey has to offer, including the shops in downtown Oak Harbor and the public park right on the harbor. As you round the corner toward the end of the trail, be sure to look off to the east for a great view of Mount Baker, an active stratovolcano that’s covered with snow all year long.

If you’re not feeling up for that much exercise, you don’t have to walk the full 4 miles. Since it’s an out-and-back trail, it can be shortened to any distance you’d like.

Whales at Deception Pass. — Deception Pass Tours

Take A Whale-Watching Tour

While the San Juan Islands are perhaps the best-known spots for whale watching in Puget Sound, Whidbey Island offers many whale-watching tours as well. The tours vary depending on the time of year. Here are some tips for whale watching in the area.

If you hope to spot a gray whale, you’ll only be able to do so in March and April. Given that this is the off-season, tours are typically limited to the weekends.

Summertime is when the majority of the whale-watching tours take place. This is when the salmon runs, which bring the whales to Puget Sound, are happening. Minke whales, humpback whales, and orcas are all visible on these tours. Most tours on Whidbey Island take place in and around Deception Pass, the narrow, 450-foot-wide pass from the Salish Sea into Skagit Bay.

Even if your visit to Whidbey Island doesn’t coincide with any whale-watching tours, there are still ways to get out on the water. Deception Pass Tours offers an hour-long tour of Deception Pass on a whale-watching boat. During these times, the area is not devoid of sea life — on your tour you might see seals, porpoises, and perhaps even a bald eagle.

The Deception Pass Bridge to Fidalgo Island. — Edmund Lowe Photography / Shutterstock

Watch The Sunset From Washington Park

Okay, so I’m cheating a little, since Washington Park isn’t technically on Whidbey Island. Once you cross the narrow Deception Pass Bridge, you’re on Fidalgo Island. But the two islands function as one, much like Martha’s Vineyard and Chappaquiddick Island — so much so that it wasn’t until returning to the mainland that my wife and I learned that we had left Whidbey Island.

The main attraction on Fidalgo is the sunset in Washington Park. I can honestly say that it’s the most amazing sunset I’ve seen in my life. From the town of Anacortes, head west on Highway 20 toward the ferries and then turn off onto the aptly named Sunset Avenue. This will take you directly to the entrance of the park.

At the entrance of the park, you’ll see that the road around the park is a single one-way loop. Follow the loop road until you see Puget Sound. Park in one of the parking spaces and take a quick walk to one of the viewing points overlooking the water.

What will you see? Lots of boats, the San Juan Islands in the distance, and, if the weather is right, a sunset over the San Juan Islands like this one:

Eating On Whidbey Island

My wife and I spent three full days on Whidbey Island and ate at all kinds of restaurants. There are many seafood restaurants, of course, but there are also several other dining options.

These were some of our favorites.

Front Street Grill

Coupeville is the county seat for Island County, which includes Whidbey Island. It’s a small harbor town right on Penn Cove, a large body of water tucked into Whidbey Island. If you’re looking for waterfront dining in Coupeville, consider Front Street Grill.

The dining room has views of Penn Cove and the historic Coupeville Wharf that extends out into the cove. If you look off into the distance, you’ll see the snow-capped peaks of Mount Baker.

Front Street Grill has seafood, of course, and it’s fresh from Penn Cove. Penn Cove is the largest mussel farm in the United States, so you must try the mussels when you’re in Coupeville. At Front Street Grill, they’re served 12 different ways! Saffron mussels, coconut curry mussels, bourbon cream mussels, and Thai peanut mussels are just a few of the inventive varieties on the menu.

Frasers Gourmet Hideaway

Frasers Gourmet Hideaway is indeed hidden away on a side street in Oak Harbor. And it’s located in what appears to be an old home, so it doesn’t stick out as a restaurant at first. But once you are inside, you’ll see why the word gourmet is in the title as well.

Frasers Gourmet Hideaway offers daily specials, and we were fortunate to be there on a day one of its most popular specials was on the menu: the crab-cake risotto. But that wasn’t the only winner.

If you weren’t able to try mussels anywhere else on the island, try the Caesar salad with smoked mussels at Frasers. For the main course, Frasers serves everything from chicken and waffles to duck breast to seafood fettuccine made with crab claws, scallops, shrimp, and — of course — mussels.

Adrift Restaurant

Technically, Anacortes is on Fidalgo Island. But a meal at Adrift Restaurant is certainly worth the journey across the Deception Pass Bridge, especially if you go there for breakfast. Adrift offers the standard breakfast fare — eggs Benedict, biscuits and gravy, and pancakes — but also some fantastic local options you have to try.

The restaurant’s breakfast tacos are to die for. Made with two grilled corn tortillas and scrambled eggs, they are topped with avocado (lots of avocado), chipotle sour cream, and roasted tomatillo salsa. You can get them with bacon or roasted pork.

Adrift is also known for its “Veggie Starts” breakfast. You “start” with roasted potatoes sautéed with a medley of vegetables and topped with mozzarella and Provolone cheese, and then you add whatever protein you want: bacon, roasted pork, tofu, or Italian sausage. Top it off with an organic egg, and you’ll have the perfect breakfast.

Eating Local In Portland, Oregon: 9 Great Restaurants To Visit

Situated on the Columbia River in the Willamette Valley, Portland is Oregon’s most populous city. In recent years, the city has gone through an enormous growth spurt, drawing people to the Pacific Northwest from all across the country. Now, as the 25th-largest city in the United States, Portland is known for its eccentric charm — and a world-class food scene.

Of course, no one knows the city’s food culture better than the locals, so forget about the familiar, nationwide chains and keep reading. Here are some of the best restaurants to check out when you’re in the mood to eat like a local Portlandian.

Food from Matt's BBQ. — fivetonine / Shutterstock

1. Matt’s BBQ (And Matt’s BBQ Tacos)

Portland typically isn’t known for its barbecue, but Matt Vicedomini has been blowing patrons away with his Texas-style white-oak smoked ribs, beef brisket, and jalapeno-cheddar sausages since 2015. Vicedomini’s restaurant is actually a food truck, but it remains rooted in place, dishing out deliciousness daily. Just ask Guy Fieri!

Vicedomini has also branched out into the world of tacos, opening a second location (Matt’s BBQ Tacos, also technically mobile but typically still) and offering some of the best Tex-Mex tortilla creations the city has to offer. All tortillas at the taco cart are pressed and made to order, and you’ll have your pick of migas, pulled pork, pork belly, jalapeno sausage, brisket, portobello mushrooms, or even breakfast tacos (if you get there early enough). If you’re looking for a delicious-yet-casual meal, either of Matt’s BBQ carts are winners.

The original fixed-location food truck can be found at 4233 N Mississippi Avenue on the corner near Prost Marketplace. Food is available every day from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. or until items are sold out. Matt’s BBQ Tacos cart can be found at 3207 Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard and is open Wednesday through Sunday from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. or until the food is gone!

2. The Daily Feast

This old-school-meets-new-school diner sits just north of downtown Portland. Here you can find classic American, made-from-scratch dishes with a modern healthy twist that won’t drain your wallet. The Daily Feast is located in the space that was occupied by Leo’s Non-Smoking Diner, a Portland institution, for 30 years. You can still enjoy the horseshoe counter, swivel chairs, and vinyl booths today, although a slightly modernized flare marks the transition from one eatery to the next.

There are plenty of choices for meat eaters as well as vegetarians and vegans. Be sure to try the breakfast burrito, smoked salmon scramble, or a bagel from beloved local Bowery Bagels. If you’re looking for lighter fare, there are also porridge bowls, a grain-based power bowl, and plenty of salads to choose from. When you’re thirsty, we recommend the local Spella coffee or a glass of freshly squeezed orange or grapefruit juice.

The diner is located in the historic Medical Dental Building at 837 SW 11th Avenue and is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

3. Dan And Louis Oyster Bar

For generations, the Wachsmuth family has been shucking oysters for patrons on Old Town’s Ankeny Street. Dan and Louis Oyster Bar has been in operation since 1907, when it began in a humble storefront. Now, 100 years later, it’s the oldest family-owned restaurant in Portland.

Here you can enjoy some of the best seafood in town. Think signature clam chowder and freshly shucked Northwest oysters on the half shell. The nautical-themed eatery is perfect for enjoying an intimate dinner and drinks with a friend (try the Bloody Mary), or bring the whole family in for a seafood extravaganza. Looking for a deal? Every Monday and Tuesday all oysters are happy hour price for the entire day.

Dan and Louis Oyster Bar is located at 208 SW Ankeny Street and is open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.

4. Fried Egg I’m In Love

If you’re looking for a pun-tastic, egg-ceptional restaurant, Fried Egg I’m in Love will be al-bu-men-tion for the rest of the day. (Sorry — we’ll leave it to the professionals from here on out.) Originally opened as a food cart on SE Hawthorne, Fried Egg I’m in Love now has a brick-and-mortar space as well as a permanent truck parked at Pioneer Square.

Here you’ll find some of the best egg sandwiches in the region, served with eggs sourced from local farms and bread from Portland French Bakery (along with delicious gluten-free options). They offer what could be a literal ton of add-ons and sauces to adorn a build-your-own sandwich, but the Yolko Ono is their signature dish. It includes fried egg, homemade pesto, parmesan, and a hand-pressed house sausage patty — and it bears no responsibility for the breakup of the Beatles.

If sandwiches aren’t your thing, you can also get a breakfast burrito or bowl with sides of hashbrowns or mixed greens. Stumptown coffee is also available at both locations. The Hawthorne location is open every day from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. The Pioneer truck is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

5. The Sudra

Of course we couldn’t write about the Portland food scene without including a wholly vegan restaurant. The Sudra, an Indian restaurant with a New Mexican twist, is one of the best places in the city to grab potato samosas chaat, chickenless tikka masala, or a jackfruit vindaloo bowl.

Owner Sanjay Chandrasekaran grew up combining the traditional flavors of India with the flare of New Mexican green chilies. And while the restaurant’s menu has evolved over time to encompass more classic Indian dishes, the distinct influence of the Southwest is still there.

Dishes at The Sudra are colorful, complex, and aromatic — a far cry from the brown rice blandness of the carnivore’s imagination. Stop by The Sudra for brunch, lunch, or dinner. The restaurant is located at 2333 NE Glisan Street and is open Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 12 a.m.

6. Le Pigeon

For those desiring a more upscale, fine-dining experience, you’ll find nothing but the finest morsels and cozy surroundings at Le Pigeon on East Burnside. Two-time James Beard Award winner, chef, and owner Gabriel Rucker has been pushing the envelope of French cuisine in the Portland food scene since 2006.

Don’t let “upscale French cuisine” intimidate you, though. Rucker’s fare is adventurous but very accessible. Le Pigeon is known for their beef cheek bourguignon and the grilled pigeon. The real treat is on the dessert menu, though. The foie gras profiteroles with caramel sauce are a truly unique dish.

When you’re ready to splurge on a Le Pigeon meal, be sure to make a reservation (the space is very small and seats fill up quickly). Le Pigeon is located at 738 E Burnside Street and is open every night from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Food from Olympia Provisions. — Wild As Light / Shutterstock

7. Olympia Provisions

Sausage lovers, rejoice. Olympia Provisions is here to make all your cured-meat dreams come true. Oregon’s first USDA-certified meat curing facility has two brick-and-mortar restaurant locations, and both offer a plethora of European-style dishes available for brunch, lunch, and dinner.

Chef TJ McConnaughey uses old-world techniques to create mouth-watering charcuterie plates filled with locally cured meats, seasonal pickled vegetables, and cheeses. Quality is key here, with each item handcrafted with the utmost care. Don’t know where to start? Share a chef’s choice charcuterie board with friends, or try the grilled Cubano sandwich on the lunch menu. The weekend brunch menu has some of the best biscuits and gravy and Eggs Benedict dishes the city has to offer.

The restaurant’s Southeast location is at 107 SE Washington Street and is open Monday through Friday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. The Northwest hours differ slightly, so be sure to check their website for details.

8. Hanoi Kitchen

The family-owned and operated Hanoi Kitchen off Glisan is a great spot for an affordable and delicious Vietnamese meal. Here you’ll find traditional Northern Vietnamese dishes prepared with homestyle care. They serve a wonderful bowl of pho, but on the website you’ll find a disclaimer by the family stating that Vietnamese food has so much more to offer than the bowls of broth and noodles.

Hanoi Kitchen’s menu includes the standard dishes many adventurous diners will recognize, plus lesser-known regional dishes. Their Grandmother’s banh cuon is a signature staple as is their bun ha noi dac biet vermicelli bowl. There are also plenty of vegetarian/vegan options — including vegan pho. When you stop in, be sure to try something new. You won’t be disappointed.

Hanoi Kitchen is located at 7925 NE Glisan Street and is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.

9. Proud Mary Cafe

This Australian-based coffee roaster chose Portland as its first expansion destination, bringing its exquisite coffee and Aussie fare to the Pacific Northwest. Proud Mary coffee shop and cafe offers up cups of the rarest roasts, some of which you won’t find anywhere else in the country, plus delicious brunch and lunch options.

The Melbourne spins on avocado toast and potato hash are absolutely delectable, and the Dutch honey hotcakes are as tasty as they are beautiful. The cafe does take reservations during the week but not on the weekends. Be sure to arrive early to get your name on the list if you want to enjoy a sit-down dining experience as spots are limited and the space gets very busy on the weekends.

Proud Mary is located at 2012 NE Alberta Street and is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Note that the kitchen closes daily at 3 p.m.

Headed to Oregon? Here’s why you should make time for Astoria, plus how to visit Multnomah Falls.

The Best Things To See And Do On Washington’s San Juan Islands

Off the coast of the Pacific Northwest and 60 miles north of Seattle lies an archipelago of 172 islands, the San Juans, in the Salish Sea. Oh, and they are stunningly beautiful.

There are three main islands: San Juan, Orcas, and Lopez, plus several smaller islands with year-round inhabitants, and there are so many unique adventures to be had on them. Here are some of the best things to see and do during your San Juan Islands vacation.

A whale off the coast of Washington. — Pacific Whale Watch Association

Whale Watching In The San Juans

When I visit the San Juan Islands, I’m fortunate to have access to a close friend’s boat for all my whale watching (and crabbing) experiences. I even spent one trip boat camping off Orcas Island, which is something I recommend at least once. Of course, having access to a friend’s boat is not the only way to see the San Juans — or the whales that live around them.

Whale watching excursions are available from San Juan, Lopez, and Orcas islands, but to stack the deck for seeing a pod of orcas or other whales, leave from San Juan Island. The best opportunity to see Orcas is from June to September when they forage on salmon in the area’s waters.

Another tip is to book with a company that is part of the Pacific Whale Watch Association. This professional spotting network communicates whale sighting locations and times to the network so member boats can travel there. Some members of this network find whales and other sea and wildlife on 90 percent of their tours.

The best place to whale watch on land is from San Juan’s Lime Kiln Point State Park on the west side of the island. With over 2,500 feet of shoreline, it’s nicknamed Whale Watch Park.

Kayaking in the San Juan Islands. — Bureau of Land Management Oregon and Washington / Flickr

Kayaking In The San Juans

There are unguided, guided, and overnight/camping options for kayaking in the San Juans. You can rent kayaks by the hour for unguided exploring or take a three- or five-hour guided tour. You’ll find many good options leaving from Roche Harbor and Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.

Guided tours include paddling through the island’s west-side killer whale sanctuary and sunset outings, or an evening bioluminescence tour to see glowing plankton — best seen after a hot, sunny day during a new moon.

Extreme sea kayaking tours let participants experience the islands in the most unique way. These are two- or three-day-long tours that involve kayaking and camping. A three-day trip with a night on Stuart Island is an especially unforgettable experience as Stuart is only accessible by private boat or kayak and has 33,000 feet of shoreline and hiking trails through old-growth forests.

You can book with a kayaking company offering all-inclusive trips. You bring the clothes specified on their packing list and they provide the rest, including valuable expertise and knowledge.

Fishing boats off the coast of the San Juan Islands. — Cascade Creatives / Shutterstock

Fishing And Crabbing In The San Juans

Eating a Dungeness crab you caught changes the way you look at restaurant crab forever. My experience started with baiting the crab pot, dropping it from the back of a boat, and returning later with high hopes of finding crab-stuffed pots. Then we boiled and ate our catch.

You can have this same experience by taking an early morning or afternoon open boat charter. FYI, the average passenger leaves with approximately five crabs, but we had leftovers after catching and cooking three.

If you want to catch salmon, look for a four- to five-hour open boat charter trip. For the best price go between July and September. If you’re traveling to the islands in the winter, you’ll be just in time for the best Chinook salmon fishing.

A seaplane landing off the coast of Washington. — Chris Allan / Shutterstock

Seaplane Tour Of The Islands

Taking a Seaplane tour of the San Juan Islands is on my bucket list. It falls into the once-in-a-lifetime experience category.

Check out some of the small aviation companies offering tours of the San Juans and combo tours that include Mount Baker — one of the area’s active volcanoes. Planes take off from Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.

View from the summit of Mount Constitution. — Lesley Haenny

Hiking In The San Juans

After experiencing the rich beauty of the Salish Sea and its inhabitants, get back on land and explore the islands. On land, you can hike, bike, and explore aquaculture, lavender farms, historic sights, and old-growth forests.

There’s a lot of ground to cover, and there are hiking trails everywhere. It’s easy to pick the best hike to start with — Mount Constitution on Orcas Island.

The highest point in the island archipelago and part of Moran State Park, Mount Constitution is open year-round. The hiking trail to the top has a 1,490-foot elevation gain and is seven miles roundtrip, meaning this is no easy hike. You can also bike (May to October) or drive up the mountain.

At the top, you’ll find a 63-foot-tall stone observation tower with (on a clear day) a 360-degree view of the islands, Mount Baker, both the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges, the Canadian Gulf Islands, and Vancouver Island. In other words, you can see everything.

The park trails are dirt paths with wood plank bridges and some shorter trails connect to picturesque lakes and a waterfall. You can picnic, fish, and even swim in the lakes. Or drive up Mt Constitution Road to enjoy the views in comfort and with ease.

English Camp on Garrison Bay. — VisitSanJuans.com

Explore History On San Juan Island

On San Juan Island there are remnants of English and American army encampments from the mid-1800s. The camps were set up on opposite ends of the island after the Pig War in 1859. You can learn the full story of the Pig War when you visit.

American Camp, on the southern end of the island, has hiking trails through prairie landscapes and a chance to see the resident nesting bald eagles. To the west, there’s trail access to South Beach, the longest stretch of public shoreline in the San Juans, and Fourth of July Beach to the east.

English Camp is on Garrison Bay and has a few buildings, a cemetery, and formal gardens remaining. There is a steep hiking trail up to the cemetery and an easier loop through the woods along the bay.

On Saturdays June through August, park rangers recreate military and civilian life in the camps, and there’s a full reenactment one weekend in July. Both historic sights are open year-round, but their visitor centers are open Memorial Day to Labor Day, so plan accordingly.

Pelindaba Lavendar Farm. — OleSeattle / Shuttestock.com

Visit Pelindaba Lavender Farm On San Juan Island

After visiting American Camp, drive or bike up to Pelindaba Lavender Farm. The farm is open May to October, but the fields are in full purple bloom from July through August. Between October and May, visitors are welcome to walk the fields.

If you visit during the summer months, you can walk the fields, cut a bouquet, buy plants to take home, visit the lavender essence distillery, visit the shop, and have a picnic.

Oysters from the Westcott Bay Shellfish Company. — Westcott Bay Shellfish Company

Eating On The San Juan Islands

The best food on the San Juan Islands is locally sourced and boasts a farm-to-table culture that’s captured national attention. Using ingredients farmed on the islands and pulled from the Salish Sea, artisan chefs create amazing eating experiences.

Salish Sea Shellfish

To have an “only in the San Juans” experience, trek to eat oysters, clams, or muscles at one of the island’s aquaculture farms.

On San Juan Island, Westcott Bay Shellfish Company is a family-owned working aquaculture farm. You’ll plunge your hands into cold water, choose your own shellfish, and shuck them (shucking demonstrations are provided). Eat at one of the family-style waterside picnic tables mid-May to September 1 and on Saturday afternoons in the off-season.

Farm-To-Table Dining

On the northern edge of Lopez Island, Chef Nick Coffey is creating a hyper-local food experience at Ursa Minor. The restaurant serves small shared plates and relies on ingredients from local farms, the Salish Sea, and foragers.

Over on smaller Lummi Island (which is northwest of the San Juans in Whatcom County), you’ll find a menu with similar devotion to farm, sea, and foraging at the award-winning Willows Inn. The website quotes Chef Blaine Wetzel who “has described his approach to food as a ‘story about the land.’”

Great Bakeries On The San Juan Islands

Baking on the San Juan Islands centers on the same attention to ingredient sourcing and artistry as the farm-to-table restaurants. Barn Owl Bakery is on Lopez Island and has a unique focus on grain sourcing. You can buy their bread at the islands’ farmers market and at Ursa Minor.

Located in the old Eastsound Fire Station on Orcas Island is Roses Bakery Cafe. This bakery uses European techniques to produce incredibly crusty bread. They also have deli offerings, wines from the Pacific Northwest, and picnic supplies perfect for packing provisions and exploring Lopez.

Also in Eastsound is Brown Bear Baking. They’re best known for their cinnamon rolls, which always sell out early, and also serve breakfast, brunch, and lunch.

Getting To The San Juan Islands

For my visits, I flew to Seattle and took a car to the ferry in Anacortes. The Washington State Ferry website has schedule, fare, and reservation information. Book two to three months early for peak season travel (May to September) and allow three to four hours between flight arrival and ferry departure if you want to head to the San Juans the same day you fly in.

Discovering Basque Culture In Boise, Idaho

We love making unexpected cultural discoveries on our travels. If you do too, then head to Boise, Idaho, right away. On our recent visit, we discovered that Boise has a thriving Basque community. In fact, Boise is home to the largest concentration of Basque people in the United States.

Many Basques immigrated to the area during the late 1800s to work as sheepherders. Those who came to Idaho found the work plentiful and told their friends and relatives back home to come and join them. And while the sheepherding business has since fallen away, many people with roots in the Basque Country, the mountainous region of Europe straddling France and Spain, remain in Boise.

The Basque Block is a thriving, walkable neighborhood in the heart of downtown Boise filled with Basque history, culture, and cuisine. You’ll know you are there when you see a large wall mural and artwork marking the entrance to the area. During our time in Boise, we were fortunate to experience the authentic flavors, sights, and sounds of this vibrant community. We visited markets, restaurants, museums, and historic sites as we immersed ourselves in a wonderful culture that we’d known little about before our trip.

Here are just a few of the highlights that made us want to experience even more of the Basque culture.

Inside the Basque Museum in Boise. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

The Basque Museum And Cultural Center

Because we knew so little about the Basque people, we thought we’d start by getting some basic information. Who are the Basques, where do they come from, and how did they end up in Boise, Idaho, of all places?

We learned the answers to these questions and many more at The Basque Museum and Cultural Center. The only Basque museum in the United States, this cultural hub offers a number of permanent and temporary exhibits covering the Basque Country in Europe, the immigration of the Basque people to the United States, and aspects of the group’s culture and lifestyle. We explored a photo exhibit honoring the inner strength of Basque women that featured more than 100 portraits of those who traveled from their homeland to the West. Video interviews offered insights into the personal journeys of these incredible women. Each woman provided such inspiration that we had to tear ourselves away to explore other offerings. The museum also has a small gift shop where you can purchase everything from apparel and accessories to books and souvenirs.

The Cyrus Jacobs boarding house in Boise. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

The Cyrus Jacobs House

When Basque immigrants came to Idaho seeking work, many of them found it as sheepherders. They had a solitary and seasonal life while they were busy moving the sheep, but they craved a sense of community, and when the work was on hiatus, they flocked to the city.

This led to the development of a strong Basque social network in Boise and ultimately the establishment of rooming houses where immigrants could stay temporarily. The Cyrus Jacobs House, the oldest surviving brick house in Boise today, was built in 1864 for Cyrus Jacobs and his wife. By 1910 the private home had been converted into a Basque boarding house. Over the next 50 years, the house served as a social center for Basque immigrants to Idaho and was integral in preserving Basque food, music, dance, and other cultural elements in Boise. The home was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1975.

Tours of the home are available, and you get a real sense of what life was like in the early and mid-1900s for the Basque immigrants who stayed there. You can even see marks on the brick walls where the occupants struck matches to light their cigarettes.

The Basque Market

Of course, since we’re culinary travel writers, we love to experience a culture by trying its cuisine. So it’s no surprise that we spent a great deal of time exploring what Basque food and drink are all about, and one of the best places to do that is at The Basque Market.

The Basque Market is both a place to shop and a place to dine. Like the Basque Block itself, it’s a compact, jam-packed spot loaded with information and authentic tastes of the Old Country.

The first thing you’ll notice when you look around the market is that its walls are lined with all manner of products — food, wine, accessories, spices, and more. While some of the products are local or from other parts of Europe, products from the Basque Country are labeled with little Basque flags for easy identification. Giant paella pans hang from the ceiling, highlighting one of the market’s most celebrated specialties. We perused the many other offerings, including olives, preserved seafood and vegetables, peppers, and wine.

Dining is generally at communal tables, so we joined a family who was in the midst of a long road trip. We made it just in time to nab one of the last paella specials, which included chef’s-choice tapas, paella, salad, and a fresh dinner roll. We had fun chatting with the folks at our table as well as exploring the unique aspects of Basque cuisine.

In addition to lunch and dinner, the market hosts weekday happy hours, classes, private parties, and events. Every Wednesday and Friday at noon, there’s a “Paella on the Patio” event where you can sip a glass of wine or soda while watching the employees make paella for the paella lunch.

Pinxtos at the Basque Market in Boise. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

Other Places To Eat And Drink

There are other spots where you can taste Basque cuisine on the Basque Block. Leku Ona was opened by a sheepherder immigrant from the Basque Country who decided to stay in Boise. The restaurant’s name means “good place,” giving you a sense of just how much the Basque people feel at home here. The restaurant offers fine Basque dining prepared by Basque chefs, and the menu features traditional dishes such as croquettes and red bean soup as well as modern takes like Basque burgers and Basque BLTs. Enjoy a Basque wine to complete your meal. If you like the vibe, you can book a room at the adjoining hotel.

Bar Gernika is another spot on the Basque Block where locals hang out. It’s a casual spot with plenty to choose from, whether you want a snack, a meal, something sweet, or just a drink. Solomo, or marinated pork, and chorizo, or Basque pork sausage, are on the menu, as are Basque-style rice pudding and flan to satisfy your sweet tooth. True to its name, Bar Gernika offers a lot of local brews, ciders, and even wines and unusual drinks like wine with cola that are straight out of the Basque Country playbook.

An art mural in the Basque Block. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

Festivals And Events

Many groups love to celebrate their culture with food, music, dance, and arts festivals. The Basques in Boise are no exception. Jaialdi means “festival” in the Basque language, and Jaialdi is a huge celebration of Basque culture that takes place every five years in Boise. It welcomes more than 40,000 attendees, so it generally takes place at the Idaho Fairgrounds. The festival offers dance and musical entertainment by performers from around the world. There are also fun sports exhibitions and competitions such as weight lifting, wood chopping, and hay-bale throwing as well as plenty of food and drink. This spirited event highlights Basque culture and teaches visitors about the living heritage the festivities represent. The next Jaialdi is scheduled to take place in the summer of 2020.

The San Inazio Basque Festival is an annual event honoring Saint Ignatius Loyola, the patron saint of the Basques. Held right on the Basque Block, this three-day celebration attracts thousands of attendees, both Basques and people interested in Basque culture. Dance troupes, musicians, and athletes provide entertainment for adults and children alike. There’s plenty of Basque food available, too. Hosted by Boise’s Basque Center, the festival provides a gathering place for Basques as well as an opportunity to promote Basque culture.

We’ve just scratched the surface of what you will discover of Basque culture in Boise. It’s a surprising but significant part of the city’s history. After visiting the Basque Block and learning about its people and history, getting a taste of Basque cuisine, and experiencing Basque hospitality, we were happy to have discovered this cultural treasure in Boise. Now we’re considering traveling to the Basque Country itself!

9 Tips For Visiting France’s Mont-Saint-Michel

Mont-Saint-Michel is a unique island just off the coast of Normandy, France. Each day, the road leading to the island is swallowed by the tide. That alone is enough to make it an interesting stop on a vacation to France, but the island’s historic significance and UNESCO status make it especially appealing.

You won’t be able to visit this small island on a whim, so you’ll need to do some planning. If you’re going to be visiting France and want to make a stop at Mont-Saint-Michel, here are a few tips to keep in mind.

Mont-Saint-Michel in France. — javarman / Shutterstock

1. Decide How You Will Get To The Island

Mont-Saint-Michel is not the dictionary definition of accessible. Because of this, you’ll want to take some time to determine how you’ll get to the island. If you’re hoping to make Mont-Saint-Michel a day trip from Paris, know that the drive is more than 4 hours long. However, the island is just 90 minutes from Rennes, France.

Another thing that might surprise you is that you aren’t allowed to drive your car directly up to Mont-Saint-Michel. Instead, you must park in an auxiliary lot on the mainland and take a shuttle over. Parking in the auxiliary lot is pricey, especially for larger vehicles during the busy season, so be sure to work the cost into your budget. You’re charged for a 24-hour period, so you pay for the whole day even if you only stay for 12 hours, and you’re charged for another full day if you stay just a little longer than 24 hours.

If you’re up for an adventure, you can walk the footbridge to the island instead of taking the shuttle from the auxiliary lot. This will give you a wonderful view of Mont-Saint-Michel and plenty of fantastic photo opportunities.

You can also reach the island by train or bus. Several services to the island’s train and bus stations are available from surrounding cities. You can check the schedules and book tickets on Omio or Trainline.

The streets of Mont-Saint-Michel. — John Ceulemans / Shutterstock

2. If You Can’t Stand Crowds, Consider Visiting During The Off-Season

July and August are some of the busiest times of the year for Mont-Saint-Michel. The small island can become very crowded during these months, since the warmer weather and lower amounts of precipitation attract droves of visitors. If you’re okay with this, summer is a wonderful time to visit.

If you’d prefer not to battle the crowds, traveling to Mont-Saint-Michel between October and May would be best.

Mont-Saint-Michel at nighttime. — Vicky SP / Shutterstock

3. Beat The Crowds By Staying Overnight

If you’re traveling to Mont-Saint-Michel during the summer, you can avoid the tourist rush by staying overnight on the island. Mont-Saint-Michel sees thinner crowds in the early morning and late evening, when most tourists either haven’t arrived yet or have already left for the day. This kind of visit is ideal for photographers looking for the best shots, since staying the night offers a chance to see the island at night — it’s simply breathtaking!

There are a few hotels to choose from on the island, and they range in price. La Vieille Auberge tends to offer lower rates than the surrounding hotels. Among the other options is La Croix Blanche, which serves up incredibly tasty, fluffy omelets.

Inside the abbey at Mont-Saint-Michel. — Victor Maschek / Shutterstock

4. Purchase Tickets Ahead Of Time

During the busy season, Mont-Saint-Michel is teeming with tourists and visitors. This means you’ll spend more time waiting for shuttles and more time waiting for tickets. You can, however, purchase tickets ahead of time in some instances. This will allow you to skip the lines and make your way directly to the ticket check.

Some people, including those under the age of 18, may qualify for free tickets. Visitors ages 18 to 25 from countries outside the EU pay a reduced price. These people are required to present their identification and can’t use the electronic ticketing system ahead of time.

If no one in your party qualifies for free or reduced admission, you can get the most out of your visit by purchasing tickets before you arrive. Tickets aren’t for a specific day and are valid up to one year after they are purchased.

Reflection of Mont-Saint-Michel during high tide. — Ivan Smuk / Shutterstock

5. Check The Tidal Calendar Before You Visit

When high tide rolls in, most of the bay around Mont-Saint-Michel fills with water. During extreme high tides, which take place only a handful of times each year, the land surrounding Mont-Saint-Michel is completely submerged in water, turning Mont-Saint-Michel into a true island. The most aggressive high tides take place a few days after the full moon. Check the tidal calendar while planning your visit if you want to witness the most dramatic tide changes.

During the periods where the tides differ the most, the water can rise up to 50 feet, and during low tide, the water will retract 9.3 miles out to sea and return very quickly. The speed at which the tide rolls in has been compared to that of galloping horses, so it’s a wonderful event to try and catch on your visit to Mont-Saint-Michel. It’s also a reason why you shouldn’t explore the bay during low tide without a professional guide.

Inside Mont-Saint-Michel. — Rolf E. Staerk / Shutterstock

6. Allow Plenty Of Time For Your Visit

The island itself may be small, but you’ll still want to give yourself plenty of time to explore all it has to offer. You won’t want to miss the food, the abbey tour, or the walk around the castle simply because you didn’t leave enough time to experience them.

The landscape is steep, and there are plenty of steep stairways to accompany it. These might slow you down a bit, so be sure to factor the extra time into your itinerary. Take your time on the stairs and allow yourself to catch your breath between flights.

Sheep grazing near Mont-Saint-Michel. — canadastock / Shutterstock

7. Bring Layers

If you’ve spent any time near the ocean, you know that coastal areas can feel quite chilly at times. Mont-Saint-Michel is no exception — it’s constantly exposed to sea breezes that can make it feel colder than the mainland. Average temperatures float between the 40s and 50s before wind is factored in, so even a nice summer day in Normandy can be chilly on the island. Pack some warm layers that are easy to carry. Checking the weather ahead of time can help you decide what clothing you’ll need to bring.

Mont-Saint-Michel in the morning fog. — DaLiu / Shutterstock

8. Make Sure You’ve Got Lots Of Room For Photos

There are a lot of stunning sights in and around Mont-Saint-Michel. Whether you’re using your phone or a separate camera, make sure to leave plenty of room for new photos. Bring along some extra batteries for your camera or a power bar for your phone to make sure you don’t miss a single photo opportunity. Both daytime and nighttime bring spectacular vistas, so if you’re looking to take lots of unique photos on your trip, be sure to stay at Mont-Saint-Michel from sunrise to sunset.

La Mere Poulard on Mont-Saint-Michel. — aurelie le moigne / Shutterstock

9. Arrive Hungry

Bring your appetite with you when you travel to Mont-Saint-Michel — there are a couple of foods the island is famous for! First, there are the iconic omelets at La Mère Poulard, which are made from a recipe that has been a secret for more than 100 years. Guests can watch the fluffy delicacies being whipped up and cooked over an open wood fire.

Another tasty treat found on Mont-Saint-Michel is shortbread, which is sold at several shops on the island.

Normandy is also famous for its apples — particularly, its cider apples. The apples of the region are bright and acidic, making them perfect for hard cider and fresh-pressed apple juice.

Mont-Saint-Michel is a French landmark that is not to be missed on any adventure to the country’s northern regions. Its unique history and one-of-a-kind landscape are simply marvelous, and if you follow our travel tips, you’ll be sure to make the most of your time there.

Planning a trip to France and want to enjoy Paris off the beaten path? Check out these hidden gems, delightful shops, surprising things to do, and lesser-known churches in the city.