How To Visit The Palace Of Versailles

My first visit to the Palace of Versailles did not go well. In fact, whenever anyone would ask me about the former residence of France’s royal family, I’d be downright surly. The reason for my grumpy attitude? On the day of my first visit, I woke up with a nasty headache, which didn’t improve as I wandered the estate, overwhelmed by its size. No wonder my memories were less than stellar! But when I took the time to revisit this legendary palace, I appreciated the splendor that has delighted millions of visitors over the centuries.

Here’s everything you need to know before planning a visit to this spectacular place.

The Palace of Versailles in France. — Bartlomiej Rybacki / Shutterstock

When To Visit The Palace Of Versailles

The Palace of Versailles is open from April through October from 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday (on Sundays, it closes 30 minutes early). From November through March it closes at 5:30 p.m. The palace is closed on Mondays and, for that reason, it tends to be busiest on Sundays and Tuesdays (when many Paris museums are closed). In my experience, Thursdays are the best days to visit.

The gardens, which are open until 8:30 p.m. from April through October but close by 6 p.m. during the off-season, are one of the most popular attractions at the Palace of Versailles. While there are many attractive things to see in the gardens during the winter, they’re certainly at their best between late spring and early autumn.

How To Get To The Palace Of Versailles

Versailles is about 15 miles west of Paris. There are several options for getting there.

By Taxi

A taxi ride to the Palace of Versailles takes between 15 and 20 minutes and costs between $45 and $60. This isn’t the most economical option, but it is the quickest and most flexible. If you can round up a few travel partners to share the ride, the price ends up being much more reasonable.

By Train

From the Saint Michel-Notre Dame station, you can catch the RER C train for about $8. Trains leave approximately every 30 minutes, and the trip takes 37 minutes. Once the train arrives at the Versailles Rive Gauche station, it’s an 11-minute walk (or very quick taxi ride) to the main entrance of the palace.

By Tour

There are many tour companies that offer trips to the Palace of Versailles.

On the plus side, they take care of all your transportation needs and offer all-inclusive pricing that includes admission and possibly a guided tour. Some even combine a visit to Versailles with a stop at Claude Monet’s gardens in Giverny.

On the downside, the quality of guided tours can vary greatly from company to company. And you are traveling on their schedule, not your own. Before you book, read the reviews to make sure the tour program meets your expectations.

Tickets And Tour Options

Believe it or not, there are two parts of Versailles that are almost always free. The gardens are open every day, and you can visit them at no cost (save for the days when there are fountain shows). The Gallery of Coaches is also free on days when the Palace of Versailles is open.

The Palace of Versailles itself is also free for certain people: everyone under 18 years old, residents of the European Union under 26 years old, French teachers, and people with disabilities (along with their caregivers). During the off-season, which runs from November through March, the entire estate is free to visit on the first Sunday of the month.

Alas, for everyone else admission fees apply. The Palace Ticket costs 16 euros and includes access to the palace, an audio guide, and any temporary exhibits that might be taking place.

Guests who have already visited the palace itself will find the Estate of Trianon Ticket to be a good value. For 12 euros, you can visit the Estate of Trianon, the beloved woodland hideaway of Marie Antoniette. This ticket includes any temporary exhibits that might be taking place at the estate. However, it does not include admission to the palace.

The Passport Ticket includes all of the attractions included in the Palace Ticket and the Estate of Trianon Ticket. It costs 20 euros, or 27 euros if you choose to add on the musical shows in the gardens (when available). You can buy a Passport Ticket with a timed entry that guarantees access to the palace within a 30-minute window. This is the way to go!

If the idea of seeing the entire property in one day sounds like too much, you can purchase a Two-Day Passport Ticket starting at 25 euros.

At 10 euros, the guided tour is an exceptional value. It takes you through parts of the palace that are normally off-limits to the public. Visitors can choose from two themed guided tours (“Louis XIV at Versailles” and “Splendorous Versailles”), both of which can be booked online.

Inside the beautiful palace of Versailles. — Takashi Images / Shutterstock

What To Do At The Palace Of Versailles

The Palace of Versailles has 700 rooms, 67 staircases, 6,300 paintings, 2,100 statues, nearly 2,000 acres of garden and parkland, and 50 fountains. No wonder I didn’t feel well during my first visit — my head spins now just thinking about it!

Suffice it to say that the majority of visitors see only a fraction of the estate. If you hope to take it all in, you can rent an electric shuttle car, hire a bike or a boat, or hop on the scenic shuttle train (which costs 7.50 euros — the best deal of all, in my opinion).

Whether you try to take in the entire estate or just the highlights, here are some activities you shouldn’t miss.

See The Palace

If you’re visiting the Palace of Versailles for the first time, head straight for the spectacular palace itself! This is where the famous Hall of Mirrors, the king’s private chambers, and the royal chapel are all located.

The effort to restore the palace is ongoing and mind-boggling. After the French Revolution, all the furniture and fixtures were auctioned off. The process of tracking down those priceless antiques and repurchasing them has been a costly and painstaking one. The available audio guides, which are included in the price of admission, will help you make sense of it all.

The Grand Trianon palace at Versailles. — Pack-Shot / Shutterstock

Visit Marie Antionette’s Refuge

The Palaces of Trianon are cozy woodland escapes where the ill-fated Marie Antoinette would retreat from the pressures of everyday life. It’s an intimate look at an otherwise very public life.

The palaces are open during the afternoon, and you should reserve at least 3 hours to explore the many buildings and gardens.

Go To A Musical Show

The gardens of the Palace of Versailles are filled with spectacular fountains. They’re wonderful to visit at any time of year, but they really come to life during the musical fountain shows, which take place from April through November on Saturdays and Sundays. During the summer months, a fountain show is held every Saturday evening. There are many additional dates; see the palace’s calendar of events to take advantage of this special programming.

Partake In Sports (No, Really!)

The Palace of Versailles is a gorgeous green space, and joggers love it. It’s also hugely popular as a cycling spot, and you can rent bikes on-site. Tai chi is practiced in different parts of the park, and rowers rent boats to get their strokes in (in fact, Olympic medalists train here!). Road races, triathlons, and equestrian events also take place in the gardens. You can read more about the estate’s history of sports and the different activities available here.

Want to enjoy more of Paris off the beaten path? Check out these hidden gems, delightful shops, surprising things to do, and lesser-known churches in the city.

6 Budget-Friendly European Capitals You Should Visit

Turquoise waters lapping against rocky shorelines, majestic castles rising among verdant hills, old and new architecture in modern yet historic cities: These images and more spring to mind when daydreaming about a European holiday.

But what doesn’t enter our vacation fantasies? The reality of budget constraints. Luckily, there are a handful of amazing and affordable spots to visit, even in Europe.

Read on for the best budget-friendly European capitals to add to your bucket list.

Skyline of Belgrade, Serbia. — MarinaDa / Shutterstock

1. Belgrade, Serbia

Belgrade has been likened to Berlin for its extensive nightlife options, but it has so much more to offer travelers. From its vibrant coffee and cafe scene to its huge Zeleni Venac Farmers Market, this city, one of the oldest in Europe, won’t disappoint.

Be sure to try the local fruit spirits, sljivovica and rakija. Sljivovica is distinctly Serbian and uses local plums, while rakija is made all over the Balkans; both are inexpensive boozy options.

Visitors should also take time to stroll along the scenic shores of the Danube and Sava Rivers. After all, Belgrade is the only European capital located at the confluence of two major rivers.

Belgrade offers affordable lodging, dining, and attractions. Additionally, tipping is not expected and haggling is allowed at area flea markets.

The town of San Marino. — Victor Maschek / Shutterstock

2. San Marino, San Marino

The city of San Marino is the capital of one of the world’s smallest nations, also called San Marino. Completely landlocked by the northern Italian countryside, this burgeoning travel destination shouldn’t be missed, both for its low cost and pretty sights.

San Marino is the world’s oldest republic and the only surviving of the former Italian city-states. Travelers should check out the city center as well as nearby Monte Titano, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites.

San Marino is also tax-free, so shoppers should consider that money-saving fact. Additionally, it’s the least-visited country in Europe, which means you won’t be battling crowds like you would in many other cities on the continent.

Skyline of Tallinn, Estonia. — RossHelen / Shutterstock

3. Tallinn, Estonia

This dreamy city, the capital of the Baltic nation of Estonia, is a true hidden gem, combining modern elements with a medieval Old Town for a charming end result. Tallinn is also famous for its quality handicrafts, well-preserved city center, and delicious food and beverage scene.

Most of the highlights are within walking distance, which helps save on transport costs, and there’s a well-reviewed free walking tour available daily. Another cost-saving area initiative is the Tallinn Card, which when purchased allows free admission to more than 40 sites, discounts at area restaurants, and free public transit.

Travelers should be sure to enjoy the world-famous Tallinn Christmas Market if visiting during the off-season of November to January.

For more about the Estonian capital city, check out my article on how to spend a day there.

Aerial view of Bratislava, Slovakia. — TTstudio / Shutterstock

4. Bratislava, Slovakia

The right half of the former Czechoslovakia, the young nation of Slovakia is often overlooked in favor of its glitzier neighbors, Austria and the Czech Republic. But the beautiful capital city of Bratislava offers an affordable European getaway without all the usual tourist mobs.

Hotels are very reasonably priced in Bratislava, and you can easily get a heaping meal for less than 10 euros. Cost-conscious visitors should also consider purchasing a Bratislava Card, which provides access to free tours, free public transportation, free admission to 14 museums and galleries, and numerous discounts (up to 50 percent off at more than 100 spots).

Some highlights of the city are the Bratislava Castle, the Old Town Hall, Michael’s Gate, the Blue Church, and the Primatial Palace.

Aerial view of Tirana, Albania. — Truba7113 / Shutterstock

5. Tirana, Albania

Albania’s capital city of Tirana, an up-and-coming hot spot, offers Mediterranean vibes without the usual price tag of more popular countries like Greece.

Travelers can snack on street food like souvlaki or a trilece for around 1 euro and enjoy a full meal at economical local restaurants for around 10 euros. Plus, three popular museums, the National Museum of History, the National Gallery of Arts, and Bunk’Art, can all be accessed for under 10 euros.

This funky, underrated city won’t stay this way for long, since it’s been getting more attention from international travelers and publications.

The beautiful city of Ljubljana, Slovenia. — Matej Kastelic / Shutterstock

6. Ljubljana, Slovenia

People have become more and more eco-conscious at home, and they’re starting to focus on sustainability while traveling as well. Enter Slovenia, one of the world’s greenest countries, and its gorgeous capital city of Ljubljana. There are red roofs, cobblestone streets, and sweeping mountain views alongside affordable transit options like biking, walking, and public transportation.

If you happen to be in the city between March and October, check out the Open Kitchen food festival, where free live music and affordable gastronomic delights await. Also be sure to check out the famous (and free!) photo opportunity at the city’s gorgeous Triple Bridge, which spans the Ljubljanica River.

It’s clear that a European city break doesn’t have to break the bank. With plenty of beautiful, affordable, and historic capitals to explore across the continent, you can start planning your next getaway as soon as possible. Why not consider the Baltic beauty of Tallinn, Tirana’s sea vistas, or Ljubljana’s sustainable allure?

8 Reasons To Visit The Church Of Saint Sulpice In Paris

With its dramatic flying buttresses, kaleidoscopic stained glass windows, and seven decades of history, it’s no wonder the medieval cathedral of Notre Dame has historically welcomed 13 million visitors each year. But with Paris’s beloved cathedral closed for the next five years due to a devastating fire, her second-largest church is even more worthy of a visit.

Known as the Cathedral of the Rive Gauche, the Church of Saint Sulpice is located in the Odeon Quarter of the sixth arrondissement. With Notre Dame’s closing, it’s the largest church in Paris that is able to celebrate Mass and welcome visitors, and it’s temporarily serving as the city’s cathedral.

Here are eight reasons to visit the Church of Saint Sulpice in Paris.

Inside the Church of Saint Sulspice. — EQRoy / Shutterstock

1. It’s Not As Crowded As Notre Dame Or Sacre Coeur

Before the fire in April 2019, millions of tourists regularly crowded onto Ile de la Cite, an island in the Seine, to visit Notre Dame. And on any given day, you’ll find throngs of tourists milling about Montmartre and gazing up at the pearly white travertine towers of Sacre Coeur. But visiting the Church of Saint Sulpice feels like an everyday experience. Babies are baptized, priests hear confessions, and Mass is celebrated daily. When you visit the Church of Saint Sulpice, there’s a good chance you won’t see many tourists.

The gnomon in Saint Sulpice. — Sage Scott

2. It’s Home To A Special Sundial

To ensure the church bells rang at the proper time each day, Saint Sulpice priest Jean-Baptiste Languet de Gergy hired English clockmaker Henry Sully to build a special type of sundial into the church in 1728.

On a traditional sundial, the gnomon is the triangular piece that juts out and casts a shadow on the circular face. And embedded into the church floor of Saint Sulpice, a brass line performs a similar time-telling task.

Here’s how it works: When the sun is directly overhead at noon, light shining through a hole in one of the cathedral’s southern stained glass windows casts a small circle of light onto the cathedral floor. And as the Earth orbits the sun, the small circle of light appears in a different spot along the brass line. The sunlight traveling along the gnomon hits an obelisk on the north side of the church on the winter solstice.

Aerial view of Saint Sulpice in Paris. — Michael von Aichberger / Shutterstock

3. It’s Featured In Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code (But Fiction Is Not Fact)

If the equinox-predicting abilities of the gnomon of Saint Sulpice sound vaguely familiar, then you’ve likely read The Da Vinci Code or seen the movie starring Tom Hanks as Professor Robert Langdon. But Dan Brown is a novelist, not a historian. So while the bestselling book featured the gnomon, the device was incorrectly referred to as the Paris Meridian. Brown also gave it a fictional name, the Rose Line.

The Da Vinci Code did result in a dramatic increase in visitors to the church in the early 2000s, as fans trekked away from the usual tourist attractions in the footsteps of Silas, the Opus Dei monk (pure fiction — the real-life Opus Dei organization doesn’t have monks) searching for the Holy Grail. However, it’s been about two decades since the book was published, and tourist traffic to the church has largely died down.

Inside the Church of Saint Sulpice. — maziarz / Shutterstock

4. It Has An Interesting, Eclectic Architectural Style

In part because it was built in fits and starts over more than a century, the Church of Saint Sulpice is truly one of a kind. It features a blend of baroque and neoclassical styles, since the plans were passed from one architect to another over 130 years.

Similarly, the columns supporting the double portico showcase different styles. Look for Doric columns on the main level and Ionic columns on the second-story portico when you visit. And as your eyes continue upward, you’ll likely notice that the south tower was never finished.

5. Its Fountain Of The Four Cardinal Directions Is Impressive

In a prominent location in front of the church is the Fountain of the Four Cardinal Directions. Designed by Louis Visconti, the same Italian architect who designed Napoleon I’s tomb, the fountain is as impressive as it is cheeky.

Water cascades through three octagonal pools on different levels as roaring lions guard the four corners of the center plane. And seated in arched niches facing north, south, east, and west — the cardinal directions — are four notable French bishops. However, despite their dedication to the Church and work as religious scholars, none of the men ascended to the rank of cardinal. Visconti showed his admiration with this tongue-in-cheek nod to their contributions.

The organ inside the Church of Saint Sulpice. — Mark Green / Shutterstock

6. Its Organ Is One Of The Largest And Finest In The World

With its brushed steel pipes surrounded by intricate wood carvings of robed musicians picking at harp strings and strumming lyres, the organ at Saint Sulpice is absolutely breathtaking. Built in 1862, the organ is hailed as the greatest work of Aristide Cavaille-Coll. And, at more than 150 years old, it’s still considered one of the world’s most magnificent instruments.

Each Sunday at 10:45 a.m. sharp, Saint Sulpice organist Daniel Roth breathes life into the 6,600 organ pipes as his toes dance across the wooden floor pedals and his fingertips glide effortlessly across the keyboard. As worshippers file into the cathedral, he plays for the 15 minutes leading up to the 11 a.m. Mass as well as throughout the scheduled service.

Chairs inside the Church of Saint Sulpice. — Sage Scott

7. It Doesn’t Have Pews (And Its Holy Water Fonts Are Quite Unusual)

In the United States, most Catholic churches have rows of wooden pews where parishioners sit during Mass. But in the centuries-old churches of France, worshippers often sit on individual wooden chairs with woven wicker seats.

In churches without pews, there aren’t padded kneelers built into the seating for Catholics to use during the Liturgy of the Eucharist. So French churchgoers will either bring their own kneelers, kneel directly on the tile floor, or remain seated during that part of the Mass.

Also take note of the church’s unusual holy water fonts — giant clamshells — when you visit.

Close-up of a lion on the fountain outside Saint Sulpice. — Sage Scott

8. It Was The Site Of Several Notable Events

In Catholic churches around the world, babies are baptized, couples are married, and families bid farewell to loved ones who’ve passed away, and the same is true of the Church of Saint Sulpice.

For example, the Marquis de Sade was baptized in the Church of Saint Sulpice. (Ironically, the French politician and nobleman would go on to be infamous for his controversial writings and questionable behavior.) Victor Hugo, who wrote Les Miserables and The Hunchback of Notre-Dame, married his childhood sweetheart, Adele Foucher, at Saint Sulpice in 1822. And when the beloved former French president, Jacques Chirac, passed away at the age of 86, dignitaries from around the world attended his funeral Mass at the Church of Saint Sulpice.

Les Deux Magots in Paris. — Petr Kovalenkov / Shutterstock

Attractions Nearby

The Church of Saint Sulpice is away from the popular Paris attractions that hug the Seine, like the Musee d’Orsay and the Eiffel Tower, but there are plenty of worthwhile sights to visit nearby.

Surrounding the Luxembourg Palace, the beautiful Luxembourg Gardens are just a 5-minute walk from the Church of Saint Sulpice.
About a 20-minute walk from the southern edge of the gardens is the macabre Paris Catacombs, where roughly six million Parisians are interred.
A 5-minute walk in the other direction, you’ll find Les Deux Magots, the former haunt of Picasso, Hemingway, and other literary and art legends.

Want to enjoy Paris off the beaten path? Check out these hidden gems, delightful shops, surprising things to do, and lesser-known churches in the city.

Why Blackberry Farm Is The Ultimate Relaxing Weekend Getaway Destination

TravelAwaits is excited to share this account of Lynne Spivey’s Blackberry Farm experiences as we look forward to the publication of Blackberry founder Kreis Beall’s new book, The Great Blue Hills of God, which will be out on February 4, 2020.

For more on the book, read our editor’s review: 5 Reasons Why The New Blackberry Farms Tell-All Is Your Next Vacation Read.

Located in the Tennessee mountains just south of Knoxville, Blackberry Farm in Walland provides a luscious setting for relaxation among breathtaking vistas. The farm’s accommodations are spectacular in an easy-going and comforting, classic American style. From individual cottages with heated floors and large windows facing the peaks and forests to charming farmhouses that can host family gatherings, lodging at the farm, a Relais and Chateaux property, has something for anyone wanting to be pampered.

And the pampering begins with selecting the perfect nest for your stay at the Farm!

A room at Blackberry Farm. — Beall + Thomas Photography / Blackberry Farm

From several differently sized offerings, two options work well for an individual visitor or for a couple: a Historic Room in the farm’s original main house or the Holly Glade Cottage Suite. Either choice is especially convenient for first-time Blackberry visitors as they’ll be staying in close proximity to the staff office, the farm’s shop and transportation hub, and casual dining in the main house.

And the farm staff gets it right when they say guests can “expect a feeling of warmth and coziness as if enjoying a private bedroom at a great country estate,” when they cozy into the Historic Rooms’ lovely, country antique-appointed bedrooms.

Equally as luxurious but offering more space given the addition of a living room looking out on stunning landscapes, a stylish suite in the Holly Glade Cottage enclave is only a few steps down the meandering path to the main house.

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Blackberry Farm Activities

Our favorite farm activities over the years have included visiting the farm’s eye-popping wine cellar, which houses an esteemed international collection, enjoying extraordinary wine and artisanal food product tastings, experimenting (and eating!) at cooking lessons in the demonstration kitchen, and exploring the wondrous grounds of the farm.

Of course, a Blackberry stay means the opportunity to sample all of the region’s gorgeous, locally produced fare! While the farm is well known for its own production of quality products, the culinary staff specializes in showcasing and promoting regional, artisanal foodstuff. You can even load your suitcase with scrumptious examples available in the farm shop for a touch of the farm in your own kitchen! In addition to more casual dining available in the main house, evening dining is across the hill in the big red Barn restaurant.

Known not only for its extensive wine collection and farm-to-table cuisine, Blackberry also offers experiences in fly-fishing, horseback riding, hiking and bicycling, and cooking and organic gardening throughout the year, plus an ever-changing array of entertainment and special events. Spa delights and wellness programs are a popular indulgence for visitors wanting to destress, detoxify, and reenergize.

Beautiful landscape near Blackberry Farm. — Beall + Thomas Photography / Blackberry Farm

For adventures away from the farm, visitors (Texans in particular) might be interested to know that Sam Houston began his trip through history in Tennessee as a teacher and then governor before heading west. A wonderful park in his honor is situated a few miles away from the farm. At different times of the year, the farm’s neighboring towns, including Maryville, host events such as the annual Scottish Festival at Maryville College.

And for those who are hoping to stumble upon Southern roots, are collecting tidbits of history, or are just plain nosy, the surrounding country’s small communities, museums, and roadside markers commemorate the early doings of those hardy souls who moved into eastern Tennessee long ago. The typically narrow, winding mountain road leading into the Blackberry Farm acreage is speckled with traditional country houses, pastures, fields, and quaint churchyards where a visitor might see a familiar name or two!

Great Smoky Mountain National Park is a short drive to the farm’s southeast, with Pigeon Forge, Cades Cove, Clingmans Dome, and Gatlinburg nearby. Plan on enjoying the full mountain cultural experience by soaking in the ethereal beauty of the landscape and the people, who are such an integral part of the true American spirit.

Blackberry Farm on a summer day. — Beall + Thomas Photography / Blackberry Farm

For nearly five decades, the Beall family has welcomed guests to relish the beauty and comfort of Blackberry Farm. As the third generation of Bealls grows along with the farm, visitors can continue to enjoy the majesty of the location, the comfort of the mountain retreat, the gift of great food and drink, the camaraderie of new friends, and the welcoming embrace of a fine Southern home.

On a more personal note, after our son and his wife, along with three of our granddaughters, returned to Houston from a week in the Smoky Mountains during the girls’ spring break from school, our son reflected, “I see why you thought about a place here. It’s wildly beautiful.” This confirmed why our hearts start galloping, almost to the bursting point, any time we travel east of the Big Muddy, and our feet begin to feel the elevation change, climbing our way back toward the waiting arms of our beloved mountains in the Land of Blue Smoke — a name derived from the Cherokee Shaconage (Sha-Kon-A-Hey) meaning: blue, like smoke, which describes the mountains surrounding Blackberry perfectly.

Already dreaming of your Blackberry Farm getaway? Then the new Blackberry Farms tell-all is your next vacation read for these five reasons.

The Best Things To See And Do In Salt Lake City

Salt Lake City has a model town feel and many free attractions courtesy of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS) previously called Mormons, who represent nearly half of the city’s population.

In 1847, Brigham Young led his people on a thousand-mile westward trek to escape persecution, but as soon as he saw the salt plains and mountain ranges, he recognized them as the promised land and halted the wagons. While your reasons for visiting may not be religious, you must experience Salt Lake City; it is a destination that both promises and delivers.

The Temple in Salt Lake City. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

1. Visit Salt Lake City’s Epicenter

Temple Square attracts around 5 million visitors a year. Ramrod-straight, white buildings housing LDS church offices tower to the heavens. Men in telltale white shirts stride through the area on church-related business. The six-spired white temple (built in 1893) is a neo-gothic masterpiece and the symbolic heart of the worldwide LDS church. The landscaped gardens provide color in an otherwise white-on-white world.

Take a free 45-minute tour of Temple Square. Guides are modestly dressed, young female missionaries from all over the world. Tours are available in 40 languages. Guides are open and charming and will attempt to answer your questions about the LDS faith. The visitors center has an interactive guide to the temple’s interior, where the Salt Lake Tabernacle, which Frank Lloyd Wright described as “one of the architectural masterpieces of the country and perhaps the world,” is situated.

Temple Square remains open despite being mid-renovation. The church will host a public open house in 2024 before rededicating the temple, which could provide the chance of a lifetime to see its inside.

Mormon Tabernacle building at Temple Square, Salt Lake City, Utah, home of the Tabernacle Choir — Karin Hildebrand Lau / Shutterstock.com

2. Listen To Angelic Singing

The world-famous Tabernacle Choir performed at the 2002 Winter Olympics and presidential inaugurations from Reagan’s through to Trump’s. Attend free Thursday night rehearsals from 7:30 to 9:30 p.m. Check dates as the 360-member choir is sometimes on tour. Major choir events include the Messiah and Christmas concerts.

There are free events, but they’re so popular that a computer randomly selects ticket recipients from hundreds of thousands of requests. For possible standby seating, line up at Temple Square’s Tabernacle flagpole 90 minutes beforehand.

The Joseph Smith Memorial Building, formerly the Utah Hotel. — TempleSquare.com

3. Tour A Glorious Old Hotel

The lavish Utah Hotel (1911) hosted every U.S. president from William Howard Taft to Ronald Reagan before being renovated to beyond its former glory in the 1980s and rechristened the Joseph Smith Memorial Building in 1993 in honor of the Mormon Church’s founder. Tourists are sometimes so overawed by the lobby, with its commanding staircase, marble columns, and huge crystal chandeliers, that they don’t realize they can enter. But attendants happily explain the history and direct you to the 10th floor for stunning temple views. Or dine with these views at The Roof or The Garden restaurants. The casual Nauvoo Cafe is on the ground floor. Enjoy mocktails, as you won’t find tea, coffee, or alcohol in LDS restaurants. All three restaurants are closed on Sundays.

The Family History Library in Salt Lake City. — VisitSaltLake.com

4. Find Your Roots

The LDS’s Family History Library holds the world’s largest genealogical collection. The first floor discovery center provides interactive activities for the whole family.

Or head to the floor relating to your ancestors, whether they were from the U.S., Canada, the British Isles, Europe, Latin America, Asia, Africa, or Australia.

No appointment necessary. After visiting reception you are paired with an assistant. Have your main search question ready. Within 30 minutes, my trained helper located a Scottish forebear I’d never found myself. They have millions of records from at their disposal, including DOS records.

On a second visit, my new helper was unflagging in her resolution to reconnect me with family members I’d not seen since I was a child, even though I could not remember their surname. She kept searching long after I was ready to give up.

These marvellous LDS helpers rarely hear how their work reunites families, but what I discovered in that single session ended with my meeting relatives on the other side of the world who I’d not seen for 50 years!

The help is free and I was never asked whether I would like to join the Mormon faith.

The Family History building is across from Temple Square, but there are LDS research centers worldwide.

The Beehive House in Salt Lake City. — Sopotnicki / Shutterstock

5. Visit Historic Homes

Beehive House (1854) was Brigham Young’s early home and was crowned with a replica beehive, symbolizing industry. This was Young’s official residence as President of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, and as the first governor of the Utah Territory.

It was also home to some of his family and where he entertained important visitors such as Mark Twain, Susan B. Anthony, and Elizabeth Cady Stanton.

Brigham Young had 55 wives and 59 children. Not all the marriages were conjugal, and not all his wives lived with him. Yet on a tour of Beehive House this history is glossed over. What was the division of labour like with so many wives? Were there tensions?

The church banned polygamy in 1890, but it’s historically interesting. On my guided tour the practice seemed swept under the 19th-century carpets. Free 30-minute tours are offered Monday through Saturday 9 a.m to 9 p.m. starting every 10 minutes.

Next door, Lion’s House (1856) is where many of Young’s wives lived and his family gathered for meals. In LDS communities, there’s an emphasis on hearty fare. Enjoy such a meal at Lion’s House Pantry, a cafeteria where LDS workers gather. Walking in, I saw a party of white-shirted men silhouetted in an alcove against the window, like a scene from The Last Supper. Nourishing foods such as beef and barley soup, baked salmon, meatloaf, chicken pot pie, mashed potatoes, and steamed vegetables are served. The restaurant, which is moderately priced, is famous for its freshly baked dinner rolls and honey butter. It is not open on Sundays.

Inside the Utah State Capitol. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

6. Pack Your Pink Suit

Forget Rocky running up the steps at the Philadelphia Museum of Art: Utah’s State Capitol saw Elle Woods tottering up stairs in Legally Blonde 2 in her hot-pink suit amidst a sea of dark-suited lawyers. Utah’s State Capitol, built in 1916, is a neoclassical masterpiece that underwent one of the U.S’s largest preservation projects between 2004 and 2008. Its towering ceilings and arched windows are reminiscent of the Musee d’Orsay. There are murals, marble floors, domes, frescoes, and grand staircases. Look for beehive symbols throughout and step outside the second-floor rotunda for magnificent views over Salt Lake City.

There’s free entry and parking, or take bus 500 from Temple Square. This route is also walkable, but the museum is over half a mile from Temple Square up a steep hill. It’s open daily, and self-guided and hourly led tours are available.

7. Shopping In Salt Lake City, Utah

City Creek Center

An upmarket mall across the road from Temple Square, and also owned by the LDS, features Louis Vuitton, Nordstrom, and Tiffany stores. The mall’s neoclassical curved arches are reminiscent of the State Capitol, and it has a retractable roof for fine days. A creek runs through the middle, and there are fountains, waterfalls, and kids’ splash pads. It’s a peaceful spot for coffee. Yes, there’s coffee. The best I found was Harmons upstairs.

There’s two-hour free parking (the third hour is free with certain store validations, and this can be useful for visiting Temple Square).

Gardner Village

Built around a historic mill with brick paths, a duck pond, and a covered bridge, Gardner Village’s 22 boutique shops are all about the latest trends in furniture, clothing, and jewelry, and Utah’s famous salt-water taffy (get it at the Chocolate Covered Wagon). Gardner Village is famous for its Halloween-themed WitchFest and is located 12 miles south of downtown Salt Lake City in Salt Lake Valley.

Markets

The Saturday Farmers Market in Pioneer Park sells fresh seasonal food. I’d heard Utah’s sweet corn was good, but these were the sweetest cobs imaginable. The local peaches and berries are legendary. Enjoy the Beehive State’s honey. Stalls are in a square around the park’s perimeter. The market is also great for crafts, baked goods, and food vendors. Open spring and summer.

Kid to Kid

Kid to Kid is now an international chain that sells upscale and trendy preloved kids’ clothing, but it all began in this family-orientated city. Expect lots of scarcely worn garments and great toys, many that are new. This is a great place to outfit grandchildren.

Funeral potatoes from Garage On Beck. — Nadine Cresswell-Myatt

8. Eating In Salt Lake City

Salt Lake City attracts tourists, tech industry professionals, students and academics, and mining engineers with Bingham Canyon Mine, another main attraction. With all these worldly visitors and locals, you can enjoy a hipster-ish food scene during your Salt Lake City exploration. Here are the best restaurants to try.

Eva’s Bakery

Eva’s Bakery transports diners to Paris. Indulge in French cheese plates served with breadbaskets, croissants and soft scrambled eggs with Gruyere, boulangere potatoes, and French toast stuffed with lemon cream cheese. Eva’s is popular for Sunday brunches.

Red Iguana

Red Iguana boasts “killer Mexican food,” and their menu is not Americanized Mexican, but the real amigo. Famous for its mole dishes, the restaurant usually has a hungry line waiting outside. Arriving at 5:30 p.m., we waited, but only 10 minutes. Worried about increasing queues, the owners opened Red Iguana 2 two blocks away. There’s a queue there now! Then they opened Taste of Red Iguana in City Creek Center’s food court, but the experience doesn’t seem as authentic in the ultra-modern space.

Garage On Beck

Here you can enjoy funeral potatoes, a comfort dish of hash-browns, cream of chicken soup, cream cheese, and a coating of cornflakes traditionally served at funerals, in an old auto repair shop converted into a roadside bar — so not an LDS setting. More a scene from Mad Max with corrugated iron and back fence views over smokestacks. But this is a highway dive bar with taste. Their funeral potatoes are shaped into balls and baptized in hot oil. Try the bread pudding made with cream and bourbon and topped with whiskey caramel. Over 21s only.

Coffee

To reassure me Salt Lake City has great coffee, my kids took me to Publik straight from the airport. These three small-batch coffee roasters are where Salt Lake City’s digital nomads hang out all day getting caffeinated. For more than a muffin with your coffee, head to Campos. The decor is industrial chic with indoor plants. The enterprise began in Sydney, and Australians know how to brunch. Try the persimmon and ricotta toast with lemon and rosemary or the smashed avocado on toast with pistachio and pickled citrus.

Drinking

Alcohol is available in bars (with food) and in restaurants, including brewpubs. Liquor is available for purchase almost exclusively from state-run liquor stores (which are not open Sundays). Utah’s drinking laws take some navigating, but Salt Lake City is still worth the stop!

Want to see more of the state? Read up on

9 Tips For Riding Cable Cars In San Francisco

No visit to San Francisco would be complete without a ride on the iconic cable cars. Ride up and down the steep hills of the city, hang on tight as you swing around corners, and take in awesome views of the bay. Feel the wind in your face and listen to the clanging of the bell. Hopping on a cable car is more than a way to get from point A to point B; it’s a fun, multisensory experience.

A National Historic Landmark since 1962, the San Francisco cable cars are both the first of their kind in the world and the last hand-operated cars still running. Andrew Hallidie designed the cable car lines in 1869 after he witnessed an accident involving horses that had been drawing carts on the rain-slicked hills. Hallidie’s invention proved to be a great one for public transportation, and his cars are still running nearly 150 years later.

More than 13 million people ride the cable cars each year, crowding in and hanging on. You’ll want to be strategic about your riding so that you’re not crushed inside, missing the views. Here are some tips to help you make the most of your time on the famous cable cars.

A cable car in San Francisco. — Sharon Odegaard

1. Before You Board, Look At The Three Lines On A Map

The cable cars are an iconic feature of the city, but they only run in certain areas. At their high point, the tracks covered 75 miles. Today, the cable cars cover only about 5 miles of San Francisco. For that reason, I recommend that visitors take a quick look at a map of the route before boarding.

It’s fairly simple to plot out your ride, because each car runs back and forth on one of three routes. You can ride the Powell/Mason and Powell/Hyde lines between the Union Square area and Fisherman’s Wharf. The third line, the California line, runs the other direction (east to west), perpendicular to the Powell lines. It journeys through a financial district and ends up at the other end of the long wharf.

Depending on how long you are visiting and the sights you want to see, you could ride one, two, or all three of the lines. Knowing where the cars go will help you plan.

2. If You Plan To Ride Often, Purchase A Pass

You can pay for one ride at a time with cash or with the MuniMobile app, but individual rides can add up quickly.

If you plan to ride often, a transit pass will save you money. The most popular are the passes for one, three, and seven days and the San Francisco CityPASS, which includes three days of transit and four attractions. These passes cover all cable car rides as well as rides on the city buses and historic streetcars that run along the wharf. You’ll save even more money if you use these on the MuniMobile app rather than having a paper pass.

Pro Tip: You can buy these passes at the Union Square cable car turnaround ticket booth.

The writer boarding a cable car in San Francisco. — Sharon Odegaard

3. Be Strategic About Where You Board

You can board at the turntables at the ends of the Powell lines, or you can wait at any stop along the routes (each stop is marked with a sign). If a car isn’t full, it will stop, and you can hop on. I’ve found that the cars are so often full that it’s easier to head for a turnaround point at Union Square or Fisherman’s Wharf. The line may look intimidating, but the cars run regularly, and you likely won’t have to wait too long.

Pro Tip: The California line tends to be the least busy and is a perfect choice if you want to ride just for fun. The cars on this line are a bit roomier, too. You can catch a ride at any point along this line and end up at the Ferry Building, a great place for a coffee or lunch.

4. Claim Your Place For The Best Ride

You don’t have to sit or stand where you don’t want to. The gripman and brakeman operating the car often tell people to move inside, just to get them boarded and ready for departure. You may feel intimidated by this. But if you want to ride on the outside, either sitting or standing up hanging onto a pole, you have options. I prefer standing on the running board with my arms circling a pole, even in the rain, so I’ve learned some ways to get around the “move inside” instructions.

You can let others in line go ahead of you and wait for the next car. You’ll then be toward the front of the line and can head directly for the space you want to occupy.

If the car is almost full and the only seats are inside, you can get on and move inside. Then as people get off along the way, you can move outside.

At a turnaround, where the car is empty to start with, run around to the side away from the line when you get through the gate. People tend to board on the side by the line for convenience. The car is completely stopped at the turnarounds, so you can go around the back or front without putting yourself in danger. When I say “run,” I’m not kidding. People rush to get a spot on the cable cars!

Pro Tip: On the two Powell lines, the best views of the city and bay are on the right side on the way down to Fisherman’s Wharf and on the left side going up to Union Square.

5. Keep Your Hands And Arms Inside, And Hang On Tight

If you are standing on the running board and hanging onto a pole, be sure to keep leaning into the car rather than out into the street. Your car will encounter cars going the opposite direction, close enough that you could high-five the riders going by. Be careful to stay in your own space.

Even if you are riding inside, you will feel the sharp turns and sudden stops. If you’re standing inside, hang onto the straps hanging from the ceiling to avoid crashing into your fellow passengers.

Pro Tip: If you have a backpack, wear it in front or give it to someone sitting down to hold for you.

6. Speak Up To Get Off

The cars may or may not stop at a particular street. If you want to get off, tell the gripman about a block before the stop. He is right in the middle of the car, so this is easy to do. Wait for the car to make a complete stop before stepping out. Also, watch for traffic as you exit. Sometimes the cars stop in the middle of the street rather than at a curb.

The Cable Car Museum in San Francisco. — Sharon Odegaard

7. Understand How The Cable Cars Work

The cable running under the street never stops. It moves constantly at 9 miles per hour. The gripman uses a pincher contraption in the middle of the car to hook onto the underground cable. Then the cable pulls the car, and off you go!

Letting go of the cable allows the car to glide to a stop, but there are also three brakes to halt the cars, a great safety feature. The brakeman works along with the gripman to drive. Cars share the streets with the cable cars, and pedestrians tend to dart out from all directions, so good brakes are crucial.

8. Hop Off At The Cable Car Museum To See The Cables In Action

The San Francisco Cable Car Museum houses the huge cables that run the three lines. The cables run nonstop over 8-foot pulleys turned by gears. The power is now electric, though originally it was driven by a steam engine. The cables disappear underneath the ground as they head out to the streets. The noise in the room is deafening.

Pro Tip: Board either of the Powell lines, which both go right by the Cable Car Museum. Tell the gripman you want to get off, and then spend a half-hour or so enjoying the antique cars and displays as well as watching the cables turn.

9. Interact With The Gripman And Brakeman

The gripman and brakeman can make the ride really fun. I’ve encountered grumpy ones, but in general they add joy to the experience.

One brakeman sang us all a rhymed travelogue of the city. One gripman had us chanting the names of the kids on the car as he rang the bell: “Nico, Nico, Nico” (ring-ring, ring-ring, ring-ring). Another brakeman let me stand in the back to take photos. Then he called my husband back and told him to hang on to me. “Okay, we’re coming to a sharp turn and then a steep hill. Ready? Let go and hang over the edge and take pictures!” This was certainly not prudent, but you only live once, right? And another had us all jumping up and down as we rounded a corner. I’m not sure that was safe, but our car was filled with laughter.

Pro Tip: Many of your fellow riders are also in the city on vacation — in short, you’re all there to have fun! So, don’t be afraid to interact with and banter with others. One woman offered to catch my grandson if he started to fall from the running board, and we immediately became friends. Smile and chat, and your ride will be even more memorable.

Cable car rides are a highlight of any trip to San Francisco, and a little planning will enhance your experience. You’ll be an expert rider in no time!