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Stunning Hikes In The North Fork Area Of Glacier National Park (And Why You Should Visit)

Stunning Hikes In The North Fork Area Of Glacier National Park (And Why You Should Visit)

The North Fork of Glacier National Park is a hidden gem with great hiking, spectacular views, plenty of wildlife, and a quirky store called Polebridge Mercantile.

The North Fork is a 40-mile drive from the west entrance to the park. The first 11 miles are paved, but the remainder of the drive is rough and rocky. If you go, be sure to know how to change a flat tire.

The challenging road is a main reason so few people visit the region.

On the way to the stunning lakes, it’s almost a requirement to stop at the old-fashioned Polebridge Mercantile. The place was built in 1914, just four years after the park was created. Bill Adair built the general store, which catered to the 150 or so families in the Flathead River valley.

Polebridge Mercantile store, the historic bakery and general store near Glacier National Park
melissamn / Shutterstock.com

Today, it’s a must-stop for those visiting the region. The store is noted for its incredible huckleberry bear claws. They are always baking them, so the chance of biting into one steaming from the oven is very high. The store is full of touristy things, like ball caps and refrigerator magnets. But it’s also a general store, serving the community of farmers, ranchers, and campers.

The mercantile also has some cabins to rent. They are rustic and there’s no running water in them. They are popular and reservations are a must.

Next door to the mercantile is the only restaurant for miles around, The Northern Lights Saloon. And you are north here, just about 20 miles from the Canadian border. However, you can’t drive easily to Canada since the closest border crossing has been closed for several years. The next closest is a two-plus hour drive.

After fortifying yourself at the mercantile with baked goods, leave time enough to burn off those calories. There’s spectacular hiking in the North Fork area. The roads are rocky and narrow but navigable. A vehicle with a high clearance is best, so leave your Corvette in the garage!

Bowman Lake in Glacier National Park.

Ed Daniel

Bowman Lake To Numa Ridge

Leave Polebridge and head northeast to Bowman Lake. It’s just a 7.5-mile drive, but it’ll take all of 30 minutes to get there. You’ll be driving along the Inside North Fork Road. About halfway to the lake, you’ll come to the Polebridge entrance station. Here’s where you may learn that there’s no parking available at Bowman Lake. Heed the advice of the ranger. If there is parking, and there should be earlier in the day (and the season), you’ll be heading to Numa Ridge.

It’s a great little hike that takes you to a fire lookout tower, and with luck, there will be a person working there. Often, the fire watchers are happy to give a tour of their workspace, which doubles as their living space. It’s a sparse existence, but watchers I’ve met over the years wouldn’t give up the experience for love or money. If the tower stairs are blocked with a chain, don’t visit.

The hike starts to the left of Bowman Lake parking lot and it’s clearly marked. As you get going, you’ll see a house to your left and in the lake, on the left, a boat. This house is the ranger’s residence. If he/she is in the yard, they’ll often be willing to talk about the area and give you any updates on hikes in the area. Do not enter the property. Remember, this is someone’s home.

Mount Cater in Glacier National Park.

Ed Daniel

The walk to the tower is along Bowman Lake, along a ridgeline, and it’s a moderately strenuous walk, just about 11 miles long roundtrip. The elevation gain is about 3,000 feet. The stroll is in forest most of the way, so the views are limited to peeks of Bowman Lake. After about five miles, you come up the ridge and the views improve considerably. Then it’s a short walk to the tower.

Even if the tower is closed, there are great views from the top of the ridge, especially of Mount Carter across Bowman Lake. Carter is one of the tallest peaks in Glacier, at 9,800 feet.

Views along the Quartz Lake Loop trail.

Ed Daniel

Quartz Lake Loop

This hike gains about 1,500 feet in elevation, but it takes you up and down, with an 1,100-foot elevation loss. The moderately difficult hike has a lot to offer: views of the Quartz Lakes, a stroll through a forest burned in 1988, which is giving way from fireweed to young lodgepole pine trees, and views of mountains in the Livingston Range.

This hike is almost 13 miles long, so you need to get an early start and bring plenty of water, but it’s a loop, so you end up where you started and you don’t see the same thing twice. The hike starts opposite where the hike to Numa Ridge begins, on the south side of the parking area.

When you get to a fork in the trail, just past Bowman Creek, which drains the lake, go left and you’ll enjoy an easier walk. A right takes you along a much steeper path. Trust me: Go left. The trail rises to the top of Cerulean Ridge and then down into the Quartz Lake drainage. It’s lowlands and drops to a campground at the foot of Quartz Lake.

The trail follows Quartz Creek, and you climb back up through a burn area that is teeming with new life: grasses, fireweed, and, if you are lucky, bear grass. Bear grass isn’t a grass but a member of the lily family. The flowers are in a bunch at the top of a stalk.

A burn area at Logging Lake.

Ed Daniel

Logging Lake

This stroll is relatively easy and covers just about 8.5 miles round trip. You follow Logging Creek and eventually walk along the lake itself. The elevation gain is less than 500 feet, so it is not at all difficult. The views are limited until you get to the lake itself, and then the vistas open up.

The trail takes you through several burn areas, and while they look devastated, realize the National Park Service says fire is a natural part of the forest landscape. The park is regenerating thanks to fire. The larger burn area is the result of the 2001 Moose Fire, and the smaller burn happened in 1994.

There’s a greater diversity of flora growing in the burn areas and they will eventually become a forest. The first plant that colonizes after a burn is fireweed, which holds the soil for the other plants to get going. The first tree to move in is the lodgepole pine. The tree has a cone that is sealed with a thick resin. The only time the cone opens is when there’s a fire and it tosses seeds everywhere. You multiply all those seeds by all those cones and all those trees, and in 20 years or so, you get a brand new forest. That’s what’s happening in all the burn areas.

A moose in Glacier National Park.

Ed Daniel

You can stop at the foot of Logging Lake and look for eagles in the air. They nest at the head of the lake and take their young on far-ranging fishing expeditions. You can keep walking along the lake and keep your ear tuned for the sound of loons. There’s lots of wildlife along the trail in the valley. Look for deer, moose, and squirrels. The word is that mountain lions inhabit the area, which is not busy with hikers, but the word on lions from rangers is that you never see them until they are jumping on your back.

This part of the park is one of the least visited and has limited services, so bring plenty of water and patience, as the roads can be harrowing if you confront another motorist coming in the opposite direction.

Fortunately, that’s never a problem on the hiking trails.

Want more? Read up on the best hikes in Glacier National Park.

5 Easy-To-Grow Plants With International Flavors

During World War II, victory gardens were all the rage. Personal lawns and public lands were dug up to grow crops for home use and to feed the troops. In fact, some of America’s most famous public spaces, like the Boston Common, were used to plant crops.

Today, talk of victory gardens is back! As passionate travelers are putting their plans on hold and looking to be more self-sufficient during the COVID-19 health crisis, personal gardens are gaining popularity. Thankfully, a personal garden doesn’t require a massive commitment to be successful and fruitful. And when you’re inspired by some of your favorite flavors from around the world, it’s even more fun.

Here are some easy plants to inspire your summer garden plans and future menus.

Radishes for sale at a market stall in France.

timsimages.uk / Shutterstock

1. Radishes — France

Radishes are simply rad. They’re the instant gratification item of the garden world — they can take as little as 25 days to go from seed to salad! Even better, if you’re impatient, you’ll be pleased to know that there’s no advantage to keeping them in the ground longer. Mature radishes tend to be woody and sharp tasting.

I have to admit that I was never a fan of sliced radishes in a salad. But eating radishes in the French style is enormously more appealing. There are two hugely popular variations of the radish-based lunch in France.

One is to simply grate the radishes with a box-style cheese grater and sponge off any excess moisture. Mix the shredded radishes with butter and slather the mixture on a fresh baguette with a pinch of salt and pepper, and add a soup or salad on the side.

An even simpler variation involves using the whole radish itself to spoon up globs of softened butter, sprinkling a bit of salt on top, and eating the radish whole — of course, with some yummy bread on the side.

Radishes are also divine when they’re roasted in the oven, much like a small potato, or tucked underneath a roasting chicken so they can sizzle in the drippings. Their flavor mellows considerably. Top the soft, creamy roasted radishes with a dash of aged balsamic vinegar, some fresh Parmesan cheese, or — the most French of all — more butter.

Bell peppers for sale at a market stall in Australia.

Anak Surasarang / Shutterstock

2. Bell Peppers — Australia

While Australia is famous for its grilled meat, bell peppers are also a big part of the country’s culinary repertoire.

Bell peppers rubbed with olive oil, salt, and pepper are amazing when barbecued and served alongside roasted lamb or grilled burgers topped with local favorites like pineapple, sliced beetroot, and fried eggs. They’re also perfect in a vegan kebab or tossed with grilled zucchini, eggplant, red onion, avocado, a touch of lemon juice, and olive oil as a hearty chunky vegetable salad.

Bell peppers are easy to grow, but they do love sunshine — ideally 6 to 8 hours a day. They don’t tolerate frost, and they usually take a minimum of 100 days to develop. No wonder they thrive in Australian gardens! But if you have warm weather, you can grow a wide variety of bells. Chocolate Beauty and Purple Beauty have striking shades that live up to their colorful names.

A plate of bean sprouts from Thailand.

Piyada Machathikun / Shutterstock

3. Bean Sprouts — Thailand

Thailand offers so much incredible produce, from tiny, fiery chilis to juicy mangoes. But for the low-key gardener, nothing is so easy and so gratifying as bean sprouts — you can use them to top pad Thai, fill spring rolls and wraps, and heap on fresh salads. You don’t even need any outdoor space at all!

Bean sprouts, along with other kinds of sprouts, can be ready to eat in as little as five days — really! You can grow them in a mason jar, and they don’t require any special care. You can read up on how to create your own kitchen mason jar garden here.

Ultra-healthy bean sprouts are terrific in Thai dishes like stir-fried bean sprouts with tofu and garlic chives and classic pad Thai.

Butternut squash from Zimbabwe.

Svitlana Pimenov / Shutterstock

4. Butternut Squash — Zimbabwe

Hearty, easy-to-grow, and long-lasting squash varieties can be found all over the world, but when I think of the crowd-pleasing butternut squash, I think of Zimbabwe. Roasted butternut soup is a popular first course at a number of restaurants, like the hugely popular Boma dinner show in Victoria Falls. Cubes of butternut are also tucked into stews and curries. You’ll find them in platters of roasted vegetables, in baked cups filled with ground meat and topped with melted cheese, and in nhopi, a creamy, sweet, buttery mash made with a hint of peanut butter.

Butternut squash are easy to grow but delicate in their early days — make sure there’s no risk of frost after you put them in the ground. They thrive with plenty of fertilizer, and some people even toss their seeds directly into their compost pile for maximum growth. If stored in a cool, dry place, they’ll last up to three months.

Ripe tomatoes growing in Italy.

Frank L Junior / Shutterstock

5. Tomatoes — Italy

If you’re new to gardening, tomatoes are extremely user friendly and are the backbone of recipes all around the world, from Mexico to Malawi. But no one does tomatoes quite like Italy.

I always plant two kinds of tomatoes: a large beefsteak-style tomato, perfect for toasted tomato sandwiches and topping burgers, and a small cherry or grape tomato that produces huge bunches of fruit perfect for salads. Both are great in Italian tomato sauce or bruschetta.

During my time in Rome, I learned that the secret to a beautiful bruschetta is giving the flavors time to meld. Mix together a bowl of chopped tomatoes, some shredded basil leaves, a sprinkling of sea salt, and some quality olive oil, and let it sit while you prepare the rest of your dinner. When it’s ready to serve, toast some bread and lightly rub each slice with a clove of garlic and give it a brush of olive oil. At the very last minute, top the bread with the tomato mixture.

Another super-simple Italian recipe for the beginner gardener is a batch of old-fashioned tomato Pomodoro sauce. In Italy, tomato sauce is minimalist in nature and is the embodiment of clean, simple cooking. Let finely chopped onions simmer in a sturdy pan that you’ve coated with a generous layer of quality olive oil. After a few moments, add a bowl of peeled, squashed tomatoes. After 10 to 20 minutes, add some torn basil, a pinch of salt, pepper, dried oregano, and maybe a garlic clove to infuse a little extra flavor as the sauce cools.

Tomatoes will thrive in any sunny spot, from a tiny apartment balcony to a corner of your backyard. They only require a big drink of water a couple of times a week. And if they’re particularly large and gangly, they’ll need some support for their heavy stems — you can lash them to your porch railing or stick a tall, sturdy stick in their pot and secure them with some yarn.

Be Bold!

In my garden this summer, I’m testing my skills and branching out. I’m planting kohlrabi in honor of my time in Prague, where I discovered the joy of putting thin, crispy slices on buttered rye bread. I’m also planting jalapenos so that I can finally replicate the amazing salsa I tried outside Zion National Park. Finally, I’m creating a bed for parsnips so that I can prepare the perfect pan of roasted vegetables that I had in Scotland.

So be bold! Gardening is part research, part trial and error, and part luck. Anyone can do it.

Where To Buy Your Seeds

Heritage Harvest Seed offers more than 800 varieties of rare heirloom seeds from all over the world.

With a mission to save heirloom seeds from around the world, Seed Savers Exchange sells funky international varieties sure to inspire your next gardening project.

Renee’s Garden Seeds, a garden-to-table seed company, serves home gardeners and provides high-performing seeds.

How To Spend A Perfect Weekend On Salt Spring Island, British Columbia

Salt Spring Island is the largest of the southern Gulf Islands of British Columbia, Canada. It lies in the Strait of Georgia in between the mainland of British Columbia and Vancouver Island.

Salt Spring Island is the absolute perfect place to spend a weekend if you are looking to relax, get close to the natural world, and step back in time to when life seemed a bit simpler. Towering pine trees, salty fresh air, and craggy coastlines will have you breathing easily all weekend long. Local organic produce and the thriving art scene will add another layer of magic to this island getaway.

A ferry in the waters of Salt Spring Island.

Roxana Gonzalez / Shutterstock

Getting To Salt Spring Island

There are three towns with ferry terminals on Salt Spring Island: Fulford Harbour, Vesuvius, and Long Harbour. It is important to plan where you are sailing from and where you will arrive.

Pro Tip: To plan your perfect weekend on Salt Spring Island, check out the BCFerries schedule. It is highly recommended to make a ferry reservation online, especially during the summer months. Also, be sure to arrive at the ferry terminal well in advance of the scheduled crossing.

From Vancouver’s Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal

There is no direct ferry from Tsawwassen to Salt Spring Island. Travel first to Victoria’s Swartz Bay Terminal and then transfer ferries to arrive at Fulford Harbour on Salt Spring Island. This journey will take about two hours and 30 minutes.

From Victoria’s Swartz Bay Terminal

The ferry arrives at Fulford Harbour on Salt Spring Island. The crossing is 35 minutes and runs regularly.

From Crofton On Vancouver Island

Ferries run between Crofton and Vesuvius (on the north end of Salt Spring Island). The crossing takes 25 minutes.

From Smaller Gulf Islands

Ferries travel from Pender, Galiano, and Mayne islands arriving at Long Harbour on Salt Spring Island.

Pro Tip: Having a car on Salt Spring Island is the ideal way to enjoy your weekend. With a car, you can enjoy the entire island in a weekend. It takes about 45 minutes to drive from one end of Salt Spring Island to the other. The hilly roads are mostly paved.

Boats in the marina in Ganges on Salt Spring Island.

Todamo / Shutterstock

Stroll Through Ganges

Plan on spending at least a few hours wandering Ganges, the main town on Salt Spring Island. It is the perfect place to browse through unique art galleries and boutiques, to book a whale watching or kayaking tour, and to stock up on groceries and other necessities. Watching the boats in the harbor is a relaxing way to sink into this perfect weekend getaway.

Views from Ruckle Provincial Park on Salt Spring Island.

pr2is / Shutterstock

Explore Ruckle Provincial Park

The shoreline of Ruckle Provincial Park invites you to be present and soak up the incredible natural beauty of this island. Sit on a craggy outcrop and watch the sailboats and ferries pass by on Swanson Channel. Explore tide pools looking for starfish, crabs, and other delights of the sea world. You might have a little luck and spot sea lions and whales. You just never know!

Bring a picnic or pitch a tent on one of the walk-in campsites.

When you first enter the park, you pass by old farmhouses, outbuildings, sheep, and chickens. The park is a preserved British Columbia homestead that was first settled by Henry Ruckle, an Irish immigrant, in 1872. The farmland is still in use by descendants of his family.

Indulge In Tasty Delights At Salt Spring Island Cheese Company

The goal of the Salt Spring Island Cheese Company says it all: “to make the best tasting and looking cheese you will find from one of the most beautiful islands in the world.”

This family-run business creates stunning goat cheeses with exquisite flavors ranging from chilli to tapenade to truffle. Stop into their farm shop and taste the various goat cheeses. Chutneys and crackers are available to purchase in addition to the incredible cheese.

Visit during the summer season and have a meal at the cafe. Be sure to indulge in the outstanding gelato made with the same goat milk as is used in the cheese.

Go Whale Watching

On this perfect weekend on Salt Spring Island, it is a must to get out on the water. Looking for whales and other marine wildlife is always an exciting way to spend part of a day. Salt Spring Adventure Co. Ltd. hosts whale watching and marine wildlife sightseeing tours with morning and afternoon departures from Ganges Harbour between March and October with daily whale sightings expected between June and September.

Kayaking on Salt Spring Island.
Mark Jennings-bates / Shutterstock.com

Kayak The Ocean Waters Of Salt Spring Island

Kayaking is another way to enhance your experience on the waters of Salt Spring Island. Salt Spring Adventure Co. Ltd. offers a variety of tours that leave from Ganges Harbour and are sure to please outdoor enthusiasts of all skill levels, even those who have never paddled before.

A dock on St. Mary Lake in Salt Spring Island.

Muriel Lasure / Shutterstock

Take A Refreshing Dip In A Freshwater Lake

Salt Spring Island is, of course, surrounded by salty water, but it is a delightful summer treat to take a dip in one the five freshwater lakes on the island. Take your pick from St. Mary Lake, Cusheon Lake, Blackburn Lake, Stowell Lake, and Weston Lake. There are public-access points at all the lakes.

Find Unique Gifts At The Ganges Saturday Market

They don’t call Salt Spring Island Canada’s Island of the Arts for nothing! The Saturday market in Ganges (April through October from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.) is bursting with local artisans and food producers. Everything sold at the market is created and produced locally and, as Salt Spring Island is a hotbed for creatives, you will love perusing the stands of potters, jewelers, woodworkers, and a myriad of other artists.

You’ll be sure to find some unique gifts here and some delicious goodies for a weekend picnic.

Where To Eat And Drink

Salt Spring Wild Cider

Salt Spring Wild’s ciders are created with 100 percent local, organic ingredients. Did someone say elderberry elderflower cider or bitter orange rosemary cider? My favorite is the semi-dry cider made from handpicked Salt Spring apples.

Drop by the farm, take a tour, or head straight to the tasting room to sample a variety of ciders along with farm-style tapas. If you’re a cider lover, you won’t walk away empty-handed!

Seafood

Let’s just say that Salt Spring Island is the perfect place to indulge in seafood delights. Take your pick from fresh halibut, mussels, or Dungeness crab, and your taste buds will be singing! Ganges is where you will find the most restaurants to choose from.

Rock Salt Restaurant And Cafe

If you arrive in Fulford Harbour, stop by the Rock Salt Restaurant and Cafe for a coffee and snack or a meal. Their dining room has a 180-degree ocean view, but my preference is to sit at a table on the terrace overlooking the boats and breathe in the fresh salty air. Alternately, as you leave Salt Spring Island and line up for the ferry, pop into the Rock Salt Restaurant and Cafe and pick up some snacks to eat on the ferry.

Stowel Lake Farm’s Organic Farm Stand

When I visited this delightful farm stand on Reynolds Road (very close to the Salt Spring Island Cheese Company), the entire experience was based on the honor system. The roadside gate to the farm stand swung open, we gathered delicious produce, weighed it, and left our money on the counter. Can you step back in time with more authenticity than that?

Salt Spring Mercantile

If you are looking for picnic items or wanting to stock up for your Airbnb, look no further than the Salt Spring Mercantile in Fulford Harbour. It is an old-style general store full of groceries and local, homemade delights.

Sunset views from Salt Spring Island.

Cultura Motion / Shutterstock

Where To Stay On Salt Spring Island

My first tip is to book early. Salt Spring Island is a popular destination, especially in the summer season. Salt Spring Island has a wide variety of accommodation including cabins, guest houses, bed and breakfasts, and hotels. Perhaps you prefer an ocean view or a little cabin in an old-growth forest. Whatever your preference, you should be able to find a little piece of paradise to make this weekend absolutely perfect!

Pro Tip: Salt Spring Island is a blackberry lover’s treasure trove in August. Bring your gloves (the bushes are rather prickly) and overfill your pail with juicy fresh berries.

Enjoy your perfect weekend on Salt Spring Island; you are sure to leave feeling rejuvenated.

Coming from or going to Vancouver? Be sure to see these 11 amazing hidden gems in Vancouver, Canada, before or after your Salt Spring Island weekend.

Thousand Islands Weekend Getaway: Where To Eat, Stay, And Play

Water, fresh air, wonderful dining venues, and fascinating pieces of history can all be found in the Thousand Islands.

The Thousand Islands, sometimes referred to in writing as the 1000 Islands, are the many tiny islands dotting the Saint Lawrence River as it approaches Lake Ontario. The area is also known for the salad dressing. Yes, Thousand Island salad dressing was first created here. More recently, it has become popular for its wineries, breweries, distilleries, and gastropubs.

The fertile agricultural land and humid, moist air create the perfect climate for growing cold hardy grapes and grains used to produce signature craft beverages. Red wines including Frontenac and Marquette, and whites such as Frontenac Gris and La Crescent are produced from these so-called northern grapes.

If you visit in the spring, you can smell the sweet aroma of maple sugar shacks on both sides of the U.S.-Canada border. A fall visit will include savoring cider and fresh-made donuts. Apple orchards are scattered throughout the region offering visitors many choices in autumn.

Foodies, craft beer fans, wine lovers, outdoor adventurists, and history lovers all have lots of reasons to love the Thousand Islands area. Here are my top recommendations based on my time there.

A tour boat in the Thousand Islands.

Michael P. Smith

See All The Tiny Islands Via Boat

Some of the Thousand Islands are just barely big enough for a shed to fit on them; others are large enough for several houses. Some of the houses on the islands are summer homes, but many are year-round residences. The only way to get to many of the islands is via boat.

A great way to see many of the islands is via boat tour. Cruising among the Thousand Islands on a boat is one of the most popular activities visitors enjoy. The tours cruise past dozens of islands, fairytale castles, lighthouses, and wildlife, along with a bit of history. You can find tours from both the American and Canadian sides of the Saint Lawrence. There are also tours that combine seeing the various islands with a visit to Boldt Castle.

The cost of the tours depends on length and what is included. Some tours include lunch or dinner.

Boldt Castle in the Thousand Islands.

Michael P. Smith

Visit Boldt Castle

Boldt Castle is near Alexandria Bay, New York. Millionaire hotel magnate George C. Boldt started building the castle, which is situated on Heart Island, around 1900 as the ultimate romantic gesture and a tribute to his beloved wife, Louise. It was a castle rivaling those of Europe. The six-story, 120-room castle, complete with tunnels, a powerhouse, Italian gardens, a drawbridge, Alster Tower (also known as the Playhouse), and a dovecote was basically a summer home, and the rich and famous visited.

The powerhouse provided all the electricity for the island and everything on it. It stands at the entry of the island.

The powerhouse at Boldt Castle.

Robin O’Neal Smith

They had a butler’s pantry that was bigger than many kitchens in homes today. They held many parties and festivities in the huge dining room with seating for 18.

There was also a large patio where dances and other events were held. They held a huge July 4th celebration every year at the castle. During the gatherings, the men often congregated in the Alster Tower billiard room for gaming, discussing politics, and enjoying cigars.

When I visited, I wondered if perhaps the game of Clue was fashioned after this castle given the library, billiard room, dining room, conservatory, et cetera.

The dining room at Boldt Castle.

Robin O’Neal Smith

Louise Boldt passed away suddenly in 1904 just months before the completion of the castle. Mr. Boldt was heartbroken and immediately stopped all construction on Heart Island. He never returned to Heart Island after her death, and the property was vacant for over 70 years.

Many of the rooms on the upper floors were never finished. When you visit, you can see the construction plans and items were left just as they were when construction stopped.

The castle was at the mercy of the weather for many years as it stood empty. The Thousand Islands Bridge Authority (TIBA) now owns and operates Boldt Castle and the Boldt Yacht House. They use the money from visits to restore and maintain the grounds and the castle.

The grounds are beautiful with fountains and flowers everywhere. Over 20,000 different plants decorate the grounds. Many weddings are held on Heart Island.

Boldt Castle is only accessible by water. Transportation is available from both Canada and the U.S. by personal pleasure craft or boat tour.

Visiting is like taking a step back in time as you see and feel the lavishness and magnificence of a bygone era.

The Shorelines Casino in the Thousand Islands.

Robin O’Neal Smith

Try The Slots At Shorelines Casino

Shorelines Casino is a full-service casino offering patrons slot machines and table games. They often have other entertainment and the casino is home to a wonderful restaurant, The Windward (more on eating here below).

Shorelines Casino has free parking and provides free non-alcoholic beverages to guests on the gaming floors.

You must be 19 years of age to be admitted. You must have proof of identification with you for entry.

Two islands in the Thousand Islands.

Michael P. Smith

Other Reasons To Visit Thousand Islands

Other fun things to do include visiting historic sites, such as the 1000 Islands History Museum, the Thousand Islands Boat Museum, and the Fort Henry National Historic Site.

If you are into outdoor activities, you might enjoy fishing or visiting one of the more than 15 New York State Parks along Lake Ontario and the Saint Lawrence River and on several islands. Thousand Islands National Park is one of the oldest national parks in Canada and is made up of 21 different islands in the Saint Lawrence River and three mainland properties on the 1000 Islands Parkway.

There are also lots of open roads that run along the shorelines for cyclists and motorcycle riders to enjoy.

Enjoy a taste of the rural life on the 1000 Islands Agricultural Tour, which includes stops at more than a dozen farms, wineries, and crop stands.

The Boathouse Country Inn Restaurant in the Thousand Islands.

Robin O’Neal Smith

Eating In The Thousand Islands

There are restaurants in abundance in the area.

Thousand Island salad dressing originated here, and it is served in most restaurants and can be purchased in the gift shop at Boldt Castle. There are two tales of how it originated, but both end with the Thousand Island dressing being served at the famous Boldt Castle to the rich and famous guests, and the rest is history.

A traditional meal in the Thousand Islands includes fresh fish filets served with a garden salad topped with Thousand Island dressing plus salt potatoes and locally grown sweet corn. Dessert is French toast with locally made maple syrup and sometimes cream with a shot of whiskey or a flavored spirit.

It feels like there are almost as many restaurants as there are islands in the area. Below are our favorites.

Windward Restaurant

The Windward Restaurant at Shorelines Casino has an excellent selection of delicious casual fare. I admit I agreed to eat here because I thought it would be convenient, since we were at the casino for the evening. I thought my meal would be ho-hum. Boy was I surprised! I had the grilled Atlantic salmon served with a beurre blanc sauce. It was fantastic. There were five of us, and we were all impressed with our meals.

They have dining specials each evening, and you can eat at the restaurant without gambling.

The Boathouse Country Inn Restaurant

You will find historic charm at the Boathouse Restaurant and riverside patio (seasonal). A casual family restaurant on the water, you can enjoy a meal or a glass of wine as you watch the tour boats come and go. They also have docking facilities for visitors.

The Boathouse is where we boarded our Thousand Island cruise and Boldt Castle tour. It is a very convenient place for lunch or dinner after your cruise.

The Thousand Islands.
Russ Heinl / Shutterstock.com

Places To Stay In The Thousand Islands

We found the ideal place to stay for our visit was in Gananoque, Ontario, Canada. We were close to all the things we wanted to see and do and there were several places to stay.

Holiday Inn Express Hotel And Suites Gananoque

This is where we stayed when we visited the Thousand Islands. The hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the Thousand Islands and the location was perfect. It’s the only hotel in Gananoque and the Canadian Thousand Islands area with an elevator, interior corridors, an indoor heated pool, and fitness and business centers.

It is open year-round and has some pet-friendly rooms. We found it to be immaculate, and the front desk attendants were helpful.

The Woodview Inn

This boutique hotel, also in Gananoque, has both rooms and suites, many with fireplaces. Newly renovated, it is a 10-minute walk to downtown. The hotel is open year-round and provides a healthy breakfast every morning.

Four Points By Sheraton

This hotel is in neighboring Kingston, Ontario. Each room offers picturesque views of Kingston or Lake Ontario. Located just steps from many historic sites, it has a restaurant onsite and a pool, sauna, and fitness center. The Four Points is open year-round and they have pet-friendly rooms.

The Thousand Islands is a fun and friendly destination with something for everyone. A weekend won’t be enough, and I promise you will want to visit again.

Pro Travel Tips

  • Plan to spend at least several hours at the Boldt Castle. There is much to see inside and on the grounds.
  • Wear sturdy walking shoes since some of the ground is uneven.
  • If you are allergic to flowers, take your allergy medicine. There are flowers everywhere.
  • If taking a boat tour, you may need a jacket even in summer.

Coming from or going to Ottawa? Here are the best things to see and do.

6 Amazing Things To Do In Beautiful Pismo Beach, California—Plus Where To Eat And Stay

Located on the Central Coast of California, about 3 hours north of Los Angeles, Pismo Beach is a small, laid-back town that offers visitors the chance to get outdoors, relax, and enjoy some seriously good seafood. Several miles of coast beckon to you to stroll on the sand, watch surfers ride the waves, and catch a sunset from the pier. Don’t expect a packed itinerary; instead, look forward to a peaceful weekend away along the Pacific Ocean.

Things To Do In Pismo Beach

While Pismo Beach is definitely a relaxing destination, that doesn’t mean there isn’t much to do. On the contrary, this small town is loaded with options, especially for outdoor lovers. A few activities require advance planning, but most can be done whenever you are ready.

The Pismo Preserve in California.

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1. Pismo Preserve

The Pismo Preserve was opened to the public for the first time in January of 2020. For a scenic hike or bike ride, this is the place to be. The 900-acre conservancy offers 11 miles of trails that wind through woodlands and bluffs, providing excellent views of the Pacific Ocean. A variety of wildlife can be found in the preserve, including deer, fox, bobcats, and mountain lions.

2. Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove

The Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove is one of only five sites in the state that has counts of more than 10,000 butterflies annually. From late October through February, the butterflies cluster in the limbs of towering eucalyptus trees.

Wander through the grove on your own or take advantage of a docent talk to learn more about these colorful creatures. Telescopes are available to help visitors get a better view.

The butterfly grove is located off of Highway 1 at the southern end of Pismo Beach. Since the butterfly counts vary greatly each year, it’s suggested that visitors check out the website prior to planning a trip.

The Pismo Pier in California.

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3. Pismo Pier

The 1,370-foot-long wooden pier is probably the most famous landmark in Pismo Beach. It’s a great place to stroll to appreciate views of the ocean and beach or to see what the local fishermen are catching. There’s a snack shop at the end of the pier if you get hungry. If you’re here for a romantic weekend getaway, then head to the pier to catch a sunset.

4. Pismo State Beach

With 17 miles of beach, Pismo State Beach is the ideal destination if you’re wanting to swim, surf, sunbathe, or just stroll the sand. If you’re looking for something a bit more unusual, try your hand at clamming — just be sure to get a permit first.

Pismo State Beach is one of only a few public beaches in the state of California that allow guests to drive their cars on the sand. This is only permitted in certain areas, so be sure to check the local signage.

A sea cave near Pismo Beach.

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5. Kayak Through The Sea Caves

Adventure seekers can schedule a tour of the sea caves located along the Pismo Beach coast. Most of the sea caves in this area are only accessible by water, making them some of the lesser-known attractions in town.

Central Coast Kayaks describes its 3-hour cave excursion as exhilarating and at times strenuous. But you’ll be rewarded with views of kelp forests, grottoes, and marine life.

If you’re already an experienced kayaker, check out the rentals available at Pismo Beach Surf Shop or Pismo Beach Dive Shop.

6. Tide Pooling

Formed in depressions along the shoreline of rocky coasts, tide pools are filled with seawater that gets trapped as the tide recedes. Often they are packed with sea life like barnacles, mussels, anemones, urchins, sea stars, crustaceans, and small fish. There are dozens of spots along Pismo Beach’s coast where you can enjoy these tide pools.

Eldwayen Ocean Park is a nice place to see tide pools. Look for a wooden set of stairs at the north end of the park — it leads to the beach and the tide pools. Margo Dodd Park is another option if you’d like to see both tide pools and sea caves. Spyglass Park offers tide pools that are a bit more remote, but definitely worth the trip. Follow the trail down to the beach and then climb over the rocks to the small sandy beach.

Before venturing out to the tide pools, be sure the tide is out and that you can safely return before the tide comes in.

Restaurants and bars at Prismo Beach.
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Best Restaurants In Pismo Beach

If you love seafood, then Pismo Beach is the place for you. And if you specifically enjoy clams, you’ll be happy you made the trip. At one time, the city was known as the Clam Capital of the World. This may be a small town, but it’s loaded with great restaurants at all price points to make your weekend getaway perfect. Here are some of the best.

Oyster Loft

If you’re looking for a fine-dining experience with an excellent view, head to Oyster Loft. Many locals consider this their go-to restaurant for special occasions. The must-have items here are, of course, the oysters, but you can’t go wrong with any of the seafood entrees.

Cracked Crab

The Cracked Crab takes pride in serving locally caught fish and seafood as well as produce sourced from the region’s farms. The decor is casual and well suited to a dining experience that can be messy. There’s nothing like digging into a platter of crab legs!

Splash Cafe

Clam chowder aficionados should head to Splash Cafe. One of the oldest restaurants in Pismo Beach, this place proudly serves more than 30,000 gallons of chowder each year. For an extra treat, order it in a house-baked sourdough bread bowl! Be prepared for a wait, since this is one of the most popular restaurants in town.

Pismo Fish And Chips

Family-owned Pismo Fish and Chips has been around since 1963. And as its name implies, the fish and chips are the main event. In fact, many locals say they are the best you’ll ever taste. Be sure to try the excellent clam chowder as well.

Best Hotels In Pismo Beach

This popular seaside destination does not lack for nice hotels and inns. While there are chain hotels in the area, many of the independently owned hotels offer scenic locations, well-appointed rooms, and friendly service.

Here are some of my favorite places to stay in the area.

SeaCrest Oceanfront Hotel

Sitting high on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the SeaCrest Oceanfront Hotel is an ideal home base from which to explore Pismo Beach. Enjoy the view from the terrace or head down the stairs to the beach. For a romantic weekend, splurge on a room with a balcony and an ocean view. Amenities include a continental breakfast, a pool, a hot tub, and an on-site restaurant.

Inn At The Cove

Located on a secluded cove, the Inn at the Cove provides guests with ocean views from every room. And if you’re hoping to travel with your pet, this hotel is happy to help. Amenities include a continental breakfast, pool, and electric car charging station.

Cottage Inn By The Sea

Inspired by the English countryside, the Cottage Inn by the Sea has a lovely oceanfront location where it’s hard to escape views of the water. Choose from a garden or ocean-view room; all rooms have fireplaces. Amenities include a continental breakfast, a pool, and luxury toiletries.

If You’ve Got More Time

There’s plenty to do in Pismo Beach over the course of a weekend, but if you have more time, consider venturing out a bit farther.

Just 30 minutes outside of Pismo are three historic winemaking regions: Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande, and Avila Valley. Dozens of wineries throughout the area offer tasting rooms and tours. Or head an hour north to visit the spectacular Hearst Castle, built by the publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst.

Pismo Beach can be both a destination in and of itself and a base from which to explore more of California’s rugged Central Coast.

5 Superb Pastry Chefs And Chocolatiers In Paris

Extravagant French pastries and chocolates have always been a big draw for those visiting Paris. Eclairs, macarons, chocolate mousse, mille-feuilles, and creme brulee are just a short list of the decadent offerings that are featured in patisseries that dot almost every corner of Paris. In the past decade, a new crop of pastry makers and chocolatiers have elevated their craft to a whole new level, transforming their creations to the level of art. Many have become culinary superstars with tens of thousands of social media followers, sold-out personal appearances, media exposure, and lines out the doors at their shops.

Before I moved to Paris and became a travel writer and tour guide, I was a New York City-based baker and chocolate maker. My specialty as a chocolate maker was my own truffle recipe that used Belgian dark chocolate, and I had a small shop in midtown New York for four years. At the same time, I was also baking coconut macaroons for gourmet shop Dean and DeLuca.

Instead of making chocolates and pastries, these days, I lead pastry and chocolate tours in Paris. The selection below reflects what I consider to be the best pastry and chocolate shops, and many of them are stops on my tour, during which we do tastings.

Inside of one of the Pierre Herme locations in Paris.

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1. Pierre Herme

Easily one of the best and most well-known patissiers in Paris and throughout France, Pierre Herme is at the top of his game. Herme has been the darling of critics and food awards since his start in 1998, becoming the youngest pastry chef ever to win France’s Pastry Chef of the Year, followed by World’s Best Pastry Chef in 2016 from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Vogue has called him the Picasso of Pastry. So far, the biggest honor Herme has received is being bestowed the Legion of Honor award, the highest award for military and civil merits in France, established by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802.

Customers swarm over a dozen of Herme’s Paris-based freestanding and department shops for his most popular pastry, his unbeatable macarons. Although Herme produces favorites such as chocolate, raspberry, vanilla, and coffee, what sets him apart is the eclectic pairing of odd and familiar flavors.

Different flavors of macarons from Pierre Herme.

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His best-selling flavors are Ispahan, which has notes of rose, lychee, and raspberry, and Mogador, a passion fruit macaron with a milk chocolate filling. Every season, similar to Paris fashion collections, Herme invents four new flavors only available for a limited time. Fashionable Parisians wouldn’t be caught dead eating last season’s macarons.

In summertime, Pierre Herme sells ice creams and refreshing sorbets that are also available in ice cream sandwich form. Flaky pastry layers are filled with salted butter caramel ice cream, lime, basil, and Mandarin sorbet, or a pistachio and strawberry scented ice cream.

Patrick Roger's pastry shop in Paris.

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2. Patrick Roger

Sometimes called the bad boy of chocolate in the inner circles of the Parisian food scene, Patrick Roger is truly unique in his field. Why? Because not only is he one of the finest and most inventive chocolatiers in the city, he is also a serious sculptor, creating works in bronze, wood, and metal.

After apprenticing for two recognized pastry and chocolate makers, Roger began making his distinct chocolates in a suburban village outside of Paris. More like a mad scientist in a lab concocting yet undiscovered flavors and textures than a conventional chocolatier, Roger made a name for himself, and in 2001, he opened his first Paris boutique in the Saint Germain area. He specializes in dark chocolate, and some of his most beautiful and delicious creations are his colorful spheres, which look like marbles and are filled with ganache of either lime and caramel, salted butter caramel, or yuzu fruit and lemongrass.

Chocolate by Patrick Roger.

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Roger combines his two passions, chocolate making and sculpting, by designing whimsical sculptures made of chocolate for his shop windows. A series of hens and their hen houses, life size recreations of apes and orangutans, and a true replica of Rodin’s The Thinker, commissioned by the Rodin estate, are just a few examples of his grand imagination.

Although the brand has a uniform packaging color of aqua blue, each boutique has a unique design, and they don’t look like most chocolate shops. Roger’s boutique on Place Madeleine feels like a huge organ, with metal pipes enveloping the interior, and his Marais shop resembles an art gallery with hanging stained-glass panels and an enormous glass table with metal tentacles. The Madeleine location also has a sculpture gallery on the mezzanine level.

3. Hugo And Victor

Hugues Pouget was so inspired by his favorite French author and poet, Victor Hugo, that he named his pastry and chocolate shop after him. Hugo And Victor is the realization of a lifelong dream of Pouget’s to have his own shop.

He put up his proverbial signpost on the Left Bank in the affluent 7th arrondissement, close to the chic Le Bon Marche department store. The decor of the shop matches the upscale clientele with glass jewel cases that would normally display pearls and diamonds but instead show off the gorgeous pastries and cakes. Flavors are seasonal, and four times a year Pouget selects a particular ingredient or flavor and designs his cakes and tarts around it. Past flavors have been grapefruit, yuzu, and vanilla. His version of chocolate spheres are metallic on the outside and contain ganache with pear, mandarin, and passion fruit, cleverly packaged in a book with an elastic band.

Pouget also likes to collaborate with celebrities and designers and in the past has teamed up with actress Catherine Deneuve.

Holiday time is special at Hugo and Victor; every year Pouget soars to new heights of creativity, turning out amazing versions of Buche de Noels (Yule logs) for Christmas, chocolate eggs for Easter, and, for the New Year, a special king cake.

4. Un Dimanche A Paris

Pierre Cluizel, whose father was the founder of Michel Cluizel, one of the most well-known, high-quality chocolate companies in France, faithfully worked in his father’s business for 25 years. He sold his shares and left the company in 2009 to pursue his own chocolate and pastry dream shop. In 2011 he opened up Un Dimanche a Paris, a two-story, multi-purpose shop, restaurant, and cooking workshop, in an 1735 Paris passageway.

Chocolate is the star of the show at Un Dimanche a Paris (whose name translates to A Sunday In Paris) and shows up in all aspects of the enterprise, including the participation of Chef Jerome Sarlat, who inserts chocolate into many savory dishes at the haute cuisine restaurant and serves a killer, specially blended hot chocolate served in an exclusively designed white porcelain pot. You’ll also find intensely flavored dark chocolates in the retail shop.

The posh dining room, which also doubles as a tea salon during off hours, is on the first level, connected to the spacious retail shop. In between is the open, glassed-in pastry kitchen, where you can press your nose against the glass and salivate while watching the young pastry makers whip heavy cream, melt chocolate, and effortlessly pipe out pastries.

Upstairs, pastry- and chocolate-making workshops are offered in the evening from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Pierre Marcolini chocolatier.

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5. Pierre Marcolini

Pierre Marcolini is one of the handful of chocolatiers to use the bean-to-bar process, which means he sources his own cacao beans from plantations around the globe, imports them to his factory in Belgium, roasts and processes the beans, and finally, puts the finished product into his luxurious chocolates.

Marcolini’s expansive selection of chocolate tablets best show off his globetrotting to find the finest chocolate, with flavors from Madagascar, Venezuela, Cameroon, Cuba, and Ecuador.

Their signature chocolate is a red glazed heart, filled with raspberry ganache, lemon zest, and dark and white chocolate. Truffles, chocolate-covered orange and lemon rind, pralines, marshmallows covered in dark chocolate, and cocoa-dusted almonds round out the chocolate collection. Pierre Marcolini expands beyond chocolate, also selling macarons, glazed pound cakes, sugar-glazed chestnuts, a popular French delicacy, financiers, and a line of jams and preserves. Ice cream and sorbet pops in sophisticated flavors such as mango, coconut, and yuzu are hand-dipped in either white chocolate, dark praline chocolate, or milk chocolate with nuts.

Chocolates from Pierre Marcolini.

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Packaging is just as important as the quality of the chocolate at Pierre Marcolini, and collaborations with artists, designers, and celebrities have proven to be fruitful. Past collaborations include a line of chocolate hearts designed with Victoria Beckham, a chocolate bento box with Japanese fashion company Maison Kitsune, and mini chocolate lips by fashion designer Olympia Le-Tan.

Pierre Marcolini has a commitment to sustainability and fair employment practices with all of his suppliers. He will not use child laborers, only uses natural herbicides on the beans, bans known carcinogens, and does not source genetically modified cocoa beans.

After more great Paris eats? Read up on the best bouillons: a revival of classic Paris dining.

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