Sitting on the edge of the Thar Desert and fringed by the Aravalli Hills, the city of Jaipur is an architectural wonder and home to some of India’s most ornate royal buildings. Honeycombed palaces, towering forts, and elaborate structures designed hundreds of years ago still captivate visitors today.
Pretty In Pink
Jaipur is the biggest city and capital of Rajasthan, and the pink jewel in its crown. The city is one of India’s architectural marvels, but it’s not just the buildings’ size and splendor that make it a special destination, it’s the color scheme too. Buildings everywhere in Jaipur are painted romantic shades of dusty pink. But why?
In 1876, Queen Victoria’s son, Albert Edward Prince of Wales (who’d later become King Edward VII), visited India. At the time, pink was the symbolic color of hospitality, so the whole city was painted pink to welcome the royals. It’s said Prince Albert nicknamed Jaipur the ‘Pink City’ and the name stuck. In 1877, Maharaja Ram Singh took the pink obsession even further when his queen declared herself a fan of the color, passing a law that any new buildings in the city must be painted the same color. The law has remained and almost all buildings, from bazaars to temples, are painted shades from pastel pink to dusty rose, reddish brown, ochre, and terracotta.
To help you make the most of your time, here’s my suggestions for things to do on your Jaipur visit.
1. Jal Mahal
In the middle of Man Sagar Lake, the Jal Mahal, or Winter Palace, is an archaeological wonder. When the lake is full, four of its five stories are submerged underwater, while the top one seems to be floating on the lake’s surface. Constructed in 1745, the palace combines Rajput and Mughal architectural traditions. Entry to the palace is restricted, so you’ll have to content yourself with views from the lake’s edge. I’d recommend visiting towards sunset for views of both the palace and the picturesque Aravalli Mountains, whose hills are dotted with forts and old temples. The Jal Mahal is located on the outskirts of Jaipur enroute to the Amber Fort.
2. The Amber Fort
Amber Fort (also known as Amer Fort) is on the outskirts of Jaipur in the rugged Aravalli Hills just 8 miles from the city center. Built on a hilltop, the complex is spectacular. Construction began in 1592 and the fort has seen numerous modifications over time, with successive rulers adding their personal touches to it over the years. Intricate murals, frescoes, and paintings give an ageless beauty to the place. Don’t miss the dazzling Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors), where the walls and ceiling are covered in mirrors, mosaics, and ornate flower carvings. The king at the time had it built so his Maharani (“queen”) could “stargaze” whenever she desired. Maharanis weren’t permitted to sleep outdoors, so the light from a single candle reflected in the mirrors gave the illusion of thousands of stars.
Pro Tip: A 20-minute elephant ride uphill from the car park to the Amber Fort is a popular activity. Although, I personally found it underwhelming and, with hindsight, ethically questionable.
3. Nahargarh Fort
Nahargarh Fort is one of the three major forts that once formed a defensive ring around Jaipur, the others being Amber (see above) and Jaigarh (which we’ll cover next). Constructed in 1734, Nahargarh’s fortifying walls connected it to Jaigarh Fort with the best views over Jaipur. Originally named Sudarshangarh, its name was later changed to Nahargarh, meaning “Abode of Tigers.”
Nahargarh never actually came under attack and its famed guns were only ever fired to mark the passing of hours. This isn’t only a military building, there’s also a zenana (part of a Hindu or Muslim household reserved for women) for the royal women, which is one of the most beautiful buildings in the complex. A dozen identical suites with frescoed hallways connecting them, the zenana was constructed in such a way that the king could visit any of his queens without the others knowing!
Pro Tip: You can cycle or hike up to the fort, and you should aim to coincide your visit with sunset, when the city below is bathed in hues of orange and the pink buildings seem to glow like embers.
4. Jaigarh Fort
Jaigarh Fort is the third imposing fort overlooking the city. Stacking 1,300 feet above Amber Fort, Jaigarh was constructed in 1726 with its primary aim being to protect the lower fort. A hidden subterranean tunnel connects the two forts, and despite the distance between them, they are generally considered part of one fort complex (there’s no access to the tunnel nowadays).
Pro Tip: Jaigarh houses the world’s largest cannon on wheels, the “Jaivana Cannon,” mounted on roller-pin bearings on four wheels, helping it turn 360 degrees and fire in any direction. Jaigarh was never invaded and Jaivana was only used once to test its firing capabilities.
5. Hawa Mahal
The most famous and iconic landmark in Jaipur, Hawa Mahal was designed for the royal ladies to watch everyday life and festivals outside on the streets without being seen by the public. They viewed through a lattice of 953 small windows (jharokhas) adorned with elaborate latticework. The latticework also served to allow the breeze to pass through, working like a natural air-conditioner. This five-story, crown-shaped building, also known as the Palace of the Winds, was built in 1798.
6. City Palace
Right next to Hawa Mahal is the City Palace protected by enormous walls. Construction was completed in 1732 and the palace served as the seat of power for the Maharaja of Jaipur. To this day, parts of the City Palace are home to the royal family of Jaipur and are out of bounds. The palace has four entrances: Udai Pol, Jaleb Chowk, Tripolia Gate, and Virendra Pol. With its decorated courtyards, gardens, temples, and halls, the City Palace is a treasure to explore.
Pro Tip: The City Palace houses a museum that displays an array of royal costumes and weaponry.
7. Jantar Mantar
If astronomy interests you, Jantar Mantar — a UNESCO World Heritage site just a stone’s throw from City Palace and Hawa Mahal — should be on your list to visit in Jaipur. Jantar Mantar is one of five observatories constructed by Jai Singh II (the other remaining ones are in Ujjain, Delhi, and Varanasi). Among the many instruments here is the world’s biggest sundial, as well as various instruments made of stone and brass; 19 astronomical instruments in total.
8. Albert Hall Museum
Palaces and forts aren’t the only historical places to visit in Jaipur. The Albert Hall Museum is the oldest museum in Rajasthan and houses treasures that include paintings, crystal sculptures, jewelry, and even an Egyptian mummy. The museum is located amongst the sprawling Ram Niwas Gardens on the outskirts of the traditional market area of Jaipur.
Pro Tip: A composite ticket will cover your entrance fees for seven of Jaipur’s major monuments, including Jantar Mantar, Albert Hall, Hawa Mahal, Amber Fort, and Nahargarh Fort.
Rajasthani Cuisine
Thanks to its rich culinary tradition, Jaipur is a foodie’s delight. Dishes cover the entire spectrum, from very sweet to very spicy, and everything in between.
For great local cuisine at affordable prices, try Thali House. Khandelwal Dhaba Purana Wala has great vegetarian Rajasthani cuisine (try the Khandelwal Special Thali). Lassiwala, which opens at 7:30 a.m., serves delicious lassis (a yogurt-based beverage with a smoothie-like consistency). There are several “imitations” along Mirza Ismail Road, so look for the sign that says Shop 312 and reads “Since 1944.”
If you’re not on a budget, Cinnamon is one of the most sought-after restaurants in Jaipur. Located inside the Rambagh Palace Hotel is the Polo Bar, adorned with polo memorabilia from the kings and princes of Jaipur; martinis at the Polo Bar are particularly recommended.
