Recently, my partner in travel crime invited me to meet her in Montreal for a short getaway. She lives just across the border in Vermont, only a two-hour drive away.
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The stars aligned perfectly. Not only were we able to take time off, but the trip dates also aligned with the height of Quebec’s fall season. Though we would only have four days and three nights in the city, it would be enough to get a feel for Montreal.
We booked an Airbnb in Mile End, a trendy and walkable neighborhood near Parc du Mont-Royal that’s home to boutique shops and cozy eateries. It gave us the freedom to walk around and stumble upon gem after gem. We also took on Old Montreal after a delicious morning spent at Bota Bota Spa—which was one of my favorite experiences. (More on this below.)
If you’re looking for a little inspiration on what to do, start with my list of favorite experiences in Montreal. Plus, I’ve listed out two activities that we didn’t have time for but wish we did.
My favorite experiences in Montreal
Bota Bota, Spa-sur-‘leau
I’m a bit of a spa snob, and Bota Bota is one of the best I’ve been to—and that includes spa visits in Warsaw, Barcelona, New York City, Hamburg, and multiple locations in rural Switzerland. Bota Bota stands with the best, in my opinion.
The massage was professional and relaxing, making an immediate difference where I had stiffness before. There are two different soaking areas, one where chatting is allowed and a silent area. There are also plenty of spots to nap, read a book, and otherwise unwind as you shuffle between hot pools, cold plunges, saunas, and steam rooms.
The restaurant was delicious, the staff were pleasant and helpful, and despite the large-scale nature of the operation, I didn’t feel overwhelmed by the number of guests. I also didn’t get lost.
Did I mention it’s also located on a defunct barge in the middle of the St. Lawrence River? It’s pricey, but it’s worth it.
Fairmount Bagel
On my taxi to my Airbnb in Mile End, I spotted a few members of the Hasidic community, a sect of ultra-Orthodox Judaism. Having lived in Brooklyn, I immediately started thinking about bagels. (Is that problematic? I can’t tell.)
Turns out, Montreal has an affinity for bagels. They’re thinner and denser than their NYC counterparts, and cream cheese is spread on top of the bagel, for some reason—but they’re just as delicious.
I ate my heart out at Fairmount Bagel. I recommend trying the everything bagel, which went by a different name that I can’t remember.
Just know that this location accepts Canadian cash or will charge a fee for an American card or US dollars. It isn’t a scam, I promise. It’s because the shop has to convert your currency for you, and that’s not part of a bagel shop’s purview. Take out a few Canadian dollars if you want to avoid the small fee.
Joie de Livres Bookstore & Libraire Maktaba Bookshop
If you’re a book nerd like me, you’re going to be spoiled in Montreal. If you’re a fantasy-romance book nerd like me, you might even feel like you’re in the promised land. Head immediately to Joie de Livres in Mild End.
It’s a bookstore and café that caters to readers like me, who enjoy tall, fantastical tales that may or may not involve witches falling in love with werewolves, and similar fare. We’re an underrepresented group when it comes to physical bookstores—but not in Joie de Livres!
I also walked away with books from Libraire Maktaba Bookshop in Old Montreal. It had a wide selection of Middle Eastern books, from poems to essays to fiction. Plus, you can shop for a select range of vinyl. There’s also a lovely sitting area where you can read your books. I was also shocked and delighted by their speculative fiction shelves—it was like a who’s-who of authors from around the world.
Mount Royal Lookout
If you enjoy expansive urban parks with mature, healthy trees, don’t miss out on Mount Royal Park and its lookout. I can’t promise that you’ll be wowed if you live in a more rural place that has gorgeous fall foliage, but I was pretty bowled over by how large and immersive the park was.
I didn’t hear the sirens or honking common to cities. Instead, I was lost in a fall foliage wonderland.
Just know that the lookout is a bit of a hike, and the small eatery at the lookout doesn’t sell wine. (That felt very un-French of the Quebecois.) Having just spent half a day on a plane, stretching my legs at Mount Royal was a great way to get settled.
Boutique Shopping in Mile End
Joie de Livres, the bookstore I shouted out above, is located on the main drag in Mile End. My friend and I spent an afternoon wandering down each side of the street, which is lined with boutiques, cafes, tasting rooms, and restaurants.
There was also a local festival called Phenomena going on, with many shopfronts sporting unique artworks from the festival.
It was the perfect spot to get to know Mile End’s trendiest projects. Plus, I’m a big fan of exploring neighborhoods aimlessly. It’s a great way to stumble upon little gems like Joie de Livres, along with wine shops with outdoor seating and cafes where locals chat it up.
Old Port Montreal Festivities
Speaking of wandering through a neighborhood aimlessly, I had a wonderful time people-watching in Old Montreal’s Old Port. The area has small shops, eateries, and other activities geared toward families year-round. When I visited, there was a large ropes course for kids, Ferris wheel, and a carnival-like series of rides. While we didn’t play any games or go on the Ferris wheel, the general atmosphere was lovely.
Expo World Press Photo Montreal
Every year, Montreal hosts the World Press Photo exhibition. I was lucky enough to be in town for this year’s event. Not only did it give me a great way to experience the famous Bonsecours Market, but the exhibits were also top-notch.
There was a global series on the main floor, along with exhibits specific to Quebec and Montreal on the upper floor. If you’ll be visiting during mid-late October, make sure to stop in.
I’m not normally a fan of photography, but this isn’t your average exhibit. It was well worth the small fee to enter. Just know that it gets very busy, so you’ll need to snake around people to get a view of each photo.
Things I wish I had done in Montreal
The Underground City
Travel confession: I had no idea about Montreal’s Underground City. In fact, when someone first brought it up to me and my friend, we thought they were lying. An underground city sounds like the perfect way to lure someone into an inescapable trap.
Turns out, Montreal is home to around 20 square miles of underground mall-like fare. It was designed to help locals escape the winter chill and is converted from now-defunct metro lines.
There’s an arts district, a Chinatown, and more waiting for you below Montreal. It’s also home to popular destinations, including the Barbie Expo. So, if someone invites you to an underground city in Montreal, fear not—it’s a real place, and I missed out because I wanted another bagel from Fairmount.
Notre-Dame Basilica
I’m a sucker for a gorgeous church, and I missed out on one of North America’s most commanding locations. Notre-Dame Basilica is the oldest Catholic church in Montreal, dating back to 1656. Much of it has been reconstructed since then, with ornate and colorful decals that will have you staring upwards in wonder for minutes on end. Or so I’ve heard.
