Just past the scenic Cotswold villages and the world-famous spa town of Bath waits an edgier adventure in Britain’s West Country.
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The city of Bristol is a hub for counter-culture that comes with a distinctly welcoming undertone. It’s where Banksy made his name as a master of street art and social commentary—and he’s far from the only muralist in town. Gorgeous works of art span the city, from grand works that cover whole edifices to teeny-tiny designs hiding in plain sight.
Bristol’s past is just as speckled with unique innovations. It’s also the birthplace of Blackbeard, an English pirate who was renowned for his terrifying reputation—which he used often in lieu of actual attacks. He even lit candles in his bushy beard to impart the illusion of bloodthirstiness… despite never having killed an enemy aside from his final battle.
There’s a lot of wit at play in Bristol. And thanks to the city’s relatively tame tourist numbers, locals aren’t burnt out by passing crowds. In my experience, they were welcoming and proud of their city. In other words, it’s a great destination for more mainstream tourists who want to explore counter-culture experiences and tours in Bristol without jumping into the deep end.
Here are my tips and recommendations based on my recent trip to Bristol, including where to stay, eat, and what to do.
How to get to Bristol from London, plus where to stay & where to eat
You can reach Bristol from London via Paddington on the Great Western Railway (GWR). The journey takes between one hour and two hours on the fastest routes. You can purchase first-class tickets that give you access to a clubhouse with refreshments and snacks.
On the way to Bristol from London, you’ll stop at Bath. It’s a great spot to jump off if you want to spend a few days in town before heading off to Bristol. Bath and Bristol offer very distinct views of life along the River Avon in Britain’s West Country; the latter has more to offer in the way of contemporary culture, while the former is ideal for history buffs.
I stayed at Harbour Hotel in Bristol, a short taxi ride from the train station. It’s located inside two massive historic banks from the 1800s, with its own spa and two restaurants. If you enjoy zany and reimagined hotels, you’ll like the grand architecture and unique setup. I personally loved that my room was silent—almost like a vault—and its central location in Bristol’s Old City.
If you want to take a bite out of local culture (or a nice long sip), here’s where to go:
- The Clifton Sausage: This family-owned restaurant serves up Bristolian staples and specializes in (you guessed it) sausage. I’m not usually a sausage fan, but I ended up sampling four different types of links. It’s exactly the type of place that you want to sample classics like Toad in the Hole, Yorkshire Pudding, and Champ
- The Apple: During your time in Bristol, you’ll notice the harbor city has many canals and boats. Don’t miss The Apple, a boat-bar made from a converted 1930s Dutch barge. It’s home to a nearly endless list of ciders—Bristol’s chosen drink. There’s also an outdoor sitting area where you can enjoy endless cider, snacks, and soak up some urban peace. (If you want to book a cider tour, check out The Cider Box—it’s a local microdistillery that’s located in a neighborhood possibly known as The Dings.)
- COR: This is a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant that’s both austere and relaxed. It’s run by a husband-and-wife duo who have a calm passion for their work, which comes through in both the ambiance and every bite.
Best counter-culture experiences and tours in Bristol
Now onto the fun stuff—like how to dip a toe into the counter-cultural tastes of Bristol. These are some of the top tours and experiences that you can book online or take on by yourself.
Graft Graffiti Tour & Workshop
Even a five-minute walk around Bristol will have you turning your head from mural to mural. Street art is big—and Bristol is Europe’s undisputed capital of graffiti. If you want to dive into the history and identity of Bristol’s graffiti ‘underground’, book a tour with Graft. The group has a community center where you’ll learn the ropes of graffiti, both from a historic and cultural perspective and with a hands-on workshop.
You don’t need to know anything about graffiti, Banksy, or art, in general. In fact, I actively encourage any travelers who tend to ignore graffiti to join in. You’ll start to see hidden cues and messages in the murals around the city after a workshop with Graft.
Psychopomp Microdistillery
Have you ever seen a large still and wondered how it worked to create spirits like gin, vodka, and moonshine? I’ll do you one better. At Psychopomp Distillery, you learn the art of distillation with the goal of creating your very own gin. A savvy guide walks you through the process, then sets you up with your own copper mini-still, which you’ll use to craft your own gin.
You get to take it home with you, too—both London Gatwick and London Heathrow let you fly with up to two liters of liquid in your carry-on. (You read that correctly. Two. Full. Liters.) If gin making isn’t right for you, I recommend booking a gin tasting or just stopping in for the best G’n’T of your life.
Arnolfini
Image by Lisa Whiting for Arnolfini
Arnolfini is Bristol’s famous modern art museum, established back in the early 1960s. Aside from artistic exhibitions, the museum also has a theatre where you can catch performances from locals and traveling artists alike. If you prefer, you can also take a tour of the museum that gives you some guidance on what you’re observing. They also offer workshops and family-friendly events—so expect more than a sprawling, silent museum when you visit.
St. Nicholas Market
If you’re looking for one more counter-culture option in Bristol, here’s a lighter option. St. Nicholas Market is a popular shopping spot where you can peruse goods from the dozens and dozens of talented creators who call Bristol home. It’s the perfect spot to pick up a few souvenirs while also supporting local artisans and makers.
[Some experiences in this article were comped during a recent visit to Bristol. However, all opinions are my own.]