Beautiful Heidelberg, Germany: Where To Stay, Eat, And Play

Heidelberg, Germany, is a city packed with beauty and history. It’s said to have inspired the German Romantic Movement, and it’s an inspirational place to visit today, too. The Old Town along the river is quite walkable with its lanes filled with shops and cafes.

Here are some highlights of Heidelberg you won’t want to miss.

The medieval ramparts on the Old Bridge. — Sharon Odegaard

What To Do In Heidelberg

Stroll Across The Old Bridge

The graceful arched bridge of Heidelberg, known as the Old Bridge, connects the banks of the Neckar River and is a well-known landmark of Heidelberg. I had been intrigued for some time by photos of the bridge, and it was one of the reasons I decided to visit the city.

The current bridge is the ninth to have been constructed on the site. Earlier versions made of wood burned, but this one, built in 1788 of sandstone, survived. The tall, white ramparts on the town side date to a medieval iteration of the bridge. They are visible from near and far.

The Old Bridge in Heidelberg, Germany. — Sharon Odegaard

As you stroll along the bridge, you’ll see a sculpture of the Roman goddess Minerva, along with sculptures representing important rivers. On the town side of the bridge beside the towers, a bronze sculpture of a monkey holding a mirror is a popular attraction. It’s said that if you touch its horns, you will return to Heidelberg — and if you touch the mirror, you’ll become rich. How can you pass that up?

Pro Tip: Go to the Old Bridge at sunrise. I walked from my hotel by myself and found only two others on the bridge, after fighting crowds of people the day before. Later in the day I went back, and the bridge was once again teeming with people. Go early, catch the light on the shimmering river, and enjoy the calm of this historic place. It’s unforgettable.

Heidelberg Castle in Old Town. — Sharon Odegaard

Explore Heidelberg Castle

Perched on a hill above the Old Town, Heidelberg Castle is beautiful in all lights. See it from a distance first, and then plan to visit. Sitting serenely above the town, this romantic ruin of a castle stands watch today as it has since the 13th century. It’s built of red sandstone, which gives its many buildings a unified look.

The castle has a dark history. The troubles date to the reign of Frederick V, who in 1619 seized the throne of Bohemia. Novelist Victor Hugo wrote of the castle’s “battles and never-ending tribulations” and its suffering under siege by the Austrians and others. Finally, in 1689, the towers and walls that had survived waves of destruction were blown up by the French. Much later, after much debate, the Germans agreed to preserve the castle as a ruin rather than restore it.

Set aside half a day to wander through the castle’s roofless rooms and its gardens. Tours are offered for a small fee. These will take you inside the Friedrich Building, which shows what the castle was like when life here was elegant.

The German Apothecary Museum inside the castle contains the fully preserved interiors of historic apothecaries of the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. Did you know that in the 16th century, pulverized mummy was used as a remedy for coughs, sore throats, broken hearts, shivers, and headaches?

A small cafe with an old brick oven sits in the courtyard. I enjoyed a tasty lunch at the end of our tour. And of course, there’s German beer! You can also pick up a coffee or a quick lunch at a food stand outside the castle entrance.

For more information about hours and tickets, visit the Heidelberg Castle website. You can also learn more about the displays and the history of the castle.

Views from the funicular in Heidelberg. — Sharon Odegaard

Catch A Ride On The Funicular

The Heidelberg funicular railway whisks you from the Kornmarkt of the Old Town up the hill to the castle. You can also stay on for a longer ride up the mountain for breathtaking views.

If you have time, go to the top of the forested hills on the day you plan to see the castle. I arrived right as the funicular opened and purchased a ticket for the castle entrance and a ride to the top. It was remarkably uncrowded.

As you leave the station, you’ll see the Neckar Valley spread out below, as well as the market square and the iconic bridge with its medieval ramparts. When you arrive at the castle level, you can either get off and go to the castle or change to a different railcar.

A funicular car in Heidelberg, Germany. — Sharon Odegaard

If you choose to go on, you will then ascend the hill on one of the oldest electric funicular railways. At the end of the line, about 2,000 feet above the town, a small viewing area allows you to look across the Lower Rhine as far as the Palatinate Wine Route. A tiny museum and a cafe are located at this station. You can hike from here, too, on trails in the hills.

For information about the funicular and options to ride, visit the website. Your ticket will allow you to ride up the hill either before or after your castle tour.

Pro Tip: You can walk from the town to the castle, but it’s quite an effort, and riding the funicular is more fun. I recommend riding up and then walking down from the castle after you’ve toured it. Downhill, it’s an easy 20-minute walk back to the Old Town.

The writer hiking the Philosphers' Walk in Heidelberg. — Sharon Odegaard

Hike Up The Philosophers’ Walk

The Philosophers’ Walk, a steep path winding up from the Neckar River, provides amazing views of the river, the Old Town on the other bank, and the castle on the opposite hillside. You’ll be huffing and puffing, but the views are worth the climb.

The name is said to come from the fact that Heidelberg University professors and philosophers once walked here as they discussed their ideas. The university, founded in 1388, is the oldest in Germany and one of the oldest in Europe. Scholars have walked this stone path for more than 600 years, and you can follow in their footsteps. The solitude of the forest and the amazing glimpses of the city are thought to have provided much food for thought.

Notice that the old stone walls and stairways are held together without mortar.

The Philosophers' Garden in Heidelberg. — Sharon Odegaard

Stop and catch your breath in the Philosophers’ Garden. This is a cleared area of lawn with flower beds and benches. Sit, relax, and enjoy the pleasant vistas below.

See The Students’ Prison At Heidelberg University

Heidelberg University students who committed minor violations between 1778 and 1914 ended up in this small detention building in the Augustinergasse area of the city. Bored and creative, the students decorated the walls and ceilings with colorful art. The prison is preserved and open to the public.

Students spent three days to a month in the jail for each infraction. Infractions included insulting authorities and participating in duels. This unusual museum showcases a little slice of university history, and you can tour it in less than half an hour.

The Kornmarkt in Heidelberg, Germany. — Iordanis / Shutterstock

Relax In The Kornmarkt

The Kornmarkt, a large, bustling square that was once the center of trade activity in the region, serves as a central place in the Old Town to relax and take in the sights. You can shop for chocolate at the Lindt store, grab a coffee and sit outside in the sunshine, or linger over a meal in one of the many sidewalk cafes.

From the Kornmarkt, you’ll enjoy a clear view of the castle on the hill. The square is defined on one side by Saint Peter’s Church and on another by a lovely building that once served as a palace. Taking center stage in the Kornmarkt is a sculpture of the Madonna, placed in the middle of the square in 1685 as a symbol of the Catholic faith. People from all over the world still appreciate its beauty.

Goldener Hecht in Heidelberg, Germany. — Sharon Odegaard

Where To Eat In Heidelberg

Heidelberg offers plenty of dining options. If you are lucky enough to be there when the weather is nice, join the crowds and eat outside at one of the many sidewalk restaurants. When I’m in Germany, I sometimes have to search a bit to find vegetarian options. Here are some of my favorite places; they all have dishes for those who want to pass on the typical sausage and veal entrees.

Goldener Hecht

Just steps from the medieval towers of the bridge, Goldener Hecht has occupied this coveted spot since 1717. Sure, it’s in a busy tourist area, but it’s a great place to enjoy a first lunch in the city and take in the culture. The German food includes wienerschnitzel with potato salad and goulash with spaetzle. I ordered the vegetarian mushroom entree, and it was delicious.

Backhaus

This cafe is on the castle grounds and makes a memorable place for lunch after a morning of touring the castle buildings. Backhaus, or Bakehouse, centers on an old baking chimney. Regional foods are served on the sun terrace in good weather. The prices are reasonable, which surprised me, since it’s near a top tourist site. Sit under the trees on a balmy day and enjoy pasta, salad, schnitzel, sausages, or potato soup. The cakes and ice cream are a great way to end your feast.

If you eat outside, ask to go in and see the historic chimney before you leave. It’s larger than you might imagine!

Trattoria Toscana

This Italian restaurant, located on a side street off the Kornmarkt, offers both indoor and sidewalk dining. It’s close to the river and is an ideal spot for people-watching. After sampling lots of heavy German food, I was ready for an Italian option. Trattoria Toscana came through with cuisine, wine, and location that were perfect for my last dinner in Heidelberg.

Where To Stay In Heidelberg

Hotel Am Rathaus

This hotel is around the corner from the Kornmarkt, so it is a great base for a visit to the Old Town. The rooms at Hotel am Rathaus are comfortable, and you can start your day with a small but nourishing breakfast buffet.

The front desk staff truly went above and beyond for me during my stay. I arrived in Heidelberg as a change in itinerary due to weather, and I hadn’t researched the town in my usual way. The young lady at the desk took out maps and advised us on itinerary options and routes, and we were good to go!

Whatever your interests, you are sure to find something fascinating to see and do — and eat! — in Heidelberg.

How To Spend A Day In Fascinating Carcassonne, France

We visited Carcassonne as part of a barge cruise down the Canal du Midi hosted by European Waterways. All opinions are our own and are based on our experiences.

Carcassonne is a fascinating fortified city in the Occitanie region of France that has been around since the Neolithic Period. Over time, the hilltop area was occupied by the Romans, the Visigoths, the Saracens, and the Franks. Carcassonne was of great strategic importance due to its location between trade routes connecting the Atlantic to the Mediterranean and the Massif Central to the Pyrenees.

Here’s how to spend a great day in Carcassonne.

The historic walls of Carcassonne. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

Historic Fortified City Of Carcassonne

Carcassonne boasts an old fortified city known as La Cite de Carcassonne, and it’s full of layers of history. It’s actually a castle as well as a double-walled city. On a visit, you can see the various methods of fortification — wooden ramparts, towers, barbicans, and more. The castle has a drawbridge, and you can see a section of the Roman wall, which is quite different from the medieval walls constructed later. One of the towers of the fortified area played a role in the 13th-century Inquisition.

La Cite was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, and if you’re there to watch the Bastille Day fireworks, you’ll definitely think you’re visiting a fairy-tale castle. You can wander through the winding cobblestone alleys and passageways past old stone buildings; there’s plenty of history to enjoy. There are also lots of shops, restaurants, hotels, and souvenir spots.

The town of Carcassonne, France. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

Lower Town

While visiting the fortified city is a must, the Lower Town along the banks of the River Aude is also worth experiencing. It was founded in the 13th century when rebels from the citadel were kicked out. It’s called the Bastide Saint Louis and is home to many cafes, bars, restaurants, shops, and places to spend time. It’s built in a rectangle around the central Place Carnot.

Enjoy a stroll along the boulevards, which are home to beautiful mansions from different centuries. The Lower Town is also the modern business center of Carcassonne.

Pont Vieux

There are a few bridges that cross the River Aude, but the Pont Vieux is arguably the prettiest and definitely the oldest. It was constructed during the 14th century; at the time, it was the only link between the Lower Town and the old fortified city. Reconstructed in the 19th century, Pont Vieux is one of the few medieval bridges still existing in France. It’s compact and boasts lovely features like graceful arches. Pont Vieux is a pedestrian-only bridge, so you can take your time admiring the scenery while you’re there.

The Lady Carcas Statue

A famous Carcassonne legend is the story of Lady Carcas, of whom there is a statue right in front of the drawbridge at La Cite.

When the Saracens occupied the city, the Frankish ruler Charlemagne wanted to conquer it. He mounted a siege against the Saracen king and his people, destroying their crops and depriving them of resources. The siege lasted several years, and the Saracen king died.

His widow, the resourceful Lady Carcas, strategized a bold defense. Although she and her people were on the brink of starvation, she took their last piglet and stuffed it with their last bale of wheat. They tossed the pig over the wall, where it exploded at Charlemagne’s feet. Upon seeing the grain-filled animal wasted without a thought, he assumed that the city was so well provisioned that his attempt to overtake it was futile, and so he left.

Canal Du Midi

Carcassonne has a bustling canal port from which you can take a half-day (or longer) boat trip. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Canal du Midi was developed in the 17th century to connect the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.

You can take an organized trip or rent a boat for yourself and your friends. A great way to spend an afternoon is to pick up some picnic goodies at one of the many Carcassonne markets, float down the canal and eat your picnic onboard, and perhaps make a stop at one of the lovely spots along the way. The canal passes by locks and bridges and near the Lower Town. This is a fun way to get another perspective of fascinating Carcassonne.

A meal from Le Jarden en Ville in Carcassonne. — Le Jardin en Ville

Best Restaurants In Carcassonne

Carcassonne has a great cuisine scene. There are plenty of options for whatever you are hungry for. Here are a few ideas.

La Table De Franck Putelat

Two Michelin-starred restaurants in the city are worth checking out. La Table de Franck Putelat shines with its two stars even in the busy Carcassonne dining scene. At home in contemporary decor near the ramparts of the citadel, this tribute to inventive cuisine will tingle your taste buds and awaken all your senses. Menus have themes like “Emotion” and “Action Reaction,” illustrating the chef’s continuing quest to provide the ultimate flavor experience.

La Barbacane

La Barbacane is one of the best fine-dining restaurants in Carcassonne. The Michelin-starred spot’s gorgeous stained glass windows, cathedral ceilings, carved woodwork, and rich furnishings let you know you’re in for a special occasion from the moment you arrive. Prepare to enjoy classic dishes and modern interpretations, all beautifully plated. Don’t forget to try a local aperitif to get things rolling.

Le Jardin En Ville

Seasonal farm-fresh ingredients take center stage at Le Jardin en Ville, where you can enjoy a delicious meal al fresco on the terrace. Freshly prepared dishes include duck, lamb chops, fish, and beef in addition to delightful cheeses and even Buddha bowls. You can order food to go or stop in the fun little boutique that sells interesting items to add to your home decor.

Le Saint Jean

For a meal in the heart of La Cite with stunning views, head to Le Saint Jean. Surrounded by the walls of the city, you can enjoy delicious fare such as classic French entrees, salads, and even tapas. Its house version of the local specialty cassoulet is considered exceptional.

Comte Roger

Popular with the locals, Comte Roger has something for every palate, including different prix fixe menus with loads of options. From soups and salads to parfait glace and plenty of meat, fish, and vegetable dishes in between, you’ll enjoy a wonderful meal and a great terrace, too.

Shops and restaurants in Carcassonne's Lower Town. — trabantos / Shutterstock

Best Shopping In Carcassonne

Carcassonne’s Lower Town offers some fun boutiques with gifts, souvenirs, and tasty purchases to take home. Many are located around the central square, the Place Carnot.

The weekly market is open on Saturdays and is fun to explore for local produce. You can hang out at one of the cafes in the area and watch local shoppers pick out their favorites.

Also, since Carcassonne is in the fantastic wine region of Languedoc, you are near two great wine-growing areas: Minervois a little north and Corbieres a little south. You can head to one of those if you have the time for a tour and tasting.

If you’re staying put, you can take the fun chocolate-and-wine-tasting tour by Cocoa & Grapes or shop and taste at a local wine shop or cooperative like Vins & Vinos or Le Comptoir de la Cite.

Hotel de la Cite in Carcassonne. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

Where To Stay In Carcassonne

While many people consider Carcassonne a place for a day trip, if you have the time, you might just want to spend the night. One of the reasons is that the Hotel de la Cite is simply amazing. Its elegant decor, Michelin-starred restaurant (La Barbacane), and private gardens offering views of the city are just the beginning. Located on the site of a former bishop’s palace, the hotel offers history blended with modern comforts, including an exceptional spa, a heated pool, and rooms with both character and sophistication.

We’ve tried to give you an idea of how you could spend a day in Carcassonne. Locals would advise you to come early in the day to avoid the influx of tourists at lunchtime in the summer and to get a better feel for what the city is like. There is much to do in this historically important and vibrant city that offers a glimpse into both ancient and modern life.

For more things to see and do in France, visit this page.

From Slow Travel To Standstill: How This Multigenerational Family Is Making The Most Of Isolation In The Philippines

This year has brought about many surprises and has cast the future in shadow and uncertainty for many around the globe. Most people around the world are huddled up at home, only venturing out for necessary supplies or to head to work — for those deemed “essential”. What about those who don’t have a permanent place to call home and rather spend their days traveling from location to location?

What does a day in their life look like during a global pandemic? One such couple, Earth Vagabonds Ted “Tedly” and Ellen Kortan, found themselves seeking respite amongst strangers in the Philippines as the borders and businesses around them began to close.

The Kortans arrived in the Philippines back in November of 2019, with Ted’s mother, Diane, joining them soon thereafter for what was supposed to be a couple of months abroad with her son and daughter-in-law. They had enjoyed several stays on various islands in the Philippines, with no immediate plans to cut their time short even after the virus began to spread. However, on March 27, they were en route to a ferry to take them to their next destination on Boracay Island when the Philippines went into lockdown. While many hotels were not willing to take in foreigners during such an uncertain time, the three of them found a home away from home at Hangout Beach Resort.

Ted and Ellen Kortan are not your average retired couple and are no strangers to being abroad. They recently shared with me via email their thoughts on extending their stay in the Philippines and offered hope and encouragement to fellow travelers about what the future holds.

TA: Tell us a little bit about how you travel and why you decided this was how you wanted to see the world.

The Kortans: During our working years, we discovered how inexpensive vacations could be if we avoided all-inclusives and package “deals” and tourist traps. We figured we could live long-term that same way. So we retired early to travel as slow travelers — renting apartments and “living like locals.” We generally stay somewhere for one month at a time — but not always. It costs far less money if we treat this as a lifestyle instead of a vacation. Our budget is roughly $2,000 per month.

TA: What does a day in this new normal look like for your family?

The Kortans: While under home confinement during our quarantine [at Hangout Beach Resort], we did a lot of reading and played many games of Scrabble. Then, after 14 days, we were allowed to go to a garden up the road and to the beach. We still do a lot of reading and Scrabble, but we can move around more, exercise, go swimming and kayaking. Each family has a pass naming one person who can leave for food and supplies.

TA: What has been the hardest aspect of your current situation to adjust to? The easiest?

The Kortans: Honestly, this is easy. We have it pretty good — much better than so many people on the planet. But for creature comforts, Tedly misses beer — production/distribution has stopped; Diane misses hiking and church; Ellen misses ice cream and New York bagels. Of course, we do worry about loved ones back in the U.S. and stay in touch via video calls. We also have concerns regarding our rental property back home. Thankfully, our tenant paid April rent.

TA: What are you doing to stay healthy?

The Kortans: Our landlady has the garden in a nearby lot. It’s huge. We are active there. We also beach walk and swim and snorkel. Tedly does a bit of jogging and yoga.

The Kortans: Well, the gardening is one way. It’s actually more like a small organic farm. If we had just been traveling through, we wouldn’t have pitched in to help overturn land and remove tree limbs, et cetera. Also, we’ve gotten to know the owner and her dogs and the owner’s friends. A few of her friends are staying on the property during this crazy time. We really lucked out — these are wonderful, open-minded people.

The rest of the neighborhood still seems unsure about us. All the other tourists are long gone. They also speak very little English, wear masks, and practice social distancing. Hopefully, as restrictions relax in the coming weeks we can make some more friends.

Hangout Beach Resort in the Philippines. — Ted and Ellen Kortan / EarthVagabonds.com

The Kortans: For the long-term arrangements, it’s great that we now have a two-bedroom apartment [at Hangout Beach Resort]. Originally, mom was just visiting us as we traveled around the Philippines for a few months — each month on a different island. So during those times, mom was sleeping on couches or small second beds. We don’t know how long we will be on Panay Island, but our current place is a huge two-bedroom unit. As far as the biggest benefit: We love mom and enjoy our time with her. She’s safe here, and we like to see her enjoy this beautiful place, too. She is an experienced world traveler, and we never have to worry about her comfort or expectations. For example, if the power or water goes out for a little while, she can handle it.

TA: Diane, what creature comfort are you most missing from back home? Do you have someone looking after your home during the extension of your time in the Philippines?

Diane: Baking and knitting. I love to bake and I design quirky sweaters that are wearable art. I’m not knitting potholders. I live in a home my daughter owns in Cleveland, Ohio, so she’s looking after things just fine while I’m gone.

TA: Before this unforeseen stay at Hangout Beach Resort, what was the longest you had ever stayed in one location during your travels?

The Kortans: We stayed in Mahahual, Mexico, for four months one time. We stayed one month through Airbnb and loved it so much, we decided to rent another apartment for three additional months.

TA: Do you see yourself returning here in the future?

The Kortans: We never say never. But once we are able to travel again, we still have so many other places in the world to experience. We rarely go backwards — but see below.

TA: What are your plans once you get the all-clear to travel again? Where is the next place you plan to stay once you can move along?

The Kortans: Our tentative plan is to go to Penang, Malaysia, for a few months to visit some friends. We stayed there one month last year and loved it. Then, tentatively, we were looking at a visit back to the U.S. before starting a year-long adventure touring India. But that idea was before the pandemic. We think things are too uncertain to move forward with any definite travel plans at this point.

TA: As full-time travelers, how far in advance do you generally plan out your next stays?

The Kortans: Usually, we plan around three to six months in advance. We tend to rent monthly through Airbnb because we can get big discounts for the longer stays. Booking well in advance ensures we are able to secure the 30 consecutive nights we desire. As luck would have it, we only had a few months into 2020 booked. We knew things were getting serious with this virus, and thus our plans beyond April were left open.

The Kortans: We canceled two weeks on Boracay Island and one month in Romblon. That took us through April. Airbnb fully refunded both stays. We were traveling by bus to the ferry to Boracay on the day the lockdown went into effect. When we arrived, there was no way to access the island. At the Hangout Beach Resort, from our balcony, we can see Boracay Island, which is ironic. But honestly, we would rather be here, especially long-term with three people. It’s a larger, cheaper place with more amenities and fantastic hosts.

TA: Do you have any advice for people who might not want to travel again because of the current situation?

The Kortans: Wait it out more. Eventually, this virus will fade and Americans will get back to working and saving and vacationing. And no doubt there will be some really good deals to entice people to travel, too. It may take a long time — a year or two perhaps? But keep planning for the future. Now’s the perfect time to daydream and research. That said, if you are a serious, motivated traveler with means to go forward as soon as it is safe, we’ll see you out here!

Read more about travel in the Philippines and get inspired by other travelers’ ideas for making the most of time at home here. Our team previously interviewed the Kortans in late 2018 and learned more about travel habits, intriguing stories, and bucket list trips so make sure to read more about the Earth Vagabonds and get to know them even better.

The Best Bouillons: A Revival Of Classic Paris Dining

Navigating the different types of eating establishments in Paris can be a pleasant challenge to undertake when visiting. Brasseries, bistros, cafes, and salons de thes are among the standard establishments, but there’s one more to add to the list: bouillons.

The story goes back to 1855, when a Parisian butcher, Pierre Louis Duval, served a basic dish of bouillon, or broth with a hunk of meat in it, to local workers at the market as an inexpensive but hearty meal. The idea gave way to a new category of restaurants called bouillons, which served familiar French dishes such as leeks vinaigrette, beef bourguignon, escargot, pot a feu, and creme caramel at affordable prices.

Bouillons became a familiar sight in almost every area of Paris, and by the end of the 1800s, there were over 250 of them serving the masses. The interiors were massive, open dining rooms serving hundreds of diners at a time with a fast turnover, similar to cafeterias in the U.S. during the same time period. But by the 1980s, bouillons were almost extinct, with many of them closing due to new French dining trends, especially nouvelle cuisines, where supposedly less food was more.

In fashion as well as in food, what’s new is old, and what’s old is new; bouillons have made a strong comeback in the past three years, and the newly opened ones still provide good food at modest prices, where a three-course meal can cost as little as 18 euros or $20 USD per person, not including wine, which is typically four to six euros per glass.

Here’s a list of the best bouillons in Paris at the moment.

Bouillon Julien

Originally opened in 1906, Bouillon Julien, has been through various changes in ownership and menus, but the constant has been the exquisite decor of the restaurant. No expense was spared during the extravagant art nouveau design period in the early 1900s, and French artist Louis Edouard Fournier, a painter and illustrator, was commissioned to design the interior of the restaurant. Fournier brought in the top artisans of the period to create stunning architectural details; Louis Majorelle designed the mahogany bar, Armand Segaud created the peacock panels, and Charles Buffet, father of painter Bernard Buffet, designed the stained glass ceiling.

In its heyday, singer Edith Piaf was frequently spotted at Bouillon Julien, dining with her lover, Marcel Cerdan, the champion boxer, who later tragically died in an airplane crash.

In 1938, it was under new ownership and became just Julien, and in 1975 it was taken over by a large restaurant conglomerate. By the new millennium, Julien had seen better days and seemed out of place on a street filled with thrifty Turkish restaurants and casual cafes.

Julien was bought by a new owner in 2018 and the name Bouillon Julien was restored. British designer John Whelan faithfully restored Bouillon Julien, as much as possible, to its original, glorious design. Whelan did some research and found out that the walls were first painted a sea green color, and the dingy, tobacco color that was present was from the decades of cigarette smoke. Returning the walls to sea green, the gorgeous architectural details now look fresh and new.

The first course choices on the menu are so tempting, you can order two and not break the bank, although you may exceed your ideal calorie count. Selections include leek salad with hazelnuts, hard boiled eggs with mayonnaise, Burgundy snails with garlic, parsley, potato, and leek soup, and duck liver pate with toast points.

For the main course, Bouillon Julien, made with beef broth and braised beef, harkens back to the origins of the bouillon but is infused with fregola pasta, ginger, and lemongrass. Other traditional French dishes are revived, including steak frites, tete de veau, duck confit with French fries, and blanquette de veau.

Chocolate mousse, rice pudding with salted butter, caramel sauce, and lemon meringue tart are just a few of the desserts offered.

Bouillon Julien is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Reservations are recommended.

Bouillon Pigalle

Bouillon Pigalle, launched in 2018, almost single-handedly started the revival of the bouillon. Spanning two floors, with two dining rooms and an outdoor terrace, there’s seating for over 300 people. Bouillon Pigalle was an instant hit, and now patient Parisians and tourists stand in line during lunch and dinnertime for a much-coveted table (Bouillon Pigalle does not take reservations).

The decor of the dining room takes its cue from past bouillons, with long, communal tables with white tablecloths, red leather banquettes, bentwood chairs, and wood floors. Flowering plants are placed on wood, slatted shelves to give some softness, and uniform, floor-to-ceiling columns display vintage posters.

The location of Bouillon Pigalle, in the heart of Pigalle, is a big draw, as the neighborhood is known for its lively nightlife scene of clubs and bars and its close proximity to the Moulin Rouge and Montmartre.

Bouillon Pigalle prides itself in sourcing most of its ingredients either locally or from somewhere in France. They shop daily at the largest wholesale market in the world, Rungis, just outside of Paris, to find the freshest foods.

The menu at Bouillon Pigalle offers reasonable prices and hearty portions. Appetizers include classic French dishes, such as onion soup with melted cheese and croutons, smoked haddock with steamed potatoes, blue cheese, walnut, and chicory salad, and country-style pate, served with cornichons and toast triangles.

The main dish menu is heavy on meat and poultry and includes roast chicken with gravy and French fries, sweet breads, black sausage with buttery, mashed potatoes, and lamb stew with white beans. The small but well-chosen cheese list includes Cantal, Saint-Nectaire, and Rocamadour. After your hearty meal, you’ll want to satisfy your sweet tooth with profiteroles, Baba au Rhum, a chocolate eclair, or a floating island — just a few of the options on the long dessert list.

A seasonal dish is added to the menu monthly, and vegetarians are not just limited to side dishes and salads; there’s a main course of a cauliflower gratin with a Mornay sauce.

The limited wine list offers a bottle of Cote du Rhone red wine, chardonnay, or rose for only 9.90 euros a bottle or 3.30 euros a glass. You can luxuriate in Champagne at almost beer prices — 5.50 euros for a flute or 32 euros for a bottle.

Bouillon Pigalle has opened a second location, Bouillon Republique, near Place de la Republique.

Bouillon Chartier

Bouillon Chartier opened in 1896 at the height of bouillon popularity, and it remains an institution and is still one of the most popular dining spots in Paris, over a hundred years later.

A red neon sign on the outside of Chartier, located on a narrow, overcrowded side street off of Grand Boulevards, has a red arrow, pointing customers to a long vestibule. The red velvet ropes at the end of it purposely control the lines of people waiting to be seated. Inside is an authentic bouillon, a cavernous room with wood floors, a skylight, hanging lanterns with high-wattage bulbs, and narrow tables with faded, red tablecloths with Chartier embossed on them. At the entrance to Chartier, there’s a chest of small drawers, each one with a designated number, that, in the past, repeat customers would store their cloth napkin inside.

The menu stands the test of time with nostalgic dishes such as frisee salad with lardons and croutons, endive and blue cheese salad, and baby pink shrimp with mayonnaise for the appetizers. Alsace-style choucroute, salted, brined pork with lentils, and veal Marengo are the main plates. Dessert choices include prunes soaked in red wine with vanilla ice cream, house-made chocolate mousse, peach Melba, and cream puffs with fresh whipped cream.

The red wine list features syrah, Cotes du Rhone, Buzet, and Bordeaux; the white wine list, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay; and for rose, Buzet and gris de gris.

A second branch, Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse, was launched in 1903, close to the Montparnasse rail and metro hub. The dining room is much more luxurious than the first Chartier’s, with elegant decor that includes a glass ceiling painted with a floral motif, plus etched lanterns and mirrors with ornate wood frames.

Paris Pro Tips

A few general notes about bouillons in Paris: They are open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, the same menu with the same prices is served at lunch and dinner, and there’s a no reservation policy (except at Bouillon Julien), but the turnover is quick.

Also read up on five superb pastry chefs and chocolatiers in Paris. And, now that you know where you want to eat, you’ll have to book some accommodations! Consulting our guide on hotels vs. Airbnbs: where to stay in Paris is a great place to start.

North Platte, Nebraska: How To Enjoy A Perfect Weekend

North Platte, Nebraska, the home of Buffalo Bill Cody and the Union Pacific Railroad, celebrates its Western heritage. Located in West Central Nebraska, North Platte offers some experiences you won’t find anywhere else, from the opportunity to explore Buffalo Bill’s ranch to the fun of floating down a river in a stock tank.

What To Do

Explore The Buffalo Bill Ranch State Historical Park

Following an eventful career as a soldier, scout, Pony Express rider, and actor, William Frederick “Buffalo Bill” Cody settled in North Platte. However, his retirement was short-lived. He organized a Wild West show and rodeo for North Platte’s Independence Day celebration; word spread of the show, and he was asked to perform in Omaha. This launched the last chapter of his career in entertainment, and Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show traveled around the United States and Europe, even performing before British royalty. The showman eventually retired for good on his ranch in North Platte.

Today, you can tour the house and see the parlor where Buffalo Bill hosted dignitaries and celebrities. As you stroll the grounds of the Buffalo Bill Ranch State Historical Park, stop by the barn where Buffalo Bill once kept horses; it now houses a collection of wagons and carriages the showman used. You can even see his hunting cabin and the bison that graze on the ranch. And you never know when Buffalo Bill himself and his lovely wife will stop by to visit with you!

Take The Family To Cody Park

Cody Park is much more than just a city park. You’ll know you’re in for a fun experience when you see the Wild West Memorial — including a statue of Buffalo Bill — at the entrance. While the park contains a playground and athletic fields, it also features a wildlife sanctuary and a railroad museum with diesel engines you can climb aboard.

After you visit, enjoy a soft-serve ice cream treat at the park’s sweet shop. There’s also a small children’s amusement park, including a carousel.

The Fort Cody Trading Post in North Platte, Nebraska. — Danae Abreu / Shutterstock

Shop Till You Drop At The Fort Cody Trading Post

Stop in for souvenirs, and stay for the fun. As you drive up to the parking lot, you’ll notice the giant 30-foot-tall Buffalo Bill sign welcoming you to the Fort Cody Trading Post. Designed to resemble a fort, the trading post is the perfect spot to pick up gifts and souvenirs, all while checking out unique exhibits, including a miniature version of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show featuring about 20,000 hand-carved pieces and a two-headed calf. Take a walk on the fort’s grounds, which could pass for an outdoor museum with their covered wagons and other Western memorabilia. During the summer, Fort Cody hosts an outdoor concert series.

Pay Your Respects At The 20th Century Veterans Memorial

North Platte’s 20th Century Veterans Memorial honors veterans from each major military conflict of the 1900s, from World War I to the first Iraqi campaign. The memorial recognizes each military branch with sculptures and a walk of honor. It also depicts the volunteers of the North Platte Canteen, who greeted the more than six million soldiers and sailors who passed through the North Platte train depot during World War II.

Climb The Golden Spike Tower At Union Pacific’s Bailey Yard

At Union Pacific’s Bailey Yard, the nation’s largest railyard, you can climb the Golden Spike Tower to watch railcars being moved about. About 150 trains visit North Platte daily to be rearranged and sent off to their final destinations. The 8-floor tower features both an indoor and an outdoor observation deck. State flags from the 14 states served by Union Pacific fly at the base of the tower. You can learn about the history of the company on the first floor before heading to the observation deck.

Stop By The Lincoln County Historical Museum

For a look into North Platte’s history from the Wild West to World War II, take a trip to the Lincoln County Historical Museum. Exhibits cover the lives of early settlers as well as local business ventures. The museum is home to a major World War II exhibit highlighting the North Platte Canteen, which consisted of volunteers who helped the soldiers and sailors traveling through the area. Take a stroll through the early days of North Platte at the museum’s living history town, which features several historic buildings.

Hunt For Treasures At Grain Bin Antique Town

Grain Bin Antique Town is home to 14 wooden grain bins that were once used by farmers during the Great Depression, but now house a variety of antiques and vintage wares. The retail area, located a few miles outside of North Platte, was once a place to relax and entertain during the summer. Today, you’ll find all sorts of unique items, from old soda bottles and clothes to rare books and household goods. With a boardwalk connecting the buildings, the area resembles an old Western town.

Walk Through The Fort McPherson National Cemetery

Pay your respects to the fallen soldiers interred at the Fort McPherson National Cemetery near Maxwell, Nebraska, about a 20-minute drive from North Platte. As you traverse Nebraska’s oldest national cemetery, you’ll find perfectly-aligned stone markers recognizing veterans of the American Indian Wars to veterans of the recent conflicts in the Middle East. The cemetery, which is located a short distance from the original fort, is the final resting place of four Medal of Honor recipients, as well as the members of a World War II aircrew who were buried together.

The Sandhills of Nebraska. — marekuliasz / Shutterstock

Check Out Sandhills Drive

Enjoy a leisurely drive along Nebraska’s Sandhills north of the city. Heading north to Stapleton, Nebraska, and then west to Tryon, Nebraska, you’ll take in the rolling hills, named for the sandy dunes that were once part of a prehistoric sea and are now home to a seemingly endless wave of prairie grass. This is the Nebraska of your dreams.

Go Tanking On The North Platte River

What is tanking, anyway? Imagine taking a metal stock watering tank, putting some chairs in it, tossing it in the river, and spending a lazy day floating along.

Dusty Trails is a local outfitter that can organize a river tanking float trip for you. The round tanks include secure seating and a small table. You’ll be given an oar to help push you off the river banks if you get near them. Then, you’ll enjoy a relaxing float along the calm North Platte River. Trips lasting 2 hours to all day are available. You can bring your own drinks and food.

Where To Eat

North Platte’s culinary scene offers visitors an opportunity to enjoy homestyle cooking as well as fine dining featuring outstanding rib-eye and prime-rib steaks.

Espresso Shop By Caravan

Offering freshly made breakfast and lunch, Espresso Shop by Caravan quickly became a local favorite after opening in 2014. Located in downtown North Platte, Espresso Shop attracts locals and visitors for its outstanding coffee and menu. The coffee shop is a great spot to meet friends, and it also hosts local musicians.

Lincoln Highway Diner

A U.S. Route 30 staple, the Lincoln Highway Diner offers homestyle cooking for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. From omelets in the morning to club sandwiches at lunch and chicken-fried steak at dinner, Lincoln Highway Diner has you covered.

Good Life On The Bricks

New to the North Platte dining scene, Good Life on the Bricks opened its downtown location in 2019. Known for its smoked meat, the restaurant also offers barbecue, pizza, burgers, salads, and pasta, as well as vegan options.

Another Round Sports Bar And Grill

You don’t need to be a golfer to dine at Another Round Sports Bar and Grill at the River’s Edge Golf Course. Combining fine dining with the relaxed atmosphere of a sports bar, the restaurant offers a mix of burgers, sandwiches, and salads along with outstanding steaks and prime rib at very reasonable prices.

Where To Stay

Conveniently located off Interstate 80 and a short distance from North Platte’s attractions, the Hampton Inn North Platte offers a quality stay at an affordable rate. The reliable hotel features a complimentary breakfast, an indoor swimming pool, and a fitness center.

Tru by Hilton North Platte offers a streamlined approach. The rooms are sleek and minimalist in design, but with the conveniences of older brands. Offering complimentary breakfast and a fitness center, the Tru also has pet-friendly rooms. The hotel gives out digital keys, making room access much easier.

Guernsey Island: The Best Things To See And Do

Located some 70 miles from the English Coast and a mere 30 miles from France, Guernsey is the second largest of the Channel Islands in the English Channel. A crown dependency, it has its own government, passports, and money, although they’re all very similar to those of the United Kingdom. Just over 65,000 people call Guernsey home, and while until 1948 French was the official language (and it’s still used in administration), both English and French are widely spoken.

Guernsey is a haven of rural landscapes, gloriously deserted beaches, and intriguing history, and it has inspired many writers and artists. According to folklore, the island was once inhabited by fairies, and visitors can explore the lucky Fairy Ring there today.

Guernsey is the perfect place for a leisurely break, with just enough — but not too much — to see and explore. Here’s what to do when you visit.

Saint Peter Port on Guernsey Island. — Allard One / Shutterstock

Discover Saint Peter Port

Saint Peter Port, Guernsey’s capital of some 18,000 people, is nothing if not picturesque. Colorful houses clinging to a hill overlooking a marina, a ferry port, various smaller islands, and a castle; cobbled streets dotted with small boutiques; and plenty of restaurants with views invite you to spend at the very least one whole day exploring this adorable city.

For history, head to the 800-year-old Castle Cornet; for a picnic with a view, head to Candie Gardens; and for some art, enjoy the Rona Cole Art Gallery. But for pure enjoyment, simply meander down the little streets, climb the steps you’ll find everywhere, and soak up the atmosphere.

Pro Tip: See if you can find Guernsey’s only and oldest red post box. It dates to 1853.

The Hauteville House on Guernsey Island. — Allard One / Shutterstock

Find Literary Inspiration At Hauteville House

Victor Hugo spent 19 years in exile from France for his political views, which clashed with those of the Second Empire of Napoleon III. For 15 of those years, starting in 1855, he lived on Guernsey. He worked on Toilers of the Sea (set on Guernsey) and Les Miserables from his study in Hauteville House. He reportedly spent six years decorating the house and gardens with simply stunning views. I don’t know how he ever got any work done in this setting!

The house is beautifully decorated yet spartan at the same time; the wood-paneled room downstairs is quite oppressive, while the conservatory upstairs is nearly too bright. But all together, it works, and as for the garden, it’s simply lovely.

Pro Tip: Be sure to book a tour online, since visitors who arrive on the doorstep without a booking are often turned away. If you are turned away, you can still visit the garden and peek in through the windows, though.

Visit The German Occupation Museum

For five years during World War II, Guernsey was occupied by the Germans, and while lots has been written about the occupation, the private German Occupation Museum truly brings the era to life. The museum started off as the collection of a schoolboy who picked up small mementos of the war and used his family’s garden shed to display them. Today, the exhibits will send a shiver down your spine with their portrayal of the daily life of the islanders and the Germans, neither of whom fared too well. This is an amazing collection, and you won’t regret a visit.

Pro Tip: If you want to learn more about this time in history, don’t miss the German Underground Hospital.

Follow The Guernsey Literary And Potato Peel Pie Society Trail

This popular book by Mary Ann Shaffer and Annie Barrows was later made into a film starring Lily James and has drawn worldwide attention to the island of Guernsey. Pick up a map of the trail in the tourism office or in your hotel, and you can follow it across the island, visiting spots mentioned in the book. You’ll find signs near most historic sites not just telling you the history, but also where in the book the site was mentioned.

Buy a copy of the book on the island, and you’ll have a lovely souvenir.

The Little Chapel on Guernsey Island. — Kiev.Victor / Shutterstock

Admire The Little Chapel

The Little Chapel is indeed little — and entirely covered in shards of broken pottery and porcelain from around the world. It all comes together in a quite mesmerizing building. Brother Deodat, a monk, set about building the tiny replica of the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes in 1913. The current version is the third incarnation of the project, and it’s carefully looked after and restored with pieces of broken pottery donated from around the globe.

It is free to visit the chapel, but donations are always appreciated. Currently, the keepers are raising funds to replace the roof.

Fort Grey on Guernsey Island. — EdgarLoehrMedien / Shutterstock

Explore The Fort Grey Area

Dating to 1804, the small but shapely Fort Grey, locally known as the Cup and Saucer, was built to defend Guernsey from the French. It is located along a lovely beach that invites you to stop and have a look around. Sadly, you cannot go inside, but it is still worth a look, since the surroundings are lovely, too.

Pro Tip: Just opposite the fort you’ll find the Guernsey Pearl, a shop selling cute souvenirs and jewelry made from local pearls. Inside there is a very basic cafe with hearty pies and good sausage and chips.

Eating And Drinking On Guernsey Island

On this island in the English Channel, seafood is plentiful, and it doesn’t get any fresher. That said, there are restaurants offering everything from good pub food to fine dining.

Here are some of my favorite spots.

The Crow’s Nest

The Crow’s Nest is a relaxed seafood restaurant with great views across Saint Peter Port’s bay. Fish and chips, crispy calamari rings, large salads, delicious desserts, and local beers are all on the menu.

The Terrace Garden Cafe

If the weather is nice, there is no better place to sit outside and enjoy lunch, a drink, or a light snack than The Terrace Garden Cafe. The menu offers everything from sandwiches to nachos, and even a good selection of Thai street food. There’s also a superb wine and beer list, plus large jugs of Pimm’s.

Rocquette Cider

Speaking of delicious drinks, Rocquette Cider is a Guernsey-based brewery carrying on the local apple-growing and cider-brewing traditions that have been thriving since the 16th century. You can tour the estate and sample the produce during a visit.

A street of shops on Guernsey Island. — jax10289 / Shutterstock

Shopping On Guernsey Island

For a small capital, Saint Peter Port has an impressive number of lovely little cobbled shopping streets. Though you’ll mostly find brands from the UK, there are also quaint local boutiques and souvenirs shops selling everything from puffin mugs to locally cultured pearls. The good news is that there is no VAT on the island, so luxury items like jewelry tend to be a little cheaper than on the mainland.

Look out for Guernsey sweaters, which are famous for their warmth. Made from thick wool, they are all hand knitted (usually with the label telling you exactly who knitted that particular sweater) and designed for sailors. They’re not cheap, but remember that they’re individually hand knitted!

Other great souvenirs to look out for are local cheeses, such as Guernsey goat cheese; fudge, a soft caramel made on the island; and locally brewed cider and gin.

Where To Stay On Guernsey Island

Despite its small size, Guernsey has a surprising range of charming accommodations, both in town and in the country. The problem is choosing just one place to stay.

Les Douvres Hotel

Set on a quiet lane in the parish of Saint Martin, the Les Douvres Hotel is a classic country home with 19 individually decorated rooms, a cozy bar, a great restaurant, and lovely gardens where you can enjoy a drink under the trees. The Renoir Walk is just steps away from here.

La Fregate Hotel

Located high above Saint Peter Port, La Fregate Hotel is not only a nice hotel with spacious rooms and a highly recommended restaurant, but it offers views that will have you struggling to leave. You can look out over the entire city and the coastline as well as the castle and various smaller islands on the horizon.

Bella Luce Hotel

Not far from the Les Douvres Hotel, the Bella Luce Hotel is a postcard-worthy stone building covered in wisteria vines. But aside from cute rooms and a great restaurant, the Bella Luce boasts a day spa and a gin distillery, Wheadon’s Gin.