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7 Best Hikes To Experience In North Dakota

7 Best Hikes To Experience In North Dakota

North Dakota is a state that many overlook when it comes to hiking. Did you know that there are thousands of miles that are open to hikers in this legendary state? You can have your pick of easy to difficult trails, but, most importantly, you can choose the view that you desire. Many trails meander along lakes and several are out in the beautiful prairies that showcase the stunning skies of North Dakota.

The ruggedness of the Badlands are sure to entice you, as well as the quietness of flat, gravel trails that surround the quaint communities that many call home. Here are several hiking trails that you need to discover in North Dakota.

person and dog hiking Maah Daah Hey Trail in North Dakota
Deborah Housten / Shutterstock.com

1. Maah Daah Hey Trail

Western North Dakota

This is my pick for the best hike in North Dakota. Check out TravelAwaits’ picks for the best hikes in all 50 states here. The Maah Daah Hey Trail, all 144 miles of it, is the granddaddy of all trails in the Midwest. This amazing trail system is composed of nine trail units for hikers of all abilities. Prairies, jagged peaks, valleys, and riverways make this one of the most memorable hikes you will ever experience. The trail begins 20 miles south of Watford City near Highway 85 and ends approximately 49 miles south of Medora.

With nine trail units, hikers can opt to hike portions of the trail throughout the route. As with any hike, you will want to carry plenty of water, as it’s not always plentiful throughout the Badlands of North Dakota. This trail is for the fittest hikers and offers an experience that you will want to brag about for years.

Wildlife is prevalent all along the trail. It’s not uncommon to see bighorn sheep, elk, antelope, wild turkeys, prairie dogs, golden eagles, and red-tailed hawks. Once you arrive in Theodore Roosevelt National Park, you will see bison and wild horses, which all roam freely. June is a popular time of year to hike this trail as the weather is usually cooperative. Dress in layers and pack your binoculars, as the astounding beauty and wildlife on this trail is mesmerizing.

2. Turtle Mountain State Forest

Western Turtle Mountain Region

I was introduced to Turtle Mountain State Forest a few years ago and was pleasantly surprised. This area is home to a woodland that has several hiking trails that allow you to meander through the heavy forests of Bottineau County. Strawberry Lake is in the area and offers 18 miles of trails. It is stocked with rainbow trout, so before you head out on your Turtle Mountain State Forest hike, you will want to pack your fishing gear. The lakes in this region offer a nice break in your hiking and can even provide a meal or two. Most importantly, make sure you have a North Dakota fishing license purchased before you hit this trail.

This area of North Dakota is also home to the International Peace Garden, which offers hikers an opportunity to visit two countries at the same time. This is where you can stand in Canada and the United States at the same time. In the middle of summer, the flowers are at their peak and the colors are abundant in the gardens. The hiking trails in this area of North Dakota can keep you busy for many days, if you choose.

Bob Pool / Shutterstock

3. Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park

Mandan

Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park is located seven miles south of Mandan, North Dakota. This is the oldest North Dakota state park. It was established in 1907. There are several trails in this state park where you can test out your hiking boots. These trails offer fantastic views and are all relatively easy. Bob-Tailed Pass is a favorite of mine. It connects the Little Soldier and Bloody Knife Trail Loops. It is .88-miles long and it runs past the Post Cemetery.

There’s something about the cemetery in this state park that has stayed in my mind for years. This state park is not only full of history, but it’s also a great place to connect with nature. I hiked in this state park a few years ago and came upon a beautiful view of the river that reflected on the prairie. The wildflowers were colorful and reassured me that North Dakota had welcomed a new season.

4. Pipestem Creek Trail

Jamestown

Pipestem Creek Trail is a challenging unpaved eight-mile trail on the southeast side of the dam. There is no water available along the trail, so plan accordingly. Deer frequent the trail as do mountain bikers. Hikers need to be aware of their surroundings at all times as this trail can be busy. The trail consists of dirt, grass, and gravel. The wooded riverbank runs near the trail. If you are looking for a challenging hike in a setting close to town, this is your hiking trail. If you want a shorter hike, make the scenic three-mile hike around the perimeter. If you find you love the Jamestown area and the beauty in this area of North Dakota, there are several other hiking trails to experience nearby.

5. Little Missouri State Park

Western North Dakota

This state park is often referred to as a quiet oasis. Little Missouri State Park has over 45 miles of trails that are open to hikers. You should check with park staff before you begin any hike, as the weather and trail conditions change rapidly. Hikers take to the trails that follow streams that lead to stunning views in the Badlands of North Dakota. This state park is typically uncrowded, and once you are on the trail, it’s rare to meet up with many people. Plan your hikes between May and October, when the park is open.

A trail in Theodore Roosevelt National Park's North Unit.

Sara Broers

6. Theodore Roosevelt National Park

North Unit

I particularly love the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The hiking trails are great for the casual hiker and the serious nature enthusiast. There are several hiking trails within the park that are for the novice hiker and some for the experienced hiker, too. Most importantly, follow the signage as the bison roam freely. It’s not uncommon to hike around a corner and meet up with a bison. These animals are very large and it won’t take long for you to learn that they are in charge.

The wildflowers are stunning in the summer and they bring color to the Badlands. While hiking, look upward, but also look down. If you look closely, you will most likely see the footprints of an animal that hiked the same trail you are on.

Day hikes, as well as overnight experiences, are offered in the park. If you choose to stay overnight in the park, be sure to pick up your backcountry permit at the ranger station. The solitude of the North Unit will recharge your soul as you hike through this beautiful park.

Wild horses in Theodore Roosevelt National Park's South Unit.

Sara Broers

7. Theodore Roosevelt National Park

South Unit

The entrance to the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park is found in the town of Medora. There are two self-guided nature trails that are fantastic for everyone. The Ridgeline Nature Trail and Coal Vein Trail are short and relatively easy. Wind Canyon Trail offers a tremendous view from above the Little Missouri River Valley. Each trail leads to magnificent views of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Here, you will quickly learn that the trails don’t have to go on forever for the views to be magnificent. The wild horses can be seen frequently and they are a beautiful sight within the park.

From the wildlife to the cliffs in the Badlands, the South Unit will not disappoint you. Hundreds of bison can be seen near the trails as you hike through the South Unit. Wear sturdy hiking shoes and dress in layers, as the weather can change rapidly along the trail.

North Dakota is a beautiful state in all directions. Most people don’t realize that the topography of North Dakota changes approximately every 100 miles as you cross the state. This makes for excellent outdoor hiking adventures. Anytime you plan a hike in North Dakota, you will want to be sure you look at an up-to-date-forecast before you hit the trail. Pack plenty of water, rain gear, and don’t forget your binoculars and your camera. Your experiences while hiking North Dakota are sure to lure you in. Once you are heading home off of the trail, you will more than likely be planning your next hike in this legendary state. Want to see more of North Dakota? Embark on our North Dakota road trip: Fargo to Medora, and hit your hiking spots along the way.

This article is presented by KEEN Footwear. I have been enjoying my KEEN Targhee III Waterproof Mid hiking boots in Weiss/Boysenberry. They are true to fit, have great traction, and my feet have not been too hot. In fact, they have been just right! Shop KEEN’s Targhee and other hiking shoes here.

A Visit To The Adorable Town Of Prachuap Khiri Khan, Thailand

Prachuap Khiri Khan is a fishing village roughly four hours south of Bangkok. You can get there by bus or train from Bangkok. The city is small enough that many people don’t speak English. Its temple atop the hill is what it’s best known for, but the fact that it isn’t well known is what’s really special about it.

I arrived by bus on a rainy evening, by myself. I was left in front of a row of stores. There are no taxis. It’s a good idea to get a local SIM card before you go so you can look up your hotel and figure out how to walk there. When I went, city maps weren’t readily available, so I was grateful to have Maps.me to help me get my bearings. A town square is close to the bus stop. At night, it’s full of food and candy vendors. I had no idea what most of it was but loved walking around gazing at the signs and assortment of items I could dine on.

Renting a bike is your best option for exploring the area. You can do that on the main road that passes along the waterfront. However, if you’re like me and don’t feel comfortable on a bike, or have health issues to take into consideration, I recommend you hire Chai. He’s a Prachuap resident who’s helping improve the tourist experience and will give you the most fabulous overview of everything you can see and do in his tuk-tuk. In two days, he took me all over and it was so inexpensive I gave him a tip almost as large as the cost of the service, which he tried not to accept. I’m happy to introduce you to him, or you can visit his Facebook page to see if he’s available. Here’s an idea of what to see and do if you’re lucky enough to explore this town.

The Thammikaram Worawihan Temple in Prachuap.

Heather Markel

Thammikaram Worawihan Temple And Khao Chong Krachok Arch

This is the main site in Prachuap. It’s a beautiful temple at the top of the hill in the center of town. The fact that it’s a tenuous uphill walk isn’t the real challenge, it’s the monkeys that live in the area. There are two species of monkeys in town, and the one by the temple is more aggressive. They may rob you as you go, so hike at your own risk! I watched one of the monkeys pull a side-view mirror off a car and decided not to mess with them.

A monkey trying to steal a side mirror from a car.

Heather Markel

The other site to see here is the large Buddha which is both beautiful and iconic. Luckily it’s at street level and there’s no monkey threat to get to it.

Ao Manao Beach in Prachuap.

Heather Markel

Wing 5 And Ao Manao Beach

I was surprised to learn about the military base here, and you have to travel through it to get to the beach. It’s gorgeous and well worth the strange detour. Make sure to bring your passport with you as it’s required to gain entry to and pass through the base. If you go with Chai, he’ll drop you off at the beach for a few hours, and you can walk in the sand, take photos of the beautiful scenery, and even rent a chair and relax. There are a couple of food and coffee options nearby. There’s also a small farm where you can feed goats and ostriches. It seems completely out of place but is a fun distraction.

Feeding monkeys at the Dusky Langur Colony.

Heather Markel

Dusky Langur Colony

I have to admit, this was my favorite part of Prachuap. Inside of Wing 5 and the beach is a colony of monkeys as playful as they are beautiful. Get some food in town and these monkeys will take it delicately from your hand. They are as kind and gentle as they look, and, if you’re lucky, they’ll jump on your shoulder and you can see the tiny babies clinging to their mothers.

The Wat Ao Noi temple in Prachuap.

Heather Markel

Wat Ao Noi

This is a beautiful temple with a huge wooden snake winding around it. You can take photos and admire the simple beauty it offers inside and out. As with most temples, this is a place of worship, so you should be respectful. That means wearing appropriate attire (no bare skin above the knees and no bare shoulders) and removing your shoes. Even if nobody is there to see you, it’s expected that you honor these customs.

Buddhist decor on the way to Prachuap's hidden Buddha.

Heather Markel

Hidden Buddha

I’m not sure of the official name of this place because Chai took me, and it’s not in any tourist guides I could find. There’s a house on a hill with beautiful Buddhist decor. The hike to it offers gorgeous tropical views. If you walk past the house, you’ll get to an underground cave. Take a flashlight at the entrance (make sure it works before you enter) and you can see some statues and seek out the Buddha. I have a feeling most tourists don’t hear about it, and it’s something you need a guide to show you.

Fishermen working at the Ao Noi Fishing Village.

Heather Markel

Waterfront And Ao Noi Fishing Village

The waterfront in the center of town is a great place to catch sunrise or sunset. At night, there’s a market offering souvenirs and local food. If you get to the fishing village, you might luck out and see the fisherman preparing to sail out or bringing in the day’s catch.

The entrance to Phraya Nakhon Cave.

Heather Markel

Phraya Nakhon Cave

Though not in Prachuap, a main reason to go there is to see the nearby Phraya Nakhon Cave, which has a temple inside.

For me, however, the beauty of Prachuap is how few tourists roam the streets. You can relax by the waterfront for an afternoon or walk along in the town center and feel like you’re in an authentic part of Thailand. If you hire a guide, you can see the outskirts of town and how people live.

Where To Eat

Though there are several restaurants and cafes in town, I’d suggest going to the night market and trying something unfamiliar. There’s a larger night market by the waterfront with more options than you’ll find in the town square.

The other way to dine is to explore the side streets where you’ll find smaller, lesser-known restaurants. In fact, my favorite was a place that looked like a fast-food joint someone had set up at the last minute. I can’t remember the name because there may not have been one. The menu was tiny and everything was delicious. This is a town to explore off-the-beaten-path food options rather than trying to find fine dining. Make sure you try the dried squid, which is a specialty. If, however, you want to try a restaurant, here are some recommendations.

Top Deck

If you want a nice view and a menu with some variety, eat at Top Deck. One thing to remember, everywhere in Thailand, is how spicy the food is. If you don’t like hot food, make sure to tell your waiter when you order.

Ma-Prow

I almost didn’t come here because it looks like a bar that wouldn’t have good food. But the beautiful view of the water makes it enticing, and I ended up having one of my favorite meals here: a blend of seafood over rice. Ma-Prow’s service was fairly fast, but the food was excellent and easy on the budget.

Where To Stay

One of the great things about Prachuap is how far your money will go anywhere you decide to stay.

Prachuap Grand Hotel

This hotel offers an excellent breakfast buffet and it’s well located a block off the main street and two blocks from the waterfront.

Prachuap Beach Hotel

You’ll benefit from lovely views and comfortable rooms. Guests can easily walk to lovely areas nearby. It’s right on the waterfront.

Grandma’s House

If you want a more authentic experience, try this bed and breakfast. I met people who were staying here and raved about the accommodations and the food.

This is a special place in the world that hasn’t, yet, been ruined by over-tourism. I bought a bottle of water for 7 cents. I got sunburned and had to try six pharmacies before I found someone who understood what after-sun lotion is. Amid all the overly popular Thai cities, I’m so happy to have found one that hasn’t yet let tourists rob it of its special culture.

Planning a Thai adventure? Read up on Melissa Klurman’s sleepover with elephants in Thailand’s Golden Triangle, too.

9 Things Antique Lovers Need To Know Before Visiting The Brimfield Flea Markets

Three times each year, antique dealers and bargain hunters descend on the small town of Brimfield, Massachusetts, for the Brimfield Antique Flea Markets. Open for business Tuesday through Sunday for one week in May, July, and September, the Brimfield Antique Flea Markets showcase more than 20 fields full of dealers. You will find items like sewing patterns from the 1960s, old farming tools, glassware, jewelry, vintage clothing, furniture, artwork, woodwork, metalwork, and many other curiosities.

Brimfield (as it is known in the antique circle) is not only about buying and selling — it’s an adventure in and of itself. Dealers and shoppers come together at this holy grail of antiquing, where you will meet people from all over the world. It’s about the people, the finds, the food, and the music; it’s a little bit about the competition, and a lot about the camaraderie of the thrill of hunt. You never know what glorious treasure you will find buried in an old crate.

If you’re a novice antique seeker, know that the dealers are always willing to share their copious knowledge of their goods. The atmosphere is almost carnival-like, with caravans of gypsy tents and stands set up next to RVs, tents, and sleeper vans. Many vendors stay on-site for the week, keeping close to their precious goods.

Here are nine things to know before you go.

1. Enjoy The Hunt

Armineh Stepanians, a vintage and antique jewelry dealer and owner of VintageBlingEtc, is a 30-year Brimfield veteran.

Stepanians quipped, “You never know what you will find there. I bought a ring for $17; I had a feeling it was a great piece of jewelry. When I had it independently appraised, it was estimated to be worth $450. Sometimes vendors don’t know what they are selling, and you don’t always know what you are buying.”

During her 30 years of Brimfield shopping, things have changed quite a bit. Years ago, she said, you had to rely on your expertise to determine the value of an item. Now that most people have smartphones, buyers and sellers have quality information in the palm of their hand.

It is the hunt for that elusive pot of gold that will keep bringing you back. For some, antiquing is a way of life. They buy and sell, with an eye for a great deal, and they love the rush of a fabulous find.

2. The Fields Are Independently Owned And Operated

Each of the approximately 20 different fields is independently owned and operated. Most, not all, are open in conjunction with the dates of the Brimfield Antique Flea Markets. However, some fields are only open for one, two, or three days. May’s Antique Market, for example, is only open three of the six days. You’ll need to plan your trip carefully if you have a particular field you wish to visit. The Brimfield Antique Show Fields page will offer some guidance in planning your adventure.

You will find that some vendors will set up at one field for a day or two and then in a different field for the remainder of the show. Moving to different fields helps to maximize their exposure.

Some fields charge a small entrance fee ($5 or less), but usually only on the first day.

3. The Dealers Come From Everywhere

Many dealers at Brimfield come from New England, but others come from other regions of the United States, Canada, or even Europe. You will find professional and amateur dealers with tents chock-full of treasures.

Many dealers only sell at Brimfield. They collect antiques and bric-a-brac all year to be able to have amazing finds to sell specifically at the three shows. If you find a dealer who sells items that you like, be sure to get their contact information; you might never find their booth again.

4. Shop Early For The Best Selection

If you are on the hunt for something specific, like that perfect mid-century modern kitchen table and chairs or the missing piece of your Fiestaware collection, you should shop on opening day.

To pinpoint a specific item, be there very early. Many dealers open at 6 a.m. You will find that the opening Tuesday is crowded in the morning. Dealers are putting the finishing touches on their displays while shoppers who want first pick are in the parking lot, coffee in hand, watching the sun rise.

5. Shop Late For The Best Deals

If you are a picker or are looking for a bargain, shopping on Sunday would be best for you. The dealers start to pack up after lunch, and many will be happy to sell you an item for a little less than they were willing to on Tuesday. The thought of hauling large items back to storage is not that appealing.

On Sunday afternoon, the crowds thin out, making it an opportune time to get to know the dealers you like. Many will keep an eye out for a special item you want as they search the planet for items to add to their stock.

Sunday is also a good time to come with cash, since it puts you on the better end of the bargaining table.

6. Cash Is King

Some dealers, the full-time businesses, will accept credit cards. A few dealers will accept local checks. Many will only accept cash. There are several ATMs around the fields with a $200 maximum transaction plus fees.

You will find so many items that strike you that it is almost impossible to leave empty-handed. Whether you are looking for something specific or just waiting to see what speaks to you, Stepanians suggests, “shop with a budget, since it’s very easy to go overboard.”

Shop with cash if you can. Your negotiation position is better if you have cash in hand. It is a more attractive transaction for the dealer than paying the credit card fees.

7. Park Strategically

There is parking available farther away from the fields. It is less expensive, but you’ll have to walk — a lot! One of the best parking lots is in the field along Route 20, just as you enter the Brimfield Antique Flea Markets area from the highway. The field parking fee varies by day but is around $10, which may be the best bargain of the day. It is important to keep your feet happy.

Wear comfortable, I-can-walk-all-day shoes.

8. There Are Plenty Of Dining Options

There are lots of dining options near the New England Motel & Antiques Market. You will find food carts and permanent kitchens conveniently located near all of the action. All you have to do is follow your nose. The aroma of fried dough permeates the air. You will find everything from submarine sandwiches to full-course takeaway meals.

There are plenty of picnic benches and cozy spots of grass where you can sit and munch away while people-watching. Music from a live band gives lunch the feeling of a lawn party, with new friends proudly displaying their morning treasures.

9. Pickup Is Easy

The fields are dotted with dirt roads that allow the vendors access to their sites. They’re also convenient if you need to pick up a large piece of furniture. If you feel adventurous, you can navigate your vehicle over the bumpy, stone-covered roads that are clogged with dealers and buyers to pick up your treasure. This is a better option if you pick up your item later in the day. You most likely will not be allowed to drive your vehicle in the field at the height of shopping hours.

Alternatively, you can hire a porter to carry your item to your car — for a fee, of course. This will save you driving about trying to find the dealer you purchased your item from.

Pro Tip: A few things you should pack are water, a snack, a bag to carry your small purchases, a measuring tape if you are looking for a specifically sized item, and your sense of adventure. Happy hunting!

11 Things I Wish I’d Known Before Visiting Petra

Visiting Petra, Jordan, in the rain isn’t most people’s choice — and it wasn’t really my choice either — but it had its advantages: no crowds, fewer distracting kiosks selling tchotchkes, and cascading waterfalls and rock colors made more resplendent by the water.

I planned to fly from Athens to London last February, but by the time I priced my ticket, costs had soared to $350 one way. I jumped at a $76 fare that included a 21-hour layover in Aqaba, Jordan. I’d been to Jordan five times to report from Iraq during the early days of the United States-led occupation and to report from Jordan’s refugee camps, but I’d never toured Petra. The generous layover was my chance to finally explore the 2,300-year-old city carved into rose-colored sandstone mountains that, because of its location midway between Damascus, Syria, and the Red Sea, had been an important layover for traders.

Here are a few things I wish I’d known before visiting.

Rain water rushing along a pathway in Petra, Jordan.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

1. January And February Are The Rainy Months

It didn’t just rain during my one-night layover — it snowed! Fortunately, I’d brought my winter coat and hiking boots to Greece, so I was prepared for the cold, but I wouldn’t ordinarily think of the Middle East as a place freezing enough to show my breath!

The best months to visit to avoid the scorching summer and the rainy winter are March, April, and May and September, October, and November.

2. Buy A Jordan Pass

The Jordan Pass costs only 70 Jordanian dinars for a single-day visit to Petra, and it includes free entrance to 40 other tourist sites and a tourist visa (which normally costs 40 Jordanian dinars for a single entry). Without the pass, single-day tickets to Petra cost 50 Jordanian dinars (about $71).

The Jordan Pass can only be purchased online and must be purchased before your trip.

However, the Jordan Pass might not make sense if you enter through the southern port city of Aqaba, where visa costs are waived if you stay at least 48 hours. If you leave within 48 hours, you’ll be charged the visa cost upon departure.

The "back door" hike in Petra, Jordan.

lrosebrugh / Shutterstock

3. Take The ‘Back Door’

Apparently, there are two “back doors,” or back entrances, to Petra that the Bedouins use. The biggest benefit of entering from the back is that you avoid climbing uphill all day as you hike from the main entrance to the Great Temple, which is at the far end of the accessible part of the archaeological site. It’s also a good way to avoid the cruise-ship crunch of tourists who usually stop midway at the Treasury.

The entrance I never found feeds into the top of the Monastery, one of the key sites (and climbs) of Petra. The “back door” I entered was about a half-hour walk from the Bedouin Camp, and it took me another hour to reach the Great Temple. It was tough to find on my own; I asked for directions several times.

Contrary to what you might read elsewhere on the internet, you can enter through the back door without a guide, but you will need a ticket.

4. Bring Your Own Food And Water

You pay for location! The Crowne Plaza, located at the foot of the trail to the Monastery, has a restaurant that offers a buffet lunch for 17 Jordanian dinars, or a whopping $24. Water, tea, and snacks are readily available throughout the archaeological sites at Bedouin kiosks — but expect to pay a premium. To save money, bring your own food and water.

Tourists exploring Petra, Jordan.

volkova natalia / Shutterstock

5. Consider Hiring A Guide

All the advice I received was to not hire a guide. And certainly it’s not necessary. Each of the sites has an interesting description in English, and free maps are available at each entrance. But a licensed guide can offer insights into Bedouin culture, reveal secret tombs and not-easily-seen details, take you through shortcuts accessible only if you are guided, and help in an emergency.

It rained so hard the day I toured Petra that the park flooded in areas. I was alone, but thankfully, another tourist’s guide gave me valuable updated information: The park was closing because of the flooding, and I wouldn’t be able to reach the front gate; I’d need to leave through the back entrance from where I came.

By then, it was raining pretty steadily, and I was not relishing an hour’s walk to the nearest accessible exit. Fortunately, a group of tourists (and their guide) offered me a ride in their truck, taking me out of the archaeological site and through the adjacent town to the main entrance, where my taxi driver met me.

A donkey in the rain in Petra, Jordan.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

6. Don’t Ride Donkeys, Horses, Or Camels

Although it’s tempting to fall for the romance of riding a camel around Petra’s ancient temples, please resist. There are many reports of camels, horses, and donkeys who are beaten with pipes and whips, left in the searing sun with no water, or suffer from festering wounds from too-tight harnesses. While there are undoubtedly responsible animal owners, there are no animal welfare regulations to guarantee these working animals’ protection, according to SPANA, a nonprofit organization that works in communities to provide free veterinary care, education, and animal-friendly harnesses.

The writer having tea at a Bedouin camp in Petra.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

7. Stay At A Bedouin Camp Instead Of A Chain Hotel

I stayed at the Little Petra Bedouin Camp in a comfy bed with a private bathroom. The breakfast buffet with omelet station cost only 5 euros ($6). Had I arrived earlier in the evening, I would have been treated to a Bedouin music concert!

Planning an overnight stay near the archaeological site gives you an extra day to explore the temples, tombs, caves, and ingenious water system spread over nearly 300 square miles.

8. Stop For Tea

My friend Rita Golden Gelman, who traveled full time from her 40s into her 70s and wrote Tales of a Female Nomad, has a rule: Take all food and drink that’s offered.

Although I suspected the Bedouins’ constant offers of tea were a sales gimmick meant to stall me long enough for them to show off their wares, I took every steaming glass offered. Especially as I ascended the rugged path to the Monastery in the cold rain, I welcomed the opportunity to warm my freezing hands, catch my breath, dry my wet boots by the fire, and chat a bit. I found that after it became clear I wasn’t interested in their goods, but in them, the Bedouins relaxed and shared a bit about their lives. This was the highlight of my time in Petra!

The famous Monastery in Petra, Jordan.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

9. Don’t Hike To The Monastery

Aside from all the tea-drinking opportunities along the way, the Monastery — Petra’s largest monument and a must-see for many tourists — was a huge disappointment for me. Reports vary as to the exact number of “steps” one must climb to get there, but that’s not surprising once you see that the “steps” are a broad range of slippery slopes, broken stairs, gravelly paths, and sheer rocks spread over the 656 feet to the top. My wet hike also included mid-calf forges in fast-running streams.

The Monastery is often compared to the Treasury, the more accessible and best-known monument in Petra. (It was a backdrop for the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.) If you’re not a big hiker, soak in the Treasury instead and save yourself a sweat-soaking climb that also involves coming down the treacherous path on a 1.6-mile round trip.

During my visit, I reached the Monastery moments before fog enshrouded it.

10. Be Prepared For The Altitude

Petra is perched at about 2,700 feet. Expect to be a bit winded while climbing, a bit more thirsty than usual, and a bit more sensitive to sunburn.

In fact, it was Petra’s altitude that prevented me from stopping during a previous trip to Jordan, since I had been scuba diving in Aqaba. It’s recommended to wait 12 hours after multiple days of diving to climb above 2,000 feet. I was en route to Amman to catch my plane, so Petra had to remain on my bucket list.

Ruins in Petra, Jordan.

Kelly Hayes-Raitt

11. You Don’t Need To Climb To Enjoy Petra

Many intrepid souls happily clamber up the crumbling steps of the Great Temple (I did!) or trudge up to the Monastery. But Petra is pretty awe-inspiring from the ground, too. The Treasury is more than 130 feet high — quite a marvel when viewed from its base, I imagine. The Siq, the ancient irrigation system, is said to be quite exciting, with a new view around every twist of the deep, narrow gorge. I missed those last two stops, as I was evacuated before I could reach them.

Nevertheless, walking down the Street of Facades and touching the remarkably colorful swirls on the sandstone walls, I imagined Petra in its heyday — from the fourth century B.C. to the fourth century A.D. — when adventurous, dusty, and exhausted traders would saunter down this same street, glad, as I was, to finally reach this desert oasis.

For more to see and do in Jordan, see this page.

Chiricahua National Monument: 9 Things To Know Before Visiting

In a land of amazing rock formations, Chiricahua National Monument stands out.

After all, it’s Arizona’s top spot to see hoodoos, the thin spires of rock that seem to dance above the dry earth. And at Chiricahua, a series of rugged trails will get you right into the Heart of Rocks, where rhyolite pinnacles rise all around.

At first sight, Chiricahua National Monument in southeastern Arizona is all jagged cliffs, gnarly trees, and dusty bluffs.

But venture in deeper, and you’ll soon be surrounded by rocks, hundreds of them — balancing, standing, and spread about like hailstones.

It is the abundance of unusual rock formations that gives the national monument its nickname, Wonderland of Rocks. And it’s the rocks that make Chiricahua National Monument worthy of the long trip to get there.

Still, there is plenty more to this Arizona treasure to keep you interested once you’re there.

Here are nine things to know before you go.

The entrance sign to Chiricahua National Monument.

Cindy Barks

1. It’s A Year-Round Destination

At just over a mile high in elevation, Chiricahua National Monument enjoys fairly mild weather year round. Spring is the optimal time to visit, with high temperatures ranging from the mid-60s in March to the low-80s in May. Autumn is also mild, with highs reaching the mid-80s in September and the mid-70s in October.

As with many Arizona locations, the summers are hot, but the average highs are considerably cooler than those in the desert cities of Tucson and Phoenix. June tends to be the hottest, with average highs in the low 90s, and July and August average in the high 80s.

Expect fairly heavy monsoon rains in July, August, and September. “Nearly every afternoon from July into September, thunderstorms occur in the area,” says the monument’s website.

Winters are cool but usually comfortable, with average highs in the 50s and 60s throughout December, January, and February. Snowstorms can occur from late fall through early spring, but snow accumulations tend to melt rapidly.

Views on the way to Chiricahua National Monument.

Cindy Barks

2. It’s Remote

At about 2 hours southeast of Tucson and 4 hours northwest of El Paso, Texas, Chiricahua National Monument can feel like it’s in the middle of nowhere.

That is compounded by the somewhat lonely drive southeast after leaving Interstate 10. Although the drive from the Interstate 10 town of Willcox takes only about 40 minutes, the desolate ranchland stretching on both sides of the two-lane Highway 186 makes the drive seem solitary.

It’s beautiful in its own panoramic way, though — especially in the spring, when the desert floor is carpeted in green, and the tips of spiny ocotillo cacti are aflame with red flowers.

The graveyard at Faraway Ranch.

Cindy Barks

3. There’s History Along The Way

In tune with the views that could be straight out of a Western movie is the region’s turbulent 19th-century history. About 20 miles southeast of Willcox is a turnoff for the Fort Bowie National Historic Site.

The fort site is tranquil these days, but 25 years of conflict played out between the United States Army and the Chiricahua Apache tribe throughout the late 1800s. “Today, this peaceful landscape stands in stark contrast to the violence that once gripped this land,” says the historic site’s website.

The remains of the 1860s fort and cemetery are preserved at the historic site, and a 1.5-mile moderate hike (3 miles round trip) takes visitors to the visitor center and old fort ruins.

Note that reaching the fort from the Chiricahua National Monument requires an 8-mile drive over a dusty dirt road. An alternative route is available from Interstate 10 about 23 miles east of Willcox.

Stafford Cabin at Faraway Ranch.

Cindy Barks

4. Ranching Is At The Heart Of It

The first thing you will see upon entering Chiricahua National Monument is a small wrought-iron fenced graveyard, where a sign tells the story of the Erickson family, the pioneer settlers of the land. According to the sign, Swedish immigrants Neil and Emma Erickson established the first homestead at the site soon after marrying in 1887.

In the shade along the nearby Bonita Creek, the intrepid settlers founded Faraway Ranch, the remains of which are preserved not far from the monument entrance. Several ranch houses have been preserved, including the Stafford Cabin, a log structure that sits at the base of the mountain, and the guest house that Neil and Emma’s daughter Lillian built, along with her husband Ed Riggs, in 1923.

“Together they operated a guest ranch where visitors could enjoy the beauty of this ‘wonderland of rocks,’” says the sign. The interest they generated in the area led to the formation of the national monument in 1924.

Deer crazing in a field near the banks of Bonita Creek.

Cindy Barks

5. Wildlife Is All Around

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself sharing the trails with a range of wild animals. When I visited in late April, I watched a herd of a half dozen or more deer graze near the banks of Bonita Creek.

Later, as I walked the creek trail between the visitor center and Faraway Ranch, I was startled when a raccoon-like animal that I later identified as a white-nosed coati (native to the area) sprang up alongside the trail, staring at me with its dark-rimmed eyes, its thick brown tail sticking straight up.

Black bears are also said to roam the Chiricahua Mountains, along with rattlesnakes and a range of migrating birds.

A sign about the CCC near Chiricahua National Monument.

Cindy Barks

6. Depression-Era Workers Left A Legacy

More than 80 years ago, a small army of young men from Arizona and Texas converged on the rugged land to construct the buildings, trails, and roads of the national monument. They were part of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), a work effort that President Franklin Roosevelt created to help solve the economic woes of the Great Depression.

Today, many of the CCC features remain, including the network of trails through the rocks. A sign along the creek trail says that 180 CCC enrollees arrived in June 1934 to develop the park, and they certainly left their mark.

“The picturesque canyons, spires, and balanced rocks of Chiricahua National Monument are the products of nature, but the roads and trails that lead to them are primarily the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps, or CCC,” says the sign.

The Lower Rhyolite Trail in Chiricahua National Monument.

Cindy Barks

7. Hiking Opportunities Abound

Ed Riggs, who served as a CCC foreman, is said to have designed the Chiricahua National Monument trail system to give the best possible views of the park features. Many of those trails endure today in the 17-mile system that takes hikers up and down canyons, along ridgelines, and past gravity-defying rock spires.

Hikes range from flat creekside walks to rugged routes with numerous rock steps. Here are a few of the best.

Easy Hikes

Following the banks of pretty Bonita Creek, the 1.2-mile Silver Spur Meadow Trail takes walkers from the Faraway Ranch, past the Stafford Cabin, and to the monument visitor center. The creek is intermittent and is often dry, but the trees along the route offer cool shade on a warm day. The walk takes less than an hour.

Moderate Hikes

The 3.3-mile Echo Canyon Loop winds through spectacular rock formations, including the Grottoes and Wallstreet, along the Hailstone Trail, and through the densely wooded Echo Park. Expect to spend about 2 hours on the loop.

Strenuous Hikes

The iconic Heart of Rocks hike consists of a round trip of 7.3 miles and more than 1,500 feet in elevation gain. For fit and adventurous hikers, it’s a must-do at Chiricahua National Monument. The hike starts at the visitor center and follows the scenic Rhyolite Canyon, the Sarah Deming Trail, and the Heart of Rocks Loop. It takes in amazing rock formations such as Big Balanced Rock, Totem Pole, and Punch and Judy. The rigorous hike can take up to 5 hours to complete.

For those who want to do everything, there’s the Big Loop, a demanding 9.5-mile route that takes in the Echo Canyon, Upper Rhyolite, Sarah Deming, Heart of Rocks, Big Balanced Rock, Inspiration Point, Mushroom Rock, and Ed Riggs Trails. It’s an all-day adventure, and the monument website suggests taking along extra food and water.

Views of Chiricahua National Monument form Massai Point.

Rosemarie Mosteller / Shutterstock

8. The Scenic Drive Offers Sweeping Views

A narrow 8-mile scenic road winds through the park, offering glimpses of many of the monument’s rock formations. From the entrance, the route climbs steadily, past the visitor center, the campground, and several roadside viewpoints. It ends at Massai Point, where several trails branch off into ravines and rock formations.

Massai Point, at an elevation of 6,870 feet, offers sweeping views of the surrounding rocks. Early National Park Service officials reportedly saw it as a major landscape viewing opportunity and built a road, as well as trails, to the high plateau.

9. Accommodations And Dining Options Are Limited

With a population of less than 4,000, Willcox, the closest town to the national monument, has a fairly limited number of hotels, but it does have a number of chain choices, including a Holiday Inn Express & Suites and a SureStay Plus by Best Western. More accommodation options are available in Benson, just over an hour away, and Tucson, about 2 hours away.

For RVers and tent campers, the monument offers the scenic Bonita Canyon Campground. Reservations can be made through Recreation.gov.

When it comes to dining, Mexican fare is your best bet. Willcox has several Mexican restaurants, including Isabel’s South of the Border and Tortilleria Taqueria La Unica.

Or, before heading out on a long day of hiking at Chiricahua National Monument, plan to stock up on snacks and picnic fixings at Willcox’s Safeway.

Scenic New Mexico Road Trip: Albuquerque To Las Cruces

From snow-capped mountains and thick pine forests in the north to craggy deserts and the world’s largest gypsum dunefield in the south, New Mexico certainly earns its nickname, the Land of Enchantment. One of the best ways to experience New Mexico’s varied scenery is by taking a road trip between Albuquerque and Las Cruces, the state’s two largest cities.

While my favorite time of year to make this trip is in the spring, when everything is in bloom and stormy weather ushers in dramatic skies and the delicious fragrance of rain in the desert, it’s still a fun drive during the other three seasons of the year.

These are the best stops on a New Mexico road trip from Albuquerque to Las Cruces.

The skyline of Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Sean Pavone / Shutterstock

Albuquerque

New Mexico’s biggest metro area is located in the heart of the state where Interstates 40 and 25 crisscross, dividing the city into four quadrants. Albuquerque is well known for hosting the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta each October, but there’s so much more to see and do before hitting the road and heading south.

Established more than 300 years ago, Albuquerque is one of the oldest cities in America. Travel back in time by visiting the Petroglyph National Monument and hiking along volcanic rocks decorated with prehistoric images of animals and scenes of everyday life chiseled by an ancient civilization. Learn about the Pueblo tribes native to the area at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. Or stroll through Albuquerque’s historic Old Town, where adobe buildings and the beautiful San Felipe de Neri Church date to the late 1700s.

Don’t leave Albuquerque without riding to the top of Sandia Peak on the longest aerial tram on this side of the Atlantic. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more breathtaking view of the Duke City, especially if you visit at the end of the day as the sun sets.

Belen

Located in the small town of Belen, about 35 miles south of Albuquerque, is the Belen Harvey House Museum. Long before airplanes and an interstate highway system made movement between cities fast and convenient, Americans traveled by train. And this museum provides a glimpse back at the time when the Santa Fe Hotel was remodeled into a Harvey House and young women in long black dresses and crisp white aprons efficiently served guests freshly brewed coffee and wholesome meals throughout the day.

Sevilleta National Wildlife Refuge

Continuing south along Interstate 25, the Sevilleta National Wildlife Refuge is about 25 miles south of Belen. Drive through the 230,000-acre park or hike one of its trails, keeping an eye out for mule deer, coyotes, pronghorn antelope, and prairie dogs.

As you explore, watch for colorful native flowers and flowering plants of all shapes and colors between April and October. You’ll see bell-shaped blooms along the spiky stems of yucca plants and the soft petals of evening primrose close to the rocky ground. In late summer, look for patches of bright yellow prairie sunflowers.

The Very Large Array at the National Radio Astronomy Observatory.

Manamana / Shutterstock

National Radio Astronomy Observatory

The next stop on this road trip from Albuquerque to Las Cruces requires a small detour, but this unique experience is so worth it! About 50 miles west of Socorro, stop at the National Radio Astronomy Observatory to see the Very Large Array (VLA), one of the most advanced radio telescope arrays on Earth.

Begin your visit with a stop at the visitor center, where Contact actress Jodie Foster narrates an award-winning documentary about the site. Then explore the exhibits that detail the work being conducted on-site and take a self-guided tour to the base of one of the massive dishes.

Sandhill cranes flying over the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge.

Martha Marks / Shutterstock

Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge

Returning to Interstate 25 and traveling south from Socorro, the next stop is the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. Nestled between the Chupadera and San Pascual Mountains, this 57,330-acre refuge was established as a safe haven for migrating birds like sandhill cranes and as a winter home for a variety of geese and ducks.

Explore the refuge via its 12-mile auto tour route that is open from just before sunrise to just after sunset year-round. Or hit the trails to observe the sanctuary’s scenery, greenery, and wildlife more closely.

 Spaceport America in New Mexico.
Mia2you / Shutterstock.com

Truth Or Consequences

From the Roswell incident back in 1947 to the 27 massive telescopes in the desert west of Socorro, New Mexico has strong ties to outer space. So it’s not surprising that the organization seeking to make space travel as accessible to all as air travel is today is located here.

As with all federally licensed airport facilities, Spaceport America is closed to the public. However, the Spaceport America Visitor Center in Truth or Consequences, about an hour south of the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, is one of two departure points for a behind-the-scenes guided tour. Because space is limited and tours fill up quickly, be sure to plan ahead if you want to experience the G-Shock simulator, observe mission control, and get a hangar photo opportunity. These are experiences you won’t want to miss on your New Mexico road trip.

Originally named Hot Springs, the town that is home to the Spaceport America Visitor Center was renamed for a radio quiz show as part of a contest. Host Ralph Edwards promised to broadcast an episode from the town that agreed to change its name to match the name of the program, and so Hot Springs became Truth or Consequences in March of 1950.

The statue of Uncle Sam holding a chili in Hatch.

Sage Scott

Hatch

Although you can find red and green chiles on nearly every menu and decorating license plates all over the state, the little town of Hatch is the official Chile Capital of the World. About halfway between Truth or Consequences and the last stop on this road trip, stop in Hatch to fill up on these flavorful peppers.

Grab a green chile cheeseburger, chile cheese dog, or another delicious option smothered in Hatch green chiles at Sparky’s. There’s often a long wait to enjoy the dishes created by James Beard semifinalists Josie and Teako Nunn, but taking in the quirky decor inside and outside the establishment will keep you busy until your food arrives.

Stock up on everything from flame-roasted whole chiles, chile powder, and green chile sauce to decorative ristras and wreaths at one of the boutiques in this small New Mexico town. We love Hatch Chile Express, Grajeda Hatch Chile Market, and Chile Fanatic.

Pro Tip: If you now have a hankering for all things chile, order now through the online stores!

Hiking in Las Cruces, New Mexico.

Sage Scott

Las Cruces

In the fertile Mesilla Valley, framed by the rugged Organ Mountains, the final stop on this New Mexico road trip is about 200 miles south of Albuquerque. The name is Spanish for “The Crosses,” and there are several theories about how Las Cruces got its name. Some say it was in honor of a collection of crosses marking the graves of explorers many years ago, while others believe it’s a nod to the city’s location as a crossroads. Either way, here are a few things to see and do in Las Cruces.

Embrace the city’s agricultural heritage by visiting the New Mexico Farm and Ranch Heritage Museum, where you can learn more about the state’s cotton, pecan, and dairy farmers — and watch a dairy cow being milked in one of the many live demonstrations. Las Cruces is also home to the state’s land-grant university, New Mexico State, which includes the Chile Pepper Institute.

Like other destinations on this New Mexico road trip, Las Cruces offers many wonderful places to hike, bike, or walk to soak up the sun and enjoy the scenery. Climb Tortugas Mountain (locally known as “A” Mountain after the NMSU Aggies), or hike Dripping Springs. Enjoy a leisurely stroll around Veterans Memorial Park, or admire the massive carved wooden sculpture Dineh at Apodaca Park.

Pro Tip: While it’s about an hour northeast of Las Cruces (and therefore outside the scope of this road trip), try to incorporate a day trip to White Sands National Park if you’re in the area. Exploring the cool white gypsum dunes of this natural wonder is truly a unique experience.

What To Know Before You Go

The average altitude in New Mexico is 5,700 feet above sea level. Be sure to drink plenty of water and follow this advice to avoid altitude sickness.

If you purchase green chile sauce, salsa, or other jarred treats to take home, be sure to carefully pack them into your checked luggage if you are returning home by air.

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