When you think of Jamaica, popular places like Dunn’s River Falls, the Seven Mile Beach, Rose Hall Great House, Rick’s Café, and the Bob Marley Museum likely come to mind. For sure they are among the island’s landmarks and you should experience them. But, as special as they are, there’s so much more to the Jamaica story. When you go where the crowds aren’t, you’ll be in for some awesome surprises.
The last few years I’ve been exploring and I still have so much to see. The further afield I go, the more interesting it gets. Here are some spots I’ve discovered and others on my “must-go” list.
1. Likkle Portie
This, for sure, is one of my favorite places in Jamaica. Likkle Portie is a little restaurant in tiny Hope Bay, about a 90-minute drive from Ocho Rios in the parish of Portland. It’s a place locals love. This is a chill spot, not fussy. The food is cooked in a little hut as well as an open fire. Dine outside at one of the picnic tables or gazebos. The restaurant is right on the water where the Daniel River spills into the Caribbean Sea — enough said.
The river-beach combo amid the greenery is peaceful. Reggae is playing, but not blasting. You can hear yourself think as you stare in the river. There likely won’t be but a few people around. The home-cooked food puts you squarely in the comfort zone. Maybe try the brown stewed fish, escovitch fish, or curried lobster that may have been taken from the fishing boats that pass in front of the restaurant. The food is tasty and inexpensive, as are the drinks. Likkle Portie is food for the body and soul.
2. Reach Falls
Let the masses go to Dunn’s River Falls. Reach Falls in Manchioneal is Instagram-worthy too, and without the big crowds. This is yet another reason to go to the parish of Portland. Reach Falls is in the eastern part of the parish and is one of four local falls. It has underwater caves, a heart-shaped Jacuzzi, mountain views, and crazy beautiful vegetation — jungle-like, towering trees, yet also much flower power.
These falls are special. I stepped in one way and came out another. There’s something healing and invigorating in those waters.
3. Trench Town
Trench Town is touted as the birthplace of reggae music. Bob Marley, Peter Tosh, and Bunny Wailer had roots in this Kingston neighborhood. Greatness sprouted from humble beginnings. In the 1940s, the government’s Central Housing Authority started a public housing project on land called “Trench Pen” and constructed government yards/tenements with shared resources.
For a step back in time, visit Trench Town & Culture Yard, which was once home to Marley and community leader Vincent “Tata” Ford, who taught Marley to play the guitar. Marley songs like “No Woman, No Cry” and “Natty Dread” tell the story of life there. The restored original 1940s buildings house a small museum that shares the history through articles, instruments, and furnishings used by Ford, Marley, Tosh, and Wailer. Trench Town & Culture Yard was designated a protected national heritage site in 2007.
4. Winnifred Beach
Everyone raves about Doctor’s Cave Beach in Montego Bay and Negril’s Seven Mile Beach. I love those, but I love this slice of Jamaica’s sand and sea too. This public beach in Port Antonio is cherished by locals and the vibe is authentic Jamaica. You can be sure the reggae music will be playing. If it’s the weekend, you’ll see families at play, as well as couples chilling and the young ladies taking countless selfies.
The aroma of food permeates the air from the vendors nearby. Get ready for jerk chicken, rice and peas, and on a Saturday, you’ll be sure to find someone cooking soup — as that is the tradition in Jamaica. You may want to do a little shopping from the artisans who have stands. It’s like a little village. I bet you’ll remember your time here months after you’re back home.
5. Kanopi House
Jamaica is known for its mega, all-inclusive resorts. But then there’s Kanopi House in San San, in the parish of Portland. This is an eco-friendly luxury treehouse boutique resort nestled in a jungle of 100-foot banyan trees. The view from the secluded hillside that overlooks the Blue Lagoon is the kind that takes a hold of your brain and your heart and stays there. Make your way around the property via stairs, winding bamboo, and pathways with ginger lilies and an array of flora and fauna. It’s downright dreamy, just like your treehouse. Think luxury and comfort. The bed is the kind you never want to get out of. Lounge at the lagoon, take a tour, kayak, or let the concierge know you’d like to have a boat take you to nearby Monkey Island for a picnic on the beach.
The Living Room is an open-air restaurant, bar, and chill-out spot. Often on Saturday evenings, there is live music. Even after you’ve finished your meal of authentic Jamaican dishes — like coconut curry chicken, ginger scallion fish, ackee, green banana, and callaloo — you’ll find reasons to linger, and it’s not just the library. The views of the Caribbean Sea from on high are sensational, especially in the evening over an oh so romantic candlelight meal.
6. Floyd’s Pelican Bar
This is something to see. You hop on a boat at Treasure Beach and take a 20-minute ride to the Pelican Bar — a mishmash of pieces of driftwood and a makeshift hut over the water. It’s the coolest thing ever. You can have a drink, a Red Stripe, or rum punch, of course, and jump right in the water below.
Check out the local arts and crafts in the hut and have your name engraved in one of the wooden benches to let the world know you were there. We, of course, had to sign our John Hancock on one. It doesn’t get much better than this. Score one for the parish of St. Elizabeth!
7. Roaring River Cave
Petersfield, Jamaica, is where you’ll find the Roaring River Cave. It’s about 45 minutes outside of Negril. This is off the beaten path for sure and it’s well worth going to. I’m the biggest chicken, but I keep going in caves. This one is amazing and your eyes may play tricks on you (mine did). I swore I saw birds and other animals, and even a mermaid engraved in the rock formations. What I saw that was real was the bats; I just tried to ignore them. The cave is beautiful and kinda creepy too, like somebody’s watching you. But it’s big fun.
8. Blue Hole Mineral Spring
While folks are wilding out cliff jumping at Rick’s Café in Negril, about 30 minutes from there in Little Bay, you can do the same with less fanfare at the Blue Hole Mineral Spring. Jump in from a 22-foot cliff if you dare, or if not, take a ladder down to the chilly, refreshing mineral springs that are 35 feet deep. You can swim or float in the massive pool. It is said that the mud around the pool has all sorts of healing properties.
9. Hope Royal Botanic Gardens
History runs deep. This 200-plus-acre site in Kingston was once part of Major Richard Hope’s estate. He was one of the English officers who helped capture Jamaica from the Spanish in 1655, for which he was rewarded with this parcel of land. The property was once a sugar plantation.
Hope Royal Botanic Gardens includes three gardens. Sunken Garden is semi-enclosed and where couples often marry or where posh cocktail parties and dinners are held. The Peace Garden is beloved for its waterfall, meditation labyrinth, and gazebo. The star attraction, however, is the Chinese Gardens. They are on 11 acres of land along the Blue Mountain range. It was built and given to Jamaica as a gift for its 50th anniversary of independence in 2012 and to commemorate 40 years of a diplomatic relationship between China and Jamaica. There’s plenty to see, like architectural touches reminiscent of the Chinese Forbidden City; The Spirit Wall at the entry gate that symbolizes the countries’ friendship; and The Seat of Heaven, a replica of the one built by the Ming Dynasty in 1530, which covers more than a quarter-mile and is 17 feet high. Here, you get a history lesson and beauty too.
