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Why I Can’t Wait To Go Back To The Thousand Polleras Parade In Las Tablas, Panama

Why I Can’t Wait To Go Back To The Thousand Polleras Parade In Las Tablas, Panama

Before I arrived in Panama, the Thousand Polleras Parade (Desfile de las Mil Polleras) was not on my list of things to see or do. I hadn’t even heard of the event. I didn’t know what a pollera was! I read about the festival, which takes place annually on a Saturday in mid-January in the town of Las Tablas, shortly after my husband and I arrived in Panama City.

Las Tablas is located in Panama’s Los Santos Province on the Azuero Peninsula. It is a 4-hour drive from Panama City. We were about to begin a monthlong stay in the town of Pedasi on the tip of the Azuero Peninsula. Since Las Tablas is just a 45-minute bus ride from Pedasi, I added the Thousand Polleras Parade to our itinerary.

I’m so glad I did! I have since recommended the event to other travelers and would love to return and take in the festival again myself.

A woman in the Polleras Parade showing off her skirt.

Donna Janke

What Is A Pollera?

But first things first: What is a pollera?

The pollera is Panama’s national dress. It consists of a handmade skirt and blouse with layered frills running from the bodice down the full length of the skirt.

There are many variations in color and design. The pollera montuna has a flowered skirt. The pollera gala is the most elaborate version and is worn on special occasions and holidays. Made of expensive white fabric, such as fine linen, cambric, or voile, it is decorated with hand-embroidered designs. The wedding pollera is all white.

Men and women in traditional dress for the Polleras Parade.

Donna Janke

A single pollera can take months to make and may be passed down from generation to generation. Although the dress is showy enough on its own, it is accessorized with further ornamentation to create a stunning effect. The women wear large earrings, several long gold necklaces, and headpieces adorned with floral designs.

The montuna, the men’s traditional outfit, is a long-sleeved embroidered white shirt worn over simple black trousers. The men also wear straw hats decorated with black designs and cross-body cotton-knit coin bags called chacaras.

Las Tablas is known as a center of folklore, traditions, and street celebrations and is an especially fitting place for the Thousand Polleras Parade.

The Thousand Polleras Parade in Las Tablas.

Donna Janke

Why I Can’t Wait To Go Back

The Atmosphere Is Wonderfully Festive, And The Excitement Is Contagious

The Thousand Polleras Parade is more than just a parade. It is a celebration of tradition and a fantastic party.

When we arrived in Las Tablas shortly after 11 a.m., the festive atmosphere had already permeated the town. The bus didn’t go as far into the town as it normally would because the main street was blocked to vehicular traffic. A large tent had been erected across the street from the bus stop. Sound equipment was being set up for an evening party after the parade. Empty chairs lined the streets, and people were saving their spots. Barbecue stands were being set up on every corner. Vendors in the town square at the other end of the main street offered plastic toys, trinkets, crafts, and food. There were meat and sausage skewers and chicken and rice. Music — both live and recorded — could be heard everywhere.

After walking through town, checking out the booths, and having something to eat, we found a spot with partial shade along the curb from which to watch the parade. As we waited, more and more people filled the streets, including some in traditional dress. Some of them were hurrying to a meeting place, and others were carrying garment bags. Vendors walked down the street selling water, sodas, ice cream, and sunglasses. The music became louder.

Raspados at the Thousand Polleras Parade.

Donna Janke

The woman beside us, with whom we’d conversed as best we could with our limited Spanish, bought us raspados from a passing vendor. Raspados are paper cones filled with shaved ice and flavored with sweet syrup and condensed milk. Ordinarily, I might have found this too sweet, but in the afternoon heat and amidst the fiesta spirit, it was refreshing.

In typical Latin American fashion, the parade was late in starting — it didn’t get underway until well after 3 p.m. I didn’t mind, though, since the wait itself felt like a party!

Dresses at the Thousand Polleras Parade.

Donna Janke

The Dresses Are Exquisite

Each dress was a delight to see. The bands of embroidered decoration on each dress were usually of the same color, but the colors varied from dress to dress. Red was particularly popular, but I also saw blue, purple, orange, and black.

I marveled not only at the work that clearly went into each dress, but at the effort it took for each woman to dress up for the event. Their hair was carefully pulled back to hold the elaborate floral headpieces, and their makeup was flawless.

An elaborate floral headpiece.

Donna Janke

Women of all ages, from small girls about two years old to elderly grandmothers, wore the pollera. Even some of the spectators who weren’t participating in the parade donned their polleras.

As the women passed by, they readily stopped to say hello and to pose and smile for photographs, holding the sides of their skirts out to fully show off the dress. There were yards and yards of material in each pollera.

Women on floats at the Polleras Parade.

Donna Janke

The Parade Showcases The Best Of Panamanian Culture

At last, the parade started. Women and men in traditional dress paraded and danced past us accompanied by brass, percussion, and accordion bands. The sight of the colorful dresses twirling together en masse was simply enchanting. I couldn’t help but smile.

Visitors and locals danced alongside the parade participants. Some of the pollera-clad women were transported on elaborately decorated floats depicting scenes from Panamanian life or folklore. Men with long poles accompanied the floats. They used the poles to raise the electrical wires running across the street so that the floats could pass underneath.

Women in traditional dress at the Polleras Parade.

Donna Janke

The parade continued for hours. There weren’t just a thousand polleras — there were many thousands of polleras. It was after 6 p.m. when we decided we needed to head back to Pedasi. The parade was still going strong. I read another person’s report of their visit to the parade, and they said that the event lasted well into the evening and ended with a fireworks display.

It was an amazing day, and I will remember it fondly for the rest of my life.

If you attend the Thousand Polleras Parade, remember to bring a hat, sunscreen, and water. It will be hot! You may also want to bring a portable chair.

How To Spend A Day In Cape Girardeau, Missouri

Cape Girardeau, Missouri, is located near Missouri’s Bootheel, the southeastern portion of the Show Me State that resembles a boot’s heel. Whether or not you have the Missouri Bootheel on your bucket list, one thing is for sure: Cape Girardeau needs to be on it. With its rich Civil War and Native American history, its natural beauty, and its excellent dining options, the town makes a great place to spend a day (or two… or three!).

Here are the best things to see and do on a visit to Cape Girardeau.

Trail of Tears State Park, Mississippi River, Cape Girardeau County, Missouri,
Malachi Jacobs / Shutterstock.com

Visit Trail Of Tears State Park

In the 1830s, about 16,000 Native Americans were forced to walk from their homeland in the southeastern United States to the Indian Territory (Oklahoma). The route, which became known as the Trail of Tears, entailed crossing the Mississippi River near Cape Girardeau.

During the march, a group of Cherokee people became separated from the others when the Mississippi River froze. Stuck in the area without food, water, or supplies, the Native Americans and soldiers had to find a way to survive the winter there. Today, a memorial in the area, now the Trail of Tears State Park, honors the only person to die that winter, a young Cherokee girl.

Trail of Tears State Park’s visitor center acknowledges this chapter of American history with an exhibit that includes a film describing the Trail of Tears and its Missouri connection.

While the park pays tribute to the people who endured the Trail of Tears, it also encourages visitors to explore the area, including an overlook offering impressive views of the Mississippi River. Trail of Tears State Park also features excellent hiking trails, a small lake, and other scenic views. Camping and picnicking areas are available within the park.

Replica of Fort D in Cape Girardeau.

City of Cape Girardeau

Learn About The Area’s Civil War History

Civil War buffs will find plenty to do in the Cape Girardeau area. While it was a Union stronghold, Cape Girardeau had its Confederate sympathizers. After all, Union soldiers took the area from the Confederate army during the Battle of Cape Girardeau in 1863. Following the battle, the area was protected by four forts: A, B, C, and D.

Today, a replica of Fort D stands on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River. The fort is open for tours, and it’s especially crowded during holiday weekends, when Civil War reenactors occupy the grounds and share stories with visitors.

A driving tour of an hour or two will take you to key Civil War spots in the city. From Port Cape Girardeau (now a restaurant) on the river to the Old Courthouse Park with its memorials to the Union and Confederate armies, you can get an up-close look at the area’s Civil War history.

You may also want to visit the Old Lorimier Cemetery, where several of Cape Girardeau’s early leaders are buried. You can pick up a copy of the tour map at the visitor center downtown.

The Riverfront Park in Cape Girardeau.

City of Cape Girardeau

Take A Walking Tour Of The Downtown Area And Riverfront

Cape Girardeau’s riverfront is home to an impressive collection of murals covering Missouri’s history, as well as a state Wall of Fame. Painted on a flood wall designed to protect the downtown area from high water from the Mississippi River, the murals tell the stories of the state’s most significant moments, including the Louisiana Purchase, the Civil War, and the Mississippi River trade. The Hall of Fame murals recognize Missouri natives or citizens from Mark Twain and Harry S. Truman to Stan Musial and Walter Cronkite.

A short walk down the river will take you to Riverfront Park, a small space with trees and flowers as well as a view of the sleek Emerson Bridge that crosses into Illinois.

The downtown area is full of street art, from murals showcasing area history to a sculpture walk that features new designs each year. You’ll also find storefronts dating back to the 1800s and early 1900s.

The Cape Girardeau Conservation Nature Center.

Missouri Department of Conservation

Experience Nature And Wildlife

The Cape Girardeau Conservation Nature Center offers a variety of hiking trails as well as exhibits on hunting, natural resources, and how the two interact. There are also exhibits covering life on the Mississippi River and area wildlife, including fish and birds. The center may be best known, however, for its two-headed rat snake. Found in the wild, the snake was unable to survive on its own, so it now enjoys life at the nature center.

The Lazy L Safari Park is a walk-through zoo featuring an array of animals from llamas and zebras to goats and lemurs. No matter your age, you’ll feel like a kid as you walk around the park, feeding the goats, admiring the white peacock, and looking up at the camels. While you’re at the park, stop in the parakeet jungle and hand-feed the colorful birds as they flock to and land on you. It’s a fun place to visit between April and October.

Eating In Cape Girardeau

Sand’s Pancake House

With entrees under $10, Sand’s Pancake House is a great place to start your day with a hearty breakfast. You can enjoy plate-sized pancakes or other dishes that are sure to fill your plate and satisfy your appetite. The building may look like a hole-in-the-wall diner, but don’t let its looks scare you off. A lot of times, these sorts of places make the best eats! You’ll want to put any diet plans on hold as you sample the biscuits and gravy, corned beef hash, or gigantic omelets. Open daily from 5 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Sand’s draws crowds on weekends.

Muy Bueno

For an authentic Mexican lunch, stop at Muy Bueno. The restaurant’s menu features tacos and enchiladas as well as other Mexican favorites. Movie buffs will enjoy dining here, since Muy Bueno was a favorite spot for the cast of the movie Gone Girl, which was filmed In Cape Girardeau. Director David Fincher sent the owners an autographed copy of the movie poster. As you enjoy your lunch, the staff might share stories about the actors, including Ben Affleck.

Broussard’s Cajun Cuisine

You’ll think you’re dining in the French Quarter at Broussard’s Cajun Cuisine. Plates overflowing with jambalaya, etouffee, and beans and rice are just some of the items on offer. Since the portion sizes are so large, you might want to split an entree or two with your partner and take home leftovers to your hotel.

Shopping In Cape Girardeau

Cape Girardeau’s downtown area is home to some impressive antique stores and boutiques.

Pastimes Antiques offers visitors more than 10,000 square feet of shopping space and about 50 dealers selling items ranging from vintage dresses to classic magazines. A visit to Pastimes is like taking a walk through history, and there’s a story to go along with almost everything in the store.

Annie Laurie’s Antiques offers visitors an opportunity to explore classic home decor and antiques in a former funeral home.

Where To Stay In Cape Girardeau

Historic Kage House

Located downtown and a short walk from the riverfront, the Historic Kage House was built in the 1880s. Visitors can rent the homey apartment available on the second floor. Kage House requires a minimum stay of two nights.

Hotels

If you prefer a hotel, Cape Girardeau is home to nearly 20 chain locations. However, Missouri-based Drury hotels offer a comfortable stay at a reasonable rate. Cape Girardeau has four Drury properties: Drury Plaza Hotel, Drury Inn & Suites, Pear Tree Inn West, and Pear Tree Inn Medical Center. The Drury hotels offer midscale hotel accommodations, while the Pear Tree Inn properties are more economical.

Visiting Vinales, Cuba: 8 Things To See And Do

When the hustle and bustle of Havana becomes overwhelming after a few days, many travelers make their way to Vinales.

Vinales is a quaint countryside town in western Cuba situated just 2.5 hours west of Havana. This sleepy village is known for its tobacco plantations, dramatic karst landscapes, and relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. Life moves a little slower here, forcing visitors to take in the soul-enrapturing beauty around them.

Here are some of the best things to see and do on a visit to Vinales.

1. Dance To Live Cuban Music

Live Cuban music can be found on practically every street corner in Vinales’s quaint downtown area, bringing this sleepy countryside town to life each night.

One of the best parts about Cuba in general is the abundance of live music on the street, and Vinales is a great place to witness this phenomenon. You’re guaranteed to hear songs from Cuba’s beloved ensemble Buena Vista Social Club, a group established in 1996 to revive the music of pre-revolutionary Cuba. Songs like “Chan Chan” and “Pueblo Nuevo” will have you dancing (and probably drinking) alongside Vinaleros late into the night.

While you won’t have trouble running into live Cuban music on the streets of Vinales, El Vinalero is a great bar and restaurant offering live music at night (it functions as a tribunal during the day). El Vinalero is a great local hangout where delicious mojitos are sold for only 90 cents.

The writer horseback riding in Vinales Valley.

Alexandra Mahoney

2. Go Horseback Riding

One of the best ways to see the countryside of Vinales is to go horseback riding.

Vinales Valley was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999, and horseback riding through this dramatic landscape will undeniably be one of your best memories of Vinales. Visitors can witness traditional agricultural techniques and gaze upon the stunning karst panorama of the area.

Riding Vinales offers 5-hour and 6-hour tours that stop at some of the most spectacular spots in the valley. Tours include cave excursions and visits to local tobacco plantations for a chance to try the famed Cuban cigar.

While you can book a horseback riding excursion in advance, you can also arrange this activity through most Airbnbs in Vinales.

3. Catch A Salsa Show At Centro Cultural Polo Montanez

After my cousin and I toured Vinales Valley on horseback, we met some locals who told us to meet them that night at Centro Cultural Polo Montanez. We didn’t really know what to expect, but we went anyway, and it ended up being the best nightlife experience we had in Vinales.

Centro Cultural Polo Montanez is named for the famous guajiro (country folk) sensation Polo Montanez, a Cuban singer and songwriter who gained international fame and then died tragically in a car accident in 2002.

Centro Cultural Polo Montanez offers live performances every night from 9 p.m. to 2 a.m., and admission for foreign visitors only costs $1. There are different performers each night. While I was there, a group of about 10 Afro-Cuban dancers put on a fantastic salsa show.

After the show, the stage becomes a dance floor where visitors and locals are invited to dance salsa and other Latin dance styles until closing time.

A tobacco plantation in Vinales.

Sabino Parente / Shutterstock

4. Visit A Tobacco Plantation

Cuban cigars are practically synonymous with Cuba itself; they’re simply referred to as Cubanos. Tobacco is the main crop grown in Vinales, so it will come as no surprise that there are numerous tobacco plantations to visit during your trip.

As I mentioned before, a great way to see one of these tobacco plantations is via a horseback riding tour. Without a doubt, your Airbnb host will be able to book you a tour at any time. Each time my cousin and I wanted to do something in Vinales, we would let our host know, and she would call someone and have a tour ready for us within 15 minutes.

A visit to a tobacco plantation in Vinales offers visitors an opportunity to travel back in time to a simpler world where agriculture flourished. You’ll meet a local tobacco farmer who will tell you about the process of growing tobacco plants and the ways in which they use the leaves to make Cuban cigars. Of course, you will also have the opportunity to try a cigar yourself.

Honey is another crop that’s commonly produced in Vinales, since the tobacco plantations use it to seal their cigars and may even rub a small amount near the tips to prevent chapped lips.

You can usually purchase Cuban cigars at tobacco plantations to bring back home to friends and family.

5. Explore A Coffee Plantation

Another of Vinales’s commonly grown crops is coffee. Coffee is consumed by most Cubans, and coffee plantations are located throughout Vinales Valley.

You can visit many coffee plantations in conjunction with the nearby tobacco plantations; they are popular stops on horseback riding tours of Vinales.

The Mural of Prehistory in Vinales.

Alexandra Mahoney

6. See The Mural Of Prehistory

One of the largest murals in the world, the Mural of Prehistory (Mural de la Prehistoria), was painted in 1961 by Leovigildo Gonzalez Morillo, who studied under the great muralist Diego Rivera.

Approximately 260 feet tall and 400 feet wide, the Mural of Prehistory depicts the life of the first inhabitants of the Cuban archipelago. The mural is part of the mountain Mogote Dos Hermanas and surrounded by unparalleled views of Vinales Valley. Goats and other local animals roam free here, adding to the unique charm of the area.

The Mural of Prehistory makes a great photo op, and you’ll find a souvenir shop and a few small outdoor bars nearby. Try the excellent pina coladas!

7. Appreciate The Views At Mirador De Valle De Vinales

Views of Vinales Valley and the surrounding Sierra de los Organos can be seen at various points throughout the city, but you’ll find an excellent lookout point with a stunning panoramic view at Mirador de Valle de Vinales, which is adjacent to the town’s famous Hotel Horizontes Los Jazmines.

8. Cycle Around Vinales

Since Vinales is relatively small, one of the best ways to see the entirety of this charming village in a short amount of time is by renting bicycles and cycling through the town.

There are a handful of bike rental points in Vinales, with mountain bike rentals available for about $15 to $20 per day. Your Airbnb hosts can help arrange bike rentals or cycling tours.

A restaurant in Vinales.

Florian Augustin / Shutterstock

Eating In Vinales

Downtown Vinales is teeming with delectable local cuisine, along with a variety of pizza parlors and restaurants catering to tourists.

Tres Jotas

Tres Jotas is one of the most famous restaurants in Vinales, serving hot tapas, a vast selection of wine, delicious cocktails, and an abundance of options you won’t find at other local hubs.

When dining at Tres Jotas, be sure to try one of the signature dishes: slow-cooked lamb marinated in red wine.

La Dulce Vida

If you’ve had enough rice and beans, head to La Dulce Vida, the best Italian restaurant in Vinales. It offers delicious wood-fired pizzas and classic Italian pasta.

La Dulce Vida has a welcoming and relaxing ambience and a comfortable outdoor seating area with cushioned seats, ideal for a nightly recap and people-watching opportunities.

El Olivo

Offering vegan and vegetarian options, El Olivo is a Mediterranean-style restaurant that serves up soups, salads, grilled vegetables, vegan paella, and pasta dishes.

El Olivo is one of Vinales’s few true farm-to-table restaurants, with most of its ingredients coming straight from the restaurant’s farm just about 2 miles up the road.

Balcon Del Valle

A dining experience with a view, Balcon del Valle is a traditional Cuban restaurant with a three-story wooden deck overlooking the breathtaking Vinales Valley.

Balcon del Valle has friendly staff members and affordable meals, with all mains accompanied by rice, salad, fruit, and plantain chips. Be sure to try some of the restaurant’s fresh fish and sit back and relax with a refreshing mojito.

Shopping In Vinales

Since Vinales is a small town, the shopping consists mostly of souvenir shops and local craft shops.

A private-enterprise market, Mercado de Artesania, sets up daily on Calle Joaquin Perez, selling a variety of Cuban-themed arts and crafts. Here you can find Che Guevara and Fidel Castro knickknacks, along with stalls selling jewelry, hats, T-shirts, and leather goods.

While you’ll find the best Cuban cigars at the local tobacco plantations, Vinales is home to a famous cigar shop called El Estanco that offers top-notch Cuban cigars at affordable prices.

When strolling through downtown Vinales on Calle Salvador Cisneros, you’ll find shops selling unique Cuban products, such as CDs by local musicians, locally made instruments, and, of course, Cuban rum.

Landscape of Vinales Valley.

Alexandra Mahoney

Traveling To Cuba From The United States

It should be noted that there is a travel ban in place for U.S. citizens traveling to Cuba.

In 2015, President Barack Obama lifted the embargo against Cuba, allowing U.S. citizens to travel there for the first time since 1962. In June 2019, however, President Donald Trump announced new travel restrictions on visits to Cuba — you can read more about the ban here. In short, recreational and educational travel to Cuba, including cruise travel, is now prohibited.

Despite the recent ban, U.S. citizens can still visit Cuba; they simply must mark one of 12 options on their visa. The most common of these is “support for the Cuban people.”

Under this form of travel, U.S. citizens are required to support only the local economy in Cuba and are prohibited from partaking in any activity or staying in any accommodation funded by the government. For example, since many resorts and hotels are funded by the Cuban government, U.S. citizens must stay in Airbnbs, known in Cuba as casas particulares.

Before heading to Cuba, I was quite worried about the recent travel ban and wondered how much it would affect my trip. Thankfully, the only time the ban was apparent was at airports in the U.S. I was required to provide my reasoning for traveling to Cuba when checking into my flight, and I was asked for my reasoning again when going through customs on my way back home.

For more information on how to visit Cuba from the U.S. in 2020, see this piece.

Why You Should Discover Little Sweden In Lindsborg, Kansas

As you explore Lindsborg, Kansas, don’t be surprised if someone greets you with “Valkommen till Lindsborg!” They’re just welcoming you to their small community. Located about an hour north of Wichita on Interstate 35, the town of about 3,500 is quite proud of its Scandinavian heritage. From its attractions to its food and architecture, Lindsborg — nicknamed Little Sweden — offers a taste of life in the motherland.

Here are a few reasons why you should make time to visit.

One of the dala horse sculptures in Lindsborg.

Tim Trudell

You’ll Love The Dala Horse Sculptures

The first thing you’ll notice when you head downtown are the dozens of horse sculptures, or dalas, in front of the stores and restaurants. The dala, one of the national symbols of Sweden, represents the central province of Dalarna. The colorful figures even have names, such as Dolla Dala, who is painted with dollar bills. Other dalas feature the Swedish and American flags, grapes, and characters from local theater productions.

Visitors to the town flock to Hemslojd Swedish Gifts for dala souvenirs. Dalas are the most popular items at the store, and you can personalize them any way you choose. The wooden art pieces are hand-carved daily in a small workshop at the store. Then, two artists hand-paint the horses and use their calligraphy skills to add a family name or message. In the gift shop, you can find dala sculptures of all sizes, as well as gnomes, ornaments, crystal, and even baseballs, all of which can be personalized by the artists.

An art gallery in Lindsborg.

Tim Trudell

It’s Home To A Vibrant Art Scene

For a small town, Lindsborg has an impressive art scene featuring everything from downtown art galleries to museums to public art displays.

Small World Gallery combines handcrafted jewelry with photos by a National Geographic photographer, while Hands of Time Gallery offers hand-carved art pieces, including life-size clocks.

Lindsborg pays homage to two great artists who once called the town home. The Birger Sandzen Memorial Gallery on the campus of Bethany College shares the story and artwork of Birger Sandzen, a Swedish immigrant who came to teach in the United States. His early art consisted of broad brushstrokes and beautiful landscapes. Later in life, his paintings became more detailed, with sharper lines. He taught at the college for several years, and he even had a studio on campus, which has been preserved as he left it.

Lester Raymer was a jack-of-all-trades in the art world. There seemed to be nothing he couldn’t create: He produced paintings, woodcarvings, sculptures, and more. The artist even crafted handmade toys for his wife each Christmas, some more elaborate than others. His work included toy soldiers, puppets, and carousels. Raymer passed away inside his Red Barn Studio, which continues to display his final painting. Tours are offered, and admission is free.

Bethany College is home to a series of outstanding sculptures. These are sprinkled around the campus and include unique pieces such as a sculpture appearing to have blades rather than arms. A more traditional piece depicts a boy and girl playing with a small dog. These sculptures are mostly the work of former students.

A European-style phone booth stands in front of the Blacksmith Coffee Roastery and is a popular photo op.

Coronado Heights in Kansas.

Tim Trudell

You Can Enjoy The Great Outdoors

Running from near Bethany College to just outside of town, the Valkommen Trail is a 2.5-mile route perfect for walking or jogging. Ending near the McPherson County Old Mill Museum at Smoky Hill River, the converted railroad line offers a bit of history along with pretty views: Historical markers along the path point out important events and buildings. The mill is a lovely place to take in the scenery or do a little exploring off the trail. Nearby, Heritage Square is a living history museum that provides a look at Lindsborg’s early days as a Swedish settlement and railroad town.

About a 10-minute drive from town is Coronado Heights, a stone castle overlook built during the Great Depression. It calls to mind the Spanish explorer Francisco Vasquez de Coronado’s visit to central Kansas in the mid-1500s.

A Swedish flag in Lindsborg.

Tim Trudell

The Architecture Is Unique

Architecture buffs will love downtown Lindsborg, with its buildings dating to the late 1800s. Several structures, such as the city hall, resemble Scandinavian buildings with their traditional colors and unusual designs. The Swedish flag also flies on street corners and in front of businesses.

There Are Plenty Of Dining Options

Lindsborg has some delightful dining options, from a world-famous bar and grill to traditional Swedish fare.

Ol Stuga looks like an ordinary bar from the outside, but once you enter the family-friendly establishment, you’ll quickly learn that a famous Russian leader once ate here and that the bar’s famous sandwich has been featured on national television. Mikhail Gorbachev visited Lindsborg to deliver a speech at Bethany College. Community leaders brought him to Ol Stuga for lunch. Did he try the world-famous Brent Nelson sandwich? You’ll need to read the story at the bar to find out.

The Brent Nelson sandwich — which features Polish sausage on a hoagie topped with onions, Cheddar, and hot pepper cheese — was named a finalist in Good Morning America’s search for the best sandwich in America. The Nelson got its name when a local named (you guessed it) Brent Nelson wanted something different for a sandwich, and the cook came up with the unusual combination. From that day forward, Nelson always ordered the same sandwich.

The Swedish Crown restaurant downtown, which is operated by the college, offers a combination of American and Swedish fare. Want a burger? You can order a traditional one or try the Swede Burger, which features lingonberry barbecue sauce. The restaurant also sells Swedish meatballs, dill potatoes, a side of lingonberry sauce, and rye bread. You’ll leave feeling full!

Farley’s Bar and Grill offers traditional American food like chicken-fried steak, coconut chicken tenders, and burgers. There’s a special menu for Sunday brunch.

Coffee enthusiasts should visit Blacksmith Coffee Roastery, which is located in a former smithy. Blacksmith also offers a lunch menu featuring sandwiches and soups. At the other end of downtown is The White Peacock, which features a comfortable lounge area surrounded by books. Both coffeehouses are excellent places to enjoy a cup of your favorite coffee or tea and a little conversation.

Its Bed And Breakfasts Are Charming

If you’re a fan of bed and breakfasts, Lindsborg has got three: Seasons of the Fox, Rosberg House Bed & Breakfast, and Drom Sott Inn (Sweet Dreams Inn). Each of these bed and breakfasts is wonderfully charming and centrally located.

Kelleys Island: Ohio’s Best-Kept Secret

I have visited Kelleys Island a couple of times and have fallen in love again and again. This island is located a little over 10 miles from Sandusky, Ohio, and is home to approximately 300 people, which, on average, swells to 1,500 people each day in the summer.

If you love the island life and adventure, Kelleys Island is for you. Here are some of the best things to do there, whenever you go.

The Kelleys Island Ferry in Ohio.

Dan Hazard

Ride The Ferry To Kelleys Island

Getting to Kelleys Island is an adventure in itself. There are no roads or bridges, and visitors must travel by private boat, ferry, or plane to get there.

The Kelley’s Island Ferry Boat Line offers service out of Marblehead, Ohio. Passenger service, as well as space for automobiles, RVs, trucks, and tractor-trailers, are available.

If the weather is a little drizzly and cloudy, I would suggest boarding the ferry with your car. If the weather looks great, hop on the ferry as a walk-on passenger and rent a golf cart when you get to the island. Dress in layers either way, and know that it’s important to pay attention to the time that the last ferry leaves the island.

Depending on what time of year you visit, you will want to monitor the weather, as the ferry may stop running in cases of inclement weather and ice. Ferry service usually closes in January and resumes when the water opens back up.

Rent A Golf Cart

Renting a golf cart on Kelleys Island will make your visit the ultimate adventure. Once you hop off the ferry, you will see signs to rent golf carts. There are several reputable businesses that rent them. I would suggest renting your golf cart for a minimum of two hours as you will cover quite a bit of ground during that time frame.

Inscription Rock on the shore of Kelleys Island.

LeeG7144 / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Visit Inscription Rock

Inscription Rock is a large limestone boulder on the southern shore of Kelleys Island and not to be missed. The petroglyphs carved into its surface have made it famous. I have recently seen many petroglyphs, and these are just fascinating.

The Inscription Rock drawings were made by Native Americans who inhabited the island before European and American settlers arrived. The artwork has faded over the years, but you can still see the inscriptions if you look closely. It’s truly a fascinating work of art.

Fun Fact: The Chamber of Commerce Director told me that there were two petroglyph rocks on Kelleys Island at one time, but just one remains today.

Visit The Kelleys Island Historical Museum

Park your golf cart in the parking lot at the Kelleys Island Historical Museum. The history of the island is displayed in a fun way throughout the museum, from displays on how electricity was brought to the island to swimsuits. This island has it all, and depictions of the bathing beauties from the 1950s are something the museum prides itself on. Take a step back in time and enjoy the history of Kelleys Island. There is a small fee to enter the museum, which helps in maintaining the facility.

The Glacial Grooves on Kelleys Island.

Dan Hazard

Explore Glacial Grooves

Visiting the Glacial Grooves that you will find on Kelleys Island is a truly unique experience. You can view these unique grooves, which were formed when massive sheets of ice moved during the last ice age via a trail that encompasses them. In fact, the island itself is a chunk of Columbus Limestone. These glacial grooves are 400 feet long, 35 feet wide, and up to 15 feet deep. Park your golf cart in the parking lot and take your camera with you. It’s important to note that there are stairs involved in the walk around the Glacial Grooves, and in some places, the trail is not level.

Engage In Bird Watching And Get Close To Nature

There are several opportunities to enjoy nature on Kelleys Island, and bird watching, supported by the Kelleys Island Audubon Club, is one of them. Several birds can be seen throughout the year, but fall and spring are especially magical. The birds are migrating, which means opportunities for viewing that are unique to the seasons. Pack your binoculars for an outstanding experience on the numerous nature trails around the island.

Eating And Drinking On Kelleys Island

There are several eating establishments on the island. You will not find fast food here; instead, there are family-owned restaurants that roll out the red carpets for their patrons. You will find a brewery, a winery, and even a martini bar on the island.

The Village Pump

The Village Pump has been referred to as the destination watering hole for boaters and visitors alike since 1983. If you enjoy fish, this is where you need to order Lake Erie perch. The Village Pump is open March through December and provide top-notch hospitality for all diners. I had an Italian sandwich when I ate here and loved it.

Kelleys Island Wine Company

The Kelley’s Island Wine Company is more than just a winery. They have abundant indoor and outdoor seating. I personally like to park my golf cart here and find a place to sit outdoors. Here is where you can enjoy wine and a meal that is composed of locally sourced ingredients. Pizza, soup, and flatbreads are some of the popular menu choices. This winery is located off the main drag at 418 Woodford Road.

Kelleys Island Brewery

This fun place where folks gather on Kelleys Island is located right on Lake Erie. Kelleys Island Brewery is where you can enjoy craft beers and indulge in a meal. Burgers, fried pickles, and a frosted chocolate brownie are highlights from their menu. This brewpub is seasonal, as many places are on Kelleys Island.

Where To Shop On Kelleys Island

One of my favorite places to shop around Lake Erie Shores and Islands is the General Store on Kelleys Island. They have some of the finest souvenirs and a building full of history. It’s one of those places that you cannot walk by without stopping in. Find a place to park your golf cart on the main street and get shopping. This is also the perfect place to pick up sunscreen, insect repellant, and any other items you may have forgotten back on the mainland.


Where To Stay On Kelleys Island

Kelleys Island is home to many different options when it comes to lodging. The many different types of lodging available make it an inviting island for people with all sorts of tastes and needs when it comes to a place to stay.

A Water’s Edge Retreat

This award-winning luxury inn is a bed and breakfast and a beautiful place to enjoy island life. A Water’s Edge Retreat is a charming three-story lakefront Queen Anne Victorian that has a beach and beach decks. All guests will enjoy a one-of-a-kind gourmet breakfast in the dining room. Each room has its own unique decor and a private bath. Complimentary bicycles are also available for all guests. An important thing to note is that this destination is for adults only; all guests must be 18 years of age or older.

Kelleys Island State Park Campground

This campground is located in a beautiful natural setting with 100 feet of beach for swimming. Boat enthusiasts will find a boat launch close by, and the Glacial Grooves are a short walk from the campground. Highlights of the campground include 84 electric sites, 45 non-electric sites, showers, and flush toilets. The campground is closed November 1 to April 1 annually. Reservations can be made through the state park website, and I would highly recommend reserving your campsite in advance, as sites fill up fast during the peak season.

Marblehead Lighthouse on the shore of Lake Erie.

nsmith13 / Shutterstock

Traveling To The Kelleys Island Area

The closest airport to Kelleys Island is the Cleveland Hopkins International Airport, which is approximately one hour away. A train is also available to Sandusky, Ohio. I would suggest renting a car at the airport, as you will want to have a car to explore the area around Kelleys Island.

Lake Erie Shores and Islands are also home to a fantastic Merry-Go-Round Museum in Sandusky that is worth a visit. Hop on the carousel and experience the nostalgia that goes with it.

Kelleys Island is full of beauty unlike any place else in the Midwest. Once you set foot on the island, take a look back at where you came from. The Marblehead Lighthouse will most likely be in your view, as well as the beautiful blue expanse of water. The beaches on Kelleys Island will welcome your toes and make for a fun day in the sun. I have been on many Caribbean islands, and Kelleys Island offers the solitude that you can find in the Caribbean, right in the heart of America.

Plan your visit sometime between May and September, as the weather is the best during that time of the year. There are also many places to enjoy a picnic on the island if you so desire. Pack a picnic lunch, along with the other things you will need for the day, before you board the ferry. Dress in layers, as mornings can start out cool before the sun begins to heat things up.

Once you visit, you will be hooked. Kelley’s Island will lure you in and it could easily become an annual getaway.

5 Things You Should Bring On A Long-Distance Train Trip

Long-distance train rides can be a relaxing cross-country adventure — watching the landscape pass, meeting fellow travelers, playing cards, or reading in the observation car — or a long and uncomfortable ride. Your experience will depend on your mindset and how prepared you are before departing. A few important items can make all the difference on a long-distance train trip.

Here are some items you shouldn’t leave behind.

1. Functional Outerwear

I was riding the California Zephyr through parts of Colorado in the springtime. On this two-week trip, I would encounter freezing temperatures and a blizzard in Winter Park, moderate but still chilly weather in Glenwood Springs, and sunny days in the 70s in Grand Junction. Fortunately, I had packed for a variety of weather conditions.

Even on a long train ride, I prefer to pack only one piece of luggage with clothing. My solution to save space? Slip-on boots and a convertible down jacket that subs as a travel pillow.

Rather than packing snow boots, I wore my UGG boots on the train. Wearing them saved space in my bag plus provided comfy warmth while I was on the train — and made middle-of-the-night trips down the aisle easier, since the boots slip on quickly.

Just before departing, I purchased a TUMI puffer jacket. This wound up being my favorite travel accessory (and it still is!). I stayed warm in winter weather, but when I arrived in Grand Junction, the coat easily converted into a travel pillow that I attached to a handle on my luggage, saving valuable space inside my bag. On the train, I snuggled up with the down jacket as a blanket during the day; at night I converted it into a comfy pillow. (I’ll admit that it was pure indulgence to have a down pillow on the train.)

2. Food, Glorious Food

I always pack a cooler for long-distance train rides. Although I’ll dine once or twice in the cafe car or dining car, depending on how long the trip is, having fresh favorites in a cooler is the real treat for me. For some reason, I crave produce when I’m on a train ride, so I pack a bag with apples, bananas, oranges, or other fruit that travels well. I’ll also throw in some nut bars, bags of nuts, a bar of quality chocolate, and other nonperishable snack foods.

I include a few bottles of frozen water — these act as my coolant for the first day of the trip. Usually by the next morning when I pull out my bottled coffee drink (to hold me over until I’m awake enough to go get a hot coffee), the bottled water is melted and ready to drink. I pack plastic bags to refill with ice in the cafe car after my bottled water melts.

Inside the cooler, I create a custom charcuterie board of carrot sticks and hummus, gourmet meats and cheeses, olives, and pickled vegetables. These are items that I don’t normally eat at home, so it feels like a treat on the train. For breakfast, I’ll have a couple boiled eggs from the cooler. I pack napkins, cutlery, and a few paper plates as well.

If my first layover is in Chicago or Washington, I always head to Pret A Manger to refill my cooler with a baguette sandwich and a salad. They offer fresh-made salads, soups, and sandwiches, plus delicious organic coffee.

3. Comfortable Clothes

Comfort is key on a long train ride. I choose clothes that are comfortable enough to sleep in but stylish enough to spend a few hours at the train station or eating in the dining car.

For comfortable pants, I opt for Cindy Karen travel wear like the Cape Town slacks. My favorite travel shoes are Arcopedico’s Vegas walking shoes. They’re comfortable enough to wear all day, slip on and off without difficulty, and are easily packed into luggage.

4. Items For A Good Night’s Rest

If you’re not paying for a sleeper car, comfort should be a top priority when packing for your trip. In addition to the comfortable slip-on shoes and travel pillow that I mentioned earlier, I always pack an eye mask (even though the lights are dimmed at night, there are always some lights on so that passengers can find their way after dark), ear plugs (these come in handy if you’re sleeping near the sliding door between cars — passengers come through all night, and the opening and closing sounds can really prevent a good night’s rest), and either a blanket or sleeping bag.

I’ve found that whatever the temperature is outside, inside the train it’s the polar opposite. Bring a blanket no matter the season to be safe.

5. Personal Items

When I traveled from Kansas City to Hampton, Virginia, I spent more than 36 hours on the rails, including layovers in Chicago and D.C. Since I was in coach and didn’t have the option of a shower, I packed a bag with personal items like toothpaste, a toothbrush, face wipes (I bring plenty of these to use for cleanup after eating and to wash my hands), lotion, lip balm, and any prescriptions. I always bring a hat. Tenth Street sells packable hats that can be rolled and packed when not in use but retain their shape once unpacked.

Add a tablet loaded with movies, some art supplies, or a book you haven’t had a chance to read, and you’re all set to enjoy a long-distance train ride with comforts that will make the time even more memorable.

Want to see the country by train? Consider these eight great stops to make while riding Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, plus these seven Pacific Coast stops to make while riding the Coast Starlight.

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