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Exploring Beautiful Provincetown: A Perfect Winter Weekend Getaway

Exploring Beautiful Provincetown: A Perfect Winter Weekend Getaway

Provincetown always feels like the end of the world by the time you drive to the tip of Cape Cod in Massachusetts — and that impression is multiplied in the winter. The two-lane highway is packed with traffic in the high season but is dramatically empty as you pass the Province Lands beaches at this time of year.

When I first began to visit Provincetown in 1967, lured by stories of the town’s charms and celebratory live-and-let-live vibe, the season was basically just July and August. Since then, it has expanded to encompass April through October, with the high season summer months hosting some 50,000 visitors. After autumn, the year-round population (less than 3,000) is joined by die-hard fans who appreciate the many pleasures of the off-season.

A Capsule History Of Provincetown

First explored in 1602, by the mid-1700s, Provincetown was an established fishing village and eventually a busy port. In the following century, the town became a magnet for Portuguese fishermen and their families, and in the 20th century a center for creative people, intellectuals, and self-styled bohemians. Provincetown attracted a population of hippies and other free spirits in the 1960s and 1970s. Always welcoming to gay writers and artists, Provincetown grew to become an LGBTQ mecca, one in which anyone could feel comfortable and accepted, from drag queens to artists and writers, straight and gay families to hikers, bikers, and bird watchers.

Sunset over a beach in Provincetown.

Barbara Winard

4 Reasons To Visit Provincetown In The Winter

1. To Walk Or Bike The Beaches

Race Point and Herring Cove (called the Province Lands beaches), part of the Cape Cod National Seashore, are within a five-minute bike ride from town. You can soak up the winter sun and walk on pristine beaches with glorious views. Winters can (sometimes) be fairly mild — although often windy — with daily temperatures sometimes reaching as high as 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. To Soak Up History At Every Corner

Most Provincetonians believe that Provincetown Harbor was where the pilgrims on the Mayflower first landed in 1620, even before they made it to Plymouth Rock. There are many other places to visit that reflect the area’s history.

Rolf_52 / Shutterstock

3. To Wander Down Commercial Street

This is the perfect walking street for any season: Completely flat (some parts with sidewalks, some not) and lined with shops, the main drag provides lovely views of the bay between all the buildings.

4. To Avoid The Crowds Of Summer

This is when the hidden beauties of the area are found, with deserted beaches and dramatic dunes and cobalt blue skies. You can park on MacMillan Wharf without a wait. You can walk down the sidewalks without jockeying for position. You can get into restaurants. You can sit on a bench on Commercial Street and chat with townies passing by.

Other Things To Do In Provincetown

1. Walk The Breakwater

While the two beaches near Provincetown are great to wander, you can walk to the east end of Commercial Street to encounter the breakwater, a mile-long stretch of granite blocks. Make sure that you wear good walking shoes — the rocks can get slippery. And make extra sure that you finish your walk before high tide.

The Provincetown Art Association and Museum (PAAM).
EQRoy / Shutterstock.com

2. Enjoy Indoor Activities At The Provincetown Art Association And Museum

This is where rotating exhibits offer works from the center’s 3,000-plus item permanent collection. Other places to visit for a taste of the town’s long arts history are the Provincetown Theater, the Provincetown Public Library, and a host of galleries (some of which are open in the winter; call to make an appointment). The Fine Arts Work Center is a non-profit program for visual artists and writers.

3. Visit The Pilgrim Monument And Provincetown Museum

If you arrive at dusk or at night during the winter, you can’t miss it! The 252-foot monument (completed in 1910) most resembles a gigantic Christmas tree or a spaceship. Every year, during the holidays, the monument is festooned with more than 3,100 “landing lights” that shine nightly through January 6 of the following year. The Provincetown Museum is housed in the base of the monument and maintains exhibits about Provincetown’s role in American history. Note that the monument has 116 steps. Those who make it to the top will have a 360-degree panoramic view across the tip of Cape Cod.

Where To Eat In Provincetown

About 20 or so restaurants stay open all year round. Since the number of places is considerably smaller than in other seasons, you may need reservations.

Chach

A bit outside of town (on Shank Painter Road), cozy Chach is a great place for breakfast or brunch, with great Mexican specials.

All the following restaurants are either on or just off Commercial Street:

Canteen

In winter there are several holiday markets at the Canteen (check online for dates). This casual gathering place is also popular for New Year’s Eve food and fireworks.

Napi’s Restaurant

Napi’s is a fairyland during the winter season, with strings of lights, artwork, and a crackling fireplace. Make sure you have reservations for Christmas dinner.

Squealing Pig

Open for New Year’s but closed for the rest of January, the Squealing Pig is a cozy bar and restaurant with fried fish, oysters, Guinness, and more.

Wired Puppy

Wired Puppy cafe is open year-round. I love to sit on the bench outside early in the morning, drink restorative coffee, and greet dogs and their owners.

High-End Dining

The following three restaurants are a bit more expensive and great for special occasions in the winter: Ciro and Sal’s, Fanizzi’s Restaurant by the Sea, and The Mews Restaurant and Cafe.

Shops in Provincetown.
Charles Lewis / Shutterstock.com

Where To Shop In Provincetown

Commercial Street is lined with shops, only some of which are open all winter. Others have limited and/or weekend hours, so best to check. Here are my favorites:

Marine Specialties

A Provincetown landmark, Marine Specialties houses an eclectic collection of salvage, surplus, closeouts, overruns, odd lots, and new and nearly-new items that you never knew you needed.

Womencrafts

One of Provincetown’s oldest shops, Womencrafts promotes the work of female artisans, authors, and musicians.

Two Jewelry Stores Conveniently Across The Street From Each Other

Visit Exuma, which sells fine jewelry (open mostly on weekends), and Zinnia, for a wide variety of pieces of all prices.

The Provincetown Fudge Factory

Next to Zinnia, the Provincetown Fudge Factory is open for much of the winter for a fast sugar rush.

Puzzle Me This

Open most weekends in the winter, Puzzle Me This is a treasure trove of games and puzzles for adults and children — and good to visit pre-blizzard in order to stock up.

Himalayan Handicrafts

Himalayan Handicrafts features Tibetan and Nepalese clothing, jewelry, and more. Check on winter hours and make sure that you chat with the lovely proprietor, Chhomo.

Paws And Whiskers Dog Bakery

Paws and Whiskers offers pet supplies galore for a completely pet-friendly town.

Where To Stay In Provincetown

It’s always a treat to be able to stay in places in the depths of the winter that you might not be able to afford during high season. My daughter stayed at Seaglass Inn and Spa during a cold December; it was comparatively inexpensive and pretty luxe for her.

Crowne Pointe Historic Inn And Spa

Crowne Pointe Historic Inn And Spa is a 35-room, four-star spa hotel located on a bluff overlooking the town.

Provincetown Inn

A large (102-room) hotel on the tip of the West End, the Provincetown Inn is steps from the breakwater.

Anchor Inn Beach House

Anchor Inn Beach House is right on the beach and within walking distance of everything; a full breakfast is included.

Benchmark Inn

Benchmark Inn is a small bed and breakfast with six rooms that offers a full breakfast.

Revere Guesthouse

Revere Guesthouse is a restored 19th-century sea captain’s home with private gardens.

Airbnb

A number of comfortable Provincetown places are available throughout the winter.

Tips For Enjoying Winter In Provincetown

Polar Bear Plunge

If you’ll be in Provincetown on New Year’s Day, don’t miss the Polar Bear Plunge, on the beach a few blocks west of MacMillan wharf. This annual tradition is part of Provincetown’s First Light celebrations. If you don’t want to actually participate in the group freeze, there will also be a DJ, music, and hot drinks.

Birding In Wellfleet and Eastham

Check out the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary (about 20 minutes from Provincetown) and the Salt Pond Visitor Center in Eastham (about 30 minutes away). Snow buntings, horned larks, sea ducks, loons, and snowy owls flock to both of these locations during the winter.

Busy planning your Massachusetts getaway? Read up on the seven best experiences on the Cape Cod National Seashore.

Planning a New England getaway? Check out our picks for hotels in Nantucket before your next Massachusetts vacation.

15 Best Stops On The Cajun Boudin Trail

I first tasted boudin during a visit to see my sister, who lived in Louisiana at the time. There are variations, but at its most basic, boudin is a combination of pork, rice, and seasonings ground together and stuffed into a pork casing that is then steamed to eat on the spot. The classic way to eat this bayou staple is straight from the casing; just place it in your mouth and suck out the filling, like squeezing toothpaste out of a tube. After sampling a variety of boudin, we returned home to Kansas City and asked my sister to ship us more. So when I was invited to Lake Charles, Louisiana, on a press visit, I knew I wanted to try more of this favorite Cajun snack food.

When Acadians settled in southwest Louisiana, they brought along their Cajun culture and traditions, including boudin. The food originated from the boucherie, a Cajun event where friends and families gathered to slaughter a pig for the winter and found ways to utilize the whole hog. It’s a local obsession, and you’ll find boudin in restaurants, grocery stores, butcher shops, gas stations, and convenience shops. To help boundin-seekers on their journey, there’s a Cajun Boudin Trail highlighting some of the best stops in the state.

Below, I’ll lay out a boudin trail that starts in Vinton and heads east to Lafayette Parish, with stops in between. This is a combination of the Southwest Louisiana Boudin Trail and the Cajun Boudin Trail. There are too many places to mention them all, so I’ve broken this list down by city and the particular type of boudin the venue sells. Because there isn’t just one type of boudin: There’s boudin blanc, boudin rouge, crawfish boudin, shrimp boudin, hot boudin, mild boudin, and smoked boudin.

Boudin blanc is what you’ll find at most stores — a traditional pork and rice dressing, like dirty rice. When the pork blood is included in the mix, the result is boudin rouge. The smoked, hot, and mild versions reflect the level of spice and flavor. In crawfish or shrimp boudin, seafood replaces the pork in the filling.

Although the recipe typically consists of pork, rice, and seasonings, each cook tweaks the recipe with unique flavors and ingredients — many add liver, heart, gizzard, peppers, or onion to the mix. There are also a myriad of ways to serve boudin. In addition to eating it right from the casing as a snack, it’s great sliced, grilled, fried, and served in creole, gumbo, or etouffe recipes, plus many chefs get creative with innovative incarnations such as boudin balls, stuffed mushrooms, boudin dip, and even using boudin as stuffing inside of turkeys.

Vinton

Start the boudin trail in the small town of Vinton, at Stop 1, Market Basket #26. This grocery store has a smokehouse preparing regular and smoked boudin. Their recipe for both sausage and boudin starts with top-quality pork shoulders. They cook and steam the rice so it has the perfect texture for boudin. The smoked jalapeno boudin is hot and savory.

While you’re in Vinton, be sure to try the boudin at Stop 2, Comeaux’s Restaurant. They serve fresh boudin, cracklins (whereas pork rinds are pork skin, cracklins include the skin and a layer of fat beneath it), and sausage made in house. At least one reviewer claims Comeaux’s serves the “best boudin balls ever.”

Sulphur

Head east 13 miles to the city of Sulphur, where you’ll find Stop 3, B&O Kitchen and Grocery. In addition to boudin, they serve cracklins, beef jerky, pork tasso, hog head cheese, turduckens, and other Cajun specialties.

Lake Charles

Another 10 miles east and you’ll be in Lake Charles, where Hackett’s Cajun Kitchen, Stop 4, serves a multitude of boudin flavors including spicy, crawfish, jalapeno, smoked regular, smoked jalapeno, shrimp, gator, and boudin balls. In business for 28 years, Hackett’s has been voted best boudin, best plate lunches, and best cracklins for several years running by both The Times and Lagniappe Magazine.

Also in Lake Charles, Stop 5, Lebleu’s Landing, serves Cajun cuisine and has a full-service meat market with a viewing area where you can watch as they make boudin. There’s a variety of specialty products for sale as well as plenty of flavors of boudin. In the restaurant, order the boudin mild or spicy, or try one of the deep-fried boudin balls — boudin filling shaped into balls, rolled in their secret breading, and then fried crispy — or the award-winning bacon-wrapped boudin.

Lake Charles is filled with boudin restaurants and markets, so get some boudin to go at Stop 6, Sonnier’s Boudin, a full-service meat market that serves meats, boudin, and sausage.

Moss Bluff

Head north from Lake Charles to find Peto’s Meat Market, Stop 7, in Moss Bluff. They serve what’s been voted the best boudin for eight years in a row by Lagniappe Magazine. Try it steamed or smoked. One reviewer says he drives from Texas every three months to stock up on cracklins and boudin from Peto’s Meat Market.

Iowa

At Stop 8, In-Laws Cajun Specialities, about 16 miles from Moss Bluff, you’ll find authentic boudin, cracklins, sausage, barbecue, and specialty meats. In addition to regular boudin, regular smoked boudin, smoked pepper jack boudin, plus boudin balls, pepper jack boudin balls, and pepper jack boudin rolls, they serve a delicious crawfish boudin roll. Another creative way they serve boudin is by placing the filling on puff pastry that is rolled, baked, and cut into fluffy, flaky pinwheels.

Duson

Go east to visit Duson, home to Stop 9, Mike’s Country Corner. Considered by many to have the best boudin balls in the state, the filling is a closely guarded boudin recipe. For something out of the ordinary, try the boudin pie, a pastry pie crust filled with boudin and topped with creamy sweet potatoes and crunchy pecans.

Johnson's Boucaniere, a restaurant in Lafayette, LA.

Stephanie A Sellers / Shutterstock

Lafayette

In business for more than 50 years, Guidroz Food Center, Stop 10, boasts “boudin with an attitude.” One reviewer on Facebook says the pepper jack boudin balls are the best ever. Another says that Guidroz is the best-kept boudin secret, and that they truly do have attitude as she can only handle the spiciness of the mild boudin!

Also in Lafayette, Stop 11, Johnson’s Boucaniere, whose name comes from the Cajun French word meaning smokehouse, is a bustling business in the center of the city. In the 1940s, the Johnson family became famous for their smoked sausages and boudin. In addition to boudin, the restaurant is known for its smoked pulled pork and brisket sandwiches.

Alexander’s Specialty Meats, Stop 12, is a Louisiana family tradition that serves boudin and other meats and sausages. Other home-style specialties are popular too. One reviewer on Facebook said the chicken stew, Cowboy Stew (beef tripe, heart, and kidney), and oxtail strew are all delicious and to visit Alexander’s for food like grandma used to make.

Lafayette celebrates its boudin heritage each year with the Boudin & Bacon Cook-Off, Stop 13, held in October where the top boudiniers come together to show off their skills. Some of the festivities include sampling the boudin and bacon entries followed by a poll for People’s Choice, a boudin-ball-eating contest billed as the only one in the state, live music, a boudin and bacon eating contest, plus a sampling of a 225-pound pig stuffed with bacon and cooked in a Cajun microwave (a cypress roasting box designed to cook large pieces of meat).

Scott

Our suggested boudin trail ends five miles further east in Scott. First up: Billy’s Homemade Boudin and Cracklins, Stop 14. For a warm and savory lunch, try Billy’s Boudin Pistolette, a stuffed bread pocket sandwich. Or opt for the pepper jack boudin balls — crispy breaded and fried coating surrounds boudin filling with pepper jack cheese in the center.

At Don’s Specialty Meats, Stop 15, you can try what’s been voted best boudin in Acadiana for nine years. Don’s serves homemade boudin links, balls, burritos, pistolettes, tots, seafood, and sampler packs. Between their two locations, Don’s sells more than 700,000 pounds of boudin each year. The boudin tater tots and burritos are just two of their unique boudin-serving incarnations. Their pistolette contains homemade pork boudin stuffed in a fresh pistolette bread that’s served either baked or fried.

Take To The Boudin Trail!

Venture throughout Southwestern Louisiana and Lafayette Parish to find award-winning boudin and wonderful varieties of ways to serve it. To learn about more places along the trail, see the Southwest Louisiana Boudin Trail’s downloadable brochure, or check out the Lafayette Parish Cajun Boudin Trail.

Also read up on the best places to try local cuisine in New Orleans.

Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta: 9 Tips For A Fantastic Experience

Every October, hundreds of colorful balloons dot the sky over Albuquerque, New Mexico. Starting with just 13 balloons in the early 1970s, the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta is now the largest balloon event in the world.

Attending the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta is truly a bucket-list item. Here are a few ways to ensure you get the most out of this spectacular experience.

1. Familiarize Yourself With The Schedule Beforehand

The festival lasts nine days during the first week of October and consists of 14 sessions. On weekdays, there is only one session in the morning. On busier days, there are two sessions — a morning session and an evening session. Each session costs $15 (it’s free for those 12 and under), and you must pay for each session you attend.

Since each day is different, be sure to download the event schedule beforehand to plan out your time. Typically the weekends — which host the most popular mass ascension, balloon glow, and dawn patrol events — are the busiest.

One weekend during the festival is the Music Fiesta — a concert with several performances running from early afternoon into the evening. This is a separate ticketed event that costs $10 for general admission all the way up to $499 for the Ultimate Music Fiesta Package.

The Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta in New Mexico.

Paulette Janus / Shutterstock

2. Plan On Spending More Than One Day There

You should definitely plan on attending the festival for more than one day. This is because some of the events may be canceled or delayed due to weather. While your tickets are nonrefundable, they can be used for another session, so make sure to keep all your tickets!

If you plan on going for three days, and you get great weather each day, consider yourself lucky! With nearly 500 balloons participating, there is no way you can walk around and see them all during one session.

3. Understand The Parking Situation

Knowing how to get to the park is a key factor in getting the most out of your experience. There is a parking lot at the field, but spots are limited and available on a first-come, first-served basis. Spots here cost $20 (cash only).

There are four off-site parking lots around the city that offer shuttle service to the park. The Park & Ride tickets cost $22 for adults and $20 for seniors and include round-trip transportation, as well as admission to the session. You must buy these tickets in advance online; there are no in-person sales.

The shuttles begin running at 4 a.m. for morning sessions and 3 p.m. for evening sessions. When you leave the park after each session, you will go to a designated stand to board the bus back to the parking lot. The buses do run regularly after each session ends, but it’s important to know that the last half hour the buses run (12 p.m. to 12:30 p.m. for morning sessions and 9:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. for evening sessions), there are fewer buses, so your bus will stop at all the parking lots. This can take some time, so I’d recommend getting on a bus earlier rather than later.

If weather cancels any of the sessions, you will not be able to reuse your bus ticket. You will need to go online and buy a bus-only ticket for the next session you want to attend. (As discussed earlier, you can reuse your festival admission ticket for entrance into the park.)

The balloon festival does partner with a few area hotels to offer discounted balloon festival packages. Some of the hotels offer discounted rates, while others also offer transportation. The deals change yearly — this page has the most updated hotel information.

Perhaps the best way to avoid the traffic and parking hassle altogether is to bike to the event! There is a free bike valet located just north of the Balloon Museum. Refer to the city’s bike maps to plan your route to the festival.

Balloons in the air at the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta.

Amy Sward

4. Get A Very Early Start

Trust me on this one — getting up and out early is key to experiencing the morning sessions. Getting to the park around 4 a.m., so you’re there for the opening at 4:30 a.m., is your best bet. This is especially true if you want to park at the field. You don’t want to get stuck in a huge traffic jam either trying to get in or trying to get out if the lot is full. If you are parking at an off-site lot, the shuttles start running at 4 a.m., and you will see people already in line for the shuttle earlier than that!

Pro Tip: Consider using your (early) time inside the park to grab the highly recommended breakfast burrito and local coffee.

5. Choose Your Accommodations With Parking In Mind

Because you will need to get such an early start, it’s best to plan your hotel stay with your parking choice in mind. If you really want to get a spot at the field, then you’ll probably want to stay as close as you can to the festival grounds. If you’d prefer to park at one of the off-site lots, then take a look at the balloon festival lodging link to see what hotels are nearby. The last thing you want is to book a hotel on one side of town and a parking lot on the other side — that would be a waste of your time.

The Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta in New Mexico.

photoBeard / Shutterstock

6. Consider Alternative Lodging

There are a variety of RV sites available next to the festival grounds. RV sites range from $40 for standard, dry camping to $95 for premium spots with water hookups. There are VIP spots for $100 that include two general admission passes. For $250, you’ll get a spot at the President’s Compound overlooking the field plus water and electrical hookups and four passes.

Why not try glamping at the festival? These specialty tents are within walking distance of the launch field (no traffic!) and have access to bathroom and shower trailers. The glamping tents will run you $1,500 for three nights, but they include passes to all the sessions during your stay, plus a heater, fridge, electric blanket, lamp, lantern, and welcome gift.

7. Reserve Your Accommodations Early

Since this is such a big event for Albuquerque, all the lodging will fill up quickly. It’s best to map out your parking and lodging plan as early as possible. If you are planning to stay at a hotel, be prepared to pay a premium, and be sure to check the cancellation policy should your plans change.

If you plan to use one of the RV sites, you must make your reservation early. The RV reservations open every year nine days after the festival ends, so set a calendar reminder. These spots fill up fast, and the waiting list does cap out. The glamping tents are limited in number, so they will also get snatched up early.

The Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta in New Mexico.

Amy Sward

8. Consider Upgrading

These tickets cost extra money, but the extra perks (including private bathrooms!) they come with may be worth it to you. As you read this, keep in mind that these prices are per session.

The least expensive option is the Chasers Club. This $60 ticket will get you guaranteed seating with a view of the launch field, a catered meal, access to those private bathrooms, and access to a cash bar. It does not include parking.

Next up is the Gondola Club for $125 per session. This ticket includes parking in the nearby gondola lot, as well as a shuttle to your private viewing area. It also includes a catered meal and an open bar, plus a lapel pin, souvenir gift, and live entertainment during the evening sessions.

The top-of-the-line VIP experience is the Concierge Program, running $350 per session. That price covers two people, you can add up to two more people for $50 each. This service gets you premium parking, a golf cart with a driver to take you all around the park, and a personal concierge. This would be the package to splurge on if you have mobility issues or if you want to pack in a ton during one session.

9. Prepare For The Weather

The weather in New Mexico in early October is typically perfect for being outdoors, but dress in layers. Keep in mind that for morning sessions, you will be getting to the park before sunrise, so it will be chilly. The afternoons are warmer but will cool off as soon as the sun goes down.

Also know that the field is grassy, but manageable. The area around the concession stands is packed down, but can be uneven. Sturdy shoes are advisable.

Planning a visit to Albuquerque? Consider these day trips.

Anne Frank House: 7 Reasons You Should Visit

A visit to the Anne Frank House is a must if you are in Amsterdam. The house is where the young Anne Frank, her family, and four others went into hiding during World War II. Today, you can tour the huis, which was an office with an annex. Anne’s father, Otto Frank, ran his company here. He dealt in products such as pectin, herbs, and spices. The office included a laboratory for experimenting with fruit jams.

When conditions in Nazi-occupied Amsterdam worsened, Otto ushered his family into hiding, using the annex at the back of his warehouse. The area was only about 500 square feet. They went into hiding on June 12, 1942, just a few days after Anne turned 13. They stayed there day and night, week after week, month after month, and year after year until their arrest on August 4, 1944. Imagine a teenager confined to a small, indoor space and having no privacy as she grew into a young woman. In the annex, Anne wrote down her experiences in her diary, not knowing that her words would one day be read around the world.

Here are just a few reasons to follow in Anne’s footsteps through the office, up the stairs, around the secret bookcase door, and into the confines of the Anne Frank House.

Statue of Anne Frank in front of the Anne Frank House.

ItzaVU / Shutterstock

1. You’ll Learn How It’s Possible To Adapt To Change — Even Radical Change

One day the Frank family lived in Amsterdam just as those around them — going to work and school, shopping at the market, riding bikes, laughing with friends. The next day, they hurried into the annex with a few possessions. The door to the outside shut, and they found themselves in a new environment. Another family moved in with them, as well as a single older man.

We know from Anne’s diary that they all came up with a schedule for bathroom use, cooking, and school studies for the children. No one curled up in a ball on the bed and gave up. They certainly had their struggles and frustrations, but they adapted.

These people left an example for us all. Next time I’m faced with an upsetting circumstance, I can choose to adapt and carry on.

Anne Frank's diary on display at the International Book Fair
Anne Frank’s diary (Photo Credit: GUILLERMO LEGARIA/AFP via Getty Images)

2. You’ll Get To See Anne’s Famous Diary

Anne found herself isolated suddenly, away from her girlfriends. At age 13, this must have been especially hard. But we all need friends to confide in, and sometimes that might even be a journal rather than a person. Anne asked for a diary as a gift for her 13th birthday. It’s said that she even helped choose it. She grabbed her new red plaid book as she rushed into hiding.

Eventually, her diary would hold her questions and frustrations and dreams — including her goal to become a writer. Her first entry: “I hope I will be able to confide everything to you, as I have never been able to confide in anyone, and I hope you will be a great source of comfort and support.” Many of her entries are addressed to her imaginary friend, Kitty. No doubt, Kitty and her diary helped Anne through the daily slog of life in the annex.

At the Anne Frank House, the complete surviving manuscript of Anne’s diary is on display.

3. You’ll Hear Inspiring Stories Of How People Risked Their Lives To Help The Franks

There were soon eight people sequestered in the annex, and food and supplies needed to come from outside. Employees from Otto’s business stepped in to help, knowing that they risked their own lives. These helpers did more than just deliver food.

One story involves the annex’s revolving bookcase. The entrance to the annex was simply a door at the beginning. Friends grew concerned that the Germans who occupied the city might come knocking and enter the warehouse. They would certainly go through the door and discover those in hiding. Helpers Victor Kugler and Bep and Johan Voskuijl came up with a plan. They designed and built a revolving bookcase to mask the door. When helpers needed to deliver goods, they would use the lever and swing the bookcase so that they could go through the hidden door.

Two times the Germans entered the warehouse, but missed the annex door. Anne wrote of them rattling the bookcase. She thought her family was “lost.” But the Germans left without discovering the secret.

Inside the Anne Frank House.

GiuseppeCrimeni / Shutterstock

4. You’ll Be Moved By Anne’s Resilience

Nature helped Anne focus on the positive. When you tour the Anne Frank House, you will see firsthand the view that Anne saw from the attic window. The other windows were covered to keep the people inside hidden, and the attic window was the only place where they could see the outside.

Anne wrote that she loved to spend time in the attic, which was used for storage. She could be alone there, and she could gaze out the window. She looked out on a chestnut tree and the sky.

Her window’s view, though limited, helped sustain her spirit. She wrote, “As long as this still exists, and I am allowed to experience it, this sunshine, that sky without a cloud in sight, for as long as that, I cannot be sad.”

5. You’ll See Firsthand That Possessions Are Not What Is Most Important

One memorable item that you’ll see in the annex is Peter’s bicycle. Peter, the son of the other family in the annex, was a few years older than Anne. He brought along the bike, but of course he never took it back out to enjoy a ride. Peter’s parents decided to try to sell the bike, and it is still wrapped up for that purpose. That plan didn’t work out, and the bicycle still sits in its place under the stairway.

So much of what these families owned turned out to be of no use to them in their new lives. The value of a possession can change overnight. Fortunately for us, Anne hung on to her diary, the one possession that would have a lasting impact on the world.

The Amsterdam neighborhood where Anne Frank's House is located.

Harry Beugelink / Shutterstock

6. You Can Easily Imagine Anne’s Life In Amsterdam

After you tour the Anne Frank House, take some time to walk the neighborhood. The canals and bridges, lined with clusters of bicycles, look much the same as they did in the 1940s. With buildings dating back hundreds of years and leafy trees out front, not much has changed. You can easily imagine a young Anne here.

When Anne was four, her family moved from Germany to Amsterdam. This is where she played with her friends, went to school, and attended family gatherings. We know the most about her life in hiding because that’s what she wrote about, but it’s moving to think that she lived a normal life right here on these quaint streets of Amsterdam. How the teenage Anne would have loved to have spent even one day of freedom here!

The Anne Frank House in Amsterdam.

Jeff Whyte / Shutterstock

7. You’ll Leave With A Sense Of Hope

When you visit the Anne Frank House, you’ll stand in her bedroom. Her magazine pictures and postcards of movie stars still decorate the walls. The tiny desk where she wrote her diary entries looks like any other teen’s desk. Here she studied French, German, algebra, and history to prepare herself for her adult years. Anne dreamed of a happy life and a bright future, maybe as a writer.

Here, in the small rooms of the annex, you’ll understand more deeply than before what can happen when hate triumphs over kindness and love. It’s one thing to hear statistics of how many died or suffered in World War II; it’s another to be in the house where one family — and one intelligent, emotional young lady — spent the last months of their lives.

But you’ll also experience the hope that insists on showing up even in the darkest of days. Anne wrote, “Despite everything, I believe that people are really good at heart.”

Anne’s father alone survived the war. Anne and her sister died at the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp shortly before liberation. Helpers Miep Gies and Bep Voskuijl scooped up Anne’s diary and notebook pages after her arrest and kept them safe.

When Otto Frank decided to publish the diary, he wrote, “We cannot change what happened anymore. The only thing we can do is to learn from the past and realize what discrimination and the persecution of innocent people mean.”

Anne’s words live on, reaching from her small hiding place to inspire countless readers. A visit to the Anne Frank House will certainly inspire you and remain on your mind long afterward.

What To Know Before You Go

If you can, purchase tickets before you arrive in Amsterdam, though some may be available on the day of your visit. Check the museum’s website for more information.

Choose a time in the early morning for your visit. People enter in timed groups, but as visitors linger in the annex, it gets more and more congested. If you can be in one of the first few groups, you can see the rooms without fighting the crowds.

To reach the annex, you’ll need to climb a few steep stairs. There’s no wheelchair access, as the annex is configured just as it was when the families hid there.

A museum, gift shop, and cafe occupy the downstairs office area. No photographs are permitted in the Anne Frank House.

The museum website offers an excellent virtual tour of the Anne Frank House along with historical background and information.

For more on Amsterdam, see this page.

San Francisco’s Chinatown: 12 Things To Know Before You Go

The first Chinese immigrants arrived in San Francisco in 1848 aboard the USS Eagle. As the population grew — some 30,000 Chinese came to the city in pursuit of riches during the California Gold Rush — many immigrants established businesses in what became known as Chinatown. Located in the historic heart of San Francisco, the approximately 24-block area is a city within a city that constantly changes to reflect new waves of immigrants and their customs.

The urban area is densely populated. There are approximately 15,000 residents in Chinatown — it’s the second-largest Chinese-American community in the country. On a walking tour with Linda Lee of All About Chinatown, we stopped at Portsmouth Square, where Lee pointed out the clusters of predominantly men gathered together. She said there are more men than women in Chinatown, that the average age is 50, and that they came from China, Hong Kong, or Southeast Asia to Chinatown to live and work.

The culture is rich, and the neighborhood is colorful and beautiful. You’ll see flags and buildings, hear shoppers searching the markets for fresh meat and produce, and smell delicious dishes being prepared in local restaurants.

Here are 12 things to know about San Francisco’s Chinatown before you go.

1. The Chinese Historical Society Of America Museum Is Worth Your Time

The Chinese Historical Society of America Museum is a rich storehouse of Chinese-American history and culture in San Francisco. It’s the oldest organization in the country dedicated to the interpretation, promotion, and preservation of the social, cultural, and political history and contributions of the Chinese in America.

There were fewer than 250,000 people of Chinese descent living in the U.S. when the society was founded in 1963. Now there are nearly five million Chinese in the U.S., the society continues to preserve the remarkable history of this community by promoting the contributions and legacy of the Chinese through exhibitions, publications, and educational programs.

Visitors to Chinatown can tour the museum and the surrounding area to learn more about the community.

2. The Chinese Culture Center Showcases Contemporary Art

The mission of the Chinese Culture Center of San Francisco, located inside the Hilton across from Portsmouth Square, is to give voice to the Chinese-American community through education and contemporary art. The center shares innovative contemporary art through exhibitions, performances, tours, and online projects; facilitates community engagement at the Him Mark Lai Learning Center, which highlights Chinese-American history and culture; and strives to make Chinatown a museum without walls by using public spaces for festivals and art installations.

Since 1965, the group has hosted hundreds of exhibitions and public events to raise awareness of Chinese culture.

Pat Chuturbhuti / Shutterstock

3. The Alleys Are Less Touristy

Step off the main streets of Chinatown to discover the daily life and rich history of this area. Chinatown Alleyway Tours offers guided tours focused on the struggles and triumphs of the Chinese-American community. The youth-run nonprofit program is sponsored by the Adopt-An-Alleyway Youth Empowerment Project by the Chinatown Community Development Center. The tours empower youth to take leadership roles in the community, and tour participants will learn about the history and culture of Chinatown from a local’s perspective.

4. Firecrackers Are Illegal In San Francisco

Traditionally, firecrackers were used to scare away evil spirits in Chinese culture. Legend had it that a monster called Nian would eat villagers and destroy their homes on New Year’s Eve, and the explosive sounds were thought to frighten them.

Since firecrackers are illegal in San Francisco, stores sell Pop Pop boxes that contain small packages you can throw on the floor to make a loud popping noise.

The Dragon's Gate in San Francisco's Chinatown.

Jill Dutton

5. Don’t Miss The Dragon’s Gate

At the southern end of Chinatown along Grant Avenue is Dragon’s Gate, the famous gate designed by the Chinese-American architect Clayton Lee. Erected in 1970, and consisting of stone pillars, green-tiled pagodas, and dragon sculptures, the gate is the only authentic Chinatown gate in the U.S. Guarding the three entryways are three stone lion statues, believed to ward off evil. There is a sign in Chinese hanging over each passage.

6. You Can Watch Fortune Cookies Being Made

The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory has been making fortune cookies since 1962. It’s a small setup, with workers folding messages into cookies by hand and producing about 10,000 cookies each day. Watch as the cookies are created on the line, baked on a cast-iron rotating griddle wheel, and shaped by hand, and then taste one hot off the grill before purchasing bags of flavored cookies to take home.

Herbal remedies in a pharmacy in Chinatown.

Jill Dutton

7. You’ll Discover Ancient Herbal Remedies

Chinese medicine encompasses a variety of healing modalities, including acupuncture, massage, exercise, dietary therapy, and herbal medicine. Step inside one of the herbal pharmacies in Chinatown to learn about the many herbs and tinctures used for healing.

During our walking tour, we learned about unusual medicinal foods such as deer sinew and cockroaches, but the stores stock plenty of more familiar herbal remedies such as ginger, licorice root, and goji berry.

8. You Can Visit One Of The Oldest Taoist Temples In The Country

The Tin How Temple, founded in 1852, was dedicated to the Chinese sea goddess, Mazu, by the early Chinese migrants to the U.S. Mazu’s formal title is Tin How, which means “Empress of Heaven” in Cantonese. Located on a side street, the temple has a central shrine where a statue of Mazu sits. The room is filled with rows of lanterns donated by devotees. The names of the donors are written on slips of red paper attached to the lanterns.

Old Saint Mary's Cathedral in San Francisco's Chinatown.

jejim / Shutterstock

9. It’s Home To The Oldest Catholic Cathedral In California

The oldest Catholic cathedral in California, the Old Saint Mary’s Cathedral, was constructed in 1854. All of the bricks for this Gothic Revival church were imported from China. Across from the church is Saint Mary’s Square, a public park that has included since its 2017 renovation a 6,000-square-foot rooftop area with a landscaped seating section and an open plaza.

10. You Can Explore An Underground Gallery

Located in the basement of a dry-cleaning establishment is Et al., a 450-square-foot art gallery. Local artists are represented in the monthly exhibitions. The gallery serves as a site for experimental events and was founded in 2013.

11. There’s Something For Every Budget

Budget-conscious travelers should visit street vendors for affordable food options. If you’d like to stay nearby, the Grant Plaza Hotel is conveniently located at the entrance to Chinatown.

If you have more to spend, there are numerous fine-dining options in the area, and the newly renovated Clift Royal Sonesta is a luxe place to stay just a few blocks from Chinatown.

A dragon in a New Year parade in San Francisco's Chinatown.

Jeremy_Ridnor / Shutterstock

12. Visit During Chinese New Year For Extra Fun

To fully experience the culture of Chinatown, visit during the Chinese New Year Festival. The festival runs for two weeks and includes parades, a flower market, and a community fair. It’s one of the largest celebrations of its kind and was named one of the top 10 parades in the world by the International Festivals & Events Association. The Southwest Airlines Chinese New Year Parade in San Francisco is one of only a few remaining night-illuminated parades in North America, and it’s the largest parade celebrating the Chinese New Year outside of Asia.

Pro Tip: Check out my article on the best places to eat in San Francisco’s Chinatown. To learn more, subscribe to Chinatown Scoop, a monthly newsletter with Chinatown-related interviews and articles.

More on the City by the Bay:

  • How To Spend An Amazing Day In San Francisco
  • 12 Amazing Hidden Gems In San Francisco
  • 9 Interesting Things To Know About San Francisco’s Columbus Tower
  • 8 Totally Free Things To Do In San Francisco
  • Visiting San Francisco’s Marin Headlands: 9 Things To Know

Best Places To Eat In San Francisco’s Chinatown

San Francisco’s Chinatown is not only the largest Chinatown outside of Asia, but it is the oldest Chinatown in North America. From its busy seafood markets to its medicinal herb shops, San Francisco’s Chinatown offers an up-close glimpse at Chinese-American culture and food. There’s no better place to experience Asian-American culture, sample dim sum, sip a Mai Tai, purchase fresh fish and vegetables, or visit a fortune cookie factory.

Here are some of the best places to eat and drink in Chinatown.

San Francisco's Chinatown.

Andrey Bayda / Shutterstock

All About Chinatown Tours

Start with a food tour to get a feel for the area and try some new dishes. You can easily become overwhelmed by all the options, and a tour guide can give you an idea of where you should return for a full meal — and what you ought to order, since many of the menus are not in English.

Consider following along as Linda Lee of All About Chinatown takes you through the streets of Chinatown to sample delicious bites. Lee has offered tours since 1983 and knows the streets, the people, and the food. As you walk, you’ll learn about the history of the Chinese restaurants and how they became popular with Gold Rush miners as well as wealthy San Franciscans looking for exotic meals. Lee helps to demystify China’s regional cuisines and discusses each area’s distinct style of cooking — Cantonese, Shanghainese, Hunanese, Northern, and Halal.

China Live

In 2018, Time named China Live one of the world’s greatest places. It’s easy to see why. This 30,000-square-foot culinary destination offers shopping and dining on two floors.

On the ground floor, sip a cup of Chinese tea at Oolong Cafe; visit the marketplace to purchase spices, teas, condiments, and cookware; or view the charcuterie and oven station, the dumpling station, and a dessert bar.

On the second floor, enjoy a fine-dining experience at Eight Tables Restaurant, where you can sample a tasting menu for $225, a chef’s menu for $325, or a seven-course menu for $175. Also on the second floor, you can enjoy craft cocktails such as the Shengliang Highball or Kung Pao Kitty at Bar Central.

Dim Sum Spots

The words dim sum literally mean “to touch lightly your heart,” but also “to barely fill your stomach.” It’s an apt description, as a dim sum meal consists of bite-sized portions of steamed dumplings and other fried foods. At one of Chinatown’s dim sum spots, you’ll enjoy small plates of steamed buns, rice noodle rolls, and dumplings filled with everything from pork to prawn to chicken to vegetables. Dim sum is a great way to sample a variety of Chinese dishes.

Many restaurants in Chinatown serve dim sum, but a few of my favorites are Great Eastern, which serves up Hong Kong-style dim sum plus fresh seafood; City View, which offers dim sum cuisine in an upscale, contemporary setting; and Oriental Pearl, which has been in business since 1992.

Hakkasan

This international chain Hakkasan draws inspiration from all over the world. The menu selections are traditional Chinese dishes prepared from local and seasonal ingredients. Every location has signature dishes only available at Hakkasan as well as items created exclusively for that particular location.

One of the newer locations is in San Francisco’s Chinatown. Try the Crispy Culver Farms duck salad with ruby grapefruit, pine nuts, and pomegranate, or the aubergine, tofu, and mushroom claypot served with chili and black bean sauce. The truffle-braised noodle is rich and savory, served with crabmeat and scallops.

Capital Restaurant

Locals often lunch at Capital Restaurant. It’s in an unassuming location, but you can get a great meal for a reasonable price. The famous salt-and-pepper chicken wings are considered the best in town, and the black pepper vinegar that’s available at the tables is also a hit. You might want to order an extra meal for your party, however, since the portions can be small.

Li Po Cocktail Lounge

You absolutely must sip an authentic Mai Tai at a lounge in Chinatown. The Mai Tai was invented in nearby Oakland, California, and originally consisted of aged Jamaican rum, fresh lime, a splash of orange curacao, simple syrup, and orgeat (a syrup made from almonds and a little orange flower or rose water).

Anthony Bourdain visited Li Po Cocktail Lounge in 2012, so you know it’s a good one. Li Po is a dive bar where locals and tourists alike hang out — it’s been voted the best dive bar in San Francisco for two years. Li Po’s take on the Mai Tai consists of three types of rum, a Chinese liqueur, and pineapple juice.

A market in San Francisco's Chinatown.

Jill Dutton

Chinese Markets

There are two main streets in Chinatown: Stockton Street and Grant Avenue. Between those two main streets are alleys and side streets filled with unique offerings like medicinal herb shops. On Stockton Street, you’ll find many authentic grocers and markets where the locals shop. Stroll in to one of them and choose from a variety of produce, plus live seafood, roasted birds, and dried seafood. Stockton Street is the heart of Chinatown, and you’ll find many places where you can purchase authentic Chinese food.

Tea Shops

At Vital Tea Leaf, you can learn about the art of crafting Chinese tea and the health benefits of drinking it. Shop the large selection of green, black, and herbal teas; sample a few new blends; and take home some tea to remind you of your visit. Tisanes are flower and herbal infusions not made from the tea bush. They include fruits, herbs, roots, and spices. You can purchase tisanes to infuse alone, or combine them with other flowers and herbs to create a specialty fusion.

Red Blossom Tea Company sells artisanal loose-leaf teas and teaware that you can use to recreate your experience at home. Some of the rare teas they offer include aged tung ting, wild guava leaves, and others.

Aroma Tea Shop offers more loose teas as well as one-of-a-kind accessories such as a double glass Kung Fu travel tea bottle with a filter to prepare your tea on the go.

Or sit down for a glass of bubble tea at Steap Tea Bar, where you’ll find bubble-tea inspired drinks made from premium loose-leaf and organic teas and served with local, organic milks and sugars and fresh organic produce. Their boba (tapioca starch pearls) and toppings are made in-house daily.

Fortune cookie making at Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory in Chinatown, San Francisco
Fortune cookie making at Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory in Chinatown, San Francisco
Photo credit: Pat Chuturbhuti / Shutterstock.com

Chinese Bakeries

End your dining tour of Chinatown with a sweet treat from one of the many bakeries.

You’ll find fortune cookies at many area bakeries, but you can purchase a freshly made bag straight from the factory at Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, which has been hand-making fortune cookies since 1962.

In addition to traditional fortune cookies, Mee Mee Bakery sells chocolate- and strawberry-flavored cookies as well as breads, cakes, and pastries. Mooncakes are a Chinese delicacy traditionally eaten during the Mid-Autumn Festival. The mooncakes at Mee Mee Bakery come in a variety of flavors, including date, pineapple, black bean, and green tea, among others.

Locals line up for the custard tarts and other baked goods at Golden Gate Bakery. You’ll find lines at Good Mong Kok Bakery as well, but it’s worth the wait for the takeout dim sum and freshly baked breads.

Bonus: The Wok Shop

After tasting some authentic Chinese food, you might want to take home some cooking gadgets to help you recreate your experience at home. The Wok Shop sells cleavers, woks, crockware, steamers, teapots, and anything else you might need to prepare authentic Chinese cuisine. The specialty utensils such as the brass skimmers and oil pots will bring authenticity to your home-cooked Chinese meals. Chinatown restaurant owners shop here to acquire the best cooking utensils for their businesses.

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