The Best Things To See And Do In Salt Lake City

Salt Lake City has a model town feel and many free attractions courtesy of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS) previously called Mormons, who represent nearly half of the city’s population.

In 1847, Brigham Young led his people on a thousand-mile westward trek to escape persecution, but as soon as he saw the salt plains and mountain ranges, he recognized them as the promised land and halted the wagons. While your reasons for visiting may not be religious, you must experience Salt Lake City; it is a destination that both promises and delivers.

The Temple in Salt Lake City. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

1. Visit Salt Lake City’s Epicenter

Temple Square attracts around 5 million visitors a year. Ramrod-straight, white buildings housing LDS church offices tower to the heavens. Men in telltale white shirts stride through the area on church-related business. The six-spired white temple (built in 1893) is a neo-gothic masterpiece and the symbolic heart of the worldwide LDS church. The landscaped gardens provide color in an otherwise white-on-white world.

Take a free 45-minute tour of Temple Square. Guides are modestly dressed, young female missionaries from all over the world. Tours are available in 40 languages. Guides are open and charming and will attempt to answer your questions about the LDS faith. The visitors center has an interactive guide to the temple’s interior, where the Salt Lake Tabernacle, which Frank Lloyd Wright described as “one of the architectural masterpieces of the country and perhaps the world,” is situated.

Temple Square remains open despite being mid-renovation. The church will host a public open house in 2024 before rededicating the temple, which could provide the chance of a lifetime to see its inside.

Mormon Tabernacle building at Temple Square, Salt Lake City, Utah, home of the Tabernacle Choir — Karin Hildebrand Lau / Shutterstock.com

2. Listen To Angelic Singing

The world-famous Tabernacle Choir performed at the 2002 Winter Olympics and presidential inaugurations from Reagan’s through to Trump’s. Attend free Thursday night rehearsals from 7:30 to 9:30 p.m. Check dates as the 360-member choir is sometimes on tour. Major choir events include the Messiah and Christmas concerts.

There are free events, but they’re so popular that a computer randomly selects ticket recipients from hundreds of thousands of requests. For possible standby seating, line up at Temple Square’s Tabernacle flagpole 90 minutes beforehand.

The Joseph Smith Memorial Building, formerly the Utah Hotel. — TempleSquare.com

3. Tour A Glorious Old Hotel

The lavish Utah Hotel (1911) hosted every U.S. president from William Howard Taft to Ronald Reagan before being renovated to beyond its former glory in the 1980s and rechristened the Joseph Smith Memorial Building in 1993 in honor of the Mormon Church’s founder. Tourists are sometimes so overawed by the lobby, with its commanding staircase, marble columns, and huge crystal chandeliers, that they don’t realize they can enter. But attendants happily explain the history and direct you to the 10th floor for stunning temple views. Or dine with these views at The Roof or The Garden restaurants. The casual Nauvoo Cafe is on the ground floor. Enjoy mocktails, as you won’t find tea, coffee, or alcohol in LDS restaurants. All three restaurants are closed on Sundays.

The Family History Library in Salt Lake City. — VisitSaltLake.com

4. Find Your Roots

The LDS’s Family History Library holds the world’s largest genealogical collection. The first floor discovery center provides interactive activities for the whole family.

Or head to the floor relating to your ancestors, whether they were from the U.S., Canada, the British Isles, Europe, Latin America, Asia, Africa, or Australia.

No appointment necessary. After visiting reception you are paired with an assistant. Have your main search question ready. Within 30 minutes, my trained helper located a Scottish forebear I’d never found myself. They have millions of records from at their disposal, including DOS records.

On a second visit, my new helper was unflagging in her resolution to reconnect me with family members I’d not seen since I was a child, even though I could not remember their surname. She kept searching long after I was ready to give up.

These marvellous LDS helpers rarely hear how their work reunites families, but what I discovered in that single session ended with my meeting relatives on the other side of the world who I’d not seen for 50 years!

The help is free and I was never asked whether I would like to join the Mormon faith.

The Family History building is across from Temple Square, but there are LDS research centers worldwide.

The Beehive House in Salt Lake City. — Sopotnicki / Shutterstock

5. Visit Historic Homes

Beehive House (1854) was Brigham Young’s early home and was crowned with a replica beehive, symbolizing industry. This was Young’s official residence as President of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, and as the first governor of the Utah Territory.

It was also home to some of his family and where he entertained important visitors such as Mark Twain, Susan B. Anthony, and Elizabeth Cady Stanton.

Brigham Young had 55 wives and 59 children. Not all the marriages were conjugal, and not all his wives lived with him. Yet on a tour of Beehive House this history is glossed over. What was the division of labour like with so many wives? Were there tensions?

The church banned polygamy in 1890, but it’s historically interesting. On my guided tour the practice seemed swept under the 19th-century carpets. Free 30-minute tours are offered Monday through Saturday 9 a.m to 9 p.m. starting every 10 minutes.

Next door, Lion’s House (1856) is where many of Young’s wives lived and his family gathered for meals. In LDS communities, there’s an emphasis on hearty fare. Enjoy such a meal at Lion’s House Pantry, a cafeteria where LDS workers gather. Walking in, I saw a party of white-shirted men silhouetted in an alcove against the window, like a scene from The Last Supper. Nourishing foods such as beef and barley soup, baked salmon, meatloaf, chicken pot pie, mashed potatoes, and steamed vegetables are served. The restaurant, which is moderately priced, is famous for its freshly baked dinner rolls and honey butter. It is not open on Sundays.

Inside the Utah State Capitol. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

6. Pack Your Pink Suit

Forget Rocky running up the steps at the Philadelphia Museum of Art: Utah’s State Capitol saw Elle Woods tottering up stairs in Legally Blonde 2 in her hot-pink suit amidst a sea of dark-suited lawyers. Utah’s State Capitol, built in 1916, is a neoclassical masterpiece that underwent one of the U.S’s largest preservation projects between 2004 and 2008. Its towering ceilings and arched windows are reminiscent of the Musee d’Orsay. There are murals, marble floors, domes, frescoes, and grand staircases. Look for beehive symbols throughout and step outside the second-floor rotunda for magnificent views over Salt Lake City.

There’s free entry and parking, or take bus 500 from Temple Square. This route is also walkable, but the museum is over half a mile from Temple Square up a steep hill. It’s open daily, and self-guided and hourly led tours are available.

7. Shopping In Salt Lake City, Utah

City Creek Center

An upmarket mall across the road from Temple Square, and also owned by the LDS, features Louis Vuitton, Nordstrom, and Tiffany stores. The mall’s neoclassical curved arches are reminiscent of the State Capitol, and it has a retractable roof for fine days. A creek runs through the middle, and there are fountains, waterfalls, and kids’ splash pads. It’s a peaceful spot for coffee. Yes, there’s coffee. The best I found was Harmons upstairs.

There’s two-hour free parking (the third hour is free with certain store validations, and this can be useful for visiting Temple Square).

Gardner Village

Built around a historic mill with brick paths, a duck pond, and a covered bridge, Gardner Village’s 22 boutique shops are all about the latest trends in furniture, clothing, and jewelry, and Utah’s famous salt-water taffy (get it at the Chocolate Covered Wagon). Gardner Village is famous for its Halloween-themed WitchFest and is located 12 miles south of downtown Salt Lake City in Salt Lake Valley.

Markets

The Saturday Farmers Market in Pioneer Park sells fresh seasonal food. I’d heard Utah’s sweet corn was good, but these were the sweetest cobs imaginable. The local peaches and berries are legendary. Enjoy the Beehive State’s honey. Stalls are in a square around the park’s perimeter. The market is also great for crafts, baked goods, and food vendors. Open spring and summer.

Kid to Kid

Kid to Kid is now an international chain that sells upscale and trendy preloved kids’ clothing, but it all began in this family-orientated city. Expect lots of scarcely worn garments and great toys, many that are new. This is a great place to outfit grandchildren.

Funeral potatoes from Garage On Beck. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

8. Eating In Salt Lake City

Salt Lake City attracts tourists, tech industry professionals, students and academics, and mining engineers with Bingham Canyon Mine, another main attraction. With all these worldly visitors and locals, you can enjoy a hipster-ish food scene during your Salt Lake City exploration. Here are the best restaurants to try.

Eva’s Bakery

Eva’s Bakery transports diners to Paris. Indulge in French cheese plates served with breadbaskets, croissants and soft scrambled eggs with Gruyere, boulangere potatoes, and French toast stuffed with lemon cream cheese. Eva’s is popular for Sunday brunches.

Red Iguana

Red Iguana boasts “killer Mexican food,” and their menu is not Americanized Mexican, but the real amigo. Famous for its mole dishes, the restaurant usually has a hungry line waiting outside. Arriving at 5:30 p.m., we waited, but only 10 minutes. Worried about increasing queues, the owners opened Red Iguana 2 two blocks away. There’s a queue there now! Then they opened Taste of Red Iguana in City Creek Center’s food court, but the experience doesn’t seem as authentic in the ultra-modern space.

Garage On Beck

Here you can enjoy funeral potatoes, a comfort dish of hash-browns, cream of chicken soup, cream cheese, and a coating of cornflakes traditionally served at funerals, in an old auto repair shop converted into a roadside bar — so not an LDS setting. More a scene from Mad Max with corrugated iron and back fence views over smokestacks. But this is a highway dive bar with taste. Their funeral potatoes are shaped into balls and baptized in hot oil. Try the bread pudding made with cream and bourbon and topped with whiskey caramel. Over 21s only.

Coffee

To reassure me Salt Lake City has great coffee, my kids took me to Publik straight from the airport. These three small-batch coffee roasters are where Salt Lake City’s digital nomads hang out all day getting caffeinated. For more than a muffin with your coffee, head to Campos. The decor is industrial chic with indoor plants. The enterprise began in Sydney, and Australians know how to brunch. Try the persimmon and ricotta toast with lemon and rosemary or the smashed avocado on toast with pistachio and pickled citrus.

Drinking

Alcohol is available in bars (with food) and in restaurants, including brewpubs. Liquor is available for purchase almost exclusively from state-run liquor stores (which are not open Sundays). Utah’s drinking laws take some navigating, but Salt Lake City is still worth the stop!

Want to see more of the state? Read up on

9 Tips For Riding Cable Cars In San Francisco

No visit to San Francisco would be complete without a ride on the iconic cable cars. Ride up and down the steep hills of the city, hang on tight as you swing around corners, and take in awesome views of the bay. Feel the wind in your face and listen to the clanging of the bell. Hopping on a cable car is more than a way to get from point A to point B; it’s a fun, multisensory experience.

A National Historic Landmark since 1962, the San Francisco cable cars are both the first of their kind in the world and the last hand-operated cars still running. Andrew Hallidie designed the cable car lines in 1869 after he witnessed an accident involving horses that had been drawing carts on the rain-slicked hills. Hallidie’s invention proved to be a great one for public transportation, and his cars are still running nearly 150 years later.

More than 13 million people ride the cable cars each year, crowding in and hanging on. You’ll want to be strategic about your riding so that you’re not crushed inside, missing the views. Here are some tips to help you make the most of your time on the famous cable cars.

A cable car in San Francisco. — Sharon Odegaard

1. Before You Board, Look At The Three Lines On A Map

The cable cars are an iconic feature of the city, but they only run in certain areas. At their high point, the tracks covered 75 miles. Today, the cable cars cover only about 5 miles of San Francisco. For that reason, I recommend that visitors take a quick look at a map of the route before boarding.

It’s fairly simple to plot out your ride, because each car runs back and forth on one of three routes. You can ride the Powell/Mason and Powell/Hyde lines between the Union Square area and Fisherman’s Wharf. The third line, the California line, runs the other direction (east to west), perpendicular to the Powell lines. It journeys through a financial district and ends up at the other end of the long wharf.

Depending on how long you are visiting and the sights you want to see, you could ride one, two, or all three of the lines. Knowing where the cars go will help you plan.

2. If You Plan To Ride Often, Purchase A Pass

You can pay for one ride at a time with cash or with the MuniMobile app, but individual rides can add up quickly.

If you plan to ride often, a transit pass will save you money. The most popular are the passes for one, three, and seven days and the San Francisco CityPASS, which includes three days of transit and four attractions. These passes cover all cable car rides as well as rides on the city buses and historic streetcars that run along the wharf. You’ll save even more money if you use these on the MuniMobile app rather than having a paper pass.

Pro Tip: You can buy these passes at the Union Square cable car turnaround ticket booth.

The writer boarding a cable car in San Francisco. — Sharon Odegaard

3. Be Strategic About Where You Board

You can board at the turntables at the ends of the Powell lines, or you can wait at any stop along the routes (each stop is marked with a sign). If a car isn’t full, it will stop, and you can hop on. I’ve found that the cars are so often full that it’s easier to head for a turnaround point at Union Square or Fisherman’s Wharf. The line may look intimidating, but the cars run regularly, and you likely won’t have to wait too long.

Pro Tip: The California line tends to be the least busy and is a perfect choice if you want to ride just for fun. The cars on this line are a bit roomier, too. You can catch a ride at any point along this line and end up at the Ferry Building, a great place for a coffee or lunch.

4. Claim Your Place For The Best Ride

You don’t have to sit or stand where you don’t want to. The gripman and brakeman operating the car often tell people to move inside, just to get them boarded and ready for departure. You may feel intimidated by this. But if you want to ride on the outside, either sitting or standing up hanging onto a pole, you have options. I prefer standing on the running board with my arms circling a pole, even in the rain, so I’ve learned some ways to get around the “move inside” instructions.

You can let others in line go ahead of you and wait for the next car. You’ll then be toward the front of the line and can head directly for the space you want to occupy.

If the car is almost full and the only seats are inside, you can get on and move inside. Then as people get off along the way, you can move outside.

At a turnaround, where the car is empty to start with, run around to the side away from the line when you get through the gate. People tend to board on the side by the line for convenience. The car is completely stopped at the turnarounds, so you can go around the back or front without putting yourself in danger. When I say “run,” I’m not kidding. People rush to get a spot on the cable cars!

Pro Tip: On the two Powell lines, the best views of the city and bay are on the right side on the way down to Fisherman’s Wharf and on the left side going up to Union Square.

5. Keep Your Hands And Arms Inside, And Hang On Tight

If you are standing on the running board and hanging onto a pole, be sure to keep leaning into the car rather than out into the street. Your car will encounter cars going the opposite direction, close enough that you could high-five the riders going by. Be careful to stay in your own space.

Even if you are riding inside, you will feel the sharp turns and sudden stops. If you’re standing inside, hang onto the straps hanging from the ceiling to avoid crashing into your fellow passengers.

Pro Tip: If you have a backpack, wear it in front or give it to someone sitting down to hold for you.

6. Speak Up To Get Off

The cars may or may not stop at a particular street. If you want to get off, tell the gripman about a block before the stop. He is right in the middle of the car, so this is easy to do. Wait for the car to make a complete stop before stepping out. Also, watch for traffic as you exit. Sometimes the cars stop in the middle of the street rather than at a curb.

The Cable Car Museum in San Francisco. — Sharon Odegaard

7. Understand How The Cable Cars Work

The cable running under the street never stops. It moves constantly at 9 miles per hour. The gripman uses a pincher contraption in the middle of the car to hook onto the underground cable. Then the cable pulls the car, and off you go!

Letting go of the cable allows the car to glide to a stop, but there are also three brakes to halt the cars, a great safety feature. The brakeman works along with the gripman to drive. Cars share the streets with the cable cars, and pedestrians tend to dart out from all directions, so good brakes are crucial.

8. Hop Off At The Cable Car Museum To See The Cables In Action

The San Francisco Cable Car Museum houses the huge cables that run the three lines. The cables run nonstop over 8-foot pulleys turned by gears. The power is now electric, though originally it was driven by a steam engine. The cables disappear underneath the ground as they head out to the streets. The noise in the room is deafening.

Pro Tip: Board either of the Powell lines, which both go right by the Cable Car Museum. Tell the gripman you want to get off, and then spend a half-hour or so enjoying the antique cars and displays as well as watching the cables turn.

9. Interact With The Gripman And Brakeman

The gripman and brakeman can make the ride really fun. I’ve encountered grumpy ones, but in general they add joy to the experience.

One brakeman sang us all a rhymed travelogue of the city. One gripman had us chanting the names of the kids on the car as he rang the bell: “Nico, Nico, Nico” (ring-ring, ring-ring, ring-ring). Another brakeman let me stand in the back to take photos. Then he called my husband back and told him to hang on to me. “Okay, we’re coming to a sharp turn and then a steep hill. Ready? Let go and hang over the edge and take pictures!” This was certainly not prudent, but you only live once, right? And another had us all jumping up and down as we rounded a corner. I’m not sure that was safe, but our car was filled with laughter.

Pro Tip: Many of your fellow riders are also in the city on vacation — in short, you’re all there to have fun! So, don’t be afraid to interact with and banter with others. One woman offered to catch my grandson if he started to fall from the running board, and we immediately became friends. Smile and chat, and your ride will be even more memorable.

Cable car rides are a highlight of any trip to San Francisco, and a little planning will enhance your experience. You’ll be an expert rider in no time!

The Best Things To See And Do In Burlington, Vermont

Burlington may be Vermont’s most populous city, but it still manages to feel like a small town where everyone seems to know one another. Its location on Lake Champlain surely helps, as it encourages everyone to enjoy the great outdoors. Cycling, jogging, and paddling are all popular activities here. But if you prefer urban pleasures over outdoor adventures, Burlington also offers great shopping, art, museums, and — my favorite — food! It’s the perfect place to spend a long weekend relaxing and exploring.

Here are some of the best things to do during a visit to the area.

Lake Champlain in Burlington, Vermont. — redcloverstudio / Shutterstock

Take A Lake Champlain Cruise

Lake Champlain has the distinction of being the largest lake in New England, and it’s certainly one of the most scenic as well. An hour-long sightseeing cruise in a replica of a 19th-century steamboat is a perfect way to drink in the views. Lunchtime cruises include a buffet lunch for about $30, and on Thursday evenings, there are murder mystery dinner cruises for about $55.

However, the real draw isn’t the food but the chance to spot Champy, Lake Champlain’s very own aquatic monster. Champy was first spotted by Samuel de Champlain himself in 1609, though the monster has been quite elusive ever since.

You can learn more about Champy and his many aquatic friends at the ECHO Leahy Center for Lake Champlain. This is an especially nice destination for anyone traveling with kids, since it’s a very hands-on place to visit. There are fun demonstrations covering all aspects of the environment. Adult admission costs $14.50, and admission for children costs $11.50.

Tour The Magic Hat Brewery

No trip to Vermont would be complete without a brewery tour. Magic Hat Brewing Company offers fun, lighthearted tours seven days a week for only $3 per person, and each visit includes plenty of samples to round out the experience. Magic Hat isn’t just a brewery — it’s also an event space. In the evenings, there are themed trivia nights (like Harry Potter nights and football nights) and painting classes.

Wine from Shelburne Vineyard in Burlington. — Shelburne Vineyard

Visit Shelburne Vineyard

Just a few miles south of Burlington, the award-winning Shelburne Vineyard offers $9 tastings of eight different types of sustainably focused wine. For $18, you can try four wines paired with four local cheeses. When the weather is nice, you can enjoy your wine indoors or outdoors. From May through October, tours are offered on the hour between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m.

Sample Lake Champlain Chocolates

Quite possibly the most delicious tour experience Vermont has to offer, Lake Champlain Chocolates offers a 30-minute tour that covers the process of cocoa production and how cocoa is transformed into chocolate. The tour includes a peek at the in-house factory production as well as plenty of tasty treats. I’m personally a big fan of the company’s hot chocolate and sipping chocolates, which are often described as some of the best in the United States.

Tours take place from Monday through Friday at 11 a.m., 12 p.m., 1 p.m., and 2 p.m. During peak summer hours, you should pop in in the morning to sign up in advance for an afternoon tour slot. However, you’ll also want to make plans to stop by on the weekend: On Saturdays and Sundays, the company offers guided chocolate tastings from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Both the tours and tastings are free. Lake Champlain also offers vegan-friendly and keto-friendly chocolate options.

The Burlington Bike Path in Vermont. — Louisen / Shutterstock

Get Some Exercise On The Burlington Bike Path

Popular with bikers, joggers, and walkers, this 7.5-mile trail along the shores of Lake Champlain offers beautiful views and several waterfront parks. If you don’t have your own bike with you, you can rent one at Local Motion ($25 for 4 hours or $55 for a daylong e-bike rental).

Planning to explore farther afield? Local Motion operates a bike ferry to take adventurers and their gear to more remote areas along Lake Champlain.

Stop By The Fleming Museum Of Art

Located at the University of Vermont, one of the oldest universities in the United States, this eclectic museum contains art and anthropological objects ranging from works by Rodin and Goya to works by Homer and Warhol. Admission costs $5 and includes access to events, lectures, and presentations.

Ben & Jerry's in Burlington, Vermont. — enchanted_fairy / Shutterstock

Eating In Burlington

If you had to sum up Burlington’s food scene in one word, it would be “local.” The city was one of the first in the country to make farm-to-table cuisine trendy, and support for local farmers, producers, brewers, chefs, and gardens is high. The city is also home to Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream, and no visit to Vermont would be complete without a scoop. Beyond ice cream, you can find everything from casual pubs to upscale Parisian cuisine.

Here are some of my favorite places to eat in the area.

Vermont Pub & Brewery

The Vermont Pub & Brewery has the distinction of being the oldest craft brewery in the state. It opened in 1988 and became the first brewery to operate in Vermont in 94 years.

Today, it offers an excellent menu of pub classics at very reasonable prices (burger platters start at just $10!). Look closely at the sandwich platters, fish and chips, and nacho plates, and you’ll see that the establishment uses a host of local ingredients, including Vermont cheese and maple syrup. There’s a good selection of vegetarian options, too.

American Flatbread

The perfect twist on pizza and beer, American Flatbread serves — you guessed it — creative flatbread made with fresh, local ingredients. Every week, there’s a different list of specials, including meat- and veggie-focused flatbreads, inventive salads, and even breakfast specials. Expect the restaurant to be crowded on weekends during peak times.

Leunig’s Bistro & Cafe

One of the oldest restaurants in Burlington, Leunig’s Bistro & Cafe serves upscale French cuisine prepared from local ingredients. But fine food doesn’t have to come at a fancy price. Leunig’s offers a great-value table d’hote for early birds (dinner before 5:30 p.m.) and night owls (last hour of the day). For $21, you can choose from appetizers like white bean soup with Asiago and pesto followed by entrees of maple walnut-crusted salmon or steak frites. You can add a glass of wine starting at just $5. It’s a lovely spot for a romantic meal.

A Single Pebble

Szechuan cooking fused with local Vermont ingredients? It’s no wonder A Single Pebble is so popular. Steamed fish with ginger, black bean, and spinach; red oil chicken; and pork potsticker dumplings are some of the popular dishes here. The family-style chef’s tasting menu is a fun way to indulge if you’re traveling with friends and family.

Radio Bean

At this funky coffee shop-meets-bar, you can try the pupusas, or masa corn cakes filled with black beans, pickled jalapenos, and mozzarella and topped with cilantro-lime crema, pico de gallo, and curtido slaw; the lettuce-wrapped bulgogi with local skirt steak, shiitake mushrooms, housemade kimchi, shallots, sesame garlic sauce, and coconut rice are also delicious. Weekend brunch plates range from simple avocado toast to eggs Benedict to shakshouka with feta. It’s so much more than just a coffee shop!

Crow Bookshop in Burlington, Vermont. — Crow Bookshop

Shopping In Burlington

Church Street Marketplace

This four-block open pedestrian mall is the place to go for shopping, art, and artisan food products in Burlington.

Crow Bookshop, Burlington’s independent bookstore since 1995, offers new and used books and has an especially wonderful children’s department.

Another cool spot is Burlington Records. This funky shop offers new and used vinyl, stereo equipment including gorgeous custom-painted turntables, and rare original concert posters that make cool souvenirs.

Meanwhile, The Cosmic Grind claims the title of the best coffee shop on Church Street.

You can easily pass several hours wandering in and out of all the shops and eateries here.

Where To Stay In Burlington

Burlington has a good selection of chain hotels and, in summer, the empty dorm rooms at the city’s universities offer inexpensive accommodations. But Burlington’s gorgeous inns and bed and breakfasts are the highlights of the city’s accommodations scene. Ranging from homey and cozy to stately and elegant, there are a variety of properties to choose from.

Lang House On Main Street

With dark wood and luxurious finishes, Lang House on Main Street is the nicest bed and breakfast in Burlington, and it gets high marks for its homemade hot breakfast.

Willard Street Inn

Refined and elegant, there are 16 guest rooms in this romantic inn. The property dates to 1881 but is fitted with modern touches. Champlain’s Lookout is a particularly nice room with views of the garden and Lake Champlain.

The Essex

Known as a culinary resort, The Essex has amenities far beyond those typically offered, including a luxurious spa, beautiful pool, and in-house culinary program.

Inn At Charlotte Bed And Breakfast

About 10 miles away from Burlington, this snug bed and breakfast is down to earth with a homey feeling, nice outdoor common areas, and pretty gardens.

Looking for more to do in Vermont? Head to Woodstock or Stowe.

How To Visit Monet’s Gardens In Giverny

It’s hard to believe there was a time when Impressionism wasn’t only dismissed by the art world — it was downright mocked. What a difference a century makes! Today, Impressionism is arguably the best-known artistic era, and millions of people flock to Paris each year to see masterpieces by Renoir, Manet, Morisot, and — most famous of all — Monet.

Paris was Claude Monet’s playground, but it was the nearby village of Giverny that became his beloved home. What started as a simple house and garden in 1883 was slowly built up, often by Monet himself, into one of the most spectacular gardens in France by the time of his death in 1926.

Claude Monet's house and gardens in Giverny. — andre quinou / Shutterstock

Today, the Claude Monet Foundation preserves the house and garden. Visitors to the site can enjoy two garden attractions in addition to the Monet home: the flower garden, called the Clos Normand, which surrounds the house, and the Japanese-inspired water garden that’s located on the other side of the road.

Visitors can enjoy elegant and untamed fruit trees, ornamental trees, climbing roses, hollyhocks, nasturtiums, daisies, poppies, water lilies, weeping willows, and dozens of other varieties of plants and flowers, all arranged according to Monet’s artistic sensibilities.

Quite simply, it’s one of the most beautiful places in all of France, and it makes for an amazing day trip from Paris. Here’s what you need to know before you go.

Where Is Giverny?

Giverny is 50 miles northwest of Paris in the region of Normandy.

While Giverny is an ideal day trip from Paris, it’s also close to many other lovely cities and destinations. For instance, it’s about halfway between Paris and Rouen, and Dieppe and Le Havre are nearby as well.

How To Get There

Take A Taxi

If you’re short on time, you can take a taxi to Giverny. The price is steep — one-way fares cost about $200 — but you’ll be there in about 50 minutes. If you’re traveling in a quartet and want the most flexibility possible, a taxi is the way to go.

Take The Train And Bus

From Paris’s Gare Saint-Lazare, you can catch the train to Vernon. There are hourly trains, the trip takes about 50 minutes, and it only costs $10 to $30. From Vernon, you can catch a shuttle bus at the station for just a few euros that takes you to Giverny. It’s an environmentally sound and economical way to travel, but the journey will take more time.

The Japanese-inspired water garden in Giverny. — Massimo Santi / Shutterstock

Join A Tour

There are plenty of Paris tour companies that offer bus tours to Giverny. In many ways, these tours offer the best of both worlds. For a reasonable price, you get round-trip transportation on a coach bus, plus admission to Monet’s Gardens, and possibly other perks. The trip is usually quicker than using the trains and buses, and the tour team will take care of all the logistics. On the downside, you’ll be stuck with the schedule of the tour, and you won’t get much free time.

When Is The Best Time To Visit Monet’s Gardens?

The Claude Monet Foundation is open to visitors every day, including holidays, from April 1 to November 1. Visiting during the spring or autumn is ideal for avoiding the crowds and enjoying the gardens. If you do visit in the summer, however, try to arrive when the foundation opens at 9:30 a.m. to beat the crowds and the heat.

If you are a flower fanatic, you’ll want to check the foundation’s online flower blooming calendar before your visit.

Inside Monet's house in Giverny. — Beketoff / Shutterstock

Tickets And Tour Options

Tickets for adults and seniors cost 10.50 euros. Children and students pay 7.50 euros, while those under the age of seven can enter free of charge. There is a reduced fare for disabled visitors, who pay 6 euros. The gardens are wheelchair-accessible, but the house has many steps.

You can buy tickets online in order to skip the lines. Tickets are issued for either the morning or afternoon.

Combination tickets to the Claude Monet Foundation and the Museum of Impressionism are available for a reduced price. However, these tickets must be purchased in person at either museum or at the Vernon tourism office. There are also options to bundle these sites with other Impressionist sites in Paris, including the Musee Marmottan Monet, the Musee de l’Orangerie, and the Musee d’Orsay.

Private tours for groups can be arranged by contacting the foundation in advance. However, most visitors take the self-guided tour, and there are curators stationed throughout the house to answer questions.

The grave of Monet and his family. — Pack-Shot / Shutterstock

What To See In Addition To The Gardens

While Giverny has become synonymous with Monet’s Gardens, it offers so much more. Giverny is a village with lots of things to see and do. Plus, nearby Vernon also has attractions that many visitors overlook.

Museum Of Impressionism

Giverny’s top attraction save for the Claude Monet Foundation gardens, the Museum of Impressionism houses one of Monet’s famous water lily paintings. Generally open from mid-March through mid-November, the museum often closes for a week in July to change exhibits. Check the website before you go to confirm the dates. Admission is free the first Sunday of the month and otherwise costs 8.50 euros.

Eglise Sainte-Radegonde De Giverny

A must-see spot for any Monet fan, this pretty Norman church is where Monet and his family are buried. The crew of a World War II Royal Air Force bomber that crashed nearby is honored here as well.

Modern Impressionist Galleries

Monet may be the star here, but modern-day Impressionists still flock to Giverny. Claude Cambour, Florence Ramier, and Christophe Demarez are set up here on the same road as the Claude Monet Foundation.

Old Railroad Path

Giverny is separated from the town of Vernon (and the train station) by approximately 3 miles. You can easily walk the distance between the two towns by following the old railroad path. It’s a relaxing walk, there’s no chance of getting lost, and Vernon has just as many attractions as Giverny.

Collegiale Notre-Dame De Vernon

This Gothic church, with its beautiful stained glass windows and wooden carvings, is part of what makes a visit to Vernon so special. Admission is free, and you just need a few minutes to explore the inside.

Vernon Fine Arts Gallery And A.G. Poulain Museum

If you’re in the area on a Sunday, you can visit the Vernon Fine Arts Gallery and A.G. Poulain Museum for free. Otherwise, it costs about 5 euros. In addition to an exhibition on Impressionism and the artists of Giverny, it also has a large collection of animal-themed art. Note that it’s closed on Mondays.

Vernon Market

Wednesday and Saturday mornings from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., Vernon comes to life as the Vernon Market takes place at the center of town. Vendors sell everything from fresh fruit and vegetables, local cheese, eggs, honey, and flowers to live rabbits, ducks, and chickens! It’s a great way to enjoy local life in a small French community.

Want to enjoy Paris off the beaten path? Check out these hidden gems, delightful shops, surprising things to do, and lesser-known churches in the city.

Why A Week At HorseWorks Wyoming Belongs On Your Bucket List

“Our ranch changes people,” HorseWorks Wyoming founder MaeCile Brown Massie told me, “but it isn’t the people that change the people — it’s the horses.”

Hearing this, a little something — that inclination toward wide-open spaces and getting mud on my boots — perked up inside. I knew what MaeCile was talking about.

For my sister, my cousin, and me, summer camp was a right of passage. Three glorious years in a row, our parents splurged on us big time: footing the bill for a week away — no grown-ups allowed! And while my memories of swimming in the lake, candlemaking, rock climbing, and drying our swimsuits on clotheslines stretched between our bunk beds never cease to bring a smile to my face, the horseback riding was the thing I lived for all school year long.

Picking “my” horse, petting it, feeding it, bonding with it, and being filled with healthy fear and exhilaration trail ride after trail ride were the pivotal summer camp experiences, at least in my book.

Of course, summer camp, your preteen years, and your true love of horses and the Wild West may seem like distant memories — until you realize you can get back in the saddle, literally, at HorseWorks Wyoming. Here’s everything you need to know about this unparalleled vacation experience, and why a week at HorseWorks Wyoming belongs on your bucket list.

A guest at the ranch petting the horses. — HorseWorks Wyoming

1. You’ll Get Hands-On With Horses

MaeCile wants prospective visitors to know HorseWorks isn’t a dude ranch. That’s one of the first things she stressed when we sat down to talk about the HorseWorks experience.

While all horse-centric getaways sound good to me, I hadn’t given a lot of thought to just how hands-on (or off) you might be when you head out West.

At HorseWorks — which is situated in the town of Thermopolis, about an hour south of Cody — you’re definitely getting hands-on. It’s a rustic working ranch where the focus is on horsemanship and working with animals. “We are not a fancy dude ranch with a lot of staff,” MaeCile told me, and there aren’t a lot of amenities (think dude ranch spas, workout rooms, kids programs, and bars).

Instead, at HorseWorks, you’ll be up before the sun, learning to work with what MaeCile calls your “horse partner,” rotating wranglers, and eventually even saddling your own horse.

Feeding a baby cow at HorseWorks. — HorseWorks Wyoming

2. Cows Are Part Of The Program, Too

Cows are cute. But did you know that a herd of cattle can be essential to horse health? I didn’t either, until MaeCile explained that HorseWorks owns 25 head of cattle, plus their calves, who are used to “work the horses.” And as a rider at HorseWorks, that means you’re going to really learn how to move a cow, but, as MaeCile noted, “not so much that it becomes an endurance contest.”

“People think they want to go on a cattle drive,” MaeCile told me, “but after three hours in the dust behind a herd of cows, they’re not excited about the next four days.”

The HorseWorks difference is that you’ll learn to round up and drive cattle on 650 beautiful acres, but you’ll be sleeping in the same place each night (aside from an optional campout).

Guests can also be involved in calf and foal watch and may get to witness the birth of baby animals, whether they choose to ride or not.

Of course, I had to ask what happens to all those bitty babies. MaeCile explained that HorseWorks weans its calves at 6 months. “Some we sell, and some we keep as replacement heifers to keep the herd size constant.” She said the decision is based on their temperament, and that she sometimes keeps a calf because her mother is getting older.

Her newest favorites were surprise babies; a neighbor’s bull must’ve gotten in with the HorseWorks herd!

A HorseWorks guest riding horses in the wilderness. — HorseWorks Wyoming

3. You’ll Actually Learn How To Ride

“Stick you on a horse and you go — you don’t really learn how to ride.” That’s MaeCile’s take on the horseback riding experience at your average dude ranch. But MaeCile’s own story may be the best proof that HorseWorks’ guests are going to really learn how to ride (if they want to).

Growing up in Kentucky, her father was a vet and her grandparents had a dairy farm. “The first animal I rode was a dairy cow,” she told me. She got a horse when she was 13 but admits her parents didn’t know much about horses or their proper care. She fell in love with the animal but never really learned how to ride.

Fast forward to adulthood: MaeCile spent time abroad in China, and when she came back to the states, her heart’s desire was to spend time with horses. Over dinner with a senator from Montana, she got some insight that changed her life: “You don’t need to go to Australia or something like that.” A short time later, she headed west and met her first husband, Nate Brown, a rancher and horseman.

They spent over five years regularly tent camping and riding in the mountains. Then the opportunity to buy back a ranch Nate previously owned presented itself. HorseWorks was born, and MaeCile’s understanding of the difference between getting on a horse and knowing how to ride has grown with it.

Guests at HorseWorks riding horses in the wilderness. — HorseWorks Wyoming

4. It’s A Bonding Experience

The working ranch experience isn’t for everyone. It’s not the place for a large family vacation, or a setting for young children. But it can be an excellent bonding experience, whether you arrive solo — as the majority of HorseWorks’ guests do — and bond with fellow riders (who could be from as far away as Scandinavia or China!) and your horse partner, or come as a pair. MaeCile’s seen spouses, friends, and parent-and-grown-children pairs thrive during their time at HorseWorks.

Part of the magic behind this is HorseWorks’ small size and MaeCile’s attentiveness to detail. On average, the ranch hosts only 14 guests at a time, and she is more than willing to keep couples together or separate mothers and their teen or adult children if they need independent time.

And what if one guest in a pair is less than interested in horseback riding? Well, they’re welcome and are in for a week of unwinding. MaeCile ensures couples will get to do what they want together (think walking the ranch, bottle feeding calves, and hot coffee and meals), but while you’re out riding, your non-riding partner can kick back with a book, enjoy the beauty of the property, or drive into Thermopolis or Cody.

There’s also bonding with the horses for those who arrive to ride. MaeCile told me, “We match people to horses that are appropriate to their riding ability and goals. If a horse they want to ride is beyond their ability when they arrive, we work with them to try to attain the level to ride that horse before they go.”

“Sometimes at the end of a week, like Friday morning, we’ll schedule time to let people trade horses in the arena so they can experience a variety of horses running barrels, going over obstacles, or working with me in an instruction setting in the round pen.”

HorseWorks’ application and booking forms ask specific questions that help match each rider with the best horse for them, but MaeCile let us in on a little secret: “If they mark ‘Give me your wildest beast,’ or ‘Will try anything!’ we know that odds are they are inexperienced and match them with appropriate horses until proven otherwise.” MaeCile knows best!

5. You’ll Get Back To Nature (And Press Reset On Old Routines)

Waking up at 5 a.m. to rugged terrain and a long day of riding and caring for animals isn’t everyone’s idea of a vacation, but if it’s yours, HorseWorks is the place.

MaeCile said, “One thing I learned from Nate” — who passed away in 2016 — “was good food, good horses, and beautiful scenery.” That’s exactly what you get at HorseWorks, and from the land and communities around it.

On the ranch, expect to bed down in a two- or four-person cabin a short walk from the HorseWorks lodge. The cabins, like the ranch itself, are rustic. Four-person cabins have bunk beds, and a cabin stay means no running water in your room. The lodge, however, is spacious, with men’s and women’s bathrooms (toilets and hot showers included) that are handicapped accessible.

And while off-ranch experiences aren’t included in the HorseWorks price, there’s a free hot springs bathhouse in Thermopolis, the Friday night rodeo in Cody, and an opportunity to venture to Yellowstone (approximately 2 hours by car) Saturday and Sunday with suggestions for beautiful scenery and wildlife sightings from MaeCile and the other ranch staff.

Cooking breakfast over a campfire. — HorseWorks Wyoming

6. Eat Well (Around The Campfire And Elsewhere)

HorseWorks’ lodge, and the kitchen within, are open 24/7 for your snacking (and running water) needs, and meals are typically served family-style. MaeCile’s eager to accommodate guests who are gluten-free, lactose intolerant, or have other special dietary needs or restrictions.

In fact, she invites guests to go shopping with her and her staff. “We pick them up at the airport, and our first stop is the grocery store.”

There is a weekly campout during which more rustic eats will be served, but MaeCile told me those who prefer to get back to their cabins and the comfort of the lodge often ride back in the truck.

Some riders and campers even opt to go back in the truck the next morning, leaving their horses to run alongside or be rounded up by other riders later in the day, which paints a beautiful picture of the sense of family and freedom on the ranch.

HorseWorks guests at the entrance to the ranch. — HorseWorks Wyoming

7. Check Out With The Sense Of A Job Well Done (And Maybe A New Horse)

Whether you’re an experienced rider or totally new to the Wild West world of horseback riding, you’ll leave your week at HorseWorks knowing how to ride and feeling intimately connected to both “your” horse, the cattle, and the land.

You can take your memories and your new routine (rising early and getting outdoors regularly) with you. Some people even buy their horses from the ranch.

“Any time you can find a loving home for a horse, you should let them go,” MaeCile told me. “That’s our goal, for horses to have a loving home and a productive life.”

A guest exploring the beautiful wilderness at HorseWorks. — HorseWorks Wyoming

Bonus: It’s Incredibly Affordable

I was more than surprised to learn that a week at HorseWorks — rides, campouts, meals, and hot showers in the lodge included — costs under $2,000. In addition to the rustic accommodations meaning more dedicated horse time, they also mean affordability.

Considering that MaeCile, her cook, her wrangler, and her husband Jim (who’s not a horseman, but is “really supportive”) are the only staff, and they typically host only 7 to 14 guests at a time, you’re in for a bespoke week in the Great American West for a fraction of the cost of most week-long vacations, in the States or abroad.

Riders (and their ranch-bound partners) can fly into the Cody, Wyoming, airport for Sunday pickup. Or, if you have time and are up for a gorgeous drive, MaeCile says you can save by flying into Denver and renting a car for a week or two.

Want more on horses? Check out these eight places to see wild horses around the world, and get ready to ride!

Wine Tasting In Oregon’s Willamette Valley: 9 Things To Know

Oregon’s premier wine region, the beautiful Willamette Valley, welcomes about 20 million visitors each year to its nearly 600 wineries. That’s more traffic than the most famous American wine regions, Napa and Sonoma of Northern California, receive! But despite the large amount of tourism, Willamette retains its rustic, low-key, charming vibe and makes the perfect place for a girlfriends’ getaway or romantic weekend escape.

With its host of incredible eateries, world-class vintners, and things to see, do, and drink, Willamette Valley should certainly be on your bucket list. And, after a recent hosted press trip to the region, I have some tips to ensure that your vacation is a smooth and memorable one.

Here are nine things to know about wine tasting in Oregon’s delightful Willamette Valley.

Portland International Airport. — EchoVisuals / Shutterstock

1. The Name Isn’t Pronounced How You Think It Is

First things first: It’s not WillamETTE — it’s WillAMette. You’ll see the phrase Willamette, Damn it on everything from T-shirts to bumper stickers in the region. For years before my visit, I pronounced the name incorrectly. Thankfully, a friend who had been to Willamette before kindly corrected me in time for my trip.

It may seem like a small thing, but proper pronunciation shows respect for the place you’re traveling. My hosts even noticed, since so many of their guests say it incorrectly. So, start your Oregon journey off on the right foot by pronouncing the name of the wine country the right way. The locals will appreciate it, and you’ll look like a seasoned veteran!

2. It’s Best To Fly Into Portland And Rent A Car

The closest major airport to Willamette is in Portland. The Portland International Airport (PDX) is just an hour’s drive from Dundee, a little longer than that from Salem, and nearly 2 hours from Corvallis. I found that the easiest way to explore the valley was with a rental car; just be sure to plan for a sober driver to ensure safety on the roadways.

Vineyard in Willamette Valley, Oregon. — Pernelle Voyage / Shutterstock

3. Pinot Noir Is King

When you think of Oregon wines, pinot noir probably springs to mind. Like Chianti in Tuscany, cabernet in Napa, or Champagne in, well, Champagne, it is synonymous with the region. Of the more than 24,000 acres of vines in the Willamette Valley, 16,536 acres consist of pinot noir grapes.

According to Wine Folly, pinot noir is “the world’s most popular light-bodied red wine… loved for its red fruit, flower, and spice aromas that are accentuated by a long, smooth finish.” Pinot noir is the 10th-most-planted grape in the whole world. And as far as New World wines go, Oregon is considered the best producer of this varietal.

4. There Are Other Excellent Varietals

Just because pinot noir is the clear favorite in Willamette Valley doesn’t mean there aren’t other options. In fact, just about every type of wine drinker will find something to love in Oregon.

Chardonnay is also readily available and grows quite well in regions with pinot noir. According to a winemaker I visited with, 2019 was the first year that more new chardonnay vines were planted than pinot noir vines. Pinot gris is the second-most-prolific grape grown in the Willamette Valley. You’ll also find riesling, gamay, syrah, pinot blanc, and sauvignon blanc aplenty.

One of my favorite wine types was the INOX unoaked chardonnay from Chehalem Winery; simply pop into their Newberg tasting room to check it out. I also loved the sauvignon blanc from Holloran Vineyard Wines, which was hidden deep in the verdant hills. And my favorite effervescent wines came from Dundee’s Argyle Winery.

It’s clear that whatever kind of wine you prefer, you can find it or something like it in Oregon’s wine country.

Vineyard in Oregan. — Hugh K Telleria / Shutterstock

5. The Valley Is Huge, So Plan Accordingly

Before my visit, I had no idea how big the Willamette Valley was. It stretches from Portland in the north to Eugene in the south and is home to about 70 percent of Oregon’s population.

Since it’s so big, I suggest breaking it in half, which can be done at the town of Salem. Anything to the north of that spot can be considered the northern valley, and anything south of it can be considered the southern portion. For best results, I’d focus on only one of those two major sections. Depending on how much time you’ve allotted for your trip, you can then either focus on one area or town or several towns as time allows.

Some of my favorite spots in the valley are Dundee, McMinnville, and Newberg; they’re all in the northern region, where I spent my entire visit. Since this region is closest to the major airport hub of Portland, consider the north for shorter visits and the south for longer stays.

6. There Are Eight AVAs

There are a number of American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) located within the Willamette Valley. The helpful folks at Wine Folly define an AVA as “a grape-growing area with unique geographic and cultural features.” The AVA system was established in 1980 and has since expanded to include 24 regions across the United States. Also noteworthy is that for a wine to claim an AVA label, 85 percent of the grapes need to be from that specific AVA.

In the Willamette Valley, there are eight such areas. These include the original Willamette Valley AVA that dates to 1983, as well as the newest AVA, the Van Duzer Corridor, that was recognized in 2019. Other AVAs include Yamhill-Carlton, McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, Dundee Hills, Chehalem Mountains, and Eola-Amity Hills. Each AVA has its own distinctions, so sample wines from them all to learn what makes them unique. The winemakers will be all too happy to chat with you.

Wine barrels in the cellar of Chehalem Winery. — Chehalem Winery / Shutterstock

7. Cellar Season Is A Great Time To Visit

No matter the destination, I prefer to travel during the off-season. Avoiding peak tourism time means lower prices, more quality time with winemakers, and an overall quieter, less hectic atmosphere.

In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, I suggest embracing the magic that is cellar season. According to my friends at the Willamette Valley Visitors Association, “beginning the first of the New Year and continuing until the onset of spring, this season is both relaxed and vibrant, full of unique offerings to learn, discover, explore, and simply enjoy the glow. Visitors are treated to open country roads, quiet tasting rooms, and casual one-on-one time with winemakers. The holiday rush gives way to irresistible fireplaces and mellow cellars where just-barreled wines come of age. There’s a quiet and contagious energy to the cellar season, from the neatly pruned vineyard rows and moody sunsets to the newly invigorated winemaking community, fresh off another outstanding vintage.”

Special events held during this timeframe include the Truffle Festival, the Oregon Chardonnay Celebration, and the Lange Estate Winter Wine Dinner Series. Cellar season is a lesser-known but no less wonderful time of the year to experience the Willamette Valley.

8. Sustainability Is Key

Another very cool reason to pay attention to the Willamette Valley wine region is its focus on sustainability.

Some environmentally conscious properties to consider are Maysara Winery, Lemelson Vineyards, and Keeler Estate Vineyard. King Estate Winery is another, plus it also happens to be the largest domestic producer of pinot gris. Airlie Winery is a woman-owned spot that is LIVE certified and also dog friendly. A LIVE designation simply means that the vineyard has earned an independent certification for sustainable practices.

Additionally, Illahe Vineyards should be on your list, since it focuses on natural winemaking using a wooden basket press. One vintage,1899, is sourced and supported using only transport powered by horse, bike, and kayak.

9. There’s More To Do Than Wine Tasting

The farm-to-table movement, with its focus on fresh local goods, has long been a tradition in the Pacific Northwest, so there are some excellent dining spots in the valley — try Tina’s, Thistle, or Jory. And with its abundance of natural beauty, Oregon offers amazing hiking options, too. For even more to do besides wine tasting, check out my other Willamette Valley guide.

It’s easy to see that Oregon’s Willamette Valley deserves attention from both seasoned oenophiles and newbie wine lovers. With so much to see and do in this huge region — and world-class wines to boot — I can’t wait to get back and explore even more.