The Nile is a river steeped in history and it offers an endless fascination to visitors from around the world. Dubbed the longest river in the world, even if there is a current Amazon River expedition on the way to prove this statement wrong, the Encyclopedia Britannica gives the length of the Nile as 4,132 miles, as compared to 3,977 miles for the Amazon.
Long as it might be, most visitors know the Nile from Egypt’s capital city Cairo, or from a cruise on the Nile, usually undertaken between Luxor and Aswan in upper Egypt. But when I was in Uganda recently, I got a chance to visit the very beginnings of the river, which starts in Lake Victoria near the city of Jinja.
I took advantage of an organized day trip with pickup and drop-off from my hotel (either in Entebbe or in Kampala, with Entebbe adding an extra 45 minutes to the trip). It also allowed me to see some other highlights along the way. Here are some of the best experiences of the day that took me to the source of the Nile.
Rolex For Breakfast
After an early start with a 6 a.m. pickup, we stopped in the town of Mukono. It was a mere 42 miles from Entebbe on paper, but with the quite chaotic roads and traffic, it took around 2 hours of driving. Here is where I tried my first ever Rolex. It wasn’t a watch but a “rolled eggs” breakfast made from a simple omelet rolled in a chapati. It was so yummy and best eaten fresh from a roadside stall, all at the grand cost of 1,000 Ugandan shillings, or roughly 25 cents.
Spiritual Sezibwa Falls
The next stop — and a chance for a walk — was at the Sezibwa Falls. As the guide Gabriel told me, it is a spiritual site for the Baganda people, meaning “something endless” in the local language. A beautiful waterfall surrounded by forest, there are several traditional worship sites dedicated to spirits and gods, including a cave where offerings of plantains and eggs are left for a spirit in the shape of a cobra. A walk across the waterfall and through the forest — avoiding the cobras that really do live here — set me up again for the next stretch of driving.
Griffin Falls Forest Walk
About 45 minutes down the road, we headed off the beaten track into the Mabira Forest, one of Uganda’s largest rainforests. Picking up Hakim, our guide through the forest, I opted to walk through the jungle, learning more about the local flora and fauna rather than visiting another waterfall. Along the way, the local leopard might have eluded me (also, strangely enough, a black and white cat came and said hello). But there was still plenty to look out for — from a 10,000-strong caravan of safari ants to hornbills overhead that sounded a little like ducks.
Lunch By The Nile
We arrived by the side of the Nile around midday, right in time for lunch. A basic restaurant built over the riverside was a perfect stop to breathe fresh air and feast on the locally caught tilapia fish that was fresh that morning. Black and white kingfishers flew busily past while gigantic storks and slender herons — locally called snakebirds because of their elegant necks — provided the entertainment during lunch.
Boat Ride To The True Source
Then it was time to get down to the reason I undertook this trip: A boat ride to the source of the Nile. The wooden, motorized canoe provided a fun way to dart through the overhanging vegetation by the side of the Nile, where I spotted plenty of monitor lizards, countless birds, and even a black mamba snake. We then stopped where the water is particularly bubbly, forming a border to the smooth waters of Lake Victoria. It was in 1858 that explorer John Hanning Speke “discovered” — or more likely “declared” — this to be the true source of the Nile. This feat eluded David Livingstone whose expedition ended in tragedy.
Today, a man-made island with a sign that states this is indeed Point Zero for the Nile sits in the wide expanse of water, unlike the tiny little springs that are the origin of most great rivers. The Nile means business from the word “go,” taking some 70 percent of its water from Lake Victoria and 30 percent from underground springs — which explains the bubbles. And, before you ask, this is the origin of the White Nile, the largest tributary to the Nile after it merges near Khartoum with the often dried-up Blue Nile. Everybody calls this “The” Nile.
Cruising into Lake Victoria, I spotted a family of otters playing by the edge of the lake. There were around a dozen or so of them, some of which even swam closer to the canoe to have a look at me. Sadly, the green water and brown little faces didn’t make for great pictures.
A Quick Look At Jinja City
After a thoroughly enjoyable spree on the waters of Lake Victoria and the Nile, I wanted a quick look at Jinja, the bustling city on the river’s banks. Despite claims that Jinja was once the capital of Uganda, which I could not find any validation for, it is certain that the city is considered the capital of the Kingdom of Busoga — one of several kingdoms within the country. The market is fascinating, providing a one-stop destination for all your needs, from beautiful vegetables and fruits to clothes with tailors adjusting them for you and even car parts, DIY materials, and toys. In town, many early 1900s Indian residences make for a lovely addition to the often higgledy-piggledy constructions. There is plenty of evidence that Jinja is indeed the adventure capital of Uganda, with bungy-jumping, wild-water rafting, and more on offer.
Verdict Of The Tour
It is a long day out — shorter if you are based in Kampala instead of Entebbe — but it is worth it. Overall, it was a 12-hour day, but with many very interesting stops along the way, it is pretty special. Would I do it again? Yes, for sure. I loved each stop and was thrilled to pieces to have seen Point Zero of the Nile, after having encountered it previously in Egypt only. The guides were lovely, the food excellent, and the overall experience fulfilling, giving me so many varied impressions of Uganda. And then, there were the otters; icing on the cake.
