The Sami Song: A Trip To Swedish Lapland

Vanessa Chiasson is a wimpy traveller with a weak stomach but that hasn’t stopped her from sailing to the Aran Islands, running a marathon in Paris, and working on Malawian fish farms. She blogs about affordable travel and culinary adventures at TurnipseedTravel.com and her freelance work has appeared in the Globe and Mail, USA Today, FlightNetwork.com, Plum Deluxe, and The Establishment. Follow her on Twitter @Turnipseeds.

In Swedish Lapland, I Received A Welcome Dose Of Sami Hospitality

Eva Gunnare’s voice was clear and sweet. As she sang, the lyrics of the folk song swirled around her reindeer smoking hut, twirling with the fire. As I cuddled into the soft, fur-covered floor, steaming mugs of Labrador tea were shared, and Eva told — and sang — her story.

Her blade moved swiftly as she spoke, slicing off slivers of dried reindeer meat that she had prepared herself. Like me, Eva was a visitor to Sweden’s Arctic Circle — but she never left. She was a Stockholm girl before she fell in love with a Sami reindeer herder and moved to her snug home in Jokkmokk, Sweden. And as the mother of a Sami son, Eva was eager to recognize and preserve her child’s heritage.

The Sami people are commonly known to English speakers as ‘Lapps’ or ‘Laplanders’, but some consider these terms derogatory. The Sami inhabit Sápmi, a region comprised of the northernmost territories of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and European Russia.

A cornerstone their culture is hospitality. And though Eva had no way of knowing it, her interpretation of Sami warmth was exactly what I needed.

The recent death of my father made me ache for home and also pull away from it. I wanted to see the furthest corners of the world, all while struggling to cope with a touch of homesickness. To be invited into a private Sami home is considered the most intimate gesture of welcome, and I was a grateful recipient. As I burrowed amongst the cozy furs and brooded over a third mug of the delicious tea, I felt I was sorely close to embodying the cliche of traveling the world to find oneself.

Eva Gunnare sits in a reindeer smoking hut and pours tea while wearing a green dress. — Eva Gunnare pours tea. Photo: Vanessa Chiasson.

A Menu Unlike Any Other

I came into her home through her company, Essense of Lapland, which offers “Flavor Shows”. Part home visit, part cooking class, and part Sami cultural seminar, Eva’s Flavor Show had me sharing in song, feasting on pine bark bread with juniper butter, and wrestling with my emotions.

Eva’s menu is exquisite. A luxurious emerald green nettle soup flirted with saltiness and a light, feathery salad of flowers and wild greens balanced a piquant smoked trout. I couldn’t get enough of the homemade crunchy herb breadsticks. A dessert of classic vanilla ice cream paired with the Arctic’s beloved cloudberry was the ultimate experience in creamy comfort food. A steady stream of homemade tangy drinks, not unlike infused lemonades, were made from local herbs and plants and were the ideal summer refreshment. Every dish was an absolute delight, but it was the humble, buttery, pan-fried bread that transported me home.

Homemade flatbread sits wrapped in a grey tea towel. Photo: Vanessa Chiasson

The Familiar Motions of Breadbaking Came Back To Me

I grew up helping my mother, grandmothers, and aunts make bread. It was a process, a taste, and a smell I knew so well. And while it had been years since I had exerted myself to make a loaf, I knew the motions like the back of my hand.

And as I instinctively kneaded, shaped, and rolled the dough to make gáhkku, the traditional Sami bread, I couldn’t help but draw the parallels between the soothing process of making bread and the ritual of breaking it with others. I always regarded the preparation of dough as a somewhat solo activity, but in Eva’s home fellowship was present at every step. It took intricate teamwork to master the motion of flipping the flattened gáhkku into the pan, and then back out again before it burned and for once there was no such thing as too many cooks in the kitchen.

A bowl of white vanilla ice cream and stewed golden cloudberries. — Vanilla ice cream and cloudberries. Photo: Vanessa Chiasson

No Ordinary Dessert and Coffee

After stuffing me with some more cloudberries — they really are irresistible — our meal concluded with one final course. Coffee and cheese is commonplace enough, but in Swedish Lapland, Sami tradition dictates a most special way of serving and eating it. Small cubes of the cheese, known as kaffeost or “coffee cheese”, were passed around and we were instructed to plop them into our coffee. My eyebrows furrowed. Why waste perfectly good cheese? Or coffee, for that matter? But Eva was insistent.

The story goes that the people of Jokkmokk and the surrounding area consume so much coffee that they are at risk of sodium deficiency, as the local spring water is pure and consequently free of minerals. The kaffeost, which takes on the flavor of a mocha cream cheese with a squeaky consistency, is eaten after you drain your cup. It provides the necessary sodium and is a hearty, welcome addition for a resting party of reindeer herders.

Kaffeost has a taste and texture best described as curious. I’m not sure if I would actively seek it out to try again, but I’m certainly glad I did experience it at Eva’s. It was the perfect ending to my ‘home away from home’ experience — familiar, but not overly so.

A white cup contains black coffee and a teaspoon holding two pieces of ivory colored kaffeost cheese — Kaffeost cheese in coffee. Photo: Vanessa Chiasson

Full Stomach, Light Heart

Before the evening concluded, Eva offered one more treat. A short drive, followed by an uphill trek, revealed an extraordinary scenic vista where she shared a final song. I didn’t understand the words, but the nostalgia in her tone was unmistakable. The beauty of Eva’s voice and the countryside were in perfect harmony. It was as if I was compelled to let go of all that was pressing on my shoulders as not to upset the balance. With a full stomach and light heart, the weight of a thousand worries was suddenly gone.

Author posing in Jokkmokk, with hills, forests, and lakes in the background — Me! Photo: Vanessa Chiasson

8 Surprising Things To Do in London

While London is built for tourists, if you want to stray off the beaten path, then consider visiting one of these spots. There are quite a few unexpected things for you to do in the second largest city in Europe.

Inside the Mail Rail exhibit. — Ian / Flickr

1. Experience The Mail Rail

After you have squished into the Tube, the last thing you want to have to do is pay to go back underground.

However, what you may not realize is that the Mail Rail isn’t the same type of tube experience. Between the years of 1927 and up until 2003, this was the Post Office’s micro-railway that ran underground, which was responsible for carrying millions of letters each day on a path of 6.5 miles beneath the streets of London.

While the tracks remained unused for more than 10 years, in September of 2017 the Mail Rail was reopened to the public and now allows visitors to get on board replica rail cars and see the city from a new perspective.

2. The Skeleton Of Jeremy Bentham

Yes — a real-life skeleton. You can visit the South Cloisters of the primary building of University College in London and here, you will find a cabinet that contains the skeleton (which is fully clothed) of the reformer and well-known philosopher Jeremy Bentham. The head that you will see is actually Bentham’s skeleton, which has been covered in wax.

While the cabinet used to contain the entire mummified corpse of Bentham, it wound up decaying. Don’t worry: his body was preserved in this strange manner at his own request!

3. Visit The House Of Dreams

Here are three words that best describe this location: eccentric, multicolored, and Kitsch. When you visit the House of Dreams, it will be an experience unlike any other you have ever had in London.

Stephen Wright is the man behind this work of art, which features an overwhelming collection of bleach bottles, plastic dolls, vinyl records and Christmas decorations. In fact, these items take up every single inch of his home in East Dulwich.

Keep in mind, the House of Dreams will only be open during certain days and you have to have an appointment. Make sure to check into this before your visit.

The air raid shelter at the Eisenhower Center. — Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

4. An Air Raid Shelter

When you think of London, you likely imagine landmarks like Big Ben and other similar, well-known attractions. But what about a visit to the Eisenhower Centre/Goodge Street shelter?

This is one of the protective deep level air-raid shelters from the WWII era, and it’s complete with kitchens, bathrooms, bunks, and a medical facility for up to 8,000 people. This is an interesting location and one that many tourists to this area are not aware of.

The Webb Patent Sewer Gas Lamp headquarters. — Geograph.org (CC BY-SA 2.0)

5. See The Very Last ‘Fart-Powered’ Lamp

Tucked behind the Savoy Hotel on Carting Lane is the very last of the Webb Patent Sewer Gas Lamps. It was invented in the latter part of the 19th century and the lamps were spread throughout the capital city. This was a means to light the streets without having to spend a large amount of money. This was also a way to clear the noxious smells that came out of the sewers of London. Today, there is only one remaining and while it is a cool sight to behold, it is only a replica.

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6. Sleep With The Lions

Starting in 2016, visitors to the London Zoo can take their zoological obsessions to another level.

Today, there are nine cabins that make up the Gir Lion Lodge. This allows visitors to spend the night at the London Zoo, just a few meters from an entire pack of Asiatic lions. Don’t settle for the hustle and bustle of a busy central London street when you can have a unique adventure — a huge cat waking you up in the morning.

Inside the Burlington Arcade. — Bikeworldtravel / Shutterstock

7. The Beadles Of Burlington Arcade

You have likely heard of the posh shops found off of Piccadilly called the Burlington Arcade; however, what you may not know is that this area has its very own, rather unique, legal jurisdiction.

Rather than seeing security guards, you will encounter “Beadles.” These individuals will be in Edwardian dress and politely ask you to vacate the area if you are caught opening an umbrella, humming, running, or trying to flaunt your scofflaw nature.

Sky Garden in London. — BBA Photography / Shutterstock

8. The Sky Garden

Way over the hustle and bustle of the nearby London Tower Bridge, Sky Garden a man-made oasis of evergreen shrubs, fruit trees, rose bushes, lavender, oaks, and more. This attraction is free, although you must reserve tickets in advance. Visitors can wander around the exquisitely landscaped gardens, observation decks, and an open air terrace of what is London’s highest public garden.

If you are planning a trip to London, make sure to put a few of these destinations on your must-visit list. You will find out that there are quite a few adventures you can have that you won’t soon forget!

7 Surprising Things To Do In Istanbul

Istanbul (nee Constantinople) is one of the liveliest and most historically rich cities in Eurasia. The interesting things you’ll find on your travels in this city will make for great dinner conversation when you get home. Here are the activities on offer we think are strangest and most appealing!

1. Turkish Elvis

Are you a fan of Elvis Presley? The King of Rock and Roll left behind many fans, as did his Turkish counterpart, Baris Manco.

The mustachioed Manco was a rockstar more geared towards children, and sadly, the father of Anatolian rock passed away in his sleep in 1999.

The natural next step? Turn his home into a museum, obviously! You might be thrown off by the life-sized statue of Manco that will greet you at the gates of the museum, but there are also statues of children playing in the gardens that nostalgically pay tribute to Manco’s children’s TV show.

You might not have known who Manco was before your visit to Istanbul, but the museum will take you through his life and leave you enthralled with the Turkish rockstar.

2. Go Mushroom Hunting

The Belgrade Forest in Istanbul is one of the most popular nature preserves in the area, and it’s flush with a variety of mushrooms.

Jilber Barutcuyan is a mushroom expert, and he regularly takes groups on tours in the spring when mushrooms are ripe for the picking.

The tour comes complete with a picnic where some meatballs and mushrooms get barbequed up for hungry hikers.

Don’t forget your camera — Belgrade Forest is full of beautiful scenery that makes for great photo opportunities!

Mushroom Hunting — Flickr / James P. Mann

3. Have A Drink At An Ancient Tavern

For a throwback to ancient days, grab a drink at Safa Meyhanesi. It’s one of Istanbul’s oldest taverns and as soon as you step foot inside, it’ll transport you to another age.

Its design is simple yet grand, and with a stunning chandelier hanging from the ceiling and vintage raki bottles, you’ll be ready to enjoy some classic Turkish meze, an assortment of small dishes served alongside alcohol. Can’t get much better than that!

The tavern has stayed in the same family for its entire 130-year history and this unusual bar is sure to leave an impression.

4. The Spooky Basilica Cistern

You might walk on top of the Basilica Cistern for days without knowing it, as it’s buried underneath the city of Istanbul.

When you enter the Cistern, you’ll walk through an inconspicuous doorway, descend down a dark set of stairs, and then explore a water reservoir that dates back to the sixth century.

You’ll be forced to walk across wooden planks to explore the cavernous cistern, and as you see koi fish swimming in the water and here drips echoing faintly in the background, you’ll feel like you’re on the set of a horror film!

A tour guide will explain the rich history of the cistern and you’ll see statues with Medusa heads on them among other artifacts. It might be a little spooky, but it’ll be a memory you won’t soon forget!

Basilica cistern Istanbul — The Basilica Cistern. Pixabay / Ganossi

5. Visit A Real Turkish Bath

Turkish baths, or hammams as they’re authentically known, have become popular, but not all that you’ll find will be authentic. A Western brand of Turkish bath has been introduced for visitors looking for a more lavish experience, but the real baths are much different.

For thousands of years, Turkish hammams were intended to be a place for local communities to cleanse and socialize amongst themselves.

A legitimate Turkish bath will separate men from women, have hot steam rooms of varying temperatures, and even attendants that will give you a rough exfoliating scrub.

Old Town has more options, but the Çemberlitai Hamami is one popular choice along with Cagaloglu. You’ll leave knowing what a truly authentic Turkish bath feels like, even if your skin feels a little raw at the end of it…

6. Buy Fresh Fish From A Fisherman

Take a walk (or taxi) down to Galata Bridge and witness what has become a local tradition: dozens, perhaps hundreds, of men forming a row along the bridge and fishing.

You’ll be amazed at how many people engage in this, and while some seem to do well, others don’t appear to catch anything at all; they’re just there for the experience!

Some of the fishermen will sell you their catches right away, but if you don’t have any luck, try the fish market at the base of the bridge. You won’t find any fresher fish!

7. See The City From A Less Common Vantage Point

Istanbul is a busy city, but one lesser-known way to avoid the crowds while still seeing the sights is by ferry.

Many boats offer paid tours of the Bosphorus Strait, but there are regular ferries that offer rides or a much cheaper fare. The average ferry ride will take you past landmarks like Bosphorus Bridge, Topkapi Palace, and an assortment of castles, mosques, mansions, and more.

Hop off at any time to grab some food or explore a sight in more depth and then hop back on to complete your unofficial tour.

All of this and more awaits the adventurous explorer taking a trip to Istanbul, one of the most historical and culturally significant places on earth!

10 Quaint Towns On California’s Coast

The scenery alone makes California’s Highway 1 a drive worth taking. The highway hugs the edge of forested mountains, winding its way past rugged cliffs and expansive Pacific Ocean vistas. The number of parks, quaint towns, and attractions along the way make it a trip of a lifetime.

Here are 10 coastal towns to visit on your drive north along Highway 1.

The quaint town of Oxnard on the coast of California. — Liliya67 / Shutterstock

1. Oxnard

Oxnard may at first seem like any other medium-sized urban area, not worth exiting the Pacific Coast Highway to explore. But on the western edge of this city with a small-town vibe, you’ll find over seven miles of quiet, sandy beach with dunes and walking trails. A section of the beach is named Hollywood Beach because of all the rich and famous people who lived there. A large, protected harbor offers boating, kayaking, sailing and excursions to the biodiverse Channel Islands National Park & Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary, known as “America’s Galápagos.” Pick up some strawberries from one of the market gardens before leaving town; Oxnard produces some of the sweetest strawberries in the country.

A foggy day at Morro Bay in California. — Donna Janke

2. Morro Bay

Morro Bay is one of the few remaining fishing villages along the California coast. It is sometimes referred to as the Gibraltar of the Pacific because of the large rock just offshore, from which the town takes its name. The funky maritime feel of the town invites you to linger. The Embarcadero, the boardwalk along the waterfront, is lined with shops, restaurants with fresh seafood, galleries, and quirky museums. You may catch a glimpse of sea otters or sea lions as you wander. Harbor cruises provide a further opportunity to look for sea life.

Coastal views of Cambria, California. — Donna Janke

3. Cambria

Cambria is a four-in-one experience.

Trails in the Fiscalini Ranch Preserve offer views of Cambria’s rugged coastline.

Odd white translucent stones composed of a mineral called chalcedony are strewn across Moonstone beach.

On the inland side of the Highway you’ll be charmed by Cambria’s other two attributes. The core of the original townsite contains buildings of varying architectural styles dating from the late 1800s. (You can pick up a map at the Cambria Historical Museum and plan your own self-guided tour.) Cambria is also known as a very artistic community, the West Village containing galleries, studios and boutiques.

Hearst Castle in San Simeon, California. — Omengramirez / Shutterstock

4. San Simeon

San Simeon is a small town of under 500 people, but there are three attractions in the area worth stopping for: Hearst Castle, Piedras Blancas elephant seal rookery, and Piedras Blancas Lightstation.

From a distance, the mansion on top of the hill looks like a fairy tale. Up close Hearst Castle’s opulence overwhelms. Media tycoon William Randolph Hearst built this hilltop estate, which he called La Cuesta Encantada (Spanish for “Enchanted Hill”), redolent of a Mediterranean village. Grand terraced entrance, fountains, Egyptian sculptures, mosaic tile floors, an indoor pool like a Roman bath decorated with tiles of fused gold — it was all calculated to impress. Hearst entertained lavishly here, and you can still take one of several tours highlighting different features of the property.

Piedras Blancas elephant seal rookery is five miles north of Hearst Castle. Elephant seals come ashore here several times during the year to breed, give birth, molt, and rest. These massive marine mammals are both ugly and beautiful. From the viewing areas, you can watch the seals huddle together, push their torpedo-shaped bodies along the sand, and lunge chests at each in real or mock fights.

Piedras Blancas Light Station, situated on a point jutting out into the ocean just under two miles away, is visible from the elephant rookery. The lighthouse began operating in 1875 and continues to serve as an aid to navigation. It is managed as a historic park and wildlife sanctuary. Access is by guided tour only, with these operating only on certain days. Check the website.

Shops in quaint Carmel-By-The-Sea, California. — Robert Mullan / Shutterstock

5. Carmel-By-The-Sea

The pretty streets of upscale Carmel-by-the-Sea contain galleries, boutiques, and charming restaurants. A village-like atmosphere invites you to stroll and browse at your own pace. For those wishing to spend more than a few hours, luxury inns and hotels provide comfort, pampering, and romance. The second of California’s missions, Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo, sits at the entrance to the town. A museum showcases the history of the mission and its peaceful gardens encourage meditation.

The coastline of Monterey, California. — Laura Ragsdale Photo / Shutterstock

6. Monterey

Monterey is more than just a stop along the Coastal Highway; one could easily spend several days here. Its most popular attractions are the world-class Monterey Aquarium and the scenic 17 Mile Drive, a private roadway winding along rugged coastline and through the legendary Pebble Beach Golf Club, but there are many other things to see and do as well.

Cannery Row, once home to sardine-canning factories and the inspiration for John Steinbeck’s novel of the same name, is a waterfront street where you’ll find restaurants, shops, hotels, wine tastings, and boardwalks offering views of Monterey Bay, a large marine sanctuary. Many original buildings remain. Watch for signs pointing out self-guided audio tour points of interest. (Audio information is available by calling the phone number on the sign.) There’s also Monterey State Historic Park, a collection of 55 historic buildings interspersed through old Monterey.

Old Fisherman’s Wharf has restaurants, shops, galleries, fishing and cruise boats and beautiful sunset views. Sea lions play along the pier at San Carlos Beach. Ocean Boulevard and Sunset Drive hug the shoreline and provide an alternative to 17 Mile Drive. You may want to stop at Lovers Point Park beach to picnic and enjoy the scenery and at Asilomar Beach to walk its trails.

Boats in the harbor at Moss Landing in California. — Jim Feliciano / Shutterstock

7. Moss Landing

Moss Landing is a small hamlet with a population of about 200. It isn’t touristy, but feels like a working town. Still, there are a few attractions for visitors in the form of galleries and antique shops. Among the commercial fishing boats in the harbor, you’ll find fishing charters and whale watching cruise boats. Moss Landing sits on the edge of Elkhorn Slough Reserve, one of the largest wetlands in the state and a top birding location.

Beach views in quaint Capitola Village, California. — Donna Janke

8. Capitola Village

Capitola Village is one of the oldest vacation retreats on the Pacific Coast, and it feels like stepping into a Mediterranean fairy-tale village. Its relaxed downtown includes colorful buildings, Victorian houses, boutiques, restaurants, bars, and coffee shops, all around large areas of sandy beach. Its long wharf, originally built in 1856, was rebuilt in the 1980s following storm damage and is still made of wood, with fishing allowed from the pier.

Mendocino Village in California. — picchu productions / Shutterstock

9. Mendocino Village

You would be justified in feeling as if you’d stepped into a movie setting in Mendocino Village. It was the inspiration for the fictional town of Cabot Cove in the television series Murder She Wrote. Set on a slightly hilly peninsula surrounded on three sides by coastal bluffs and containing many Victorian homes, Mendocino Village is enchanting. This former logging town is now an artist community with galleries and unique shops. Many of the Victorian homes have been turned into bed-and-breakfast inns.

Glass Beach in Fort Bragg, California. — Wollertz / Shutterstock

10. Fort Bragg

Fort Bragg doesn’t prima facie have the same quaint atmosphere as some of the other villages and towns along the Coastal Highway, but there are several reasons to spend time here.

The Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens contain a variety of flowers and grasses, but are best known for their brilliant selection of rhododendrons that bloom in March and April. A coastal bluff provides magnificent ocean views.

You can hunt for colorful bits of sea glass along the craggy shore of Glass Beach in MacKerricher State Park. The sea glass is trash, bits of broken bottles and car tail lights, leftovers from the days when the ocean was used as a refuse dump. If you find sea glass in the park — leave it there. It is illegal to remove sea glass from state parks. If you have difficulty finding sea glass yourself and want to see samples, you can visit The Sea Glass Museum. Admission is free.

Pacific Star Winery, twelve miles north of Fort Bragg, offers more spectacular ocean views. Its grounds on a cliff overlooking the ocean make a great spot to picnic and listen to the crashing waves.

A former software development project manager, Donna Janke now devotes her time to travel and writing. She gets excited when she discovers delightful attractions in unexpected places. She finds fascinating stories everywhere, be it in her own backyard or halfway across the globe, and loves to share those stories through her writing. When not on the road, she can be found at home on the Canadian prairies. More of her stories can be found on her blog Destinations Detours and Dreams.

Charleston’s Best Waterfront Restaurants

Carol and Mike Ivey are freelance writers and photographers with a passion for travel. Follow along as they share their travel experiences as 50-somethings that still love adventure and seeing the world at www.CuriousGypsies.com. They are currently based out of Charleston, South Carolina where they live aboard their 53-foot Hatteras Motor Yacht, Gypsy Soul.

Only the locals know that just one of Charleston’s eight best waterfront restaurants are actually located in Charleston! The rest can be found after an enjoyable water taxi ride across the Charleston Harbor, or after making a quick drive over the panoramic Ravenel Bridge into Mt. Pleasant.

1. Fleet Landing

Fleet Landing is the only waterfront restaurant actually located on the Charleston peninsula and is one of the city’s most unique restaurants. Food & Wine Magazine featured Fleet Landing in their trend-spotting “Where to Go Next” column.

Housed in a retired 1940s naval building on the east side of the Charleston peninsula, Fleet Landing specializes in Southern seafood served in a friendly, unpretentious “maritime chic” setting. Guests feast on their fill of fresh locally caught seafood while enjoying the city’s famous hospitality. Sitting on a pier overhanging the marsh, the old maritime building boasts floor-to-ceiling windows allowing diners the occasional glimpse of porpoises frolicking in the harbor.

Fleet Landing is the only waterfront restaurant located within walking distance of downtown hotels, and just down the street from the Charleston City Market.

Don’t Miss: Their daily seafood specials which sell out quickly. Grouper cheeks are a popular local favorite!

These next seven restaurants are actually located in Mt. Pleasant, a suburb just across the harbor from downtown Charleston. You will need to catch the water taxi or take a car across the picturesque Ravenel Bridge.

2. Saltwater Cowboys

Saltwater Cowboys is the newest restaurant across the Charleston harbor, located on Shem Creek in Mt. Pleasant. Quickly gaining a reputation for slow smoked BBQ and fresh seafood delivered right off the fishing trawlers located next door, this venue offers both indoor and waterfront seating.

The wait for a table here can be a bit long, but you can relax at one of the 2 outside bars while enjoying an ice-cold beverage. During the daytime, entertainment comes in the form of the diving pelicans, frolicking porpoises, and paddle boarders trying to maintain their balance in the midst of the action.

There are two levels of indoor seating with an open floor plan, white planked walls, high ceilings and spacious seating arrangements. The clean, crisp décor is fresh and inviting, although the noise level can be overwhelming during the busy hours. The indoor bar is a great alternative to a table and serves the full menu.

Don’t Miss: After a soul satisfying meal of freshly caught shrimp and locally milled grits, take a stroll to the third floor and witness the most unforgettable sunsets on Shem Creek.

Ships docked Charleston SC — Carol Ivey / Curious Gypsies

3. RB’s Seafood

RB’s Seafood is also located on Shem Creek, next door to Saltwater Cowboys. Offering a more family-friendly setting, the upper deck affords great views of the activity on the creek. Also serving seafood (hey, these are all waterfront restaurants, aren’t they?), the menu here is a little more varied than others, offering pasta and steaks in addition to seafood. The crab dip here is said to be “world famous”.

RB’s has indoor seating on the first floor in a more formal atmosphere. The cozy bar area offers specialty spirits and cocktails. Step outside and you can choose dockside seating or go up to the second floor where there is another bar and swinging bench chairs in which to sit while enjoying the breezes and the view. With a dance floor and a pirate theme, RB’s offers a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere.

Don’t Miss: The hush puppies are little puffs of heaven that dreams are made of!

4. Red’s Ice House

Red’s Ice House is a popular hotspot for the 20-30 somethings. With an open-air, laid-back, rustic setting and nighttime bands, their motto — “Inside is Boring” — pretty much sums it up. They are well known for their fried seafood, cold beer, and great views.

Red’s building is reminiscent of an old wooden boatshed with some indoor seating and an indoor bar. They also offer fan-cooled outdoor covered seating where dogs are welcome. The outdoor bar can get quite busy, as can the colorful, brightly painted island-like tables overlooking the creek. The second floor offers a great view but is generally only open at night.

If you hire a car to get there, make sure you specify the Mt. Pleasant location since they have another further away on Seabrook Island.

Pro Tip: Don’t miss the fried shrimp at Red’s. It’s some of the best in the Lowcountry.

Seafood chips dip Charleston SC — Carol Ivey / Curious Gypsies

5. Tavern And Table

If you are interested in a little more upscale venue, the Tavern and Table, also located on Shem Creek, may be to your liking. They describe their menu as rustic but refined — think plates designed for table sharing. Specialties include Charcuterie plates and creative flatbread pizzas, in addition to more elaborate seafood dishes.

The interior is chic and boasts both an indoor and outdoor bar. Couches and oversized chairs in the dockside area may make you want to stay all night. They have live music on Saturday afternoons and reservations are suggested.

Don’t Miss: Pimento cheese with bacon jam and Ritz crackers… need I say more?

6. Water’s Edge

Water’s Edge offers lunch, dinner, and Sunday Brunch featuring a varied menu of Lowcountry dishes and seafood specialties. Wine lovers take note: their wine list boasts over 450 selections, and they have consistently been awarded Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence.

With a more casual atmosphere, the second-floor interior seating offers great views. If the temperature is right, you may want to enjoy your cocktails at the outside bar overlooking the creek. Outside seating is also available.

Don’t Miss: Oysters — raw, fried, steamed — however you like them, they are a specialty here.

Oysters on a plate — Pixabay / kaleido-dp

7. Vickery’s Bar And Grill

Vickery’s is a casual eatery offering indoor and outdoor dining. It’s one of the few that also offer boat dockage for diners on a first come first serve basis. They serve a variety of dishes from seafood to burgers. Moderately priced and always friendly, Vickery’s décor is a throwback to the 1970’s.

The indoor dining areas have floor-to-ceiling windows providing panoramic views of Shem Creek, the harbor and the marsh. The Shark bar overlooking the back marsh has a tin roof and is great place to wait out an afternoon rainstorm. The ground floor bar, Muddy’s, can suffer from sand gnats, so try going upstairs and catch the breezes at a table on the outside deck.

Don’t Miss: The sandwiches here are especially tasty and you can never go wrong with the daily specials.

8. The Wreck Of The Richard And Charlene

Probably the most unusual on the list, this bare-bones seafood eatery is named after the fishing trawler that was destroyed at the site by Hurricane Hugo. The Wreck, as the locals refer to it, is only open for dinner and their menu is exclusively seafood indigenous to South Carolina. A favorite of locals, they do not accept reservations and their hours are limited, so call ahead.

Plan on a no-frills experience here, with a menu limited to seafood. Two things of note: they are tucked away at the end of a tiny street making them a little hard to find, and, most significantly, they are “naturally air conditioned”– i.e. no A/C. So this may not be the best choice for peak summer months.

Don’t Miss: Locals swear this is the most authentic Lowcountry seafood you will ever eat and the old-time atmosphere reminds you of times gone by.

Whether you choose fancy or laid-back, you should not miss sampling the Lowcountry’s seafood at one of these memorable Charleston area waterfront restaurants.

A Local’s Guide To Nashville’s Music Scene

Nashville has music everywhere. It even greets you in the airport and on the street. When you are spoiled for choice, where are the best places to go for an experience you can’t get anywhere else? You go where the locals go.

Here is a list of my favorite places to listen to music. They’ll work whether you are good at planning ahead and getting tickets or if you aren’t. Remember: Nashville is Music City, not just Country Music City, so there is something for everyone.

1. Ryman Auditorium (Downtown)

The Ryman is the Mother Church and not to be missed. You will find it on every tourist list for good reason. It’s the former home of the Grand Ole Opry and has the best acoustics of any venue around town. Last year, I attended ten shows at this venue alone.

People say there is not a bad seat in the house, but there is. You can pretty much book anything in the balcony and have a great view, but the main floor has blocked views from columns and the sloping of the balcony. Don’t book anything higher than row L or M on the main floor and look out for those columns! If you can’t get tickets to a show, I recommend going on a tour during the day. It’s well worth it.

2. Station Inn (The Gulch)

This place is not quite as old as me but it looks it. This is the place for bluegrass, and it’s probably the most authentic Nashville thing you’ll do. There are some things you need to know before going — like they only take cash, don’t order the pizza, and don’t expect more than beer. The seats are first-come-first-serve, so you’ll have to get in line. It’s open every night, but the most popular are Sunday for the Bluegrass Jam, and Tuesday for the Doyle & Debbie Show.

3. CMA Theater inside the Country Music Hall of Fame (Downtown)

This one is hard to find. I didn’t even know they had shows there until someone I knew in the music industry told me about it — and I live a block away! Most shows here are acoustic and they aren’t all Country. It looks like the Shakespeare Globe Theater, so there really isn’t a bad seat, but I do have a hard time finding who is playing and when tickets go on sale. These shows don’t show up in any other calendars I subscribe to, so I recommend subscribing to their newsletter. The latest schedule has a songwriter’s night (highly recommend), Beth Hart, and Rufus Wainwright.

4. Roberts Western World (Lower Broadway)

This is the only honky tonk you will see locals visit. I live two blocks from the strip and have been to all of them. This one is the best. Why? They play nothing that was written after about 1978. You won’t hear any ‘Bro Country’ here. The best time to go is after 10:30 pm on a Friday night. Get there a little early if you want to sit down. I always enter from the alley in the back to avoid the crowded sidewalk and the bachelorettes on Broadway. Drinks are served in plastic cups and are pretty basic.

5. Rudy’s Jazz Room (The Gulch)

Rudy’s is another one that’s hard to find. This is a serious club with serious listeners and a serious cover charge. If you like jazz, this is the place to be. Just don’t think you can chat during the show. Drinks are better here, so you can feel confident ordering a cocktail. I’ve only been here late after I’ve had dinner in the Gulch, but they open up for Happy Hour and the cover charge is cheaper.

6. Skull’s Rainbow Room (Printer’s Alley)

Skull’s is another Jazz spot, but it’s not quite as serious as Rudy’s. You can catch a Burlesque show 4 nights a week starting at 10:00 pm. This used to be our favorite place to get a nightcap after a show. I say “used to” because the last time we walked by on a Saturday night they had a line around the building. I recommend eating dinner here so you can make a reservation, catch the band, and scope out a place at the bar for the Burlesque show if you time it right.

7. Cannery Ballroom,Marathon Music Works, Exit/In

I am lumping these together because they are all the same type of venue in that they are standing-room-only. Marathon Music Works has a few seats but you can’t really count on them to be open. I love these venues because you can see some up-and-coming bands or intimate shows from more established artists. You just have to be prepared to be up on your feet all night.

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