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Thousand Islands Weekend Getaway: Where To Eat, Stay, And Play

Thousand Islands Weekend Getaway: Where To Eat, Stay, And Play

Water, fresh air, wonderful dining venues, and fascinating pieces of history can all be found in the Thousand Islands.

The Thousand Islands, sometimes referred to in writing as the 1000 Islands, are the many tiny islands dotting the Saint Lawrence River as it approaches Lake Ontario. The area is also known for the salad dressing. Yes, Thousand Island salad dressing was first created here. More recently, it has become popular for its wineries, breweries, distilleries, and gastropubs.

The fertile agricultural land and humid, moist air create the perfect climate for growing cold hardy grapes and grains used to produce signature craft beverages. Red wines including Frontenac and Marquette, and whites such as Frontenac Gris and La Crescent are produced from these so-called northern grapes.

If you visit in the spring, you can smell the sweet aroma of maple sugar shacks on both sides of the U.S.-Canada border. A fall visit will include savoring cider and fresh-made donuts. Apple orchards are scattered throughout the region offering visitors many choices in autumn.

Foodies, craft beer fans, wine lovers, outdoor adventurists, and history lovers all have lots of reasons to love the Thousand Islands area. Here are my top recommendations based on my time there.

A tour boat in the Thousand Islands.

Michael P. Smith

See All The Tiny Islands Via Boat

Some of the Thousand Islands are just barely big enough for a shed to fit on them; others are large enough for several houses. Some of the houses on the islands are summer homes, but many are year-round residences. The only way to get to many of the islands is via boat.

A great way to see many of the islands is via boat tour. Cruising among the Thousand Islands on a boat is one of the most popular activities visitors enjoy. The tours cruise past dozens of islands, fairytale castles, lighthouses, and wildlife, along with a bit of history. You can find tours from both the American and Canadian sides of the Saint Lawrence. There are also tours that combine seeing the various islands with a visit to Boldt Castle.

The cost of the tours depends on length and what is included. Some tours include lunch or dinner.

Boldt Castle in the Thousand Islands.

Michael P. Smith

Visit Boldt Castle

Boldt Castle is near Alexandria Bay, New York. Millionaire hotel magnate George C. Boldt started building the castle, which is situated on Heart Island, around 1900 as the ultimate romantic gesture and a tribute to his beloved wife, Louise. It was a castle rivaling those of Europe. The six-story, 120-room castle, complete with tunnels, a powerhouse, Italian gardens, a drawbridge, Alster Tower (also known as the Playhouse), and a dovecote was basically a summer home, and the rich and famous visited.

The powerhouse provided all the electricity for the island and everything on it. It stands at the entry of the island.

The powerhouse at Boldt Castle.

Robin O’Neal Smith

They had a butler’s pantry that was bigger than many kitchens in homes today. They held many parties and festivities in the huge dining room with seating for 18.

There was also a large patio where dances and other events were held. They held a huge July 4th celebration every year at the castle. During the gatherings, the men often congregated in the Alster Tower billiard room for gaming, discussing politics, and enjoying cigars.

When I visited, I wondered if perhaps the game of Clue was fashioned after this castle given the library, billiard room, dining room, conservatory, et cetera.

The dining room at Boldt Castle.

Robin O’Neal Smith

Louise Boldt passed away suddenly in 1904 just months before the completion of the castle. Mr. Boldt was heartbroken and immediately stopped all construction on Heart Island. He never returned to Heart Island after her death, and the property was vacant for over 70 years.

Many of the rooms on the upper floors were never finished. When you visit, you can see the construction plans and items were left just as they were when construction stopped.

The castle was at the mercy of the weather for many years as it stood empty. The Thousand Islands Bridge Authority (TIBA) now owns and operates Boldt Castle and the Boldt Yacht House. They use the money from visits to restore and maintain the grounds and the castle.

The grounds are beautiful with fountains and flowers everywhere. Over 20,000 different plants decorate the grounds. Many weddings are held on Heart Island.

Boldt Castle is only accessible by water. Transportation is available from both Canada and the U.S. by personal pleasure craft or boat tour.

Visiting is like taking a step back in time as you see and feel the lavishness and magnificence of a bygone era.

The Shorelines Casino in the Thousand Islands.

Robin O’Neal Smith

Try The Slots At Shorelines Casino

Shorelines Casino is a full-service casino offering patrons slot machines and table games. They often have other entertainment and the casino is home to a wonderful restaurant, The Windward (more on eating here below).

Shorelines Casino has free parking and provides free non-alcoholic beverages to guests on the gaming floors.

You must be 19 years of age to be admitted. You must have proof of identification with you for entry.

Two islands in the Thousand Islands.

Michael P. Smith

Other Reasons To Visit Thousand Islands

Other fun things to do include visiting historic sites, such as the 1000 Islands History Museum, the Thousand Islands Boat Museum, and the Fort Henry National Historic Site.

If you are into outdoor activities, you might enjoy fishing or visiting one of the more than 15 New York State Parks along Lake Ontario and the Saint Lawrence River and on several islands. Thousand Islands National Park is one of the oldest national parks in Canada and is made up of 21 different islands in the Saint Lawrence River and three mainland properties on the 1000 Islands Parkway.

There are also lots of open roads that run along the shorelines for cyclists and motorcycle riders to enjoy.

Enjoy a taste of the rural life on the 1000 Islands Agricultural Tour, which includes stops at more than a dozen farms, wineries, and crop stands.

The Boathouse Country Inn Restaurant in the Thousand Islands.

Robin O’Neal Smith

Eating In The Thousand Islands

There are restaurants in abundance in the area.

Thousand Island salad dressing originated here, and it is served in most restaurants and can be purchased in the gift shop at Boldt Castle. There are two tales of how it originated, but both end with the Thousand Island dressing being served at the famous Boldt Castle to the rich and famous guests, and the rest is history.

A traditional meal in the Thousand Islands includes fresh fish filets served with a garden salad topped with Thousand Island dressing plus salt potatoes and locally grown sweet corn. Dessert is French toast with locally made maple syrup and sometimes cream with a shot of whiskey or a flavored spirit.

It feels like there are almost as many restaurants as there are islands in the area. Below are our favorites.

Windward Restaurant

The Windward Restaurant at Shorelines Casino has an excellent selection of delicious casual fare. I admit I agreed to eat here because I thought it would be convenient, since we were at the casino for the evening. I thought my meal would be ho-hum. Boy was I surprised! I had the grilled Atlantic salmon served with a beurre blanc sauce. It was fantastic. There were five of us, and we were all impressed with our meals.

They have dining specials each evening, and you can eat at the restaurant without gambling.

The Boathouse Country Inn Restaurant

You will find historic charm at the Boathouse Restaurant and riverside patio (seasonal). A casual family restaurant on the water, you can enjoy a meal or a glass of wine as you watch the tour boats come and go. They also have docking facilities for visitors.

The Boathouse is where we boarded our Thousand Island cruise and Boldt Castle tour. It is a very convenient place for lunch or dinner after your cruise.

The Thousand Islands.
Russ Heinl / Shutterstock.com

Places To Stay In The Thousand Islands

We found the ideal place to stay for our visit was in Gananoque, Ontario, Canada. We were close to all the things we wanted to see and do and there were several places to stay.

Holiday Inn Express Hotel And Suites Gananoque

This is where we stayed when we visited the Thousand Islands. The hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the Thousand Islands and the location was perfect. It’s the only hotel in Gananoque and the Canadian Thousand Islands area with an elevator, interior corridors, an indoor heated pool, and fitness and business centers.

It is open year-round and has some pet-friendly rooms. We found it to be immaculate, and the front desk attendants were helpful.

The Woodview Inn

This boutique hotel, also in Gananoque, has both rooms and suites, many with fireplaces. Newly renovated, it is a 10-minute walk to downtown. The hotel is open year-round and provides a healthy breakfast every morning.

Four Points By Sheraton

This hotel is in neighboring Kingston, Ontario. Each room offers picturesque views of Kingston or Lake Ontario. Located just steps from many historic sites, it has a restaurant onsite and a pool, sauna, and fitness center. The Four Points is open year-round and they have pet-friendly rooms.

The Thousand Islands is a fun and friendly destination with something for everyone. A weekend won’t be enough, and I promise you will want to visit again.

Pro Travel Tips

  • Plan to spend at least several hours at the Boldt Castle. There is much to see inside and on the grounds.
  • Wear sturdy walking shoes since some of the ground is uneven.
  • If you are allergic to flowers, take your allergy medicine. There are flowers everywhere.
  • If taking a boat tour, you may need a jacket even in summer.

Coming from or going to Ottawa? Here are the best things to see and do.

6 Amazing Things To Do In Beautiful Pismo Beach, California—Plus Where To Eat And Stay

Located on the Central Coast of California, about 3 hours north of Los Angeles, Pismo Beach is a small, laid-back town that offers visitors the chance to get outdoors, relax, and enjoy some seriously good seafood. Several miles of coast beckon to you to stroll on the sand, watch surfers ride the waves, and catch a sunset from the pier. Don’t expect a packed itinerary; instead, look forward to a peaceful weekend away along the Pacific Ocean.

Things To Do In Pismo Beach

While Pismo Beach is definitely a relaxing destination, that doesn’t mean there isn’t much to do. On the contrary, this small town is loaded with options, especially for outdoor lovers. A few activities require advance planning, but most can be done whenever you are ready.

The Pismo Preserve in California.

Mada_Cris / Shutterstock

1. Pismo Preserve

The Pismo Preserve was opened to the public for the first time in January of 2020. For a scenic hike or bike ride, this is the place to be. The 900-acre conservancy offers 11 miles of trails that wind through woodlands and bluffs, providing excellent views of the Pacific Ocean. A variety of wildlife can be found in the preserve, including deer, fox, bobcats, and mountain lions.

2. Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove

The Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove is one of only five sites in the state that has counts of more than 10,000 butterflies annually. From late October through February, the butterflies cluster in the limbs of towering eucalyptus trees.

Wander through the grove on your own or take advantage of a docent talk to learn more about these colorful creatures. Telescopes are available to help visitors get a better view.

The butterfly grove is located off of Highway 1 at the southern end of Pismo Beach. Since the butterfly counts vary greatly each year, it’s suggested that visitors check out the website prior to planning a trip.

The Pismo Pier in California.

Gabriele Maltinti / Shutterstock

3. Pismo Pier

The 1,370-foot-long wooden pier is probably the most famous landmark in Pismo Beach. It’s a great place to stroll to appreciate views of the ocean and beach or to see what the local fishermen are catching. There’s a snack shop at the end of the pier if you get hungry. If you’re here for a romantic weekend getaway, then head to the pier to catch a sunset.

4. Pismo State Beach

With 17 miles of beach, Pismo State Beach is the ideal destination if you’re wanting to swim, surf, sunbathe, or just stroll the sand. If you’re looking for something a bit more unusual, try your hand at clamming — just be sure to get a permit first.

Pismo State Beach is one of only a few public beaches in the state of California that allow guests to drive their cars on the sand. This is only permitted in certain areas, so be sure to check the local signage.

A sea cave near Pismo Beach.

Nicholas Taffs / Shutterstock

5. Kayak Through The Sea Caves

Adventure seekers can schedule a tour of the sea caves located along the Pismo Beach coast. Most of the sea caves in this area are only accessible by water, making them some of the lesser-known attractions in town.

Central Coast Kayaks describes its 3-hour cave excursion as exhilarating and at times strenuous. But you’ll be rewarded with views of kelp forests, grottoes, and marine life.

If you’re already an experienced kayaker, check out the rentals available at Pismo Beach Surf Shop or Pismo Beach Dive Shop.

6. Tide Pooling

Formed in depressions along the shoreline of rocky coasts, tide pools are filled with seawater that gets trapped as the tide recedes. Often they are packed with sea life like barnacles, mussels, anemones, urchins, sea stars, crustaceans, and small fish. There are dozens of spots along Pismo Beach’s coast where you can enjoy these tide pools.

Eldwayen Ocean Park is a nice place to see tide pools. Look for a wooden set of stairs at the north end of the park — it leads to the beach and the tide pools. Margo Dodd Park is another option if you’d like to see both tide pools and sea caves. Spyglass Park offers tide pools that are a bit more remote, but definitely worth the trip. Follow the trail down to the beach and then climb over the rocks to the small sandy beach.

Before venturing out to the tide pools, be sure the tide is out and that you can safely return before the tide comes in.

Restaurants and bars at Prismo Beach.
Sundry Photography / Shutterstock.com

Best Restaurants In Pismo Beach

If you love seafood, then Pismo Beach is the place for you. And if you specifically enjoy clams, you’ll be happy you made the trip. At one time, the city was known as the Clam Capital of the World. This may be a small town, but it’s loaded with great restaurants at all price points to make your weekend getaway perfect. Here are some of the best.

Oyster Loft

If you’re looking for a fine-dining experience with an excellent view, head to Oyster Loft. Many locals consider this their go-to restaurant for special occasions. The must-have items here are, of course, the oysters, but you can’t go wrong with any of the seafood entrees.

Cracked Crab

The Cracked Crab takes pride in serving locally caught fish and seafood as well as produce sourced from the region’s farms. The decor is casual and well suited to a dining experience that can be messy. There’s nothing like digging into a platter of crab legs!

Splash Cafe

Clam chowder aficionados should head to Splash Cafe. One of the oldest restaurants in Pismo Beach, this place proudly serves more than 30,000 gallons of chowder each year. For an extra treat, order it in a house-baked sourdough bread bowl! Be prepared for a wait, since this is one of the most popular restaurants in town.

Pismo Fish And Chips

Family-owned Pismo Fish and Chips has been around since 1963. And as its name implies, the fish and chips are the main event. In fact, many locals say they are the best you’ll ever taste. Be sure to try the excellent clam chowder as well.

Best Hotels In Pismo Beach

This popular seaside destination does not lack for nice hotels and inns. While there are chain hotels in the area, many of the independently owned hotels offer scenic locations, well-appointed rooms, and friendly service.

Here are some of my favorite places to stay in the area.

SeaCrest Oceanfront Hotel

Sitting high on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the SeaCrest Oceanfront Hotel is an ideal home base from which to explore Pismo Beach. Enjoy the view from the terrace or head down the stairs to the beach. For a romantic weekend, splurge on a room with a balcony and an ocean view. Amenities include a continental breakfast, a pool, a hot tub, and an on-site restaurant.

Inn At The Cove

Located on a secluded cove, the Inn at the Cove provides guests with ocean views from every room. And if you’re hoping to travel with your pet, this hotel is happy to help. Amenities include a continental breakfast, pool, and electric car charging station.

Cottage Inn By The Sea

Inspired by the English countryside, the Cottage Inn by the Sea has a lovely oceanfront location where it’s hard to escape views of the water. Choose from a garden or ocean-view room; all rooms have fireplaces. Amenities include a continental breakfast, a pool, and luxury toiletries.

If You’ve Got More Time

There’s plenty to do in Pismo Beach over the course of a weekend, but if you have more time, consider venturing out a bit farther.

Just 30 minutes outside of Pismo are three historic winemaking regions: Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande, and Avila Valley. Dozens of wineries throughout the area offer tasting rooms and tours. Or head an hour north to visit the spectacular Hearst Castle, built by the publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst.

Pismo Beach can be both a destination in and of itself and a base from which to explore more of California’s rugged Central Coast.

5 Superb Pastry Chefs And Chocolatiers In Paris

Extravagant French pastries and chocolates have always been a big draw for those visiting Paris. Eclairs, macarons, chocolate mousse, mille-feuilles, and creme brulee are just a short list of the decadent offerings that are featured in patisseries that dot almost every corner of Paris. In the past decade, a new crop of pastry makers and chocolatiers have elevated their craft to a whole new level, transforming their creations to the level of art. Many have become culinary superstars with tens of thousands of social media followers, sold-out personal appearances, media exposure, and lines out the doors at their shops.

Before I moved to Paris and became a travel writer and tour guide, I was a New York City-based baker and chocolate maker. My specialty as a chocolate maker was my own truffle recipe that used Belgian dark chocolate, and I had a small shop in midtown New York for four years. At the same time, I was also baking coconut macaroons for gourmet shop Dean and DeLuca.

Instead of making chocolates and pastries, these days, I lead pastry and chocolate tours in Paris. The selection below reflects what I consider to be the best pastry and chocolate shops, and many of them are stops on my tour, during which we do tastings.

Inside of one of the Pierre Herme locations in Paris.

Alexandros Michailidis / Shutterstock

1. Pierre Herme

Easily one of the best and most well-known patissiers in Paris and throughout France, Pierre Herme is at the top of his game. Herme has been the darling of critics and food awards since his start in 1998, becoming the youngest pastry chef ever to win France’s Pastry Chef of the Year, followed by World’s Best Pastry Chef in 2016 from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Vogue has called him the Picasso of Pastry. So far, the biggest honor Herme has received is being bestowed the Legion of Honor award, the highest award for military and civil merits in France, established by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802.

Customers swarm over a dozen of Herme’s Paris-based freestanding and department shops for his most popular pastry, his unbeatable macarons. Although Herme produces favorites such as chocolate, raspberry, vanilla, and coffee, what sets him apart is the eclectic pairing of odd and familiar flavors.

Different flavors of macarons from Pierre Herme.

Alexandros Michailidis / Shutterstock

His best-selling flavors are Ispahan, which has notes of rose, lychee, and raspberry, and Mogador, a passion fruit macaron with a milk chocolate filling. Every season, similar to Paris fashion collections, Herme invents four new flavors only available for a limited time. Fashionable Parisians wouldn’t be caught dead eating last season’s macarons.

In summertime, Pierre Herme sells ice creams and refreshing sorbets that are also available in ice cream sandwich form. Flaky pastry layers are filled with salted butter caramel ice cream, lime, basil, and Mandarin sorbet, or a pistachio and strawberry scented ice cream.

Patrick Roger's pastry shop in Paris.

Alexandros Michailidis / Shutterstock

2. Patrick Roger

Sometimes called the bad boy of chocolate in the inner circles of the Parisian food scene, Patrick Roger is truly unique in his field. Why? Because not only is he one of the finest and most inventive chocolatiers in the city, he is also a serious sculptor, creating works in bronze, wood, and metal.

After apprenticing for two recognized pastry and chocolate makers, Roger began making his distinct chocolates in a suburban village outside of Paris. More like a mad scientist in a lab concocting yet undiscovered flavors and textures than a conventional chocolatier, Roger made a name for himself, and in 2001, he opened his first Paris boutique in the Saint Germain area. He specializes in dark chocolate, and some of his most beautiful and delicious creations are his colorful spheres, which look like marbles and are filled with ganache of either lime and caramel, salted butter caramel, or yuzu fruit and lemongrass.

Chocolate by Patrick Roger.

EQRoy / Shutterstock

Roger combines his two passions, chocolate making and sculpting, by designing whimsical sculptures made of chocolate for his shop windows. A series of hens and their hen houses, life size recreations of apes and orangutans, and a true replica of Rodin’s The Thinker, commissioned by the Rodin estate, are just a few examples of his grand imagination.

Although the brand has a uniform packaging color of aqua blue, each boutique has a unique design, and they don’t look like most chocolate shops. Roger’s boutique on Place Madeleine feels like a huge organ, with metal pipes enveloping the interior, and his Marais shop resembles an art gallery with hanging stained-glass panels and an enormous glass table with metal tentacles. The Madeleine location also has a sculpture gallery on the mezzanine level.

3. Hugo And Victor

Hugues Pouget was so inspired by his favorite French author and poet, Victor Hugo, that he named his pastry and chocolate shop after him. Hugo And Victor is the realization of a lifelong dream of Pouget’s to have his own shop.

He put up his proverbial signpost on the Left Bank in the affluent 7th arrondissement, close to the chic Le Bon Marche department store. The decor of the shop matches the upscale clientele with glass jewel cases that would normally display pearls and diamonds but instead show off the gorgeous pastries and cakes. Flavors are seasonal, and four times a year Pouget selects a particular ingredient or flavor and designs his cakes and tarts around it. Past flavors have been grapefruit, yuzu, and vanilla. His version of chocolate spheres are metallic on the outside and contain ganache with pear, mandarin, and passion fruit, cleverly packaged in a book with an elastic band.

Pouget also likes to collaborate with celebrities and designers and in the past has teamed up with actress Catherine Deneuve.

Holiday time is special at Hugo and Victor; every year Pouget soars to new heights of creativity, turning out amazing versions of Buche de Noels (Yule logs) for Christmas, chocolate eggs for Easter, and, for the New Year, a special king cake.

4. Un Dimanche A Paris

Pierre Cluizel, whose father was the founder of Michel Cluizel, one of the most well-known, high-quality chocolate companies in France, faithfully worked in his father’s business for 25 years. He sold his shares and left the company in 2009 to pursue his own chocolate and pastry dream shop. In 2011 he opened up Un Dimanche a Paris, a two-story, multi-purpose shop, restaurant, and cooking workshop, in an 1735 Paris passageway.

Chocolate is the star of the show at Un Dimanche a Paris (whose name translates to A Sunday In Paris) and shows up in all aspects of the enterprise, including the participation of Chef Jerome Sarlat, who inserts chocolate into many savory dishes at the haute cuisine restaurant and serves a killer, specially blended hot chocolate served in an exclusively designed white porcelain pot. You’ll also find intensely flavored dark chocolates in the retail shop.

The posh dining room, which also doubles as a tea salon during off hours, is on the first level, connected to the spacious retail shop. In between is the open, glassed-in pastry kitchen, where you can press your nose against the glass and salivate while watching the young pastry makers whip heavy cream, melt chocolate, and effortlessly pipe out pastries.

Upstairs, pastry- and chocolate-making workshops are offered in the evening from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Pierre Marcolini chocolatier.

Alexandros Michailidis / Shutterstock

5. Pierre Marcolini

Pierre Marcolini is one of the handful of chocolatiers to use the bean-to-bar process, which means he sources his own cacao beans from plantations around the globe, imports them to his factory in Belgium, roasts and processes the beans, and finally, puts the finished product into his luxurious chocolates.

Marcolini’s expansive selection of chocolate tablets best show off his globetrotting to find the finest chocolate, with flavors from Madagascar, Venezuela, Cameroon, Cuba, and Ecuador.

Their signature chocolate is a red glazed heart, filled with raspberry ganache, lemon zest, and dark and white chocolate. Truffles, chocolate-covered orange and lemon rind, pralines, marshmallows covered in dark chocolate, and cocoa-dusted almonds round out the chocolate collection. Pierre Marcolini expands beyond chocolate, also selling macarons, glazed pound cakes, sugar-glazed chestnuts, a popular French delicacy, financiers, and a line of jams and preserves. Ice cream and sorbet pops in sophisticated flavors such as mango, coconut, and yuzu are hand-dipped in either white chocolate, dark praline chocolate, or milk chocolate with nuts.

Chocolates from Pierre Marcolini.

Alexandros Michailidis / Shutterstock

Packaging is just as important as the quality of the chocolate at Pierre Marcolini, and collaborations with artists, designers, and celebrities have proven to be fruitful. Past collaborations include a line of chocolate hearts designed with Victoria Beckham, a chocolate bento box with Japanese fashion company Maison Kitsune, and mini chocolate lips by fashion designer Olympia Le-Tan.

Pierre Marcolini has a commitment to sustainability and fair employment practices with all of his suppliers. He will not use child laborers, only uses natural herbicides on the beans, bans known carcinogens, and does not source genetically modified cocoa beans.

After more great Paris eats? Read up on the best bouillons: a revival of classic Paris dining.

Beautiful Bilbao, Spain: Where To Eat, Stay, And Play

Located near France in the Western Pyrenees, Bilbao is the largest city of the Basque Country, an autonomous community in Northern Spain. Fiercely proud of their heritage, Basque people have their own traditions, culture, and even language, which are quite distinct from those of the rest of Spain.

Lying on the Nervion River a mere 7 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, Bilbao has a long history as a trading port and is largely an industrial city. While that may sound off-putting, it shouldn’t be. The city has a stunning Old Town, the Casco Viejo; amazing historic and contemporary architecture; fabulous food and drink; plenty of culture and art; and some rather good shopping, too.

Bilbao hit the tourist radar after the Guggenheim Bilbao was built by the river, and while the museum and its art are superb, Bilbao has so much more to offer than the Guggenheim.

Easily explored on foot, Bilbao is worth a visit, and you can spend a few days exploring, soaking up the atmosphere, and enjoying the beaches.

Views of Bilbao, Spain, from Mount Artxanda.

Pilar Andreu Rovira / Shutterstock

What To Do In Bilbao

Climb Mount Artxanda

When you arrive in a new city, it is always a good idea to climb to the highest viewpoint to get your bearings.

From the top of Mount Artxanda, you can truly appreciate Bilbao’s location nestled in the mountains and straddling the river. You can ascend by bright red funicular, and then leisurely meander down the hill with the city in front of you. Don’t forget to pose in front of the large Bilbao sign.

Pro Tip: Purchase a Bilbao Bizkaia Card for 24 hours up to 3 days, and you can use the funicular as part of the public transportation system.

Visit The Guggenheim Bilbao

Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Bilbao put Bilbao on the tourist map. The large silver building was inaugurated in October of 1997, and immediately visitors started to pour into the city.

Without even going into the world-class temporary exhibits, you can see the floral Puppy by Jeff Koons and the gigantic arachnid Maman by Louise Bourgeois outside. Once inside, you’ll see the stunning metal installation by Richard Serra. Take in the current exhibits as well, and you could easily spend up to a day in and around the museum.

Pro Tip: For the best pictures, go up to the bridge and across the river at night. The reflections are incredible.

The streets of Bilbao's Old Town, Casco Viejo.

Roel Slootweg / Shutterstock

Explore The Casco Viejo

The Old Town of Bilbao, Casco Viejo, is a maze of tiny lanes, steep hills, arcades, plazas, shops, and cafes. Some of its best sights include the numerous lovely churches, most notably the Catedral de Santiago, part of the northern route of the Camino de Santiago; the Euskal Museum, which offers archaeological insights into the region; and the Teatro Arriaga, which is stunning day and night.

Pro Tip: Make use of the various elevators around Casco Viejo to get up the hills and enjoy the views across the higgledy-piggledy rooftops of the Old Town.

Appreciate The Art At The Museo De Bellas Artes De Bilbao

The Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao is one of the country’s best museums outside of Madrid. The museum houses an extensive collection of Basque, Spanish, and European art, including masterpieces by El Greco, Goya, van Dyck, Cezanne, Gaugin, Francis Bacon, and Richard Serra. You could easily spend a morning at this lovely museum and its garden.

Pro Tip: Plan your visit around breakfast or lunchtime, since the little museum cafe is superb.

Ships at the Bilbao Maritime Museum.

ksl / Shutterstock

Learn About The Area’s Trading History At The Bilbao Maritime Museum

The Bilbao Maritime Museum, located in the city’s old shipyard, tells of Bilbao’s history as a seafaring and trading center. Interesting inside and out, the space is dotted with exhibits along the riverside outside the main building. You can learn about the Bilbao of the Middles Ages and of the Industrial Revolution and marvel at all sorts of seafaring vessels.

The museum is a treat for the whole family and a nice walk from Casco Viejo along the river. Allow at least 2 or 3 hours to explore the area.

Pro Tip: Keep an eye out for the fun street art.

Walk Across The Bizkaia Bridge

Even if you are not an engineer or bridge aficionado, this one is worth hopping on the metro for. Dating back to 1893 and built by a Gustave Eiffel disciple, the Bizkaia Bridge is the world’s oldest transporter bridge and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is unusual in that it has a beam at the top that you can reach by lift and walk across, and suspended from it is a gondola, essentially a piece of road, which moves along carrying cars from one side to the other. In addition to being an engineering marvel, it offers great views across the river toward the estuary.

Pro Tip: Sit on the left of the metro carriage on the way out and on the right on the way back for the best views

The Nervion River in Bilbao, Spain.

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Stroll The Banks Of The Nervion River

One of the loveliest things to enjoy in Bilbao is a simple walk along the river. Start at the Abando Train Station just opposite Casco Viejo. The old train station is in a lovely building with a superb stained glass window inside. Walk down the riverbank, passing the town hall, enjoying the reflections of the colorful house facades along the side, and note the mix of historic and hypermodern architecture. You’ll walk under — and maybe across — the interesting Zubizuri Bridge, past the Guggenheim, and through parkland to the Maritime Museum. Then return through the town past the Bullfighting Museum and back through the shopping area and Plaza Moyua for a perfect circuit.

Food from Bocadero in Bilbao, Spain.

Bocadero

Where To Eat In Bilbao

Food is an institution in Bilbao. If you only try two things, make them seafood and pintxos. Pintxos are the Basque equivalent of Spanish tapas; they come on small plates and are always accompanied by a good glass of red wine. There is nothing better than a pintxos crawl along Plaza Barria, the old enclosed plaza in Casco Viejo, eating your way through the pintxos restaurants lining the square.

Zaharra

Zaharra is my personal favorite of the Plaza Barria pintxos restaurants; it’s tiny and cozy. You sit along a small bar and just point to the delicious little morsels in front of you. The staff is friendly, the wine good, and the pintxos are to die for.

Bocadero

Bocadero is a great space just behind the main drag. This restaurant’s decor is just as pleasing as the food. From salads, pasta, and rice dishes to fresh fish, meat, and even pizza, there is something for everybody, and everything I tried, I would order again. And if you are even vaguely interested in interior design, you’ll love the bathrooms!

Churros

Just opposite the theater, on the other side of the bridge next to the bus stops, is a churro stand. Churros are essentially long donuts sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon and often served with dipping chocolate — really bad for you, but so good. Grab a bag of them to nibble on while you walk along the river. You won’t regret it.

If you’d rather sit down, find the Cafeteria de Arenal, which also offers excellent churros.

A street with shops in Old Town Bilbao, Spain.

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Where To Shop In Bilbao

Bilbao has some seriously good shopping. The Casco Viejo boasts smaller, quirkier boutiques; the grand avenue of Via de Don Diego Lopez de Haro is home to chains such as Zara and the old department store El Corte Ingles Gran Via; and the Plaza Moyua has all the luxury stores. Plenty of pedestrianized streets lead off of the main drag and off of Plaza Moyua.

For something a little different, there are the markets. The flower market takes over the area around Arenal Park every Sunday morning, and in the same location you’ll find an organic local produce market between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.

If you like markets, the Mercado de la Ribera is a must-see, not just for the fresh produce on sale over three floors, but also for the art deco building dating to 1930. Right by the side of the river nearby, you’ll find plenty of smaller stores and cafes below an arcade.

Where To Stay In Bilbao

Petit Palace Arana

The Petit Palace Arana is a small hotel on the edge of Casco Viejo. It’s by the river, next to the theater, and within walking distance of all the sights, restaurants, and shopping mentioned here. You can get a room for a reasonable price, too.

Penthouse With Cathedral Views

This is one of the nicest apartments I have ever stayed in — a fabulous open space full of art and great views of the Old Town. It’s located right in Casco Viejo, but it is not noisy. The only downside is that there is no elevator.

Hotel Carlton

For a grander luxury option, consider the elegant Hotel Carlton, a Second Empire-style hotel on Plaza Moyua. It would not look out of place in Paris, and it’s right in the middle of the best shopping area.

Colorado Road Trip: Denver To Grand Junction

Colorado is at the heart of the incredible Rocky Mountains, and nature lovers from around the world flock here to take in the stunning mountain vistas and enjoy outdoor activities. One of our favorite road trips of all time runs from Denver to Grand Junction straight through the Continental Divide near the Utah border.

While you could make the trip in 4 hours on the interstate, we recommend going off the beaten path to take in some truly majestic mountain views and experience a few charming mining towns along the way. It’s a gorgeous trip no matter the time of year — and a great way to make memories.

Here are some great stops to make when driving from Denver to Grand Junction.

The skyline of Denver, Colorado.

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Denver

Denver, Colorado’s bustling capital city, is also the state’s largest city. While there are the terrific museums, sights, and amenities one would expect from a city of its size, we love to spend our time close to the city center, since it’s jam-packed with activities and is quite walkable.

Stroll the 16th Street Mall, a pedestrian-only stretch of shops, galleries, and boutiques. Spend some time at the Colorado State Capitol, and marvel at the building’s gilded dome, a nod to the state’s Gold Rush past. And don’t forget a stop at the Denver Art Museum on the outskirts of the Capitol Hill neighborhood, which features more than 70,000 works of art.

Pro Tip: Plan to stay at the Brown Palace; the historic spot located in the heart of downtown offers beautiful accommodations and serves up an epic and decadent high tea. For a dinner splurge, Mizuna is a true French treat with its tiny dining room and incredible ambience.

Main street in Idaho Springs, Colorado.

littlenySTOCK / Shutterstock

Idaho Springs

As you head out on Interstate 70, be sure to make a lunch stop in Idaho Springs, Colorado, about 30 miles west of Denver. The small town was founded by gold prospectors in 1859. Today, the town’s Miner Street is home to charming shops and cute cafes, including the legendary Beau Jo’s Pizza. Forget about counting calories or carbs here — these mountain pies are deep-dish and feel like they’re mile-high! Be sure to save your crusts; you can dip them in honey for dessert.

Downtown Frisco, Colorado.

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Frisco

Continuing west, you’ll come to the town of Frisco, close to some of Colorado’s most famous ski resorts. While it makes a terrific home base for winter sports fanatics ready to hit the slopes, there’s much more to the area. Main Street has a great collection of shops and eateries, and on the eastern end, there’s the Frisco Bay Marina, the entrance to the Dillon Reservoir. It’s a great place to burn some calories with a quick paddleboat or kayak trip — or simply kick back with a waterfront meal (weather permitting, of course!).

Skyline of Leadville, Colorado.

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Leadville

From Copper Mountain, take Colorado State Highway 91 south for a stop in Leadville, Colorado. This town was founded by prospectors who hoped to make fortunes mining gold, silver, or even lead. Leadville was a place where the West was truly wild, and where Doc Holliday and the Unsinkable Molly Brown had roots. Today, Leadville’s city center is a National Historic District with 70 square blocks of Victorian architecture crammed with tall tales and legends. Consider a walking tour to really take it all in.

Outdoor adventures also abound, with great biking and hiking options in and around town, including the gorgeous glacial Twin Lakes and San Isabel National Forest.

Pro Tip: Leadville makes a great overnight stop; the Delaware Hotel is like a step back in time. While not over-the-top luxe, it is comfortable and loaded with history.

Downtown Aspe, Colorado.

Oscity / Shutterstock

Aspen

From Leadville, a jog west on State Highway 82 will eventually land you in one of the country’s poshest winter wonderlands. We’re talking about Aspen, where celebrities go to ski, shop, and be seen during the winter months.

No matter the time you visit, there will always be something to see and do. Hike nearby Maroon Bells or the trails if you want to get in some cardio. Check out any number of Aspen’s cultural offerings, including its renowned art museum or music festival. For your Gucci or Burberry fix, shop Aspen’s high-end boutiques in the city center, or if the mountain air has you feeling dried out, consider a trip to the spa. The Auberge in Hotel Jerome is a favorite of locals and visitors alike.

Pro Tip: For a splurge, consider a stay at the spot where the stars often flock: The Little Nell. And for fine dining with a laid-back, mountain feel, Jimmy’s is a great choice.

A public hot springs pool in Glenwood Springs, Colorado.

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Glenwood Springs

Take State Highway 82 another 40 miles out of Aspen, and you’ll rejoin Interstate 70 at Glenwood Springs, Colorado. You’ll want to make time to explore this town, made famous by its restorative mineral hot springs. If you’ve got the time, consider a dip! There are three hot springs in town. You can’t go wrong checking out the original at the Glenwood Hot Springs Resort, home to the world’s largest hot springs pool. It has been welcoming visitors since 1888, and you can take a soak, schedule a spa treatment, and even stay the night at the historic lodge.

Like most of the mountain mining towns on this road trip, Glenwood Springs has a terrific downtown with great shopping and dining options. For a delicious, no-fuss meal, get to Slope & Hatch, where you’ll find some of the best tacos anywhere. The hot dogs are also tops!

Rifle Falls, near the town of Rifle, Colorado.

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Rifle

Heading west on Interstate 70 from Glenwood Springs, you’ll notice a shift in the landscape. Instead of high country, you’re now in the mesas, where the land has historically been used for ranching. It’s also here where the town names start to get pretty interesting.

Take Rifle, Colorado, for instance. Legend has it that the town was named after a rancher set his weapon along a creek in the area, which is now quite popular with rock climbers and adventurers. Rifle Mountain Park has 250 climbing routes, most catering to the sport’s elite. Rifle Falls, with its limestone caves and triple waterfall, is a terrific place to explore and enjoy a picnic. The Rifle Heritage Center is also worth a stop to learn more about what life was like in this part of Colorado way back when.

Continue west on Interstate 70; you’ll pass the small town of Parachute, Colorado, which means you’re getting close to your final destination on this epic mountain road trip.

Aerial view of Grand Junction, Colorado.

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Grand Junction

The final stop on this road trip is located in the heart of the Grand Valley at the junction of the Garrison and Colorado Rivers. Grand Junction, Colorado, founded in 1881, has always been bustling, once serving as a commerce center due to its railroads. It’s still an agricultural crossroads and the center of Colorado’s thriving wine country.

Downtown Grand Junction is tree-lined, charming, walkable, and packed with fun shops and cafes. The recently renovated Avalon Theatre hosts a wide variety of fine arts performances and concerts, while the Museum of the West tells the story of all the people who shaped this area — including Native American tribes, Spanish colonists, and later pioneers, cattle ranchers, and cowboys.

Hiking, biking, and rafting are all popular activities in the area, and the nearby Colorado National Monument, with its epic sandstone formations and sweeping vistas, is absolutely worth a visit.

Pro Tip: Grand Junction is big enough to offer travelers a wide range of accommodations, but the Wine Country Inn in nearby Palisade, Colorado, stands out. The Victorian-style hotel is set in the middle of a 21-acre vineyard and is adjacent to two wineries.

What To Know Before You Go

Remember, you are traveling at altitude — and in some spots, high altitude. Be judicious with your alcohol consumption, guzzle water, and keep Advil on hand should you start to feel ill or get a headache.

Also, don’t forget to stop along the way, even outside of the suggestions here, to take in the majestic scenery. Of course, you’ll want to get lots of photos, but make sure you stay safe when snapping those selfies.

9 Must-Visit Craft Breweries In Portland, Oregon

Portland, Oregon, is the epicenter of craft beer, and that becomes obvious to visitors as soon as they arrive. From the dozens of brewpubs around the city to the wide range of beers sold in every bar and restaurant, this city knows how to brew really good beer.

The only difficulty is deciding where to start. There are 58 breweries in the city, so visitors can easily become overwhelmed by the options. But with some help from locals, we’ve developed a list of nine that are definitely worth a visit.

1. Ecliptic Brewing

When you combine astronomy with beer, you get Ecliptic Brewing. Every six weeks, this brewery’s menu changes to highlight seasonal and local ingredients, and many of the beers have names related to the solar system. Ecliptic’s founder, John Harris, had a long career in the brewing industry working for well-respected companies like McMenamins before finally launching his own brewery and brewpub.

Many guests recommend the Starburst IPA, which is available all year round. And if you’re a lover of sour beers, there are always a few varieties available. If you’re hungry, be sure to order one of the highly rated burgers.

Located on Mississippi Avenue, Ecliptic has a large outdoor patio, making it a great place to hang out with friends on a weekend afternoon or evening. The neighborhood offers a nice selection of restaurants and shops, so consider exploring before or after enjoying a beer.

2. Hair Of The Dog Brewing Company

Brewers Alan Sprints and Denver Bon operate Hair of the Dog Brewing Company, which specializes in new and unusual beers. Many of their beers are bottle-conditioned or refermented in the bottle, resulting in beers that improve with age. Hair of the Dog also experiments with barrel-aging beer, sometimes in barrels previously used for spirits.

If you enjoy dark beers, definitely try the Adam, a rich brew with notes of chocolate. IPA lovers will like the Blue Dot, a double IPA. And if beer isn’t your thing, try one of the ciders or barley wines. Just proceed with caution, since most of the beers have a higher alcohol content.

Hair of the Dog can be found in Portland’s Southeast Industrial neighborhood and has a full menu featuring a wide variety of sandwiches and snacks. Meat lovers will appreciate the brisket, which locals say is excellent.

Base Camp Brewing Company.

Joshua Rainey Photography / Shutterstock

3. Base Camp Brewing Company

Outdoor-themed Base Camp Brewing Company is well known for its ales and lagers. Founders Ross Putnam and Justin Fay grew up together in Oregon and wanted their taproom to reflect their love of adventure and nature. As a result, you’ll find tables made of large wooden slabs, a canoe hanging over the bar, and carabiners used as tap handles.

Locals recommend the Send It IPA, which features hops grown in Oregon. But if this is your first time visiting, definitely order the S’more Stout. This rich, dark beer has the subtle taste of chocolate and is served with a toasted marshmallow.

Located in Portland’s Buckman neighborhood, Base Camp does not serve food, but there is at least one food truck on the premises every day. Food truck options may include Sherpa Kitchen, which serves Nepalese food, or Poblano Pepper, which offers Mexican food.

4. Sasquatch Brewing

If there are both beer lovers and cider drinkers in your party, then Sasquatch Brewing is the ideal destination. Founder Tom Sims and head brewer Mike Paladino are committed to using local ingredients in both their beverages and food, as well as giving back to the community.

Sasquatch offers a nice range of beverages, including sours, Belgian ales, IPAs, ciders, and even locally made wine. Regulars love the Woodboy IPA and Hairy Knuckle Stout.

There are two options for sampling these beers — Hillsdale Brewpub and Northwest Brewery & Taproom, each named for the neighborhood in which they are located. The first serves classic comfort food like mac and cheese and chili, while the second offers sandwiches.

5. Gigantic Brewing Company

At Gigantic Brewing Company, not only is the beer unique, but so are the labels on the bottles. For each new release, Gigantic commissions an artist to design the label and a corresponding commemorative poster. This unique idea was conceived by owners and brewers Van Havig and Ben Love.

This is definitely the place for IPA lovers. Be sure to try the Gigantic and Ginormous Imperial IPAs, which are always available, or the highly rated, seasonal Cloudberry IPA. Craft beer aficionados love the Hellboy Beer, created to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the publication of the popular comic book series Hellboy: Seed of Destruction.

Gigantic Brewing can be found near Reed College in the Eastmoreland neighborhood. Currently, food is not served, but guests are welcome to bring a picnic or purchase food from the nearby food carts.

6. Zoiglhaus Brewing Company

If you’re looking for German-style beer, look no further than Zoiglhaus Brewing Company. Many of its beers are brewed with malts and hops imported from Germany. Head brewer Alan Taylor brings to Portland years of experience living, drinking, and brewing in Germany.

You’ll typically find 10 beers on tap at Zoiglhaus, and if you’re not sure where to start, try the pilsner for a typical German experience. Or if you want something more adventurous, order the award-winning dark beer, the D’light Schwarzbier.

Zoiglhaus is located in the Lents neighborhood of Portland. Classic pub food is served along with a few German specialties. This is an ideal spot for families, since it offers a large play area for kids.

7. Cascade Brewing

Sour beers were created in Portland, and Cascade Brewing is probably the best place in the nation to sample a wide variety of them. Owner Art Larrance and brewmaster Ron Gansberg were tired of hoppy beers and wanted to create sour ales using local fruit. Over the past two decades, Cascade has expanded to include a restaurant, a tasting room, and a blending house and production facility, making the company one of the most recognized names in the world of sour beers.

If you’ve never tried a sour beer before, then this is a great opportunity to ask the bartender or server to assist you. The range of sourness will vary, as the types of fruit used in these ales include pears, peaches, raspberries, grapes, and more. But if sour isn’t for you, don’t worry — there are IPAs available as well as cider and wine.

If you’re looking for a sit-down restaurant to enjoy a full meal with your beer, then head to The Lodge at Cascade Brewing in Southwest Portland. Or, for a more intimate experience, visit Cascade Brewing Barrel House on the east side of the city.

8. Ex Novo Brewing Co.

Ex Novo Brewing Co. set out to brew great beer and donate 100 percent of its profits to local and international charitable organizations. Founder and owner Joel Gregory started out as a home brewer, but then decided to expand operations to a retail setting. Today he operates three brewpubs, two of which are in the Portland area.

Ex Novo offers a lineup that includes IPAs, lagers, and sour beers. Among the best-loved offerings are the Eliot IPA and the Most Interesting Lager in the World. If you enjoy reds, definitely try the Hollywood Moon Landing.

The original brewpub located in the Eliot neighborhood serves a variety of food, including burgers, tacos, and fried chicken. The second location in the suburb of Beaverton offers pizza and sandwiches. The third location is in Corrales, New Mexico.

9. Breakside Brewery

Breakside Brewery might just serve some of Portland’s most popular IPAs. In a short period of time, owner Scott Lawrence and brewmaster Ben Edmunds have garnered over two dozen regional, national, and international awards. Their beers can be found in restaurants and stores in 11 states.

IPA lovers will definitely want to try either the Breakside IPA or Wanderlust IPA. Or try Rainbows & Unicorns, a beer that features the flavors of peach and pineapple. In addition to the six beers available year-round, there are at least three rotating brews offered each month.

Breakside offers three different brewpub locations: SE Taproom, NW Slabtown, and NE Dekum Pub, each named for its location. The taproom does not offer food, but it does allow customers to bring their own. The other locations offer classic pub food like burgers, wraps, and pretzels.

Tips For Enjoying Beer In Portland

Bartenders and serving staff in Portland are well versed in the beers on the menu, so don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations. Or better yet, ask for samples of two or three that interest you. And if you really want to explore the beers at a particular brewery, order the sampler.

If you’ve enjoyed a beer, ask if it’s available to go or at local retail outlets. Many breweries do sell their most popular selections in cans or bottles.

Try something new while visiting Portland. This is definitely the place to sample a hazy IPA, sour, porter, or stout. It would be a shame to order the same variety of beer you usually have at home. Again, ask the server for some advice, and you might just discover a new favorite.

For more on Portland, see this page.

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