There is more than just one Patagonia and I am not talking about the aptly named clothing brand. In the southernmost part of South America lies Patagonia. However, two countries proudly lay claim to it. After nearly going to war a handful of times over this strip of land where the Andes seemingly plunge into the ocean, Chile and Argentina now share this natural wonderland.
Upon finishing my teaching in Chile, I embarked on an epic trip south, zigzagging my way along the Carretera Austral, or Southern Highway, and beyond. My ultimate destination was Ushuia, Argentina, from where I would board an icebreaker ship to take me to Antarctica. However, along the way, the unique landscape of southern Chilean Patagonia captured my heart. Here I’ll share my top four experiences in this adventurer’s paradise.
1. Penguin Sanctuary
You might think, on my way to Antarctica, I wouldn’t need to see more penguins, but one can never see enough penguins as far as I’m concerned. About 22 miles northeast of Punta Arenas, Chile, Monumento Natural Isla Magdalena is a 2-hour public ferry ride away. Another option would be a tour on a speed boat to shave off an hour of the trip. However, the ride was as much a part of the adventure as the actual island. Keep your eyes open for other sea life and enjoy the beautiful scenery of islands and glaciers all around you.
Be sure to visit between the months of September and March when these endemic Magellanic penguins breed. During the other half of the year, no tours are offered because you won’t see the cuties. Once on the island, you’ll be surrounded by over 120,000 penguins. There is a set path that you will follow as you observe them in their natural habitat. Keep in mind that these are wild animals and you cannot touch or interact with them.
The island is uninhabited by humans and there are no accommodations. You will likely return on the ferry after about 1–2 hours of exploring. Be sure to dress for the weather. It can get quite cold and windy in the south. Make sure you have plenty of room on your camera for all the fun pictures you will take of these goofy little guys.
2. Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine
Named for the shape of the route you will hike among the unique towers at Parque Nacional Torres (“towers”) Del Paine, the W hike is the more difficult, yet shorter of the two hikes to see the main features of this park. These include: Base Torres Viewpoint, British Viewpoint, French Valley, and Grey Glacier and Lake.
The other hike is called the Circuit and will require a full week, while the W requires about 4–5 days. Both are well marked trails and there are maintained (yet not usually serviced) campgrounds and refugios (“rustic dwellings”) at strategic locations along the way.
If you are the adventurous sort, you can do these hikes on your own. Of course, this will mean that you need all your gear with you — pack, tent, sleeping bag, food, etc. Or, you could take one of the many tours available. These usually offer gear and food. There are also options to rent your gear in the nearby town of Puerto Natales.
If 4 days to a full week of strenuous backpacking is not your thing (wasn’t mine either), you can still enjoy the wonder that is Torres Del Paine. While not exactly the type of park you go to relax in nature (it’s very popular and heavily visited), you can still spend a full day taking it all in.
Surrounded by glacial lakes, small streams, guanacos (a small, deerlike creature native to South America), and nandus (a bird similar to an emu native to South America), there is plenty to see and explore against the backdrop of the towers. There are several other shorter trails to travel for all the postcard-worthy photos of the towers.
3. Puerto Natales
If you’re visiting Torres Del Paine, chances are you are doing so from the town of Puerto Natales, Chile. Often overlooked or skipped on the way south, Puerto Natales is a charming town with lots of character. It’s true that it is the main location from which to book tours, rent gear, and catch buses to Torres, but it has its own magical appeal.
Whether it’s a stop on your way south or a chance to recuperate after hiking the W, Puerto Natales is a welcome haven. Enjoy the easy, laid-back feel of this town while sipping on the handful of craft brews that locals swear are better because of the glacier water from which it is made (I don’t disagree). Be sure to try a Cerveza Austral made from a local berry called the calafate. Legend has it that if you taste one of these berries, you are sure to return. I’m sure the same is true for tasting this berry beer.
Other ways to enjoy this friendly town include checking out some of the local fare. Especially popular here is Patagonia lamb. This lamb is roasted over coals for about 4 hours and is to die for. There’s also a free walking tour that meets in the plaza and is a great way to explore and learn about the history of the town and surrounding areas.
Most of what you’ll do in Puerto Natales is relaxed and recouped. There’s a lovely river walk and beautiful sunsets. There’s plenty of souvenir shops and streets to stroll, all while in the picturesque Andes Mountains.
Pro Tip: Puerto Natales is either the starting point or ending point for the Navimag Ferry. This is a unique way to travel from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales. Driving or bussing along the Carretera Austral can be difficult and long. Instead, you can do this stretch on a 4-day, 3-night ferry through the fjords of Patigonia. The passage includes all meals, room, and activities on board. I enjoyed this trip back to Puerto Montt and was awestruck by the beautiful scenery of fjords and glaciers along the way (you won’t see them from the road).
4. Balmaceda And Serrano Glaciers
Conveniently, this is another tour that leaves from Puerto Natales. A big part of exploring southern Patagonia is getting to view all the glaciers that exist there. On this tour, you will get up close and personal with two of the most famous glaciers in Patagonia.
Tours last anywhere from 4–7 hours and navigate toward the glaciers and Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Along the way, you’ll admire the beautiful scenery of fjords, glaciers, a handful of cormorant colonies, and sea lions. The tour will stop at the park where you will have an hour or so to explore the base of the glaciers on foot along the many trails.
Back on the boat, the crew will be waiting for you with glasses of whiskey. The best part is that cooling these glasses of whiskey is real glacial ice. This was a true highlight for me. However, if you’re lucky enough to watch a glacier calve, this will be your highlight. You will be shocked by the sound it emits and the splash it makes.
There are seemingly endless adventures to have in Chilean southern Patagonia. Much of what you choose to do depends on how much time you have to explore this ninth region of Chile. Few people ever make it this far south, so congratulations on your journey!
