Why Cedar City, Utah Is A Must-Visit

About 250 miles south of Salt Lake City, Cedar City, Utah, is home to fewer than 30,000 people, but it has more than its share of attractions, adventures, and activities.

It’s just 58 miles north of Zion National Park and 75 miles west of Bryce Canyon National Park, making it the perfect base for anyone exploring the natural beauty of the American Southwest. But Cedar City is much more than a base for road-trippers. It’s a lively university town, and there’s always something happening there, from festivals and artistic events to great food experiences.

What To Do In Cedar City

Cedar City is sometimes nicknamed the Festival City, owing to its year-round list of fun events. As you’ll see, there’s one festival in particular that’s a must for anyone coming to the area — and there’s plenty to keep you busy in between the official schedule of events!

Enjoy The Utah Shakespeare Festival

One of the finest Shakespeare festivals in the world, the Utah Shakespeare Festival at Southern Utah University is a Tony Award-winning production running through the summer and into early fall. Three Shakespeare productions are staged each season, as well as modern plays.

Taking in a show is much more than a simple night at the theater. Set in a playhouse modeled on Shakespeare’s original Globe Theatre in London, the preshow activities are half the fun. The Green Show features puppet shows, strolling minstrels, vendors selling various treats, and more. Visitors can also enjoy backstage tours, special literary lectures, and seminars on props and costumes. The adjacent Shakespeare Character Garden is filled with sculptures of Shakespearean characters.

Utah isn’t the first place people think of when they think of Shakespearean destinations — and that is exactly what first attracted me to the area. It’s unexpected and unique and provides a welcome dose of art and culture in a region most famous for its natural attractions and adventures.

Visit The Southern Utah Museum Of Art

Completed in 2016, the Southern Utah Museum of Art has won rave reviews for its amazing architecture — the building resembles a slot canyon! The museum features the work of regional artists known for their landscapes, the work of student and faculty artists, and the work of emerging artists from across the United States.

Admission is free, and there are frequent exhibitions.

An old ore shovel at the Frontier Homestead State Park Museum. — Traveller70 / Shutterstock

Explore The Frontier Homestead State Park Museum

Step back in time to discover the early history of Cedar City and the surrounding area at the Frontier Homestead State Park Museum. An extensive horse-drawn wagon collection tells the story of the hardships the settlers endured as they crossed the country in pursuit of a better life. A sawmill and replica blast furnace pay tribute to the industries that further developed the area.

Hands-on activities like Christmas at the Homestead, Sheep-to-Shawl, and Archaeology Days offer fun and interactive learning for every member of the family.

Stop By The IG Winery

Sourcing grapes from Utah, California, Oregon, and Washington, the IG Winery brings a note of sophistication to Cedar City and has some great options for wine lovers who are looking for something just a little bit different. The Tempest red blend is named for the city’s Shakespeare Festival.

Cedar Breaks National Monument in Utah. — Oscity / Shutterstock

Marvel At Cedar Breaks National Monument

About 25 miles away from Cedar City is Cedar Breaks National Monument. National monuments are often overshadowed by national parks, but Cedar Breaks is stunning and holds its own against Zion and Bryce Canyon.

Cedar Breaks sits at 10,000 feet and overlooks a geologic amphitheater half a mile deep filled with hoodoo rock formations, bristlecone pine trees (the oldest is an estimated 1,600 years old!), and some of the most beautiful wildflowers in the state.

Visitors can enjoy “star parties” (telescopes are provided), hikes, guided ranger talks and tours, and the services of the Zion Natural History Association’s bookstore. A four-season destination, Cedar Breaks offers a wildflower festival in July, incredible views of the fall colors in autumn (Cedar Breaks is considered one of the top leaf-peeping spots in the U.S.), and snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and snowmobiling in winter.

Participate In The Southwest Astronomy Festival

This annual festival, which takes place in late September, occurs at multiple locations between Cedar Breaks National Monument and Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument. The Southwest Astronomy Festival events include star parties, sun parties, night hikes, and much more.

Where To Eat In Cedar City

Cedar City might just be the next hot foodie town, since the food is an attraction in and of itself. In Cedar City, you’ll find students from across the country, literary lovers from around the world, plus adventurous locals. As such, the food scene is diverse, affordable, and constantly evolving.

Here are some of my favorite places to eat in the area.

Centro Woodfired Pizzeria

There are plenty of chain pizzerias in Cedar City, but for something unique (and incredibly tasty), give Centro Woodfired Pizzeria a try. Some of their quirky varieties include fennel and sausage, pancetta and grape, and prosciutto and apricot. There are plenty of vegetarian options, too, plus salads and sandwiches.

Rusty’s Ranch House

Rusty’s Ranch House is a ranch-themed restaurant surrounded by great mountain views and a touch of ’80s-esque decor (but not in a bad way!). This is the place to go for laid-back steak, seafood, barbecue, burgers, and pasta.

All American Diner

Inexpensive, down to earth, and offering quick service, the All American Diner is where you go when you want breakfast, lunch, or dinner for under $10. For breakfast, try the French toast with a choice of breakfast meat and two eggs. The patty melt lunch platter is both tasting and filling, and the pepper steak sirloin with mushrooms, onions, and brown gravy makes a great dinner.

Perks

Perks will satisfy even the most discerning of coffee lovers. They have a great selection of classic coffee-shop drinks, a long list of specialty syrups (including year-round pumpkin spice!), and a nice mix of smoothies, wraps, and sandwiches. There are lots of good coffee houses in town, but this is my personal favorite.

The Soda Nerd

The Soda Nerd offers specialty sodas, shaved ice, smoothies, cookies, and cotton candy. It’s the perfect place for a treat after a long day of hiking — or a long evening of Shakespeare!

The French Spot

The last thing you’d expect to find in a small city in the American Southwest is a French chef with a Michelin star. But The French Spot’s chef is still cooking like he’s in Lyon, turning out light French bistro fare. If you want to buy a small gift for a Cedar City local, pop in for a package of their elegant macarons or bring them breakfast in the form of airy croissants and takeout cafe au laits.

Where To Shop In Cedar City

Cedar City’s celebrated downtown is famous for its small, independent shops, tempting coffee houses, and historic public buildings.

Special spots to look out for include The Candy Factory (just as tempting as the name suggests), which shares a spot with the Boomer’s Bloomers flower shop. At the Artisans Gallery, you can buy fine art by local artists (or just happily browse if the prices are out of range). At Main Street Books, Cedar City’s only independent bookstore, you can pick up new, used, and collectible reading material. And if you’re planning for mega adventures, Outdoor Vitals is one of the best stores in the state for ultralight camping gear.

Where To Stay In Cedar City

Cedar City has a strong selection of hotel and motel accommodations, ranging from inexpensive chains like Knights Inn, Super 8, and Motel 6 to business properties like Marriott, Best Western, and La Quinta Inn & Suites. There are also several independent bed and breakfasts that are perfect for Shakespeare fans.

Big Yellow Inn Bed And Breakfast

My favorite place to stay in Cedar City, the Big Yellow Inn is a Georgian Revival bed and breakfast with 12 beautifully decorated rooms, many with access to a balcony (the English Room is my favorite). There are also eight fireplaces, three sitting rooms, a great room, a library, and a full breakfast served in an elegant breakfast room. Prices start at just over $100, and it’s a short walk to the Shakespeare Festival.

Bard’s Inn Bed And Breakfast

A sister property to the Big Yellow Inn, the Bard’s Inn dates to 1912 and has rooms named after Shakespearean characters. Some of the rooms feature balconies with private entrances, while others have small kitchens.

Ozark Mountains Road Trip: Osage Beach To Eureka Springs

Take a meandering route through Missouri and into northern Arkansas to enjoy scenery that changes with the seasons. The Ozark Mountains span four states and consist of a plateau that covers 50,000 square miles. There’s plenty of hiking, rivers, lakes, and caves interspaced amongst the wilderness areas, making for a great road trip adventure with both scenery and historical destinations.

Years ago, I traveled this route as part of an assignment that involved researching why people live in particular areas. Life in these parts is slow-paced, almost reflective. What I found during the road trip was that a good many people choose to live in this area for the lifestyle; they value the slower pace and the access to nature and its outdoor activities. It’s a pleasant drive through a peaceful and scenic area when you follow the rolling hills from Osage Beach, Missouri, to Eureka Springs, Arkansas.

Osage Beach

Start your road trip in Osage Beach, located along the shores of the Lake of the Ozarks. Lake of the Ozarks, made notorious by the Netflix series Ozark, boasts more than 1,150 miles of scenic shoreline. Known for its miles of gorgeous coastline and a multitude of water activities, Osage Beach is an ideal starting point to explore the lake and nearby towns.

Spend a few days on the water with a rented pontoon boat or jet ski from The Getaway, take a camera and visit the swinging bridge, or tour the oldest legal distillery in the county, Ozark Distillery. Just two miles from Osage Beach is Lake of the Ozarks State Park, located on an undeveloped cove, hidden along the shorelines of the lake. There are boat rentals at the park so you can spend time fishing, take a historic site tour, or try one of the park’s two swimming beaches. For indoor water fun, visit the Jolly Mon Indoor Water Park with its 600 feet of water slides. Then check out Lee Mace’s Ozark Opry museum and learn about this once-sold-out country show, or watch a live performance at the Main Street Music Hall.

For dinner, try Michael’s Steak Chalet, located on a cliff overlooking the lake at the 28-mile marker. The restaurant is known for its prime rib, but you’ll also find generous cuts of filets and strip steak aged 28 days and hand trimmed. Plus, you can pair a steak with a cold-water lobster tail, grilled salmon, or blackened tuna.

Stay at one of the many resorts in the area. Or, if you want the amenities of a resort but prefer a home environment instead of a hotel room, Tan-Tar-A-Estates is just minutes from the Margaritaville Lake Resort. Utilize the amenities of the resort such as the Fin’s Up indoor pool and fitness center, but stay in a standalone home with views of the Lake of the Ozarks or Hidden Lakes Golf course. Each house contains two-to-three hotel rooms with private entrances. Rent the entire house or one or two units, depending on your needs. If you prefer not to drive, a shuttle service will take you from your unit to the Margaritaville activities.

The ruins of Ha Ha Tonka near Camdenton. — Chuck W Walker / Shutterstock

Stop In Camdenton

Just 15 minutes from Osage Beach you’ll arrive in Camdenton, known as The Hub City of the Ozarks.

Spend the day discovering nature and history at Ha Ha Tonka State Park. There, you can see the ruins of Ha Ha Tonka, a stone mansion that was modeled after European castles of the 16th century, and wander a geologic wonderland that features sinkholes, caves, a huge natural bridge, sheer bluffs, and Missouri’s 12th largest spring. There are a series of trails and boardwalks that make it easy to discover the historic castle, wooded areas, and open rocky glades.

You can also tour Bridal Cave before heading to Lebanon. Bridal Cave and Thunder Mountain Park is a family favorite with guided tours that take you through the cave to discover incredible mineral deposits, giant columns, and delicate soda straws. The struggle between water and rock created the cavern, which contains more onyx formations than any other known cave or cavern.

Before leaving for Lebanon, stop for dinner at The Trophy Room at Old Kinderhook (or, if you’re not ready to move on, stay a night at their resort). The wild mushroom flatbread is a delicious starter of herbed cream cheese, wild mushrooms, mozzarella cheese, chopped greens, and truffle oil. For dinner, try the osso buco, a braised veal shank served with jalapeno cheddar grits, asparagus, and veal demi-glace.

Lebanon

Twenty-five miles south of Camdenton, you’ll arrive in Lebanon. The historic downtown has unique shops, antique stores, and an outlet mall. Antique enthusiasts will enjoy the Heartland Antique Mall, the largest of its kind between Joplin and St. Louis, home to 250 dealers.

An important stop along Historic Route 66, Boswell Park recognizes the location with murals featuring historic images of the route. There’s also an annual Route 66 Festival in June with a parade, live entertainment, family games, and more. The Route 66 Museum and Research Center is located in the Lebanon-Laclede County Library.

For me, nearby Bennett Spring State Park holds many memories of annual float trips along the Niangua River, plus time spent at the park watching the fly fishermen stand in the waters to fish. There are plenty of hiking options, too, with 12 miles of hiking trails. Stop by the interpretive center, spend the night in one of the cabins, eat at the rustic dining lodge, and take a hatchery tour while there.

Springfield

This Ozark city is known as the Pulse of the Ozarks. The city has a small-town feel and its activities are rooted in history and place. To learn more about Springfield, be sure to visit its points of interest along Historical Route 66. For more historical references, visit the site of the “Wild Bill” Hickok shootout, take the Battle of Springfield Tour, see the History Museum on the Square, or visit Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield.

Local restaurants are a great way to experience the culture of a city, and Springfield has a variety of options. Sample authentic Italian cuisine at Archie’s Italian Eatery, get smoky barbecue at Buckingham’s BBQ, or enjoy wine pairings at Cellar + Plate, a communal wine house.

Stay for a night or more at the rustic Bass Pro Shops Angler’s Lodge. Across the street you can visit the Bass Pro Shop, a Springfield draw in its own right. Also across the street is the Wonders of Wildlife National Museum and Aquarium.

Branson

A little less than an hour drive takes you to Branson. There’s plenty to do, but you definitely won’t want to miss the live entertainment; 76 Country Boulevard is lined with theatres putting on country music as well as diverse entertainment choices. You can also consider these 10 things to do in Branson besides seeing shows. Shop and eat at Branson Landing, brave a zipline adventure, or spend time on the water at Table Rock Lake.

A ride in Silver Dollar City. — Silver Dollar City Press

Spend A Day At Silver Dollar City

Step back in time at this one-of-a-kind 1800s theme park. Attend a show and watch a gunfight, dress up in period clothing for an old-time photoshoot, explore a log cabin to learn about pioneer life, ride the rides, and, of course, enjoy live music. If you need more than a day to explore Silver Dollar City, camp or rent a cabin and a shuttle will transport you back and forth.

Eureka Springs

This road trip ends in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, a city settled in the late 1800s after stories got out that it had healing springs. The city later became renowned as an artist’s colony, attracting writers, musicians, and visual artists. The scenery is spectacular. Lush trees and hills make it a top fall foliage destination. Between the Victorian architecture, a vibrant arts community, the springs, and outdoor activities, Eureka Springs is a favorite destination.

This funky town has a vibrant food scene as well. Have an affordable and immersive fine-dining experience at Le Stick Nouveau. Enjoy the lobster mac and cheese pot pie. Or try the artichoke appetizer and a bowl of pasta at Ermilio’s Italian Home Cooking, winner, for four years in a row, of the Arkansas Times’ Reader’s Choice award for Best Restaurant in Eureka Springs and Best Italian Restaurant in Arkansas.

Lodging options are as varied as this delightful city. Stay in the majestic 1886 Crescent Hotel and Spa, a Historic Hotel of America, or rent a unique cottage through Eureka Zen.

Pro Tips

To extend your scenic drive, take the HWY 187 Loop, a 20-mile loop that crosses three bodies of water, or, for more healing waters, head south and enjoy the best things to do in Hot Springs, Arkansas.

7 Best Hikes To Experience In Southern Illinois

I grew up in Southern Illinois, and my wife is a hiker. I’ve been on hikes in Southern Illinois at age seven, and I’ve been on hikes in Southern Illinois at age 47.

And I’ve always told people that Southern Illinois isn’t like the rest of the state. If you’ve been to Central Illinois, you know that it’s perhaps the flattest terrain in the United States. The glaciers didn’t let a single hill remain — it’s perfectly flat as far as the eye can see. But once you get south of Interstate 70, the unofficial place where Southern Illinois begins, you will see terrain that will make you think you’re in Virginia or Montana. That’s what makes Southern Illinois the best place to hike in the state — and even, perhaps, in the Midwest.

Here are seven great hikes to experience in the area.

The Garden of the Gods Recreation Area in Illinois. — Oleksandr Koretskyi / Shutterstock

1. Garden Of The Gods Recreation Area Trails

Herod

We’ll start with the “Am I really in Southern Illinois?” spot. It’s easy to get confused, given that there’s a place called Garden of the Gods in Colorado as well. But yes, this is Southern Illinois, and the views are absolutely incredible.

There are many different ways to experience the Garden of the Gods Recreation Area, so this is perhaps the best spot on this list for those looking for a wide variety of experiences. If you’re a runner looking for a difficult workout, you can run a 10+ mile loop trail with significant climbs. Or if you’re wanting to take your mom or dad on a flat trail that’s less than half a mile and provides incredible views, you can do that as well. Most trails in the area can be extended, shortened, or combined to give you the length and difficulty you desire.

The centerpiece of all these trails are the rock outcroppings known as the Garden of the Gods. All of the trails run through this central spot. And the easiest, flattest trail is located there as well. The Garden of the Gods Observation Trail is an easy, flat 0.5-mile loop from the parking lot to the rock outcroppings. The other trails connect to it, so if you want to continue on to a moderate or even difficult trail that climbs up and down the hills of the recreation area, you can do that as well.

The Cache River State Natural Area in Illinois. — jbtphotos / Shutterstock

2. Cache River State Natural Area Loop Trail

Johnson County

If the Garden of the Gods makes you feel like you’re in Montana, the Cache River State Natural Area makes you feel like you’re in Louisiana. It’s a cypress swamp located deep in Southern Illinois. This swamp area provides two great things: It’s flat, unlike most every other hike in this area, and it gives you views you won’t find anywhere else.

The area’s 7-mile loop trail crosses itself several times, so it can be shortened to 2 miles, 3 miles, or whatever length of hike you’re looking for. The highlight is walking through the swamp areas. (Don’t worry — there are bridges and elevated trails across the wet portions, so you won’t be walking down into the swamp.) You’ll see all kinds of wildlife that you won’t find elsewhere in Southern Illinois.

It’s also a great place in the spring and summer for wildflower viewing. The Cache River and the surrounding areas are unique in Illinois in that they form a boggy wetland like you would see in Louisiana or Florida. As a result, there are wildflower areas you wouldn’t normally see in Southern Illinois. Have your camera ready.

3. Salt Lick Trail

Valmeyer

Perhaps you’ve heard the story of Valmeyer — it’s the town that moved. During the Flood of 1993, the largest flood the Mississippi River has ever seen, the entire town of Valmeyer was completely underwater for more than a month. Government agencies decided that the best solution for this town, which often dealt with flooding, was to move it to the top of the bluff, away from the floodwaters. You can still see the remnants of the old town down in the bottoms, but the new town sits up on the bluff, far away from future floods.

Up on this bluff, you will also find the Salt Lick Trail. This is an easy 2-mile loop trail that can be combined with the Johnson Trail to make a moderate 3.5-mile trail. The views are spectacular. This is one of the widest spots in the Mississippi River Valley, and it gives you a really good view of the entire area. You’ll find it hard to believe that the Mississippi River — way over there — when flooded, stretches all the way across the valley to the base of the bluff you’re standing on.

4. Panther Den Loop, Panther Den Wilderness

Makanda

South of Carbondale, surrounding Crab Orchard Lake and Little Grassy Lake, you’ll find more hiking trails than you can count. There are probably two dozen trails in this 20-mile area, but one of the best is the Panther Den Loop.

Located just south of Devil’s Kitchen Lake, this trail is in an area known as the Panther Den Wilderness. Don’t worry — you’re not going to run into any actual panther dens. It’s the hidden gem trail in the area — the one that the locals all know. You’ll see wildflowers, rock outcroppings, and lots of wildlife. It’s a little difficult to find (all hidden gems are), but follow the signs off of Panther Den Road and Robinson Hill Road, and you’ll find the small parking lot that will lead you to this great little trail.

Inspiration Point in Illinois. — Jason Patrick Ross / Shutterstock

5. Inspiration Point Trail

Union Precinct

If you’re looking for a very short trail that will still get you some exercise, consider Inspiration Point Trail near Wolf Lake. It’s a great little hike out to an overlook and back. And when I say “little,” I mean little. It’s only 0.35 miles from the parking area to the overlook (Inspiration Point), and then you retrace your steps for a total of 0.7 mile.

Perhaps a 3-mile loop isn’t your thing, but you still like to get out in nature and maybe even challenge yourself a bit. This would be the perfect trail for that. The elevation change is approximately 160 feet. You’ll walk slowly downhill out to the point, climbing down 160 feet (think 16 flights of stairs); take your photos from Inspiration Point overlooking the Mississippi River Valley; and then slowly make your way back with a steady climb of 160 feet. Good exercise, less than a mile, and a fantastic view.

6. Wayne Fitzgerrell State Park Trail, Wayne Fitzgerrell State Recreation Area

Whittington

This is the most recent Southern Illinois hike my wife and I have taken. On a trip from Nashville to Saint Louis, we stopped at Rend Lake just south of Mount Vernon. Once there, we headed to Wayne Fitzgerrell State Recreation Area and found the aptly named Wayne Fitzgerrell State Park Trail. We were looking for a 5-mile hike, and this hike was 5.2 miles.

For a 5-mile trail in a hilly area, this trail was surprisingly flat. There are climbs and drops as you wander around the east side of the lake, but it’s nothing like some of the other hikes we’ve discussed. This is simply a pleasant, easy, wooded hike with a great lake view.

7. Red Cedar Trail, Giant City State Park

Makanda

This is my pick for the best hike in Southern Illinois. Check out TravelAwaits’ picks for the best hikes in all 50 states here. I saved the best for last. Or perhaps I should say it this way: If you want every hiking experience listed above — a walk to a rock outcropping where you can’t believe you’re in Illinois, a stroll through a lowland glade with wildflowers, a steady climb up out of a riverbed — then your choice should be Giant City State Park.

In fact, if you’re really adventurous, then you can experience all of these things in one day. If you were to ask me to name my favorite hike in Illinois (and perhaps in the Midwest), I would have to say the Red Cedar Trail in Giant City State Park. It’s a beast — it’s 12 miles long — but I’ve done it twice as an all-day, pack-your-lunch hike, and it was awesome both times. You’ll see everything — massive rock outcroppings, water, deep forests, small waterfalls, and more.

This is not to say that the Red Cedar Trail is the only option at Giant City State Park. There are shorter trails in the park that will take you to some of the famous rock outcroppings. And you can just do parts of the Red Cedar Trail as an out-and-back hike.

But whatever you do, make your way to the lodge at the end. It’s got some of the best fried chicken I’ve ever had — perhaps because I earned it with that 12-mile hike!

What To Know Before You Go

When I hike with my wife, I’m in charge of the map. If the state park or national forest we’re in has a visitor center, I’ll stop and grab a map of all the trails in the area. If not, I can always use the AllTrails app on my phone. This app has seemingly every trail in the country. You open up the map view and simply zoom in to where you are.

And the best part is that the GPS on your smartphone will show you exactly where you are on the trail. If you hike frequently, I’m sure you’ve gotten into a situation where you’re deep in the woods, you come to a fork in the trail, and you’re not sure which way to go. With the app, I can pull out my phone, see the red line for the trail I’m on, and make sure my “dot” is following that trail.

There are both free and paid versions of the app, but the free version provides almost everything an amateur hiker would need. The paid version does allow you to download the maps and use them offline, but that’s often not necessary. It’s a great tool to have when hiking deep in forests with trails going every which way — which is something you see a lot in Southern Illinois.

This article is presented by KEEN Footwear. I basically spend the entire summer in my KEEN Newports. Because of the toe cage, and because I can get them wet, I pretty much wear them everywhere I go. On a hike, I zip the strap tight and they’re just as good as my hiking boots. If we’re on a boat, or if I’m headed to a restaurant in a polo and khaki shorts, the same pair of KEENs are always on my feet. Shop KEEN’s Newports and other hiking shoes here.

Beautiful New Mexico Road Trip: Las Cruces To Tucumcari

From the world’s largest hot air balloon festival in Albuquerque to the state capital of Santa Fe to the art community of Taos, most people who visit the Land of Enchantment spend their time 200 to 350 miles north of New Mexico’s second-largest city.

Built on the rich soil along the Rio Grande and surrounded by the craggy Organ Mountains, Las Cruces is the starting point for this New Mexico road trip that winds northeast through some of the most beautiful (and least traveled) areas of New Mexico.

Because my parents live in Las Cruces and this is part of my road trip route to visit them, I’m excited to drive it at any time of the year. But my favorite time to visit is the spring, when I can escape the bone-chilling cold of the Midwest while reveling in the beautiful views of the desert in bloom.

This road trip is also pretty during the winter months. In fact, the first time I drove through the Sierra Blanca, the mountains were blanketed in a fresh layer of unspoiled snow. Brilliant rays of sunshine streaming through the fir trees made the snow sparkle, and it felt like I was driving through a winter wonderland.

Las Cruces

The expansion of the railroad and the construction of the Interstate Highway System profoundly affected the towns that anchor this road trip. Las Cruces was selected as the location for the area’s train station in the mid 1800s, and the iron beams staked to the Chihuahuan Desert rerouted activity from the bustling town of Mesilla to the City of Crosses.

So, in recognition of its contributions to the history of the area, visit Mesilla, located just a few miles southwest of downtown Las Cruces. The historic plaza, anchored by the Basilica of San Albino, is now surrounded by local shops and restaurants. As you wander, look for informational plaques that explain Mesilla’s history posted outside many of the buildings. After shopping for silver jewelry, handmade items, and local food souvenirs, enjoy a bite to eat and a margarita at La Posta de Mesilla, a local gem that has served authentic New Mexican cuisine since World War II.

Hiking in Las Cruces, New Mexico. — Sage Scott

With its abundant sunshine and temperate year-round weather, Las Cruces is a great place to spend time outside. Hike “A” Mountain (named after the New Mexico State Aggies) for phenomenal views of Las Cruces. Visit the Dripping Springs Natural Area, where you can explore the haunting ruins of a sanatorium for patients with tuberculosis. Or enjoy a casual afternoon and a picnic at Veterans Memorial Park, Apodaca Park, or Young Park.

Once you’ve had your fill of everything green chile and have crossed your must-see experiences off your Las Cruces bucket list, jump in the car and head east. But before you go, check for road closures along U.S. Route 70 by visiting NMRoads or calling (575) 678-1178. Why? Because when a test is underway at the White Sands Missile Range, the highway is often closed to traffic for up to an hour, and nothing puts a damper on a road trip like being parked on a highway.

Pro Tip: About 30 minutes east of Las Cruces, make a quick stop at the Space Murals Museum and Gift Shop in the small town of Organ. As is true of most water towers in Las Cruces, the standard-issue metal tank is covered with bright, thematic murals. You can find a complete list of the Las Cruces water tank murals, including a map, here.

White Sands

To Southern New Mexicans, “White Sands” can mean one of two things: the missile range or the national monument. On this road trip, we’ll visit both!

About 30 minutes east of Las Cruces, on the other side of the Organ Mountains, is the White Sands Missile Range Museum. Step inside to learn more about Southern New Mexico’s contributions to the development of the atomic bomb used to end World War II and the present-day testing facility. In the missile park outside the museum, visitors can examine a variety of rockets, missiles, and aircraft.

White Sands National Monument in New Mexico. — Sage Scott

Another half hour northeast, stop at White Sands National Park to take in the cool, powdery white sand of one of the world’s biggest gypsum sand dune fields. Tour the park by car along Dunes Drive or explore on foot by walking along the Interdune Boardwalk or sinking your feet into the shifting sands of a backcountry hiking trail.

Whether you choose to explore from the comfort of your car or on foot, don’t leave the White Sands Visitor Center without plenty of water for everyone in your party. Potable water isn’t available elsewhere in the park, and the arid high desert can be stealthily dehydrating.

Alamogordo

Continuing northeast, Alamogordo is the first town after White Sands, making it the perfect place to fuel up both your car and your stomach. If you’re craving a cup of coffee and breakfast fare, head to the Waffle & Pancake Shoppe. For street tacos, enchiladas, and other delights topped with fresh New Mexico chile, enjoy lunch or dinner at Rizo’s Restaurant. Or if you want to grab sandwiches and sides for a picnic, check out the Brown Bag Deli.

If you didn’t get your fill of space history at the water tank mural pit stop and missile range museum, then visit the New Mexico Museum of Space History in Alamogordo. Inside the multistory mirrored cube, you can learn about rockets, what it’s like to live in space, and more.

For a change of pace from outer space, head to the Alameda Park Zoo. This small but well-maintained park does an outstanding job of keeping natural enclosures and educating visitors about the animals.

Before heading for the forests and mountains that await, take a free tour of Eagle Ranch. Established by a retired Air Force officer and his wife, this working pistachio farm and vineyard produces delicious nuts and award-winning wines that can’t be missed.

Lincoln National Forest

Covering more than a million acres of land, the Lincoln National Forest lies directly east of Alamogordo. The forest elevation ranges from 4,000 to 11,500 feet above sea level, and visitors can experience five different climates, from the cactus-filled Chihuahuan Desert to a fir-lined subalpine desert.

While the barrel-chested, denim-wearing cartoon version of Smokey Bear is widely recognized across the United States, few know about the real-life inspiration for the U.S. Forest Service’s blaze beacon. In 1950, a badly burned bear cub was rescued from a tree in the Lincoln National Forest’s Capitan Mountains region. After being nursed back to health, Smokey spent the remainder of his life at the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., where he was the inspiration for a fire prevention and safety program still in effect today.

Pro Tip: To explore the Lincoln National Forest by car, check out these scenic drives.

Tularosa

Throughout New Mexico, stick-figure characters and simple illustrations of native animals serve as reminders of the indigenous people who inhabited this land long before the Spanish conquistadors and European settlers arrived. Stop at Three Rivers Petroglyph Site near Tularosa to admire thousands of examples of prehistoric Jornada Mogollon art.

Ruidoso

Arcing eastward along the Sierra Blanca through Carrizozo, the next stop on this New Mexico road trip is Ruidoso, best known for its skiing and racetrack. I recommend a stop at the Noisy Water Winery. In addition to red and white, port-like, and sparkling wines, this award-winning vineyard and winery offers unique chile wines. And if you’ve spent more than a day in New Mexico, you should expect nothing less from the land of everything chile.

Tucumcari

At the start of this road trip, I mentioned how the railroad’s arrival shifted population and power from Mesilla to Las Cruces. In Tucumcari, it was concrete, rather than iron rails, that shifted the course of travelers.

Whether fleeing the devastating Dust Bowl or heading to Santa Monica for vacation, Americans traveling on Route 66 passed through the heart of Tucumcari. They dined at the Westerner Drive-Inn, walked through the concrete teepee door of a curio shop seeking souvenirs, and bedded down at the Blue Swallow Motel. But when Interstate 40 was completed several miles south of town, business along Tucumcari Boulevard blew away like a tumbleweed into the desert.

One of the many murals in Tucumcari, New Mexico. — Sage Scott

Visiting downtown Tucumcari today feels a bit like exploring a ghost town where people still live. Abandoned icons sit next to restored gems, and nearly 100 beautiful murals tying the historic Mother Road to the 21st century stitch the two eras together.

Whether examining prehistoric petroglyphs or modern-day murals, driving past arid desert landscapes or winding through evergreen-covered mountains, southeastern New Mexico is full of unique sights and experiences you won’t want to miss.

6 Perfect Ways To Spend Time In Pawhuska, OK With The Pioneer Woman

A decade ago, most Americans likely hadn’t heard of Pawhuska, and the northern Oklahoma town of 4,000 certainly wasn’t a travel destination. But in the past few years, two unrelated events have put Pawhuska on the map.

In April 2017, journalist David Grann published Killers of the Flower Moon, a suspenseful mystery that was recognized as one of the top books of that year. Detailing the cold-blooded murder and systematic poisoning of members of the Osage Nation, what makes Grann’s book so terrifying is that it is nonfiction.

Visiting the region once full of millionaire-making oil that inspired a best-selling book may not be enough to draw most people across the tallgrass prairie from larger cities like Tulsa and Oklahoma City. But the chance to catch a glimpse of legendary director Martin Scorsese, Academy Award winner Robert De Niro, or Titanic heartthrob Leonardo DiCaprio might do the trick. The trio is filming the big-screen version of Killers of the Flower Moon in Pawhuska in 2020.

And then there’s Ree Drummond.

From an Osage County cattle ranch established by her husband’s great-grandfather around the time of the terrifying Osage murders, the bubbly redhead started a food blog in 2006. It began with musings and photos of everyday life on the ranch — from shipping cattle to close-ups of caterpillars — and bloomed into a cooking blog. With detailed, step-by-step instructions and mouth-watering photos, her post “How to Cook a Steak” launched her to household-name fame. (After all, she is married to a fourth-generation cattle rancher, so she probably didn’t want to start by tossing a salad!)

Fun Fact: Decades before food writer Ree Drummond was known as the Pioneer Woman, English-born Bryant Baker cast a bronze sculpture of a homesteading woman leading her young son toward a bright future in Oklahoma. You can see the original Pioneer Woman in Ponca City, about an hour due west of Pawhuska.

Whether it’s history, Hollywood stars, or the smell of a steak sizzling in butter that draws you to Pawhuska, here are six perfect ways to enjoy the Pioneer Woman’s stomping grounds.

Pro Tip: The largest town in Oklahoma’s sprawling Osage County, Pawhuska is about 60 miles northwest of Tulsa, 150 miles northeast of Oklahoma City, and about 130 miles southeast of Wichita.

1. Shop At The Pioneer Woman Mercantile

In 2016, fans of Ree’s Food Network television show watched the restoration of the circa-1910, red brick Osage Mercantile at Kihekah and Main. Crews carefully refinished the original wood floors, polished the tin ceilings, and painstakingly preserved the original National Biscuit Co sign. When the Pioneer Woman Mercantile (also known as The Merc) opened in October of that year, it quickly attracted thousands of visitors a day to Pawhuska.

Fun Fact: When Ladd Drummond’s Scottish great-grandfather first arrived in Pawhuska, he worked at the Osage Mercantile as a clerk.

When you visit, you’ll see an ever-changing collection of seasonal items — think recipe books, kitchen decor, and cooking utensils — blended with unique, one-of-a-kind (and even quirky) items like silver “I Love Butter” bracelets and baby cowboy chaps.

Pro Tip: Before you head to The Pioneer Woman Mercantile in Pawhuska, read Ree Drummond’s first post about the building from 2012. Seeing the dilapidated “before” photos makes the post-renovation experience even more impressive.

2. Eat At The Pioneer Woman Restaurant

As you approach the Pioneer Woman Mercantile, don’t be discouraged by a long line outside the restaurant. Yes, there’s nearly always a wait for a stack of lighter-than-air pancakes and melt-in-your-mouth pot roast, but the staff at The Merc works hard to make the time pass quickly by passing out water on warm days, providing sidewalk chalk, and asking trivia questions.

Pro Tip: If your Pawhuska itinerary doesn’t allow for a three-hour lunch, follow the Grab and Go sign to a streamlined selection of Pioneer Woman favorites and take your meal on the road!

3. Sip A Cup Of Cowboy Coffee Paired With A Baked Treat

After you’ve browsed through the store and enjoyed a delicious meal at the restaurant, climb the wide staircase (or take the elevator) to the second floor. Finish your visit to the Pioneer Woman Mercantile by sipping a freshly brewed cup of coffee or munching on a sweet treat from the bakery in this spacious, sunny area.

Pro Tip: If you are visiting The Merc with a food allergy, know that the Pioneer Woman bakery has gluten-free options like pound cake!

Before you leave, take a moment to admire Ree Drummond’s photography throughout The Merc. Digital slideshows on flat screens and framed pieces on the 100-year-old brick walls showcase nearly two decades of everyday life on a working cattle ranch in northern Oklahoma.

Fun Fact: The town of Pawhuska is named after Paw-Hiu-Skah, the 18th-century leader of the Thorny Valley People. Pawhuska means “white hair” in Sioux, and the chief was given this nickname after attempting to scalp a British officer wearing a white wig.

4. P-Town Pizza And Charlie’s Sweet Shop

If you prefer wood-fired pizza to spicy Dr. Pepper pork, then cross Kihekah Avenue and walk about a block to P-Town Pizza. Added to the Pioneer Woman portfolio in 2018, this stop is a great place to pair a pizza pie with a signature cocktail. Top off your meal with a layered dessert jar.

Or, if ice cream is more your style, mosey over to Charlie’s Sweet Shop. Named after the Drummonds’ beloved basset hound, who passed away in 2017, and housed in the same building as the Pioneer Woman’s pizzeria, Charlie’s serves scoops and sundaes guaranteed to satisfy every sweet tooth.

Pro Tip: All of the Pioneer Woman’s ventures are closed on Sundays, so plan accordingly when you visit Pawhuska!

5. Visit The Lodge On Drummond Ranch

For a behind-the-scenes glimpse at Food Network’s The Pioneer Woman, visit The Lodge. Located at the Drummond Ranch, the family’s guest house doubles as the set where Ree films her show.

Visit The Merc in downtown Pawhuska to request lodge tour tickets. Available dates are published on The Pioneer Woman Mercantile website.

Pro Tip: If you’re visiting Pawhuska with a four-legged friend, be sure to find a safe place for them to stay before heading to The Lodge as pets are not allowed on the ranch.

6. Bunk Down At The Boarding House

If you plan to spend the night in Pawhuska, check out The Pioneer Woman Boarding House. This eight-room hotel, wrapped in cowboy luxury, is located in downtown Pawhuska just north of The Mercantile.

Originally The Indian Silk Shop, this century-old red brick building was also a J. C. Penney department store. Today, each generously sized room (they average 670 square feet) is thematically decorated, providing guests with a unique lodging experience. Soak in the clawfoot bathtub lit by a crystal chandelier in the Boudoir Room or enjoy the views of downtown Pawhuska from the Prairie Room. And if you need a room that is ADA accessible, book your stay in the Photograph Room, which is accented with Ree’s beautiful photos.

Other Things To Do In And Around Pawhuska

To fully embrace Pawhuska from a variety of perspectives — from the Native American to the homesteading pioneer woman or even the present-day celebrity — here are some additional things to do during your visit.

Visit the Osage Nation Museum. Housed in a brick chapel built in 1872, this small but very well-done museum presents the history, culture, and art of the Osage Nation. It is the oldest tribally owned museum in the United States.

The Osage County Historical Society Museum provides insight into pioneer life, the early days of the oil industry, the chilling Osage murders, and the area’s connection to the Boy Scouts of America.

Born on the Osage Indian Reservation, Ben Johnson was an Academy Award-winning actor, legendary stunt double, and world-champion rodeo cowboy from Oklahoma. Learn more about his life (and experience first-hand just how hard it is to rope a steer) at The Ben Johnson Cowboy Museum.

If you love puffy fry bread layered with taco toppings, then plan your trip to Pawhuska around the National Indian Taco Championship.

While millions of acres of tallgrass prairie once covered the central region of North America, less than 4 percent of this unique ecosystem remains. Visit the Joseph H. Williams Tallgrass Prairie Preserve, about 20 minutes north of downtown Pawhuska, to take in the beauty of the largest protected remnant of tallgrass prairie left on earth. Watch for free-roaming bison, white-tailed deer, coyotes, and bobcats along with a variety of plants, birds, and insects.

7 Best Stops On Illinois’ Scenic Great River Road

The Mississippi River makes up the entire western border of Illinois. If you want to cross over into Iowa or Missouri, you have to cross a bridge over the Mighty Mississippi. Along the entire river, you will find the Great River Road, a series of roads along the Mississippi that run from the far northwestern corner of the state (near the Iowa and Wisconsin borders) to the far southern tip of the state (near the Missouri and Kentucky borders).

This is all part of a National Scenic Byway that encompasses the Great River Road along the entire length of the Mississippi River from northern Minnesota to southern Louisiana. For this trip, we’re going to concentrate on the Illinois portion. And while the Great River Road does extend all the way to Galena to the north of the state and Cairo to the south, we’re going to focus on the middle portion. Our road trip will take us from the Quad Cities to St. Louis.

We’ll cross the river several times. In fact, both of the metropolitan areas we’ll visit at the beginning and the end of our trip will span both sides of the river. In the Quad Cities, two of the four cities are in Illinois and the other two are in Iowa. And in St. Louis, 700,000 of the 2.9 million residents in the metropolitan area reside in Illinois.

Let’s start our trip from the north, in the Quad Cities.

Aerial view of Davenport, Iowa. — Eduardo Medrano / Shutterstock

1. Quad Cities

The region is called the Quad Cities because of the four main cities that make up the metropolitan area:

Bettendorf, Iowa
Davenport, Iowa
Rock Island, Illinois
Moline, Illinois

All in all, this area has a combined population of around 380,000 people, so you’ll find plenty to do. There are many great hotels in this area, so the Quad Cities can easily be a multi-day stop on your trip.

Davenport, Iowa, is the largest of the Quad Cities, so it makes a great starting point. Our plan is to cross the Centennial Bridge over the Mississippi River from Davenport to Rock Island in order to begin our trip, so Davenport is probably the best place to find lodging, too.

As far as things to do in the area, I couldn’t do better than fellow TravelAwaits writer Tim Trudell’s nine unique things to do in the Quad Cities, from Mississippi River cruises to visiting the original American Pickers antique store. Take your time going through that list, and then let’s get started on our trip.

Great River Bridge crossing Mississippi River in Burlington, Iowa — Great River Bridge (Photo Credit: Erin Cogswell / Shutterstock.com)

2. Burlington, Iowa

Our first stop will actually take us off of the Great River Road and back across the Mississippi. We’ll be driving down the Illinois side of the river the entire time, but once you get to Gladstone, Illinois, take Highway 34 to the west, cross the Great River Bridge, and discover the river town of Burlington, Iowa.

Burlington is best known for Snake Alley, a winding street that zig-zags down from the top of the river bluff down close to the river. It’s very similar to Lombard Street in San Francisco in that you enter from the top and take the long, winding route down to the bottom. Once per year there’s also a bicycle race here, and the competitors (somehow) climb Snake Alley as part of the route.

But there’s much more to do in Burlington than just drive this famous street. There’s a vibrant downtown, great restaurants, a casino, and much more. There’s also a great park — Mosquito Park — with incredible views of the river.

The rebuilt LDS temple in Nauvoo, Illinois. — Krysta Hastings / Shutterstock

3. Nauvoo, Illinois

From Burlington, go back across the river and follow the signs for the Great River Road again. You’re going to travel about a half hour to Nauvoo. And if you don’t know the history of Nauvoo, get ready to be surprised.

At one end of the downtown area sits a massive (and I mean massive) church building. It is the rebuilt LDS temple, which reflects the history of the area. Before Brigham Young led the Mormons on a trek to Utah, the church was headquartered in Nauvoo. In fact, in 1844, Nauvoo was one of the largest cities in Illinois. After the death of church founder Joseph Smith, Young led the Mormons to Utah, and the town of Nauvoo would never be the same size again. In fact, today, its population is one-sixth what it was at that time.

But the history remains. Houses from that era have been restored and are available for tours. The reconstructed church is available for tours as well. And there’s a small downtown area surrounding all of the historical buildings.

Believe me, Nauvoo will surprise you. You’ve been driving through numerous small river towns, you enter another small river town, and here sits a massive church building overlooking the river valley below. It’s quite amazing.

The town of Quincy, lllinois. — Clay Venvertloh / Shutterstock

4. Quincy, Illinois

Next you’ll follow the Great River Road to the south for about an hour until you get to Quincy, Illinois. This is one of the larger towns we’ll visit with a population north of 40,000. But it still has a small-town feel that you’ll find in most river towns in this area.

The best recommendations I can give here have been compiled by the local convention and visitors bureau (CVB). Many people road trip through the area, so the local CVB has developed several driving tours for you to utilize during your visit. They’ve included everything from art drives (so you can see all the local murals) to eagle drives (with recommendations on the best places to see the area’s bald eagles). Check out this webpage to see all of the driving tours.

5. Louisiana, Missouri

We’re going to cross the river again, this time to go into Missouri. As you’re travelling south from Quincy on the Great River Road (which is Highway 96 in this location), turn west on Highway 54 and take it approximately six miles until you cross the river. Once you cross the river, you’ll come to a stop sign. Turn left, and this will take you right to downtown Louisiana.

Georgia Street is the main drag in Louisiana. And it’s quite long for a town of only 3,200. Louisiana is similar to many other river towns we’ve been through, with antique stores, ice cream shops, and knick-knack stores dotting either side of the street. Take some time and explore some of the side streets as well — Louisiana is known for its great old Victorian homes.

You can also visit the oldest fruit tree nursery in the United States — Stark Bros. Their property is quite unique. It’s a place you simply have to see to appreciate.

Pere Marquette State Park during fall in Grafton, IL — Pere Marquette State Park (Photo Credit: Michael12345 / Shutterstock.com)

6. Grafton, Illinois

Grafton is the smallest town we’re visiting on our road trip. But it has just as many things to do for a road-tripper as many of the larger cities. Because this link of the Great River Road (which goes from Grafton south to Alton, Illinois) is the most well-known, Grafton attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year.

My favorite spot in Grafton, Pere Marquette State Park, is just to the north of town. Make sure to check out the lodge. It was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression and features everything you’d expect in a lodge from that era — massive timbers, a giant stone fireplace, and incredible views. If it’s not being used, make sure to play chess in the lobby with the life-size chess pieces. There are also trails at Pere Marquette with some of the best views in the entire region, but be aware that many of the climbs on these hikes are very steep. You’re basically climbing the bluffs above the river. There is an option to drive to the top and walk to some of the overlooks.

Back in town, enjoy all of the shops along the main drag in Grafton. This is a day-trip destination for many St. Louisians, so expect lots of people and crowded restaurants. Make sure to stop at Grafton Fudge And Ice Cream for a sweet treat.

Downtown St. Louis, Missouri. — f11photo / Shutterstock

7. St. Louis, Missouri

This is our final destination. We’ll get to some things to do in a moment, but this first part is the most important. To me, the most scenic part of the entire Great River Road — and I’ve driven all of it from Galena to Cairo — is the section of the Great River Road just south of Grafton between Grafton and Alton. In fact, if you do an image search for “Great River Road Illinois,” nearly every photo will be of this section. You’ll be driving right next to the river — so close that this portion of the road is often closed when the river is high — with massive white cliffs hovering above. Trust me, of the driving portion, this will be the highlight of the trip. Have your camera ready.

Once you pass through Alton, you can take the Clark Bridge across the river into the St. Louis area. St. Louis is where I spent most of my life, so I could give you paragraph after paragraph of things to do in the area. But I don’t think I could do any better than some of the articles we’ve already published on the topic.

Consider these 12 things you have to do when you’re in St. Louis, visit these 11 excellent hidden gems, and, if you’re hungry for ribs, take my advice on how to do a delicious St. Louis rib crawl. It’s the perfect end to a great drive.