Take The Scenic Route: Calgary To Vancouver Via Crowsnest Pass

A road trip from Calgary to Vancouver has two main route choices. The popular Coquihalla route (about 11 hours drive time) uses Highway 1/the Trans-Canada Highway and Highway 5/the Coquihalla Highway. The southern route via Highway 3/the Crowsnest Highway takes about 14 hours.

In summer, the Crowsnest route offers many stops at towns, lakes, and parks. It’s doable in two days, more pleasant in three, and can easily be a vacation of a week or more.

In winter, people use both routes, but it’s not for the fun of the road trip, it’s to get from A to B. The ski resorts and snow trails all over British Columbia attract lots of visitors and the roads are maintained. However, apart from snow-centric destinations, many accommodations and tourist places close from about October to May. Bottom line: To simply get to Vancouver quickly, I’d use the Coquihalla route (described in our beautiful Canadian Rockies road trip: Calgary to Vancouver) year-round. If there was time for a proper road trip, I’d build my plan around the Crowsnest route between mid-April and mid-October.

Pro Tip: For weather and road conditions, in Alberta, phone 511 or check 511alberta.ca and the Alberta Motor Association (AMA) Road Reports. In British Columbia, look at the government’s DriveBC website and the BCAA’s website. Cellular reception can be spotty in the mountains.

The following list of stops begins with two scenic options: going south from Calgary to Nanton and then west to the Cowboy Trail, or going west from Calgary to join the Cowboy Trail sooner.

The difference? In Nanton, the Bomber Command Museum houses a restored Avro Lancaster Bomber. The other way includes a conservation area and a close-up of oil and gas history.

The skyline of Calgary in Alberta, Canada. — Alix Kreil / Shutterstock

Calgary, Alberta

You could easily spend a few days here in my home city.

Calgary has many creative, beautiful places to eat. I like the River Cafe downtown and Rouge in the historic A.E. Cross House in Inglewood. The Blackfoot Truckstop Diner, at the opposite end of the spectrum, serves a reliable all-day breakfast.

We have a craft beer community, not just an industry.

There’s music, theater, sports, shopping, walking and cycling trails, museums, and art. Visit Calgary is the official tourism site.

The biggest annual event is the Calgary Stampede, a combination of rodeo, agricultural fair, and stage shows equalling a non-stop party, in July.

Before you leave Calgary, you can get into the Western spirit. At Fish Creek Provincial Park, enjoy a meal in the 1896 Bow Valley Ranche house, or, in summer, an ice cream cone and light lunch at another original ranch building, Annie’s Cafe.

Get an Alberta fishing license and try your luck in the world-class Bow River and other streams along the way. In British Columbia, you need a B.C. fishing license.

When it’s time to go, leave Calgary on Macleod Trail/Highway 2 heading south. For Nanton, carry on for an hour. The other option is to go west on Highway 22X at the south end of Calgary, toward Highway 22/Cowboy Trail.

The Nanton way misses the first two stops below, but with a little backtracking, you can join the Cowboy Trail for the third.

Ann And Sandy Cross Conservation Area

On Highway 22X, the Ann and Sandy Cross Conservation Area is 4,800 acres of a former ranch, now a wildlife preserve. Subject to the rules, visitors may hike on the trails among the native plants, watching for birds and animals.

Continue west on 22X and then turn right to take Highway 22/Cowboy Trail south.

Turner Valley

The Turner Valley Gas Plant, a national and provincial historic site, is a reminder of how Alberta’s oil and gas industry got started.

Nearby Eau Claire Distillery uses local ingredients to produce inspired spirits. Both the gas plant and the distillery offer tours.

Bar U Ranch National Historic Site

Past Longview, the Bar U Ranch, open seasonally, shows the working cowboy’s life in the early days.

Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site

A side trip about an hour east of Lundbreck, Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Together, the interpretive center and site do a superb job of explaining how the Blackfoot people depended on the bison (buffalo), and how close their relationship to the great beast was.

This is a valuable archaeological site where for about 6,000 years, people used to hunt bison (buffalo) by driving herds over the cliffs. The visit starts indoors and then moves outside for an easy walk. It’s open seasonally.

The last stop in Alberta comes after you turn off Highway 22 onto Highway 3/Crowsnest Highway and head west toward British Columbia.

Frank Slide

At 4:10 a.m. on Wednesday, April 29, 1903, a piece of Turtle Mountain slid down, burying part of the town of Frank, killing 110 of its 600 inhabitants.

Unlike the lush forests and solid cliff faces of the Rocky Mountains, the Frank Slide is a barren, almost moon-like boulder field that’s difficult to walk on. Fortunately, there’s a boardwalk and an explanation of what happened at the Frank Slide Interpretive Centre.

Fernie, British Columbia

The mountain town of Fernie has ski hills, golf, fishing, hiking, mountain biking, rafting — a full range of outdoor activities as well as choices for eating and drinking. Tourism Fernie is the go-to site for tourist information.

The historic town of Fort Steele in Canada. — Josef Hanus / Shutterstock

Fort Steele, British Columbia

Just north of Cranbrook, Fort Steele Heritage Town was hopping during the gold rush but became a ghost town until coming back to life as a heritage town in the 1960s. There are almost 100 buildings, a steam train (rides in July and August), rare breeds of farm animals, and skilled tradespeople at work, 1890s style.

Kootenay Lake Ferry

A fun detour, instead of driving from Creston to Salmo, is to go up the east side of Kootenay Lake to take the free ferry across. This map from Nelson-Kootenay Lake Tourism shows some choices for lakeside stops en route.

The city of Nelson, Canada. — Astrid Hinderks / Shutterstock

Nelson, British Columbia

Nelson has an artsy and historic feel as well as year-round outdoor sports. Thanks perhaps to the setting and the music program at local Selkirk College, this area is a festival hotspot. The celebration of indie music and arts at Tiny Lights Festival breaks the mold, with a leave-no-trace sustainability ethic and community-wide participation up in nearby Ymir.

Christina Lake, British Columbia

Lakes and mountains are what British Columbia is all about, especially in summer. Christina Lake is loved for its warm water and family-friendly atmosphere.

The town of Osoyoos in Canada. — Nalidsa / Shutterstock

Osoyoos, British Columbia

Osoyoos Lake is Canada’s warmest, which isn’t just good for recreation; it’s also great for orchards and vineyards. If you’re into wine tours, start here. For more wine, detour north into the Okanagan Valley for a few days.

E.C. Manning Provincial Park

From Osoyoos to E.C. Manning Provincial Park, there’s an elevation gain of about 3,500 feet. The air gets cooler and the orchards give way to the forest.

This is a pleasant place for hiking, whether for an hour’s break from driving or a multi-day stay.

Hope, British Columbia

The mountain driving ends at the little town of Hope.

In my piece on the beautiful Canadian Rockies road trip from Calgary to Vancouver, I tell a bit more about Hope and the intriguing Othello Tunnels above it.

Drive straight on to Vancouver via the Trans-Canada Highway or take a side trip and a relaxing break at Harrison Hot Springs.

The city of Vancouver in British Columbia, Canada. — mffoto / Shutterstock

Vancouver, British Columbia

Vancouver, on the Pacific Ocean, is a major Canadian city with music, art, hiking, cycling, beaches, professional sports, winter sports, and a range of foodie experiences. It’s easy to spend a few days here.

This is a cruise ship port for trips up the coast to Alaska. BC Ferries has service from various terminals to Vancouver Island, the Sunshine Coast, and other islands. Continue your British Columbia road trip from Vancouver to Victoria the scenic way, or go directly by ferry from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay.

Pro Tips

The official tourist information sources for these areas are Travel Alberta and Travel British Columbia. Each province has its own system for camping reservations in the provincial parks; see Alberta Parks and BC Parks.

Except for the Ann and Sandy Cross Conservation Area, the attractions listed here are generally accessible to people who use wheelchairs. Please check the individual websites for particulars.

Throughout interior British Columbia, there are a number of ghost towns, often with mining histories. I visited abandoned Phoenix, British Columbia, after reading about it on a diner placemat.

The drive from Calgary to Vancouver via the Crowsnest Pass can last all summer if you have time. There’s lots to explore.

9 Classic French Dishes And Where To Enjoy Them In Paris

Paris is the ultimate foodie destination, and many visitors plan itineraries revolving around food by making restaurant reservations in advance, planning fresh market visits, and indulging in classic French dishes, pastries, and drinks.

In order to navigate where to find the best of these dishes, we have compiled a list of the top foods and the best places to enjoy them.

1. Croissants

The flaky layers and buttery taste of a croissant are surely on the top rung of the most desired and beloved dishes of France, but all croissants are not created equal, with many falling short of the desired texture and taste. Here are two that are worth the trip.

Maison Landemaine is a small chain of bakeries specializing in artisan methods of bread and pastry making. Each location has its own baking facility and ovens, so the breads are baked hourly. If you are lucky enough, you may get a warm croissant straight out of the oven, cooling on a baking tray, but if not, rest assured you will still get a tasty delight.

In 2018, a small, neighborhood bakery, La Maison d’Isabelle on Boulevard Saint-Germain des Pres in the Latin Quarter, won the much-contested annual award for the best croissant in Paris. They use a superior grade of butter and organic flour to produce their award-winning croissants.

Restaurant, Au Pied de Cochon in Paris. — Just Another Photographer / Shutterstock

2. Onion Soup

A warm beef broth with caramelized onions swirling in it, a smattering of croutons mixed in, and, finally, a layer of Gruyere cheese melted on top of the crock are the key ingredients of a great onion soup. However, beware of tourist restaurants that serve a watered-down, tasteless version with little or no flavor.

Le Bistrot de Vosges, minutes from the Place des Vosges, specializes in the hearty cuisine from the Aveyron region of France. Their onion soup has a strong but not overpowering beef broth and thick, gooey cheese on top

A legendary cafe also legendary for its version of onion soup, Au Pied de Cochon is one of the few cafes/bistros open 24 hours and is a magnet for late-night party people who crave a hot bowl of soup after their merrymaking at bars and clubs.

3. Croque Monsieur

This is the French version of the American comfort food grilled cheese. A standard dish at almost every Paris cafe, it’s prepared with an open face on bread with a brush of bechamel sauce, then a layer of ham, then a layer of Gruyere, and cooked in a frying pan with a bit of butter. The classic version is served on pain de mie, similar to white bread in the U.S. but of a much higher quality. Many cafes make it with poilane, a sourdough bread that gives it a bit of a crunch.

Vins des Pyrenees in the Marais serves a decadent interpretation of croque monsieur, using Gouda cheese flecked with bits of truffle on thick slices of pain de mie, along with a great wine list from the Pyrenees mountain range.

A more delicate and lighter version of croque monsieur with the crusts cut off is served at Sebastien Gaudard, a cafe and tea salon near the Louvre. They bake their own bread and use high-grade Comte cheese.

It’s traditional for croque monsieur to be served with a side of mixed greens. On most menus that have croque monsieur, they also list a croque madame, which is the same, except it’s served with a fried egg on top.

Macarons from Pierre Herme in Paris. — Salvador Maniquiz / Shutterstock

4. Macaron

The competition is fierce in Paris for the best macarons, and it seems that almost every other storefront in Paris has its version of the uber-popular treat.

Although Laduree is the most popular and well-known producer of macarons in France, we have another favorite instead. Pierre Herme is the real king of macarons, and not only does he feature popular flavors such as vanilla, coffee, raspberry, and lemon; he also stocks novel flavors including milk chocolate and passion fruit, creme brulee, rose, and their signature flavor, Ispahan, made with lychee, rose, and raspberry.

Macarons at Cafe Carette are a standout with their intense flavors and sublime texture. At teatime, you can enjoy a selection of five, along with a drink of your choice, for 15 euros. Cafe Carrette also has a takeout bakery counter, and you can buy them by the piece for 2 euros each. We love the salted butter caramel and cherry the most.

5. Steak Frites

A simple dish of steak and fries is elevated to a much higher standard in France, where the quality of the meat and the crispness of the fries is paramount in producing top-notch steak frites.

Le Relais de l’Entrecote is the go-to restaurant for Parisians for their steak frites. They offer a one-price menu, and the only thing you have a choice of is dessert and wine. Once you are seated, the only questions the waitperson asks you are how you want your meat cooked and what kind of wine you want. A few minutes later, you are served a house salad of fresh greens tossed with some walnuts and vinaigrette dressing. After that, a plate with sliced steak accompanied by their secret and delicious Bearnaise-like sauce and a mound of crispy frites arrives. As if that’s not satisfying enough, about 20 minutes later, the waitperson offers you a second plate of steak and fries. Now the only big decision you have is choosing one dessert from a list of a dozen.

Le Relais de l’Entrecote has three locations in Paris: Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Montparnasse, and right off the Champs-Elysees. They are open for lunch and dinner but do not take reservations, so make sure you get there at 11:45 for lunch or 6:45 for dinner to avoid the lines.

Beef bourguignon, a popular dish in France. — hlphoto / Shutterstock

6. Beef Bourguignon

A slow-cooked stew of beef, red wine, carrots, pearl onions, and bacon, beef bourguignon is from the Burgundy region of France, which is known for its fine wine and the earthy food that goes with it.

Beef bourguignon is getting more difficult to find at Parisian restaurants, but we suggest two that serve authentic versions.

A little bistro tucked away on a narrow side street in Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Chez Fernand serves intensely flavored beef bourguignon. When you eat this dish, you’ll taste the Burgundy wine, and the meat is so tender, it melts in your mouth.

Au Bourguignon du Marais in the Marais district prides itself on its authentic Burgundy cuisine and extensive wine list. Their version of beef bourguignon is served in a mini cast iron Le Creuset pot.

7. Crepes

Authentic crepes come from the French countryside of France, Brittany. The savory ones, which are also named galettes, are made with buckwheat flour and are usually served with a hard apple cider.

La Cidrerie du Marais offers the Brittany-style crepes in about 12 varieties, and you can also custom build your crepe with a selection of ingredients including eggs, goat and Swiss cheese, mushrooms, potatoes, bacon, and onions. The crepes are served with a selection of pure and sparkling ciders produced in Brittany. Make sure to leave room for a decadent, sweet crepe such as Nutella and whipped cream, sauteed apples, and chocolate with chocolate syrup.

A more upscale venue for Brittany-style crepes is Breizh Cafe, which features an extensive list of gourmet crepes, some with unusual pairings, such as white chocolate and matcha tea, smoked herring and potatoes, mozzarella, basil and tomatoes, and poached peaches with raspberry sauce and mint.

Pro Tip: La Cidrerie du Marais and Breizh Cafe only use buckwheat flour, which is gluten-free, in their crepes.

8. Souffles

No worries about your souffle falling when you go to a souffle restaurant in Paris.

Aptly named Le Souffle near the Tuileries Garden, prepares a full menu of souffles. If you want the true immersion experience, order the three-course souffle menu at just under 40 euros, which includes a small starter souffle, a main course souffle, and a dessert souffle. If that’s too much souffle for you, you can order from the a la carte menu, which includes a duck and salmon main course. Popular savory souffles include cheese, spinach, and chicken. Grand Marnier, chocolate with chocolate syrup, and raspberry with a rhubarb sauce are just a few of the sweet ones.

Pro Tip: Order a half-portion savory souffle so you have enough room for a full-sized dessert one.

Les Deux Magots in Paris. — Petr Kovalenkov / Shutterstock

9. Hot Chocolate

Although hot chocolate was not invented in France, the French version is quite remarkable.

Les Deux Magots, the iconic Left Bank cafe in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Pres, where Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, Picasso, and Simone de Beauvoir hung out, serves a thick, velvety hot chocolate in a little pot.

The first tea salon in Paris, which has survived since the early 1900s, Laduree serves such a rich hot chocolate, you may have to dilute it with hot milk or water. You may also purchase a cup to go at their retail shop next door (on Rue Royale, near Rue Saint-Honore).

9 Scenic Spots To Explore In The Valley Of Fire

When it comes to blazing colors and monumental shapes, there is a spot in Nevada that might just rival the spectacle of the Las Vegas Strip.

The Valley of Fire State Park glows with pink-and-beige-pinstriped waves, rainbow valleys, and crimson arches. And for some Vegas-style flare, there’s also a whimsical elephant, a fierce spear-thrower, and a beehive valley.

Unlike glittery Vegas, though, the Valley of Fire is all natural, featuring sandstone rock that was formed 150 million years ago during the Jurassic Period. Fittingly, the natural wonder is Nevada’s oldest and largest state park.

At less than an hour’s drive northeast of the major tourist draw of Las Vegas, the Valley of Fire State Park attracts about a quarter of a million visitors a year. Still, the park retains an aura of remoteness — so close yet so far away from the big city.

I recommend planning your visit to Valley of Fire during the cooler weather of the spring or fall. Because, really, the name says it all — it’s fiery hot in the summer months.

The average high temperatures in June, July, and August all top 100 degrees: 101 in June, 106 in July, and 103 in August. March and April are optimal, with average highs in the 70-degree range. October is warm and sunny, with an average high temperature of 83, while November is noticeably cooler, with an average high of 67. The winter months are cool but still comfortable, with average highs of 57 degrees in both December and January.

I visited in June, and the temperatures were already too hot to be comfortable on many of the sand-and-rock trails of the state park. But if you’re planning to sightsee mostly from your car, you can still take in the beautiful scenic drive and several of the notable rock formations without too much exertion during the hot weather.

Overall, if you’re traveling to Las Vegas, the Valley of Fire State Park is a must-visit Nevada destination. In fact, it might just be the best Vegas day trip available. Here are just a few of the unforgettable scenic spots you’ll find there.

The Valley of Fire Scenic Byway in Utah. — Cindy Barks

1. The Scenic Byway

Majestic is the word that the Travel Nevada website uses to describe the Valley of Fire Scenic Byway, and I would second that. The long ribbon of blacktop beckons as it winds its way past scarlet cliffs and peculiarly shaped rocks.

“Mimicking the dance of a flame, the rocks change from benign oranges and browns to deeper, more dramatic shades, while the sun and its shadows seem to mold the rocks into new shapes,” says the website.

If possible, try to time your drive through the park for either sunrise or sunset. That’s when the rocks are at their most luminous. But even if you arrive at midday, expect to be captivated by the ruddy rocks against the royal blue backdrop of the Nevada sky.

The scenic byway is just under 11 miles, and it connects the east and west entrances. A number of side roads are available for exploring off the main road. Expect to spend 2 to 3 hours driving the route and stopping at the overlooks and attractions.

Elephant Rock in Valley of Fire State Park. — Cindy Barks

2. Elephant Rock

Among its many splendid rocks, the Valley of Fire’s signature formation has to be the elephantine rock perched high above the scenic byway at the eastern end of the park.

Don’t worry about not being able to visualize an elephant in the rock’s famous shape. Featuring a long “trunk” and lumbering legs, the formation is unmistakably Elephant Rock.

Although the formation can be seen from the scenic byway, the park does not allow parking alongside the road. So, if you want a longer look at the elephant, you’ll need to park in the nearby lot and walk the less-than-half-mile round trip to the attraction.

It’s an easy hike with little elevation gain, but the surface is rocky, and there is no shade along the way. Expect to take a half hour or so to explore Elephant Rock.

Petroglyphs at Valley of Fire State Park. — Cindy Barks

3. The Petroglyphs

If you like your animal shapes to be a little more literal and come with plenty of history, be sure to stop by Atlatl Rock. The rock face, which can be reached via a long, steep staircase, features prehistoric carvings (petroglyphs) of a variety of animals, as well as of an atlatl — a throwing stick or a dart thrower used by ancient tribes to give more force to their darts or spears.

The rock art dates to prehistoric times when the Ancestral Puebloan people, also known as the Anasazi, farmed the nearby Moapa Valley sometime between 300 B.C. and A.D. 1100.

Along with the historic carvings, a climb to the top of the staircase offers great views of the surrounding valley. Expect to spend about a half hour at the site.

Excellent petroglyphs can also be seen on the park’s Petroglyph Canyon Trail, a 0.75-mile round-trip route that passes by rock faces covered in carvings. The trail ends at Mouse’s Tank, a natural basin of water in sandstone, which features multiple rock art carvings.

The Petroglyph Canyon Trail is mostly flat and is rated as easy. It takes less than a half hour to complete. Expect to walk through some loose sand and rocky terrain on the trail.

The White Domes at Valley of Fire State Park. — Cindy Barks

4. White Domes

Along the scenic byway, be sure to take the detour off the main road onto White Domes Road, a route that rises and dips as it passes by some of the most scenic vistas in the park.

The name is instantly understandable when you arrive at the parking lot at the end of the road. Massive white-dome rocks rise before you, offering a striking contrast to the reds and oranges in the rest of the park.

From the parking lot, a 1.1-mile round-trip hike is available, featuring far-off desert vistas as well as a historic movie set from the 1966 film The Professionals. The trail is rated as easy. Expect to take an hour or so to hike the loop.

Rainbow Vista in Valley of Fire State Park. — Cindy Barks

5. Rainbow Vista

For a walk that takes you to the edge of a scenic canyon, consider making the trek along the Rainbow Vista Trail.

At less than a mile round trip, the route is short but intense, with much of the trail consisting of deep red, shifting sand. Once you arrive at the Fire Canyon Overlook, though, you’re treated to sweeping 360-degree views. Expect to take about an hour to hike the Rainbow Vista Trail.

The Fire Wave Trail in Valley Of Fire State Park. — Cindy Barks

6. Fire Wave

The flowing contours of the Fire Wave were the images that initially attracted me to the Valley of Fire. Because it looked similar to The Wave — the popular but difficult-to-access flowing rock formation in Northern Arizona — I couldn’t resist visiting the much more available Fire Wave.

Consisting of slickrock in a distinctive pink-and-beige pattern, the rock really does resemble a crashing sea wave. The trail to the Fire Wave is about 1.5 miles out and back and takes about an hour and a half to complete. The trail has less than 300 feet of elevation gain and is rated as easy, although the route includes deep sand alternating with rocky surfaces.

Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada. — Cindy Barks

7. Seven Sisters

For a cool stop along the scenic byway, be sure to check out the Seven Sisters. The row of seven massive sandstone boulders offers plenty of semi-private and shady picnic areas, as well as rocks to climb.

I loved the Seven Sisters pull-off because it reminded me of the old-school scenic rest stops that families once frequented for picnic breaks while on cross-country trips. It also offers plenty of great vantage points from which to capture photos of the twisting, open road.

The Natural Arch in Valley of Fire State Park. — Cindy Barks

8. Natural Arch

It’s not the largest rock arch you’ll run across in the Southwestern United States, but the Valley of Fire’s Natural Arch still offers a beautiful glimpse of blue sky beneath a vivid red-rock archway.

A sign at the Natural Arch site notes that the gap in the rock was formed when the rock was “unable to withstand the blasting of strong winds and the slow dissolving away by rains of the cementing materials holding its sands together.” It adds that nature’s forces will eventually complete their “work of destruction,” and the arch will collapse.

Until then, though, Natural Arch offers a lovely scene along the scenic byway. Expect to spend less than a half hour checking out the site.

The Visitor Center at Valley of Fire State Park. — Atmosphere1 / Shutterstock

9. The Visitor Center

For a crash course in the geology, history, and ecology of the Valley of Fire State Park, the visitor center is a great place to either start or end your visit.

Located right in the midst of the park’s 40,000 acres, the visitor center is a wealth of information about the area. The Valley of Fire State Park dates to the 1930s, when the Great Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps spent years building campgrounds, trails, ramadas, and roads. The park was opened in 1934, and it got its official state designation in 1935.

Along with the informational exhibits, I enjoyed the visitor center’s well-stocked store and the cool respite from the hot, dry winds. If you’re planning to hit the park’s trails, be sure to stock up on drinks and salty snacks while you’re at the visitor center. Refreshment options are fairly limited in the area.

Why The Diapontia Islands Are Greece’s Best-Kept Secret

Everybody’s heard of Santorini and Mykonos — they’re the most famous Greek islands.

And you might’ve heard of some that made our list of the seven Greek islands you must visit, which introduces some more popular ones. However, not even many Greeks have heard of the Diapontia Islands, a cluster of islands, islets, and even rocks located some six miles northwest of the Greek island of Corfu in the blue waters of the Ionian Sea.

“Where are you going?” my Greek friends would ask me. I was surprised that they’d not heard of this chain until I took the journey to discover them for myself. They’re not that complicated to reach; just a flight to Corfu or, if you’re feeling adventurous and coming from Italy, many people yacht over. From Corfu, there is Joy Cruises, which will take you from the main harbor (a mere five-minute taxi drive from the airport), then, in just over an hour, you’ve reached Ereikousa, the nearest of the islands. Or take a taxi for about an hour to the northernmost tip of Corfu to the small Port of Sidari and hire a small motorboat and skipper for a 40-minute private transfer. Corfu Holidays Direct is the perfect outfitter to use; they have a multilingual staff and spacious air-conditioned vans.

The islands themselves were inhabited after the mainland Battle of Nafpaktos in 1571. Islanders from the occupied island of Paxos and Parga on the mainland fled their homes to seek refuge elsewhere, and these small outcrops, the Diapontians, saw the population grow.

At only 1.9 square miles, Ereikousa is one of the largest in the chain. So let’s take a look at what you can do on this small archipelago and how to spend your time. As they are so small and relatively unknown, even to the Grecian market, I recommend them for a visit to a virtually uninhabited region of Greece — the real side of the country.

Corfu

Let’s start by looking at the most popular island in the Ionian Sea and the nearest to the Diapontian archipelago: Corfu. At 226 square miles, the island certainly has a lot to offer all visitors. The airport is approximately two miles south of Corfu Town. There’s a main port, where cruises depart from and where domestic and international ferries, for example, those heading to and from Albania and Igoumenitsa, the gateway port city in northwest Greece where many ferries connect to Italy, dock. It’s possible to connect to the Diapontia Islands from here, too.

Corfu has 134 miles of coastline, meaning there are many beautiful beaches and coves all around the island, yet for me, the pull is the Venetian Old Town in Corfu Town and the culture of the island. The Venetian Historic Fort of the Old Town sits proudly atop the hill, guarding her city — it’s possible to visit inside every day.
Wander the cobbled streets of the Old Town, take the weight off your feet by sitting outside a coffee shop, and watch real Greek life around you: washing strung across the streets, old ladies chatting. Mountainous interior, monasteries, lush vegetation, and the blue, blue sea — Corfu really does have it all, plus it’s easy to reach via many connecting European flights or from Athens.

Erikoussa Island in Greece. — Dionisio iemma / Shutterstock

Ereikousa

From the Port of Sidari in north Corfu, Ereikousa is just eight nautical miles away and is the northernmost inhabited island in the Ionian Sea, one of the largest in the Diapontian chain. With a tiny population of just 30 — the school has two pupils, and there’s no bank or ATM machine so be sure to take euros out in Corfu — this really is a place to come and get away from it all.
Let go of all of your expectations and really connect to the real Greece on this island, whose name comes from the Greek reiki, which means “briar plants” in English and is a nod to the purple gorse bush that flourishes across the island in October. Spend more than one night in one of the two hotels: Erikousa Hotel and Acantha Boutique Hotel, both located in the port, and soon you’ll be part of the small community, greeted by fishermen and drinking raki with the locals at the small taverna.

Walk the small hiking trails through pine forests. Ereikousa is certainly not a mountainous island, the highest spot is under 430 feet, but it’s good to take an early morning or later evening walk as temperatures can get high in the summer. The sound of cicadas fills the air as they try to cool off.

With its golden sands, the coastline beyond the port to the northwest of the island is steep and rugged, so only reachable by boat. Both hotels offer yacht services or can take you out themselves.

Swim, walk, relax, eat good local food. Ereikousa is the real Greece.

Othoni

The biggest island in the Diapontia chain, Othoni is still small in size. At four square miles and a mere 40 nautical miles from the Italian Cape of Otranto, it has managed to maintain its charm and is, thankfully, untouched by mass tourism.

There are only small rooms to rent on Othoni, making it another authentic Greek experience, hence visitors either base themselves on Ereikousa and take trips with yachts or sailing ships, or come via Italy or Corfu.

The island has a well-documented maritime history that spans from the start of the 19th century. Up until WWII, a great number of the local population owned their own ships and traded far and wide in the Aegean, the Adriatic, and the Black Sea, plus the Eastern and Western Mediterranean as a whole.

The two main settlements are Ammos on the coast with the Chora in the mountains in the center of the island. At the eastern point is Cape Kastri, with its ruinous Venetian Fort, and Faros, the impressive lighthouse, originally built in 1872 at over 300 feet above sea level, which was destroyed by the Germans in WWII but then reconstructed.

The west coast’s Aspri Amos beach is your best bet for relaxing on white sand. Calypso’s Cave is located here, and the rock reflects in the emerald water. Legend has it that Odysseus saw Calypso here and was so captivated by her beauty, he remained a prisoner for seven years.

Unique like Erikoussa, Othoni is a destination for unspoiled and genuine tourism.

Mathraki

Mathraki is only 1.1 square miles in size, making it the smallest in this archipelago, hence things to do on the island are very limited. As you’re probably gathering by now, the Diapontians are so small that you have to be a fan of total relaxation and letting go.

Nevertheless, the port offers a couple of tavernas that are good for eating in once a swim and relax on the beach has been had. Should you wish to stay the night, there are a couple of hotels, too.

Portello is a beach next to the port and takes over much of the northeastern side of the island — it has very clear waters and steepens gradually, whereas the coast on the northwestern part of the island is more rugged and a haven for scuba divers and speargun fishermen. Saint Nikolas is the Saint of Seafarers, and as most islanders in this chain have fishing as their livelihood, there is a church and chapel dedicated to this saint.

Wander through olive groves and pine forests between the port and Chorio — the capital of the island — and you’ll see a handful of houses, people tending their land, and spectacular views of the sea. It’s possible to walk around this island in three to four hours, depending on the season and your speed.

It may be small in size, but Mathraki certainly makes up for this in beauty and tradition.

Now we come to the uninhabited islets, which are still worth mentioning, though there’s less information to share about them due to their size.

Diapolo

The islet of Diapolo can be viewed from the northwestern coast of Corfu and is located east of Mathraki. It’s known as the Island of Donkeys as several used to roam there. There are no facilities, as you can imagine, but it’s good to visit for a day to relax on the beach around the small coast. It’s rumoured there are even wild goats there feasting on the lush vegetation. You’ll also find flint rock here that was used in the past by residents in Corfu during the Mesolithic period to make tools.

Reach Diapolo by hiring a boat from Corfu or any other Diapontian island.

Diakopo

A rocky islet just to the southwest of Diapolo, not much is known about Diakopo. It’s very rocky; hence, it’s only really possible to moor up and swim around the island in the waters and have lunch on the boat. Take a trip from any of the slightly more inhabited Diapontian islands such as Ereikousa or Orthoni, or travel from Corfu.

Trachia

Trachia is a satellite islet of Mathraki, to the northwest, and can be viewed from there. People visit by day trip from other Diapontian islands and, again, moor up to swim in the waters surrounding it. It may be possible, as with Diapolo, to see wild goats feasting on the vegetation.

All in all, the Diapontians are your perfect get-away-from-it-all islands and islets. Things really are on Greek time here. No mass tourism exists, in fact tourism is not the main source of income; fishing is. If you’re staying on one of the bigger islands and are lucky enough to befriend a fisherman, and this is perfectly viable given how friendly everyone is, you may be invited out on a fishing trip at 4 a.m. Be prepared to let go of expectations and enjoy your time in the Diapontians.

The Secret Underground Train In London You Can Actually Ride

Would you like to take a secret train ride in London?

The seats are tight, there’s no on-board service, it’s partly in the dark — and it’s one of the most intriguing train rides you’ll find anywhere. Welcome to a piece of nearly forgotten history: London’s Post Office Railway, affectionately known as the Mail Rail.

The Mail Rail opened to visitors in 2017 and is one of the highlights of The Postal Museum. The museum does an excellent job making postal history relevant, interesting, and fun. There are lots of hands-on exhibits that will intrigue visitors of all ages.

It made me think about communication and how much it has changed since the introduction of email and texting. It seems hard to believe that most messages were sent in writing on paper not very long ago.

What Is The Mail Rail?

In the 1830s, Rowland Hill, a social reformer and educator, pushed for changes to the UK’s postal system to make it affordable and efficient. Charles Babbage, whose name is usually linked to the invention of the computer, also took an interest.

From 1840, with the invention of the postage stamp and low postal rates, the volume of mail doubled and kept growing.

By 1855, Hill thought pneumatic underground tubes might be an efficient way to move mail from one London sorting office to another. Air pressure would drive the mail cars along tracks. This was tried but not adopted. Instead, by 1900, mail usually traveled slowly above ground through London’s traffic.

For London passengers, the famous Tube opened in 1863. However, it was apparently Chicago, not the London Underground, that provided an example for the postal railway. Construction started in 1914, was halted during World War I, and was finally completed in 1927. It cut the mail travel time substantially.

The Mail Rail was used until 2003. It ran between the Paddington and Whitechapel Sorting Offices with about 70 trains on a narrow-gauge track. There were eight stations on the 6.5-mile track. The driverless trains ran almost around the clock, stopping for less than a minute to load and unload at each station.

In 1987, the name of the system was changed from the Post Office Railway to the Mail Rail.

When the rail line was shut down, it wasn’t dismantled. That turned out to be lucky for us!

How To Ride The Mail Rail

A ticket to The Postal Museum includes a ride on the Mail Rail. The little electric train is only about 4 feet tall and goes through tunnels as narrow as 7 feet on a narrow-gauge track only 2 feet wide, at a top speed of 7.5 miles per hour. This passenger train was built to resemble the original mail cars, but with a driver.

It’s a cozy fit for two adults in cars designed for sacks of mail, but it works, and it’s fun. The 15-minute ride features some of the sights and sounds of the original system, including a power cut, a look at the tunnels diverging, the flood doors, and a clever video projected to show the action on the platform. You can peek at the Train Graveyard, where the out-of-service trains sit.

The ride is partly narrated by Ray Middlesworth, a retired Mail Rail engineer. He says, “It was hard work down here, but there was enormous team spirit.” I got that impression throughout this part of the museum: They were a very strong community working at something very few people knew existed. They moved four million letters a day!

One touching story featured an adult recalling visiting this secret underground world as a child. That was something the Mail Rail workers did for their families at Christmastime.

The Postal Museum

Before or after the train ride, you’ll have a chance to explore the museum, which shows how the Post Office came into being and the many ways it has influenced our lives. The quality of the exhibits here is excellent.

A temporary exhibit I really enjoyed was about mail crime, highlighting the Great Train Robbery. There was a 1960s film covering anti-theft devices, looking more Maxwell Smart than James Bond. The Great Train Robbery exhibit recreated in detail the farmhouse kitchen where the thieves holed up.

In the 1930s, the UK General Post Office had its own film unit — who knew? At the Postal Museum, I was captivated by Night Mail, a 1936 documentary about the Postal Special train going from London up to Scotland. It’s a classic, with music by Benjamin Britten and poetry by W. H. Auden, beginning, “This is the night mail crossing the Border…” The black-and-white film shows a valiant-looking mail train puffing through the hills.

Postal workers used to sort mail on intercity trains. The Postal Museum has a railcar with a moving floor to give you that wobbly feeling while you stand and try your hand at the mail clerk’s job. It’s a challenge!

In the novel 1984, Winston Smith receives and sends messages at work via pneumatic tubes. At The Postal Museum, you can try it yourself. You put your message into a canister, place the canister into the tube, pull the lever, and wham! The canister shoots up the tube and across the room in a flash. Very satisfying.

Rail fans get a unique chance to see and ride a one-of-a-kind heritage railway here. There’s lots of equipment to see and displays showing how it all works. There’s even a chance to do the railway controller’s job, directing model trains on their route.

Including the train ride, it takes 2 to 3 hours to explore the museum. If you’re curious but won’t be able to get to London any time soon, check out this video by Joolz of Joolz Guides. I love how he brings The Postal Museum to life.

Special Events

The Postal Museum has hosted some interesting events that I hope they’ll repeat. On a tunnel walk, visitors get to explore the rail tunnel on foot in a small group with a guide. This used to be something only daring underground adventurers could try — after breaking in.

I can only imagine what might be lying around down there. The day the Mail Rail service stopped, everyone went home as usual, leaving the workplace looking as if they’d all be back the next day.

There’s an Indiana Jones feeling to the tunnel. I’m pretty sure I even saw a stalactite.

What To Know Before You Go

The Postal Museum is located in two buildings across the street from each other, connected by a crosswalk.

Except for the train ride, The Postal Museum has step-free access. The Mail Rail ride is not accessible to persons who cannot get into and out of the cars unaided. There is a film version for anyone who doesn’t ride the train, available with subtitles and, upon request, as described video. British Sign Language tours have been organized in the past. Please check the museum’s website for upcoming offerings.

There is no on-site parking. A number of buses stop nearby, however. Use the Transport for London Journey Planner to find the easiest route. There are four different Tube stations nearby, each about 15 minutes away.

The museum encourages visitors to buy museum tickets online, booking the train ride in advance. Please check the museum’s website for guidance.

Typically for any London museum with child-friendly exhibits, I would avoid summer weekends and school breaks. I’m going to make an exception here because of the timed ticketing system, and suggest following the museum on social media for current information.

More In London For Train Lovers

The London Transport Museum in Covent Garden doesn’t have a train ride, but it does explore the network in detail, with exhibits covering the Victorian times to today. The shop is well stocked with souvenirs and relevant books.

London’s main rail stations are historic sites as well as functioning, busy transport hubs.

The Docklands Light Railway is one of my favorite public transport rides — a driverless train rising above the water of London’s industrial history.

For more to see and do in London, see this page.

The Best Things To Do During A Block Island Getaway: Where To Eat, Stay, And Play

Dramatic dunes, quiet salt marshes, and miles of soft, sandy beaches welcome Block Island’s guests to kick back, relax, and enjoy all the natural treasures the island has to offer.

Block Island is about 12 miles off the coast of Rhode Island in Block Island Sound. It is a tiny seven miles long and three miles wide. The only town on the island is New Shoreham, famous for being the smallest town in the smallest state.

Things To Do On Block Island

To enjoy Block Island, you need to arrive by boat or plane. You can sail there yourself, fly in on your private jet, or, like most visitors, hop on the Block Island Ferry. The ferry sails from Pt. Judith, Newport, and Fall River with a traditional option that takes 55 minutes or the high-speed option for a quick 30-minute trip. It’s a good idea to make ferry reservations in advance. Be aware, some reservation times load first come, first served, requiring you to queue up early. If you plan to bring your car, you need to take the traditional ferry, and reservations are required.

The ferry drops you in Old Harbor, the hub of the island. From here, it is a quick walk or taxi ride to your destination, where you can begin exploring.

A cabana on Ballard's Beach on Block Island. — Sandi Barrett

Hit The Beach

North, south, east, and west, Block Island offers 15 different beaches for your flip-flops-in-the-sand enjoyment.

Fred Benson Town Beach, also known as Crescent Beach, is the most traditional beach on the island. This beach offers umbrellas and chairs for rent and has a concession stand, restrooms, and lifeguards on duty. It is a beautiful white sandy beach that is a short walk from Old Harbor.

Ballard’s Beach, part of Ballard’s Resort, is a private beach that is open to the public. They offer gorgeous sand, live music, cabana rentals, a tiki bar, and a full-service restaurant. Ballard’s Beach is a short walk from Old Harbor where you can kick back in a comfy cabana, sip a fruity drink, relax, and relax some more.

The most popular big-wave beach is Mansion Beach. Located on the northeast part of the island, it is fairly secluded and has limited parking. Getting there by taxi or bike is a good option. If you desire a quiet, less touristy beach, Mansion Beach should be at the top of your list.

The Southeast Light on Block Island. — J-BRIDGE / Shutterstock

Lighthouses

Block Island is home to two lighthouses: North Light and Southeast Light.

North Ligh t was built in 1867 to light the way around Sandy Point. Southeast Light was built in 1875. Both lighthouses have been buffered by foul weather, rebuilt, and automated. The panoramic views from the bluffs around Southeast Light are mesmerizing.

One of the many trails on Block Island. — Jane Damiani / Shutterstock

Hike The Trails

Block Island is a beach adventurer’s paradise wrapped in a tiny package, boasting a whopping 32 miles of nature trails that enable you to explore the quiet nature of the island on foot.

Clay Head Trail is an easy 3.5-mile out-and-back trail on the island’s northeast side that encompasses walking along the beach, through a dune, and in a forest grove.

A longer, more difficult trail is the Mohegan Bluffs Trail, which clocks in at 6.9 miles. The terrain is fairly rugged, making this out-and-back trail a great workout.

The Glass Float Project is the brainchild of Eben Horton, Block Island’s renowned glass artist. Over 550 glass floats (orbs) have been hidden around the beaches and Greenway Trails across the island. If you find one, it’s yours to keep. Be sure to snap a photo and register your discovery to share the beautiful glass creation.

Hit The Road

Getting around the island is easy, although it is a bit hilly. If you brought your car over on the ferry, you are all set to explore the island leisurely. If you didn’t bring your car, bikes or mopeds are good options for discovering the island.

Biking is a popular mode of transport around Block Island. The island, however, is not flat. The long, gentle hills require some biking muscles, even around town. There are multiple bike rental establishments. Island Moped and Bike Rentals is across the street from the ferry landing, making it conveniently accessible.

Given the undulating terrain, mopeds are also an appealing way to get around. A half-day rental will afford you more than enough time to visit several choice spots on the island. If you have never driven a moped, the staff at Island Moped are very thorough, making sure you can navigate safely before sending you on your way.

Take A Taxi Tour

Taxis are ubiquitous on the island. They offer more than just door-to-door, door-to-beach, and door-to-bar transportation. Most of them give island tours. Taxi island tours can be arranged after you arrive through the individual taxi company. Expect a one-hour tour narrated by your driver, who will offer lots of local history, unique stories, and personalized stops.

Mohegan Bluffs on Block Island. — quiggyt4 / Shutterstock

Climb Mohegan Bluffs

Mohegan Bluffs is one of the top spots to visit on Block Island. The 200-foot-high cliffs are located on the southern shore and overlook a somewhat rocky but secluded beach. Take the 141 steps down to the beach if you dare; climbing back up can be a great workout.

Play On The Water

Being surrounded by water means ample opportunity to play on the water. Sea Dog Cruising offers private charters and invites you to create a customized boating itinerary. Grab a takeaway lunch, libations, sunglasses, and your sense of adventure, then sit back as the crew navigates you to Montauk or Watch Hill, or on a private sunset cruise around the island.

The Spring House Hotel on Block Island. — Sandi Barrett

Places To Stay On Block Island

Many of the island’s hotels are a short walk from the ferry dock. You can also grab a taxi to your hotel if you don’t want to heft your luggage through the winding streets. Rideshare options are currently not available on the island.

Spring House Hotel

When you are arriving on the ferry, high on a hill is a magnificent old wooden hotel with a striking red mansard roof. The Spring House Hotel has stood as a symbol of arrival since 1852. Enjoy a cocktail on the wraparound veranda or find one of the white Adirondack chairs with a hilltop water view for a spectacular start to a memorable evening. Spring House offers several accommodation options; you will surely find one to suit your style.

Rose Farm Inn

Rose Farm Inn is a quaint bed and breakfast that exudes antique farmhouse charm with a beachy vibe. From the moment you check in, you will feel like you are visiting a distant relative. Located a short walk from town, it is close to several larger inns that offer spectacular views with restaurant service.

Harborside Inn

Conveniently located across from the ferry landing is Harborside Inn. The dark, ornately carved wood in the lobby takes you back in time to Victorian grandeur. The simple rooms have been updated with 20th-century amenities. The downtown location makes this an excellent spot for guests to enjoy Old Harbor.

Eating On Block Island

Seafood is best eaten by the sea, where it can be caught and prepared the same day. Block Island offers her guests many establishments that bring the daily catch to the specials menus, and there are also plenty of offerings for landlubbers.

Ballard’s For Breakfast

Ballard’s offers lunch and dinner, and for breakfast, they pull out all the stops. Imagine sipping a Breakfast Colada and chowing down on lobster eggs benedict while gazing at white sand and shoreline views. Now that is a breakfast of vacation champions.

Harbor Grill For Lunch

Grab a quick lunch at the Harbor Grill. Request a table on the porch. Alfresco dining means an opportunity to watch all the hubbub of Old Harbor while enjoying a fish sandwich, a bacon avocado wrap, or a Caesar salad.

Restaurant 1879 For Dinner

Restaurant 1879 at the Atlantic Inn is the place to go for a memorable, gourmet dinner. The award-winning restaurant’s menu presents the perfect diner’s dilemma: What to choose? Tapas selections include lobster poutine, sausage mac ’n’ cheese croquettes, halibut ceviche, shrimp dumplings, and other succulent options.

Shopping On Block Island

Artists flock to the ocean for inspiration, and Block Island has been a mecca for generations of artists. Galleries dot the shopping landscape offering original pieces that make perfect souvenirs. Decorate your home with something that reminds you of your best Block Island vacation.

Spring Street Gallery is a local art cooperative and consignment shop where you will find pottery, upcycled art, oil paintings, jewelry, quilting, acrylics, photography, and more.

Greenaway Gallery is the showpiece of the Malcom Greenaway. Beautifully photographed island and ocean shots are available at the gallery. All the work is customized, meaning you will have gorgeous photos that suit your style and are framed and delivered to evoke your island memories.

For the ceramic collector, Block Island Blue Pottery is home to whimsical and functional pottery that will bring joy and happy memories of your trip.

Jessie Edwards Studio offers stunning contemporary fine art including paintings, drawings, ceramics, photography, woodwork, and prints.

Pro Tip

Block Island is perfect for a weekend getaway or a week-long vacation. Opt for midweek travel to avoid the crowds, and be mindful of the two-night minimum stays at many hotels.