Beautiful Bilbao, Spain: Where To Eat, Stay, And Play

Located near France in the Western Pyrenees, Bilbao is the largest city of the Basque Country, an autonomous community in Northern Spain. Fiercely proud of their heritage, Basque people have their own traditions, culture, and even language, which are quite distinct from those of the rest of Spain.

Lying on the Nervion River a mere 7 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, Bilbao has a long history as a trading port and is largely an industrial city. While that may sound off-putting, it shouldn’t be. The city has a stunning Old Town, the Casco Viejo; amazing historic and contemporary architecture; fabulous food and drink; plenty of culture and art; and some rather good shopping, too.

Bilbao hit the tourist radar after the Guggenheim Bilbao was built by the river, and while the museum and its art are superb, Bilbao has so much more to offer than the Guggenheim.

Easily explored on foot, Bilbao is worth a visit, and you can spend a few days exploring, soaking up the atmosphere, and enjoying the beaches.

Views of Bilbao, Spain, from Mount Artxanda. — Pilar Andreu Rovira / Shutterstock

What To Do In Bilbao

Climb Mount Artxanda

When you arrive in a new city, it is always a good idea to climb to the highest viewpoint to get your bearings.

From the top of Mount Artxanda, you can truly appreciate Bilbao’s location nestled in the mountains and straddling the river. You can ascend by bright red funicular, and then leisurely meander down the hill with the city in front of you. Don’t forget to pose in front of the large Bilbao sign.

Pro Tip: Purchase a Bilbao Bizkaia Card for 24 hours up to 3 days, and you can use the funicular as part of the public transportation system.

Visit The Guggenheim Bilbao

Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Bilbao put Bilbao on the tourist map. The large silver building was inaugurated in October of 1997, and immediately visitors started to pour into the city.

Without even going into the world-class temporary exhibits, you can see the floral Puppy by Jeff Koons and the gigantic arachnid Maman by Louise Bourgeois outside. Once inside, you’ll see the stunning metal installation by Richard Serra. Take in the current exhibits as well, and you could easily spend up to a day in and around the museum.

Pro Tip: For the best pictures, go up to the bridge and across the river at night. The reflections are incredible.

The streets of Bilbao's Old Town, Casco Viejo. — Roel Slootweg / Shutterstock

Explore The Casco Viejo

The Old Town of Bilbao, Casco Viejo, is a maze of tiny lanes, steep hills, arcades, plazas, shops, and cafes. Some of its best sights include the numerous lovely churches, most notably the Catedral de Santiago, part of the northern route of the Camino de Santiago; the Euskal Museum, which offers archaeological insights into the region; and the Teatro Arriaga, which is stunning day and night.

Pro Tip: Make use of the various elevators around Casco Viejo to get up the hills and enjoy the views across the higgledy-piggledy rooftops of the Old Town.

Appreciate The Art At The Museo De Bellas Artes De Bilbao

The Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao is one of the country’s best museums outside of Madrid. The museum houses an extensive collection of Basque, Spanish, and European art, including masterpieces by El Greco, Goya, van Dyck, Cezanne, Gaugin, Francis Bacon, and Richard Serra. You could easily spend a morning at this lovely museum and its garden.

Pro Tip: Plan your visit around breakfast or lunchtime, since the little museum cafe is superb.

Ships at the Bilbao Maritime Museum. — ksl / Shutterstock

Learn About The Area’s Trading History At The Bilbao Maritime Museum

The Bilbao Maritime Museum, located in the city’s old shipyard, tells of Bilbao’s history as a seafaring and trading center. Interesting inside and out, the space is dotted with exhibits along the riverside outside the main building. You can learn about the Bilbao of the Middles Ages and of the Industrial Revolution and marvel at all sorts of seafaring vessels.

The museum is a treat for the whole family and a nice walk from Casco Viejo along the river. Allow at least 2 or 3 hours to explore the area.

Pro Tip: Keep an eye out for the fun street art.

Walk Across The Bizkaia Bridge

Even if you are not an engineer or bridge aficionado, this one is worth hopping on the metro for. Dating back to 1893 and built by a Gustave Eiffel disciple, the Bizkaia Bridge is the world’s oldest transporter bridge and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is unusual in that it has a beam at the top that you can reach by lift and walk across, and suspended from it is a gondola, essentially a piece of road, which moves along carrying cars from one side to the other. In addition to being an engineering marvel, it offers great views across the river toward the estuary.

Pro Tip: Sit on the left of the metro carriage on the way out and on the right on the way back for the best views

The Nervion River in Bilbao, Spain. — Martyn Jandula / Shutterstock

Stroll The Banks Of The Nervion River

One of the loveliest things to enjoy in Bilbao is a simple walk along the river. Start at the Abando Train Station just opposite Casco Viejo. The old train station is in a lovely building with a superb stained glass window inside. Walk down the riverbank, passing the town hall, enjoying the reflections of the colorful house facades along the side, and note the mix of historic and hypermodern architecture. You’ll walk under — and maybe across — the interesting Zubizuri Bridge, past the Guggenheim, and through parkland to the Maritime Museum. Then return through the town past the Bullfighting Museum and back through the shopping area and Plaza Moyua for a perfect circuit.

Food from Bocadero in Bilbao, Spain. — Bocadero

Where To Eat In Bilbao

Food is an institution in Bilbao. If you only try two things, make them seafood and pintxos. Pintxos are the Basque equivalent of Spanish tapas; they come on small plates and are always accompanied by a good glass of red wine. There is nothing better than a pintxos crawl along Plaza Barria, the old enclosed plaza in Casco Viejo, eating your way through the pintxos restaurants lining the square.

Zaharra

Zaharra is my personal favorite of the Plaza Barria pintxos restaurants; it’s tiny and cozy. You sit along a small bar and just point to the delicious little morsels in front of you. The staff is friendly, the wine good, and the pintxos are to die for.

Bocadero

Bocadero is a great space just behind the main drag. This restaurant’s decor is just as pleasing as the food. From salads, pasta, and rice dishes to fresh fish, meat, and even pizza, there is something for everybody, and everything I tried, I would order again. And if you are even vaguely interested in interior design, you’ll love the bathrooms!

Churros

Just opposite the theater, on the other side of the bridge next to the bus stops, is a churro stand. Churros are essentially long donuts sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon and often served with dipping chocolate — really bad for you, but so good. Grab a bag of them to nibble on while you walk along the river. You won’t regret it.

If you’d rather sit down, find the Cafeteria de Arenal, which also offers excellent churros.

A street with shops in Old Town Bilbao, Spain. — ksl / Shutterstock

Where To Shop In Bilbao

Bilbao has some seriously good shopping. The Casco Viejo boasts smaller, quirkier boutiques; the grand avenue of Via de Don Diego Lopez de Haro is home to chains such as Zara and the old department store El Corte Ingles Gran Via; and the Plaza Moyua has all the luxury stores. Plenty of pedestrianized streets lead off of the main drag and off of Plaza Moyua.

For something a little different, there are the markets. The flower market takes over the area around Arenal Park every Sunday morning, and in the same location you’ll find an organic local produce market between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.

If you like markets, the Mercado de la Ribera is a must-see, not just for the fresh produce on sale over three floors, but also for the art deco building dating to 1930. Right by the side of the river nearby, you’ll find plenty of smaller stores and cafes below an arcade.

Where To Stay In Bilbao

Petit Palace Arana

The Petit Palace Arana is a small hotel on the edge of Casco Viejo. It’s by the river, next to the theater, and within walking distance of all the sights, restaurants, and shopping mentioned here. You can get a room for a reasonable price, too.

Penthouse With Cathedral Views

This is one of the nicest apartments I have ever stayed in — a fabulous open space full of art and great views of the Old Town. It’s located right in Casco Viejo, but it is not noisy. The only downside is that there is no elevator.

Hotel Carlton

For a grander luxury option, consider the elegant Hotel Carlton, a Second Empire-style hotel on Plaza Moyua. It would not look out of place in Paris, and it’s right in the middle of the best shopping area.

Colorado Road Trip: Denver To Grand Junction

Colorado is at the heart of the incredible Rocky Mountains, and nature lovers from around the world flock here to take in the stunning mountain vistas and enjoy outdoor activities. One of our favorite road trips of all time runs from Denver to Grand Junction straight through the Continental Divide near the Utah border.

While you could make the trip in 4 hours on the interstate, we recommend going off the beaten path to take in some truly majestic mountain views and experience a few charming mining towns along the way. It’s a gorgeous trip no matter the time of year — and a great way to make memories.

Here are some great stops to make when driving from Denver to Grand Junction.

Denver

Denver, Colorado’s bustling capital city, is also the state’s largest city. While there are the terrific museums, sights, and amenities one would expect from a city of its size, we love to spend our time close to the city center, since it’s jam-packed with activities and is quite walkable.

Stroll the 16th Street Mall, a pedestrian-only stretch of shops, galleries, and boutiques. Spend some time at the Colorado State Capitol, and marvel at the building’s gilded dome, a nod to the state’s Gold Rush past. And don’t forget a stop at the Denver Art Museum on the outskirts of the Capitol Hill neighborhood, which features more than 70,000 works of art.

Pro Tip: Plan to stay at the Brown Palace; the historic spot located in the heart of downtown offers beautiful accommodations and serves up an epic and decadent high tea. For a dinner splurge, Mizuna is a true French treat with its tiny dining room and incredible ambience.

Idaho Springs

As you head out on Interstate 70, be sure to make a lunch stop in Idaho Springs, Colorado, about 30 miles west of Denver. The small town was founded by gold prospectors in 1859. Today, the town’s Miner Street is home to charming shops and cute cafes, including the legendary Beau Jo’s Pizza. Forget about counting calories or carbs here — these mountain pies are deep-dish and feel like they’re mile-high! Be sure to save your crusts; you can dip them in honey for dessert.

Frisco

Continuing west, you’ll come to the town of Frisco, close to some of Colorado’s most famous ski resorts. While it makes a terrific home base for winter sports fanatics ready to hit the slopes, there’s much more to the area. Main Street has a great collection of shops and eateries, and on the eastern end, there’s the Frisco Bay Marina, the entrance to the Dillon Reservoir. It’s a great place to burn some calories with a quick paddleboat or kayak trip — or simply kick back with a waterfront meal (weather permitting, of course!).

Leadville

From Copper Mountain, take Colorado State Highway 91 south for a stop in Leadville, Colorado. This town was founded by prospectors who hoped to make fortunes mining gold, silver, or even lead. Leadville was a place where the West was truly wild, and where Doc Holliday and the Unsinkable Molly Brown had roots. Today, Leadville’s city center is a National Historic District with 70 square blocks of Victorian architecture crammed with tall tales and legends. Consider a walking tour to really take it all in.

Outdoor adventures also abound, with great biking and hiking options in and around town, including the gorgeous glacial Twin Lakes and San Isabel National Forest.

Pro Tip: Leadville makes a great overnight stop; the Delaware Hotel is like a step back in time. While not over-the-top luxe, it is comfortable and loaded with history.

Downtown Aspe, Colorado. — Oscity / Shutterstock

Aspen

From Leadville, a jog west on State Highway 82 will eventually land you in one of the country’s poshest winter wonderlands. We’re talking about Aspen, where celebrities go to ski, shop, and be seen during the winter months.

No matter the time you visit, there will always be something to see and do. Hike nearby Maroon Bells or the trails if you want to get in some cardio. Check out any number of Aspen’s cultural offerings, including its renowned art museum or music festival. For your Gucci or Burberry fix, shop Aspen’s high-end boutiques in the city center, or if the mountain air has you feeling dried out, consider a trip to the spa. The Auberge in Hotel Jerome is a favorite of locals and visitors alike.

Pro Tip: For a splurge, consider a stay at the spot where the stars often flock: The Little Nell. And for fine dining with a laid-back, mountain feel, Jimmy’s is a great choice.

Glenwood Springs

Take State Highway 82 another 40 miles out of Aspen, and you’ll rejoin Interstate 70 at Glenwood Springs, Colorado. You’ll want to make time to explore this town, made famous by its restorative mineral hot springs. If you’ve got the time, consider a dip! There are three hot springs in town. You can’t go wrong checking out the original at the Glenwood Hot Springs Resort, home to the world’s largest hot springs pool. It has been welcoming visitors since 1888, and you can take a soak, schedule a spa treatment, and even stay the night at the historic lodge.

Like most of the mountain mining towns on this road trip, Glenwood Springs has a terrific downtown with great shopping and dining options. For a delicious, no-fuss meal, get to Slope & Hatch, where you’ll find some of the best tacos anywhere. The hot dogs are also tops!

Rifle

Heading west on Interstate 70 from Glenwood Springs, you’ll notice a shift in the landscape. Instead of high country, you’re now in the mesas, where the land has historically been used for ranching. It’s also here where the town names start to get pretty interesting.

Take Rifle, Colorado, for instance. Legend has it that the town was named after a rancher set his weapon along a creek in the area, which is now quite popular with rock climbers and adventurers. Rifle Mountain Park has 250 climbing routes, most catering to the sport’s elite. Rifle Falls, with its limestone caves and triple waterfall, is a terrific place to explore and enjoy a picnic. The Rifle Heritage Center is also worth a stop to learn more about what life was like in this part of Colorado way back when.

Continue west on Interstate 70; you’ll pass the small town of Parachute, Colorado, which means you’re getting close to your final destination on this epic mountain road trip.

Grand Junction

The final stop on this road trip is located in the heart of the Grand Valley at the junction of the Garrison and Colorado Rivers. Grand Junction, Colorado, founded in 1881, has always been bustling, once serving as a commerce center due to its railroads. It’s still an agricultural crossroads and the center of Colorado’s thriving wine country.

Downtown Grand Junction is tree-lined, charming, walkable, and packed with fun shops and cafes. The recently renovated Avalon Theatre hosts a wide variety of fine arts performances and concerts, while the Museum of the West tells the story of all the people who shaped this area — including Native American tribes, Spanish colonists, and later pioneers, cattle ranchers, and cowboys.

Hiking, biking, and rafting are all popular activities in the area, and the nearby Colorado National Monument, with its epic sandstone formations and sweeping vistas, is absolutely worth a visit.

Pro Tip: Grand Junction is big enough to offer travelers a wide range of accommodations, but the Wine Country Inn in nearby Palisade, Colorado, stands out. The Victorian-style hotel is set in the middle of a 21-acre vineyard and is adjacent to two wineries.

What To Know Before You Go

Remember, you are traveling at altitude — and in some spots, high altitude. Be judicious with your alcohol consumption, guzzle water, and keep Advil on hand should you start to feel ill or get a headache.

Also, don’t forget to stop along the way, even outside of the suggestions here, to take in the majestic scenery. Of course, you’ll want to get lots of photos, but make sure you stay safe when snapping those selfies.

9 Must-Visit Craft Breweries In Portland, Oregon

Portland, Oregon, is the epicenter of craft beer, and that becomes obvious to visitors as soon as they arrive. From the dozens of brewpubs around the city to the wide range of beers sold in every bar and restaurant, this city knows how to brew really good beer.

The only difficulty is deciding where to start. There are 58 breweries in the city, so visitors can easily become overwhelmed by the options. But with some help from locals, we’ve developed a list of nine that are definitely worth a visit.

1. Ecliptic Brewing

When you combine astronomy with beer, you get Ecliptic Brewing. Every six weeks, this brewery’s menu changes to highlight seasonal and local ingredients, and many of the beers have names related to the solar system. Ecliptic’s founder, John Harris, had a long career in the brewing industry working for well-respected companies like McMenamins before finally launching his own brewery and brewpub.

Many guests recommend the Starburst IPA, which is available all year round. And if you’re a lover of sour beers, there are always a few varieties available. If you’re hungry, be sure to order one of the highly rated burgers.

Located on Mississippi Avenue, Ecliptic has a large outdoor patio, making it a great place to hang out with friends on a weekend afternoon or evening. The neighborhood offers a nice selection of restaurants and shops, so consider exploring before or after enjoying a beer.

2. Hair Of The Dog Brewing Company

Brewers Alan Sprints and Denver Bon operate Hair of the Dog Brewing Company, which specializes in new and unusual beers. Many of their beers are bottle-conditioned or refermented in the bottle, resulting in beers that improve with age. Hair of the Dog also experiments with barrel-aging beer, sometimes in barrels previously used for spirits.

If you enjoy dark beers, definitely try the Adam, a rich brew with notes of chocolate. IPA lovers will like the Blue Dot, a double IPA. And if beer isn’t your thing, try one of the ciders or barley wines. Just proceed with caution, since most of the beers have a higher alcohol content.

Hair of the Dog can be found in Portland’s Southeast Industrial neighborhood and has a full menu featuring a wide variety of sandwiches and snacks. Meat lovers will appreciate the brisket, which locals say is excellent.

3. Base Camp Brewing Company

Outdoor-themed Base Camp Brewing Company is well known for its ales and lagers. Founders Ross Putnam and Justin Fay grew up together in Oregon and wanted their taproom to reflect their love of adventure and nature. As a result, you’ll find tables made of large wooden slabs, a canoe hanging over the bar, and carabiners used as tap handles.

Locals recommend the Send It IPA, which features hops grown in Oregon. But if this is your first time visiting, definitely order the S’more Stout. This rich, dark beer has the subtle taste of chocolate and is served with a toasted marshmallow.

Located in Portland’s Buckman neighborhood, Base Camp does not serve food, but there is at least one food truck on the premises every day. Food truck options may include Sherpa Kitchen, which serves Nepalese food, or Poblano Pepper, which offers Mexican food.

4. Sasquatch Brewing

If there are both beer lovers and cider drinkers in your party, then Sasquatch Brewing is the ideal destination. Founder Tom Sims and head brewer Mike Paladino are committed to using local ingredients in both their beverages and food, as well as giving back to the community.

Sasquatch offers a nice range of beverages, including sours, Belgian ales, IPAs, ciders, and even locally made wine. Regulars love the Woodboy IPA and Hairy Knuckle Stout.

There are two options for sampling these beers — Hillsdale Brewpub and Northwest Brewery & Taproom, each named for the neighborhood in which they are located. The first serves classic comfort food like mac and cheese and chili, while the second offers sandwiches.

5. Gigantic Brewing Company

At Gigantic Brewing Company, not only is the beer unique, but so are the labels on the bottles. For each new release, Gigantic commissions an artist to design the label and a corresponding commemorative poster. This unique idea was conceived by owners and brewers Van Havig and Ben Love.

This is definitely the place for IPA lovers. Be sure to try the Gigantic and Ginormous Imperial IPAs, which are always available, or the highly rated, seasonal Cloudberry IPA. Craft beer aficionados love the Hellboy Beer, created to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the publication of the popular comic book series Hellboy: Seed of Destruction.

Gigantic Brewing can be found near Reed College in the Eastmoreland neighborhood. Currently, food is not served, but guests are welcome to bring a picnic or purchase food from the nearby food carts.

6. Zoiglhaus Brewing Company

If you’re looking for German-style beer, look no further than Zoiglhaus Brewing Company. Many of its beers are brewed with malts and hops imported from Germany. Head brewer Alan Taylor brings to Portland years of experience living, drinking, and brewing in Germany.

You’ll typically find 10 beers on tap at Zoiglhaus, and if you’re not sure where to start, try the pilsner for a typical German experience. Or if you want something more adventurous, order the award-winning dark beer, the D’light Schwarzbier.

Zoiglhaus is located in the Lents neighborhood of Portland. Classic pub food is served along with a few German specialties. This is an ideal spot for families, since it offers a large play area for kids.

7. Cascade Brewing

Sour beers were created in Portland, and Cascade Brewing is probably the best place in the nation to sample a wide variety of them. Owner Art Larrance and brewmaster Ron Gansberg were tired of hoppy beers and wanted to create sour ales using local fruit. Over the past two decades, Cascade has expanded to include a restaurant, a tasting room, and a blending house and production facility, making the company one of the most recognized names in the world of sour beers.

If you’ve never tried a sour beer before, then this is a great opportunity to ask the bartender or server to assist you. The range of sourness will vary, as the types of fruit used in these ales include pears, peaches, raspberries, grapes, and more. But if sour isn’t for you, don’t worry — there are IPAs available as well as cider and wine.

If you’re looking for a sit-down restaurant to enjoy a full meal with your beer, then head to The Lodge at Cascade Brewing in Southwest Portland. Or, for a more intimate experience, visit Cascade Brewing Barrel House on the east side of the city.

8. Ex Novo Brewing Co.

Ex Novo Brewing Co. set out to brew great beer and donate 100 percent of its profits to local and international charitable organizations. Founder and owner Joel Gregory started out as a home brewer, but then decided to expand operations to a retail setting. Today he operates three brewpubs, two of which are in the Portland area.

Ex Novo offers a lineup that includes IPAs, lagers, and sour beers. Among the best-loved offerings are the Eliot IPA and the Most Interesting Lager in the World. If you enjoy reds, definitely try the Hollywood Moon Landing.

The original brewpub located in the Eliot neighborhood serves a variety of food, including burgers, tacos, and fried chicken. The second location in the suburb of Beaverton offers pizza and sandwiches. The third location is in Corrales, New Mexico.

9. Breakside Brewery

Breakside Brewery might just serve some of Portland’s most popular IPAs. In a short period of time, owner Scott Lawrence and brewmaster Ben Edmunds have garnered over two dozen regional, national, and international awards. Their beers can be found in restaurants and stores in 11 states.

IPA lovers will definitely want to try either the Breakside IPA or Wanderlust IPA. Or try Rainbows & Unicorns, a beer that features the flavors of peach and pineapple. In addition to the six beers available year-round, there are at least three rotating brews offered each month.

Breakside offers three different brewpub locations: SE Taproom, NW Slabtown, and NE Dekum Pub, each named for its location. The taproom does not offer food, but it does allow customers to bring their own. The other locations offer classic pub food like burgers, wraps, and pretzels.

Tips For Enjoying Beer In Portland

Bartenders and serving staff in Portland are well versed in the beers on the menu, so don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations. Or better yet, ask for samples of two or three that interest you. And if you really want to explore the beers at a particular brewery, order the sampler.

If you’ve enjoyed a beer, ask if it’s available to go or at local retail outlets. Many breweries do sell their most popular selections in cans or bottles.

Try something new while visiting Portland. This is definitely the place to sample a hazy IPA, sour, porter, or stout. It would be a shame to order the same variety of beer you usually have at home. Again, ask the server for some advice, and you might just discover a new favorite.

For more on Portland, see this page.

Beautiful Heidelberg, Germany: Where To Stay, Eat, And Play

Heidelberg, Germany, is a city packed with beauty and history. It’s said to have inspired the German Romantic Movement, and it’s an inspirational place to visit today, too. The Old Town along the river is quite walkable with its lanes filled with shops and cafes.

Here are some highlights of Heidelberg you won’t want to miss.

The medieval ramparts on the Old Bridge. — Sharon Odegaard

What To Do In Heidelberg

Stroll Across The Old Bridge

The graceful arched bridge of Heidelberg, known as the Old Bridge, connects the banks of the Neckar River and is a well-known landmark of Heidelberg. I had been intrigued for some time by photos of the bridge, and it was one of the reasons I decided to visit the city.

The current bridge is the ninth to have been constructed on the site. Earlier versions made of wood burned, but this one, built in 1788 of sandstone, survived. The tall, white ramparts on the town side date to a medieval iteration of the bridge. They are visible from near and far.

The Old Bridge in Heidelberg, Germany. — Sharon Odegaard

As you stroll along the bridge, you’ll see a sculpture of the Roman goddess Minerva, along with sculptures representing important rivers. On the town side of the bridge beside the towers, a bronze sculpture of a monkey holding a mirror is a popular attraction. It’s said that if you touch its horns, you will return to Heidelberg — and if you touch the mirror, you’ll become rich. How can you pass that up?

Pro Tip: Go to the Old Bridge at sunrise. I walked from my hotel by myself and found only two others on the bridge, after fighting crowds of people the day before. Later in the day I went back, and the bridge was once again teeming with people. Go early, catch the light on the shimmering river, and enjoy the calm of this historic place. It’s unforgettable.

Heidelberg Castle in Old Town. — Sharon Odegaard

Explore Heidelberg Castle

Perched on a hill above the Old Town, Heidelberg Castle is beautiful in all lights. See it from a distance first, and then plan to visit. Sitting serenely above the town, this romantic ruin of a castle stands watch today as it has since the 13th century. It’s built of red sandstone, which gives its many buildings a unified look.

The castle has a dark history. The troubles date to the reign of Frederick V, who in 1619 seized the throne of Bohemia. Novelist Victor Hugo wrote of the castle’s “battles and never-ending tribulations” and its suffering under siege by the Austrians and others. Finally, in 1689, the towers and walls that had survived waves of destruction were blown up by the French. Much later, after much debate, the Germans agreed to preserve the castle as a ruin rather than restore it.

Set aside half a day to wander through the castle’s roofless rooms and its gardens. Tours are offered for a small fee. These will take you inside the Friedrich Building, which shows what the castle was like when life here was elegant.

The German Apothecary Museum inside the castle contains the fully preserved interiors of historic apothecaries of the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. Did you know that in the 16th century, pulverized mummy was used as a remedy for coughs, sore throats, broken hearts, shivers, and headaches?

A small cafe with an old brick oven sits in the courtyard. I enjoyed a tasty lunch at the end of our tour. And of course, there’s German beer! You can also pick up a coffee or a quick lunch at a food stand outside the castle entrance.

For more information about hours and tickets, visit the Heidelberg Castle website. You can also learn more about the displays and the history of the castle.

Views from the funicular in Heidelberg. — Sharon Odegaard

Catch A Ride On The Funicular

The Heidelberg funicular railway whisks you from the Kornmarkt of the Old Town up the hill to the castle. You can also stay on for a longer ride up the mountain for breathtaking views.

If you have time, go to the top of the forested hills on the day you plan to see the castle. I arrived right as the funicular opened and purchased a ticket for the castle entrance and a ride to the top. It was remarkably uncrowded.

As you leave the station, you’ll see the Neckar Valley spread out below, as well as the market square and the iconic bridge with its medieval ramparts. When you arrive at the castle level, you can either get off and go to the castle or change to a different railcar.

A funicular car in Heidelberg, Germany. — Sharon Odegaard

If you choose to go on, you will then ascend the hill on one of the oldest electric funicular railways. At the end of the line, about 2,000 feet above the town, a small viewing area allows you to look across the Lower Rhine as far as the Palatinate Wine Route. A tiny museum and a cafe are located at this station. You can hike from here, too, on trails in the hills.

For information about the funicular and options to ride, visit the website. Your ticket will allow you to ride up the hill either before or after your castle tour.

Pro Tip: You can walk from the town to the castle, but it’s quite an effort, and riding the funicular is more fun. I recommend riding up and then walking down from the castle after you’ve toured it. Downhill, it’s an easy 20-minute walk back to the Old Town.

The writer hiking the Philosphers' Walk in Heidelberg. — Sharon Odegaard

Hike Up The Philosophers’ Walk

The Philosophers’ Walk, a steep path winding up from the Neckar River, provides amazing views of the river, the Old Town on the other bank, and the castle on the opposite hillside. You’ll be huffing and puffing, but the views are worth the climb.

The name is said to come from the fact that Heidelberg University professors and philosophers once walked here as they discussed their ideas. The university, founded in 1388, is the oldest in Germany and one of the oldest in Europe. Scholars have walked this stone path for more than 600 years, and you can follow in their footsteps. The solitude of the forest and the amazing glimpses of the city are thought to have provided much food for thought.

Notice that the old stone walls and stairways are held together without mortar.

The Philosophers' Garden in Heidelberg. — Sharon Odegaard

Stop and catch your breath in the Philosophers’ Garden. This is a cleared area of lawn with flower beds and benches. Sit, relax, and enjoy the pleasant vistas below.

See The Students’ Prison At Heidelberg University

Heidelberg University students who committed minor violations between 1778 and 1914 ended up in this small detention building in the Augustinergasse area of the city. Bored and creative, the students decorated the walls and ceilings with colorful art. The prison is preserved and open to the public.

Students spent three days to a month in the jail for each infraction. Infractions included insulting authorities and participating in duels. This unusual museum showcases a little slice of university history, and you can tour it in less than half an hour.

The Kornmarkt in Heidelberg, Germany. — Iordanis / Shutterstock

Relax In The Kornmarkt

The Kornmarkt, a large, bustling square that was once the center of trade activity in the region, serves as a central place in the Old Town to relax and take in the sights. You can shop for chocolate at the Lindt store, grab a coffee and sit outside in the sunshine, or linger over a meal in one of the many sidewalk cafes.

From the Kornmarkt, you’ll enjoy a clear view of the castle on the hill. The square is defined on one side by Saint Peter’s Church and on another by a lovely building that once served as a palace. Taking center stage in the Kornmarkt is a sculpture of the Madonna, placed in the middle of the square in 1685 as a symbol of the Catholic faith. People from all over the world still appreciate its beauty.

Goldener Hecht in Heidelberg, Germany. — Sharon Odegaard

Where To Eat In Heidelberg

Heidelberg offers plenty of dining options. If you are lucky enough to be there when the weather is nice, join the crowds and eat outside at one of the many sidewalk restaurants. When I’m in Germany, I sometimes have to search a bit to find vegetarian options. Here are some of my favorite places; they all have dishes for those who want to pass on the typical sausage and veal entrees.

Goldener Hecht

Just steps from the medieval towers of the bridge, Goldener Hecht has occupied this coveted spot since 1717. Sure, it’s in a busy tourist area, but it’s a great place to enjoy a first lunch in the city and take in the culture. The German food includes wienerschnitzel with potato salad and goulash with spaetzle. I ordered the vegetarian mushroom entree, and it was delicious.

Backhaus

This cafe is on the castle grounds and makes a memorable place for lunch after a morning of touring the castle buildings. Backhaus, or Bakehouse, centers on an old baking chimney. Regional foods are served on the sun terrace in good weather. The prices are reasonable, which surprised me, since it’s near a top tourist site. Sit under the trees on a balmy day and enjoy pasta, salad, schnitzel, sausages, or potato soup. The cakes and ice cream are a great way to end your feast.

If you eat outside, ask to go in and see the historic chimney before you leave. It’s larger than you might imagine!

Trattoria Toscana

This Italian restaurant, located on a side street off the Kornmarkt, offers both indoor and sidewalk dining. It’s close to the river and is an ideal spot for people-watching. After sampling lots of heavy German food, I was ready for an Italian option. Trattoria Toscana came through with cuisine, wine, and location that were perfect for my last dinner in Heidelberg.

Where To Stay In Heidelberg

Hotel Am Rathaus

This hotel is around the corner from the Kornmarkt, so it is a great base for a visit to the Old Town. The rooms at Hotel am Rathaus are comfortable, and you can start your day with a small but nourishing breakfast buffet.

The front desk staff truly went above and beyond for me during my stay. I arrived in Heidelberg as a change in itinerary due to weather, and I hadn’t researched the town in my usual way. The young lady at the desk took out maps and advised us on itinerary options and routes, and we were good to go!

Whatever your interests, you are sure to find something fascinating to see and do — and eat! — in Heidelberg.

How To Spend A Day In Fascinating Carcassonne, France

We visited Carcassonne as part of a barge cruise down the Canal du Midi hosted by European Waterways. All opinions are our own and are based on our experiences.

Carcassonne is a fascinating fortified city in the Occitanie region of France that has been around since the Neolithic Period. Over time, the hilltop area was occupied by the Romans, the Visigoths, the Saracens, and the Franks. Carcassonne was of great strategic importance due to its location between trade routes connecting the Atlantic to the Mediterranean and the Massif Central to the Pyrenees.

Here’s how to spend a great day in Carcassonne.

The historic walls of Carcassonne. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

Historic Fortified City Of Carcassonne

Carcassonne boasts an old fortified city known as La Cite de Carcassonne, and it’s full of layers of history. It’s actually a castle as well as a double-walled city. On a visit, you can see the various methods of fortification — wooden ramparts, towers, barbicans, and more. The castle has a drawbridge, and you can see a section of the Roman wall, which is quite different from the medieval walls constructed later. One of the towers of the fortified area played a role in the 13th-century Inquisition.

La Cite was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, and if you’re there to watch the Bastille Day fireworks, you’ll definitely think you’re visiting a fairy-tale castle. You can wander through the winding cobblestone alleys and passageways past old stone buildings; there’s plenty of history to enjoy. There are also lots of shops, restaurants, hotels, and souvenir spots.

The town of Carcassonne, France. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

Lower Town

While visiting the fortified city is a must, the Lower Town along the banks of the River Aude is also worth experiencing. It was founded in the 13th century when rebels from the citadel were kicked out. It’s called the Bastide Saint Louis and is home to many cafes, bars, restaurants, shops, and places to spend time. It’s built in a rectangle around the central Place Carnot.

Enjoy a stroll along the boulevards, which are home to beautiful mansions from different centuries. The Lower Town is also the modern business center of Carcassonne.

Pont Vieux

There are a few bridges that cross the River Aude, but the Pont Vieux is arguably the prettiest and definitely the oldest. It was constructed during the 14th century; at the time, it was the only link between the Lower Town and the old fortified city. Reconstructed in the 19th century, Pont Vieux is one of the few medieval bridges still existing in France. It’s compact and boasts lovely features like graceful arches. Pont Vieux is a pedestrian-only bridge, so you can take your time admiring the scenery while you’re there.

The Lady Carcas Statue

A famous Carcassonne legend is the story of Lady Carcas, of whom there is a statue right in front of the drawbridge at La Cite.

When the Saracens occupied the city, the Frankish ruler Charlemagne wanted to conquer it. He mounted a siege against the Saracen king and his people, destroying their crops and depriving them of resources. The siege lasted several years, and the Saracen king died.

His widow, the resourceful Lady Carcas, strategized a bold defense. Although she and her people were on the brink of starvation, she took their last piglet and stuffed it with their last bale of wheat. They tossed the pig over the wall, where it exploded at Charlemagne’s feet. Upon seeing the grain-filled animal wasted without a thought, he assumed that the city was so well provisioned that his attempt to overtake it was futile, and so he left.

Canal Du Midi

Carcassonne has a bustling canal port from which you can take a half-day (or longer) boat trip. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Canal du Midi was developed in the 17th century to connect the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.

You can take an organized trip or rent a boat for yourself and your friends. A great way to spend an afternoon is to pick up some picnic goodies at one of the many Carcassonne markets, float down the canal and eat your picnic onboard, and perhaps make a stop at one of the lovely spots along the way. The canal passes by locks and bridges and near the Lower Town. This is a fun way to get another perspective of fascinating Carcassonne.

A meal from Le Jarden en Ville in Carcassonne. — Le Jardin en Ville

Best Restaurants In Carcassonne

Carcassonne has a great cuisine scene. There are plenty of options for whatever you are hungry for. Here are a few ideas.

La Table De Franck Putelat

Two Michelin-starred restaurants in the city are worth checking out. La Table de Franck Putelat shines with its two stars even in the busy Carcassonne dining scene. At home in contemporary decor near the ramparts of the citadel, this tribute to inventive cuisine will tingle your taste buds and awaken all your senses. Menus have themes like “Emotion” and “Action Reaction,” illustrating the chef’s continuing quest to provide the ultimate flavor experience.

La Barbacane

La Barbacane is one of the best fine-dining restaurants in Carcassonne. The Michelin-starred spot’s gorgeous stained glass windows, cathedral ceilings, carved woodwork, and rich furnishings let you know you’re in for a special occasion from the moment you arrive. Prepare to enjoy classic dishes and modern interpretations, all beautifully plated. Don’t forget to try a local aperitif to get things rolling.

Le Jardin En Ville

Seasonal farm-fresh ingredients take center stage at Le Jardin en Ville, where you can enjoy a delicious meal al fresco on the terrace. Freshly prepared dishes include duck, lamb chops, fish, and beef in addition to delightful cheeses and even Buddha bowls. You can order food to go or stop in the fun little boutique that sells interesting items to add to your home decor.

Le Saint Jean

For a meal in the heart of La Cite with stunning views, head to Le Saint Jean. Surrounded by the walls of the city, you can enjoy delicious fare such as classic French entrees, salads, and even tapas. Its house version of the local specialty cassoulet is considered exceptional.

Comte Roger

Popular with the locals, Comte Roger has something for every palate, including different prix fixe menus with loads of options. From soups and salads to parfait glace and plenty of meat, fish, and vegetable dishes in between, you’ll enjoy a wonderful meal and a great terrace, too.

Shops and restaurants in Carcassonne's Lower Town. — trabantos / Shutterstock

Best Shopping In Carcassonne

Carcassonne’s Lower Town offers some fun boutiques with gifts, souvenirs, and tasty purchases to take home. Many are located around the central square, the Place Carnot.

The weekly market is open on Saturdays and is fun to explore for local produce. You can hang out at one of the cafes in the area and watch local shoppers pick out their favorites.

Also, since Carcassonne is in the fantastic wine region of Languedoc, you are near two great wine-growing areas: Minervois a little north and Corbieres a little south. You can head to one of those if you have the time for a tour and tasting.

If you’re staying put, you can take the fun chocolate-and-wine-tasting tour by Cocoa & Grapes or shop and taste at a local wine shop or cooperative like Vins & Vinos or Le Comptoir de la Cite.

Hotel de la Cite in Carcassonne. — Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris

Where To Stay In Carcassonne

While many people consider Carcassonne a place for a day trip, if you have the time, you might just want to spend the night. One of the reasons is that the Hotel de la Cite is simply amazing. Its elegant decor, Michelin-starred restaurant (La Barbacane), and private gardens offering views of the city are just the beginning. Located on the site of a former bishop’s palace, the hotel offers history blended with modern comforts, including an exceptional spa, a heated pool, and rooms with both character and sophistication.

We’ve tried to give you an idea of how you could spend a day in Carcassonne. Locals would advise you to come early in the day to avoid the influx of tourists at lunchtime in the summer and to get a better feel for what the city is like. There is much to do in this historically important and vibrant city that offers a glimpse into both ancient and modern life.

For more things to see and do in France, visit this page.

From Slow Travel To Standstill: How This Multigenerational Family Is Making The Most Of Isolation In The Philippines

This year has brought about many surprises and has cast the future in shadow and uncertainty for many around the globe. Most people around the world are huddled up at home, only venturing out for necessary supplies or to head to work — for those deemed “essential”. What about those who don’t have a permanent place to call home and rather spend their days traveling from location to location?

What does a day in their life look like during a global pandemic? One such couple, Earth Vagabonds Ted “Tedly” and Ellen Kortan, found themselves seeking respite amongst strangers in the Philippines as the borders and businesses around them began to close.

The Kortans arrived in the Philippines back in November of 2019, with Ted’s mother, Diane, joining them soon thereafter for what was supposed to be a couple of months abroad with her son and daughter-in-law. They had enjoyed several stays on various islands in the Philippines, with no immediate plans to cut their time short even after the virus began to spread. However, on March 27, they were en route to a ferry to take them to their next destination on Boracay Island when the Philippines went into lockdown. While many hotels were not willing to take in foreigners during such an uncertain time, the three of them found a home away from home at Hangout Beach Resort.

Ted and Ellen Kortan are not your average retired couple and are no strangers to being abroad. They recently shared with me via email their thoughts on extending their stay in the Philippines and offered hope and encouragement to fellow travelers about what the future holds.

TA: Tell us a little bit about how you travel and why you decided this was how you wanted to see the world.

The Kortans: During our working years, we discovered how inexpensive vacations could be if we avoided all-inclusives and package “deals” and tourist traps. We figured we could live long-term that same way. So we retired early to travel as slow travelers — renting apartments and “living like locals.” We generally stay somewhere for one month at a time — but not always. It costs far less money if we treat this as a lifestyle instead of a vacation. Our budget is roughly $2,000 per month.

TA: What does a day in this new normal look like for your family?

The Kortans: While under home confinement during our quarantine [at Hangout Beach Resort], we did a lot of reading and played many games of Scrabble. Then, after 14 days, we were allowed to go to a garden up the road and to the beach. We still do a lot of reading and Scrabble, but we can move around more, exercise, go swimming and kayaking. Each family has a pass naming one person who can leave for food and supplies.

TA: What has been the hardest aspect of your current situation to adjust to? The easiest?

The Kortans: Honestly, this is easy. We have it pretty good — much better than so many people on the planet. But for creature comforts, Tedly misses beer — production/distribution has stopped; Diane misses hiking and church; Ellen misses ice cream and New York bagels. Of course, we do worry about loved ones back in the U.S. and stay in touch via video calls. We also have concerns regarding our rental property back home. Thankfully, our tenant paid April rent.

TA: What are you doing to stay healthy?

The Kortans: Our landlady has the garden in a nearby lot. It’s huge. We are active there. We also beach walk and swim and snorkel. Tedly does a bit of jogging and yoga.

The Kortans: Well, the gardening is one way. It’s actually more like a small organic farm. If we had just been traveling through, we wouldn’t have pitched in to help overturn land and remove tree limbs, et cetera. Also, we’ve gotten to know the owner and her dogs and the owner’s friends. A few of her friends are staying on the property during this crazy time. We really lucked out — these are wonderful, open-minded people.

The rest of the neighborhood still seems unsure about us. All the other tourists are long gone. They also speak very little English, wear masks, and practice social distancing. Hopefully, as restrictions relax in the coming weeks we can make some more friends.

Hangout Beach Resort in the Philippines. — Ted and Ellen Kortan / EarthVagabonds.com

The Kortans: For the long-term arrangements, it’s great that we now have a two-bedroom apartment [at Hangout Beach Resort]. Originally, mom was just visiting us as we traveled around the Philippines for a few months — each month on a different island. So during those times, mom was sleeping on couches or small second beds. We don’t know how long we will be on Panay Island, but our current place is a huge two-bedroom unit. As far as the biggest benefit: We love mom and enjoy our time with her. She’s safe here, and we like to see her enjoy this beautiful place, too. She is an experienced world traveler, and we never have to worry about her comfort or expectations. For example, if the power or water goes out for a little while, she can handle it.

TA: Diane, what creature comfort are you most missing from back home? Do you have someone looking after your home during the extension of your time in the Philippines?

Diane: Baking and knitting. I love to bake and I design quirky sweaters that are wearable art. I’m not knitting potholders. I live in a home my daughter owns in Cleveland, Ohio, so she’s looking after things just fine while I’m gone.

TA: Before this unforeseen stay at Hangout Beach Resort, what was the longest you had ever stayed in one location during your travels?

The Kortans: We stayed in Mahahual, Mexico, for four months one time. We stayed one month through Airbnb and loved it so much, we decided to rent another apartment for three additional months.

TA: Do you see yourself returning here in the future?

The Kortans: We never say never. But once we are able to travel again, we still have so many other places in the world to experience. We rarely go backwards — but see below.

TA: What are your plans once you get the all-clear to travel again? Where is the next place you plan to stay once you can move along?

The Kortans: Our tentative plan is to go to Penang, Malaysia, for a few months to visit some friends. We stayed there one month last year and loved it. Then, tentatively, we were looking at a visit back to the U.S. before starting a year-long adventure touring India. But that idea was before the pandemic. We think things are too uncertain to move forward with any definite travel plans at this point.

TA: As full-time travelers, how far in advance do you generally plan out your next stays?

The Kortans: Usually, we plan around three to six months in advance. We tend to rent monthly through Airbnb because we can get big discounts for the longer stays. Booking well in advance ensures we are able to secure the 30 consecutive nights we desire. As luck would have it, we only had a few months into 2020 booked. We knew things were getting serious with this virus, and thus our plans beyond April were left open.

The Kortans: We canceled two weeks on Boracay Island and one month in Romblon. That took us through April. Airbnb fully refunded both stays. We were traveling by bus to the ferry to Boracay on the day the lockdown went into effect. When we arrived, there was no way to access the island. At the Hangout Beach Resort, from our balcony, we can see Boracay Island, which is ironic. But honestly, we would rather be here, especially long-term with three people. It’s a larger, cheaper place with more amenities and fantastic hosts.

TA: Do you have any advice for people who might not want to travel again because of the current situation?

The Kortans: Wait it out more. Eventually, this virus will fade and Americans will get back to working and saving and vacationing. And no doubt there will be some really good deals to entice people to travel, too. It may take a long time — a year or two perhaps? But keep planning for the future. Now’s the perfect time to daydream and research. That said, if you are a serious, motivated traveler with means to go forward as soon as it is safe, we’ll see you out here!

Read more about travel in the Philippines and get inspired by other travelers’ ideas for making the most of time at home here. Our team previously interviewed the Kortans in late 2018 and learned more about travel habits, intriguing stories, and bucket list trips so make sure to read more about the Earth Vagabonds and get to know them even better.